POR 15 question?

[jcal87]

I just ordered the floor pan kit. I'am wondering how effective this stuff is? I have some pin hole rust spots on the driver and passenger toe board that i want to paint over with this stuff. Also is there any prep work that needs to be done such as grinding or sanding?

[speedjohnston]

If you use it on bare 'clean' metal you need to use the marine clean and metal ready (I think its a zinc coating or something) and it will stick fine. If it is used on bare metal without the proper prep it will not stick well at all. On rust you just need to remove the scaly loose stuff. Also, if you use the flatter black, its inconsistant and you may end up with shiny and duller spots. I painted my entire cage with it after cleaning and prepping and it stuck great. After masking the whole cage off I had one tiny piece flake off. I must have missed a spot. Someone else painted over some paint around my back window and half of all the paint in that area peeled offf on the tape.
I would take the time to read the directions and you will be fine. If your not sure call them. I did. :cheers:

[speedjohnston]

Also don't do it if its too humid. It actually dries faster with humidity and won't level out as well.

[elitecustombody]

I'd stay away from using that junk, use Rust Bullet

[jcal87]

I'd stay away from using that junk, use Rust Bullet

I looked into that but I think you have to have a sprayer and i don't have a compressor.

Well on the web site and the floor pan kit comes with like 3 different coatings I think the marine stuff is included.

[IndyNova]

I've used it on my nova, works great and is rock hard. I tried chipping at it with a screwdriver, and it scratched it, but did not chip off, good stuff imo.

[wellis77]

I looked into that but I think you have to have a sprayer and i don't have a compressor.

I used Rust Bullet in some areas behind the quarters and brushed it on. Doesn't have to be sprayed. Went on great. If I recall they say 2-3 coats gets the proper thickness. I like Rust Bullet better myself.

[elitecustombody]

I looked into that but I think you have to have a sprayer and i don't have a compressor.

Well on the web site and the floor pan kit comes with like 3 different coatings I think the marine stuff is included.

you can brush it on,but that would not be my choice for application of any material on any car I'm working on

[BBC69Camaro]

I'd stay away from using that junk, use Rust Bullet

Ya its just junk when applied via a 10c foam brush :lol:

Por-15 + Chevy Orange engine block kit:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine001z.jpg

Por-15 + Chassis black on brand new trans case:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/Transmission016sm.jpg

Por-15 + Chassis black on brand new rear axle housing:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/th_RearSuspension017.jpg (http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/RearSuspension017.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/th_RearSuspension018.jpg (http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/RearSuspension018.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/th_RearSuspension021.jpg (http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/RearSuspension021.jpg)

Por-15 + Chassis black on heater box:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/th_FrontSuspension015e.jpg (http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/FrontSuspension015e.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/th_FrontSuspension015f.jpg (http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/FrontSuspension015f.jpg)

And again Por-15 + Chassis black:
Before:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/FrontSuspension004.jpg

After:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/FrontSuspension020.jpg

Its only junk if you don't do the prep right. And yes the prep is killer but like all things you get out of it what you put into it. I can hammer, and wipe down with Lacquer thinner any of those surfaces, try that with anything else short of powder coat.

I am planning on doing my floors too and I'll use the same 10c foam brushes from OSH to do so with Por-15 + Chassis black.

As far as the prep goes, get as much as possible off down to bare metal if you can. Get the metal as clean as you can, use Marine Clean then Metal ready, then apply Por-15. I can't stress "as clean as possible" enough. Repeat cleaning steps at least 2-3 times to make sure you have a clean surface. Even the slightest oil and Por-15 won't stick / bond.

[GregWeld]

If POR-15 is junk -- I sure wish someone would come get that junk off my concrete floor 'cause I can't!! :rofl:

[speedjohnston]

Here is the cageI did with por 15

before

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w136/speedjohnston/Camaro/DSC00025.jpg

And after

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w136/speedjohnston/Camaro/DSC01269.jpg

I did all the steps, and yes it took a long time. :lol:

I did not care for it so much on larger flat surfaces. I had a hard time getting it as smooth as I would have liked without spraying. I only used it on large flat areas where it wouldn't be seen or would be covered. It did self level very nicely on the bars. Maybe with some more practice the flat areas would have looked better.

[69x22]

I would wear a filtered face mask, also you get that stuff on you it will be there for a while. It is good stuff though.

[1969x11]

If POR-15 is junk -- I sure wish someone would come get that junk off my concrete floor 'cause I can't!! :rofl:

I got a good laugh out of this!! I cant get this junk off my floor either.

[camsdad]

I got a good laugh out of this!! I cant get this junk off my floor either.

Me Too! Eight years into my project and still stuck to the floor too! :willy:

[BonzoHansen]

I just ordered the floor pan kit. I'am wondering how effective this stuff is? I have some pin hole rust spots on the driver and passenger toe board that i want to paint over with this stuff. Also is there any prep work that needs to be done such as grinding or sanding?

is that the kit with the mesh & putty? I'm curious too see how that works out.

POR15 does not like new smooth surfaces, so for floor pans and such make sure you etch clean metal real well with their etcher.


that stuff gets harder as it cures. I did my LCAs with it, I scratched one of them a week after I did them. months later they are far more scratch resistant.

[64impala]

KBS Rust Seal!!!! Its a 3 step process...aqua blast, rust blast, then rust seal...And for undercoating the BEST product is Monstaliner! Look up these product because they worked wonders on my 64 impala restoration. My 2 cents

[snappytravis]

Just curious what the feedback is on these two products. They seem very similar. I also looked at the eastwood ceramic chassis paint

I plan to paint the chassis a semi gloss black and then us a bedliner kit for the floor pans on the bottom of the car. I see on this post a guy uses Monstaliner with a roller.

Thanks Travis

[GregWeld]

I've used POR15 on many things - rear end housing - suspension A arms - Chassis.... The key to this (as with any coating) is cleaning and etching for a good grip - the paint is only as good as it's surface adhesion.

POR15 --- you can hit this stuff with a hammer and dent the metal without chipping it! LOL -- Get it on your cement floor or yourself - you'll find out how tough it is. Open the can -- use it -- try to reseal and get that can open again - NOT! Buy small cans -- use them - toss 'em. Ditto anything used to apply the stuff short of your spray gun - that would have to be cleaned.


#1 NOTE --- this stuff takes a LONG time to dry -- thus -- if you'd like your parts to look perfect - you'd better be in a dust free environment. It will have dust in it. This is not show quality paint -- it's made to paint over rust (thus the name P O R).

#2 NOTE --- Don't try to use a sponge type brush.


#3 NOTE --- Don't try to brush the stuff out... it will FLOW out plenty smooth. Remember that long drying duration? That's what has the paint flowing out flat.

[snappytravis]

Thanks GW,, That is basically what I am wanting to use it on, chassis and differential housing. It is clean bare steel. Just want something durable and easy to touch up.

[GregWeld]

Good uses for it -- where it's dark and mostly out of sight - unless you're name is Mario (Doom) and you're trying to build a Ridler car.

I use the prep spray they sell --- Marine Prep I think it's called -- nasty stuff - spray on rinse off... then paint when it's all dry.

[Che70velle]

Por15 recommends that you top coat the product with something, because UV's, I believe, will break the coating down. I used it on my floors, in my window jambs, down inside lower cowl corners, top of cowl, and my trunk pan. Took about two quarts. The stuff doesn't adhere well to slick metal. It wants a rusty, or at least sandblasted finish to adhere well to. As said above, cleanliness is key, but who paints over a non-clean surface anyway? I brushed every bit of mine on. No sprayer for me. I also have some on my shop floor, and it's there to stay.