Need advice on smooth fire wall, brakes, and other misc.

[protouring66]

So i guess i am kinda new here, been a shadow stalker for awhile and I love the site but haven't had much to offer so i didn't post much. I need help with some custom work i am about to undertake on my car and i posted for info on team chevelle too. But here it goes:

So feel free to laugh or whatever, but I am going to be tearing into my 66 chevelle over this winter, finally got my 63 belair into the ranks of nice daily driver. time to start on my dream ride, lol. Anyway many of you may remember an amazing 67 chevelle that was at sema last year and it had a shaved fire wall that was stunning, completely smooth with a rolled edge, 90 degree reversed brake master and clutch under the dash and everything looked perfect. i want something similar.

I know it wont be the same and i don't want to copy anyone. I am not afraid to do the work, and have a few resources for metal fab that will save me a lot of time, money, and get me some nice 1 off pieces. But my lack of experience is kicking here, I have done wire tucks, and other nice touches to my other cars but a shaved fire wall is something i have never tackled. my question is this basically because on my belair the previous owner smashed a dent into the firewall to fit an HEI distributor in with the 327 in place of the original 6 cyl. It looked bad so i cut it out, made a "cup" to put back in its place, welded it in and looks better, like it belongs there, but i don't want that on my chevelle. Will there be clearance issues if the fire wall is shaved? Super Chevy did an article on an overlay style panel that makes it look easy but what about clearance?

If I shave the fire wall and want to get it right the first time without cutting out and moving a half dozen times, should it be moved back say 2 inches? Would that allow more clearance? Is it necessary to acheive what I am looking for? Also i am going to be putting in a 572 fuel injected bbc, so what kind of clearance is needed for it? I couldn't find much info about this so I wanted to ask. I also wanted know if anyone has used the Kugel 90degree reversed brake and clutch system? Whats your input? And what about the heater core? where does everyone put the lines for it? Looks like i could put them farther right and down lower into the fender well or even into the area where the firewall starts to bend back to the floor with some custom lines and heater core.

I am building this to be driven, so my girl and I can take it anywhere, heat and ac are a must on this car. Its going to be an on going project so I know it won't be done over the winter. But fab work and metal are where I am starting.

Also while its down and apart my frame is getting redone from front to back, cross braced, notched and I am mini tubbing the car to clear wider tires, much of the floor is going to be modified, is it possible to do a flat/smooth floor in the car instead of buying floor pans and chopping them up or am i missing something as to why all the contours to the floor? (and i mean besides the trans tunnel and seat mounts) i mean i have to change some stuff to put in the new GTO seats front and rear anyway.

sorry for the long winded post but just some stuff i have been needed answers to for a while, thanks guys

[protouring66]

Here is a link to the chevelle I am talking about, i love this thing, the guys who built it are to be commended.

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=23127&highlight=kugel

[camcojb]

sorry for the long winded post but just some stuff i have been needed answers to for a while, thanks guys
yeah, it would take some time to answer all the questions............ :lol: I'll grab one while I'm here. The reason you don't see a flat floor is there's no strength in it. The ribs, rolls, and contours add a bunch of rigidity. If you've ever picked up a flat sheet of sheetmetal it bends all over the place.

The firewall on my 64 was shaved with a flat panel over much of the areas, not all though. No clearance issues with even a 1.5" engine setback.

Jody

[DocJr]

Ok, so hopefully I don't sound too stupid... but I just checked out that thread....how would you check or fill the reservoir? The builder mentioned a few components located within the cowl....but the cowl and "under the dash" isn't the same location, unless there's yet another access panel located within the cowl, seems like a hassle to me.

[GregWeld]

I put my response in RED via the quote. Not trying to be a smart azz or be a downer - but if you've looked at the builds on here -- you have to know how much work these are - and NOBODY builds 'em once. These kinds of mods are mocked up - taken apart - moved - more mock up - test fit etc about half a zillion times before they're final welded or final machined etc. There is no way for anyone to answer the questions you're asking. You're going to have to mock stuff up. And each time you move one thing = something else will end up getting moved or modded. That is just the way it is going to go.


So i guess i am kinda new here, been a shadow stalker for awhile and I love the site but haven't had much to offer so i didn't post much. I need help with some custom work i am about to undertake on my car and i posted for info on team chevelle too. But here it goes:

So feel free to laugh or whatever, but I am going to be tearing into my 66 chevelle over this winter, finally got my 63 belair into the ranks of nice daily driver. time to start on my dream ride, lol. Anyway many of you may remember an amazing 67 chevelle that was at sema last year and it had a shaved fire wall that was stunning, completely smooth with a rolled edge, 90 degree reversed brake master and clutch under the dash and everything looked perfect. i want something similar.

I know it wont be the same and i don't want to copy anyone. I am not afraid to do the work, and have a few resources for metal fab that will save me a lot of time, money, and get me some nice 1 off pieces. But my lack of experience is kicking here, I have done wire tucks, and other nice touches to my other cars but a shaved fire wall is something i have never tackled. my question is this basically because on my belair the previous owner smashed a dent into the firewall to fit an HEI distributor in with the 327 in place of the original 6 cyl. It looked bad so i cut it out, made a "cup" to put back in its place, welded it in and looks better, like it belongs there, but i don't want that on my chevelle. Will there be clearance issues if the fire wall is shaved? Super Chevy did an article on an overlay style panel that makes it look easy but what about clearance? I used an overlay panel when I built a 55 Post car - but I filled all the holes first - and took off any brackets etc. Then TIG welded the overlay on with a full perimeter weld (doing about an inch at a time and skipping around and cooling) and some plug welds. The overlay is 18 gauge so isn't thick enough to cause you any interference issues. 18 gauges is .049" thick.

