Anyone have Auto Rad ? [Archive]

cdushane

07-23-2010, 06:00 AM

Chris........ Is there any other color......:D I had no idea you could get it in colors..

Frank is like Burger King, "you can have it your way" :lol: Here's a few pics, I also found a black anodized cap that will be going on with the new motor. And yes, "black" is the only color IMO :unibrow:

http://i931.photobucket.com/albums/ad152/cydushane/72.jpg

http://i931.photobucket.com/albums/ad152/cydushane/70.jpg

jy211

07-23-2010, 06:09 AM

Damn I wish I knew they came in black! :soapbox:

DOOM

07-23-2010, 06:20 AM

Frank is like Burger King, "you can have it your way" :lol: Here's a few pics, I also found a black anodized cap that will be going on with the new motor. And yes, "black" is the only color IMO :unibrow:

http://i931.photobucket.com/albums/ad152/cydushane/72.jpg

http://i931.photobucket.com/albums/ad152/cydushane/70.jpg

That works for me Chris!!!!!:wow:

ProdigyCustoms

07-23-2010, 06:33 AM

Damn I wish I knew they came in black! :soapbox:

I can handle that for you. We do them here. just ship it to me.

ProdigyCustoms

07-23-2010, 06:35 AM

I can get this through you Frank????

Yeah, I am anodizing the one for Unfair today. First full support we have done. Should