If I shave the fire wall and want to get it right the first time without cutting out and moving a half dozen times, should it be moved back say 2 inches? Only one way to do this right -- set the motor in the chassis for mock up - otherwise NOBODY could tell you for certain what you might possibly run into. Would that allow more clearance? Is it necessary to acheive what I am looking for? Also i am going to be putting in a 572 fuel injected bbc, so what kind of clearance is needed for it? Per earlier statement - you're going to have to have all your pieces and mock it up. I couldn't find much info about this so I wanted to ask. I also wanted know if anyone has used the Kugel 90degree reversed brake and clutch system? Whats your input? I have this system in my '32 Ford - they work great - but every move of one piece puts another piece in jeopordy - and you're going to have to move a bunch of stuff and do a bunch of mods and you're only going to know all of this and what interferes by mocking up the build. And what about the heater core? where does everyone put the lines for it? Most people are using aftermarket Vintage Air or similar... and there's a zillion places which a guy can run his lines depending on how much effort you're willing to take on and what you want the final product to look like. Looks like i could put them farther right and down lower into the fender well or even into the area where the firewall starts to bend back to the floor with some custom lines and heater core.

I am building this to be driven, so my girl and I can take it anywhere, heat and ac are a must on this car. Its going to be an on going project so I know it won't be done over the winter. But fab work and metal are where I am starting.

Also while its down and apart my frame is getting redone from front to back, cross braced, notched and I am mini tubbing the car to clear wider tires, much of the floor is going to be modified, is it possible to do a flat/smooth floor in the car instead of buying floor pans and chopping them up or am i missing something as to why all the contours to the floor? (and i mean besides the trans tunnel and seat mounts) i mean i have to change some stuff to put in the new GTO seats front and rear anyway. Like Jody said -- the actual floor needs "bends" in order to have strength - if you want to have a flat floor - then weld pieces in on top of the real floor and make it flat if that's what you want.

sorry for the long winded post but just some stuff i have been needed answers to for a while, thanks guys

[GoolsbyCustoms]

Ok, so hopefully I don't sound too stupid... but I just checked out that thread....how would you check or fill the reservoir? The builder mentioned a few components located within the cowl....but the cowl and "under the dash" isn't the same location, unless there's yet another access panel located within the cowl, seems like a hassle to me.

Doc, the clutch and brake resivoirs are flush mounted under the cowl panel wich removes with five Allen heads and is a little bit of a hassle but not that bad ..but three aluminum cans on that firewall just wouldn't look right on that firewall but we all make our own sacrifices for looks versus performance versus ease of use

J

[GoolsbyCustoms]

Protouring66, thanks for the kind words on the chevelle it's always great to hear , as far as yours goes Greg was right in that it reguires multiple mockups and trial and error but I would be happy to answer as many questions as I can as both builds are same body dimensions and same motor size so if you want you can give me a call if you want to discuss it further

Thanks, Josh

Goolsby Customs
205-428-2169

[DocJr]

So you're not using the reservoir that's on the booster? It just looks like it can't be accessed.

Cool setup by the way, it's very eye pleasing.

[GoolsbyCustoms]

So you're not using the reservoir that's on the booster? It just looks like it can't be accessed.

Cool setup by the way, it's very eye pleasing.

No I'm sorry I should have been more explanatory the m/c carver is drilled and tapped for lines that run up to a remote fill ....and I'm glad we pleased your eye.....

[DocJr]

Ahh thanks for the clarification man.:thumbsup:

[protouring66]

wow and thank you for all the info, I do understand that alot of mock up and fab is going to be necessary but essentally I just wanted to know how much major body panel movement is necessary. And after asking I felt a bit stupid about the floor pan question. and I guess I haven't checked into vintage air that much, didn't realize they did heating as well. and again no offense was taken, appreciate all info and input anyone has on this. :thumbsup: wanting to get all ducks in a row so to speak before attacking the car. funding is holding me back from purchasing the 572 yet. but i have access to a 454 in my shop for mock up, will it essentially get me the right deminsions for this? I know size is mostly in displacement but (dumb question time) a 572 isn't much physically bigger than a 454 is it? BBC is BBC right?

[protouring66]

Protouring66, thanks for the kind words on the chevelle it's always great to hear , as far as yours goes Greg was right in that it reguires multiple mockups and trial and error but I would be happy to answer as many questions as I can as both builds are same body dimensions and same motor size so if you want you can give me a call if you want to discuss it further

Thanks, Josh

Goolsby Customs
205-428-2169

Thank you for the advice and you will most deffinately be getting a call from me. And again I can't offer enough praise for the amazing job on that 67. I have stared holes in my screen looking at that car. It is perfection. :yes: 1 more quick question tho, the fender well/inner fenders what did you do there? It looks finished right, an understated feature but looks great, i have no inners currently my car came with none as I saved it from someone turning it into a dirt track car. I want a look that is close to that clean under the hood. this is my favorite http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/attachment.php4?attachmentid=20222&d=1255459874

[protouring66]

good to know i did find this doing some research today, good to have it confirmed

[speedjohnston]

Something I overlooked also when I ordered some custom brackets. Keep it in mind again that the head sitting higher could effect a bracket that connects to another point on the motor. Mine was based off the water pump and the support bolt to the cylinder head ended up too low. :cheers: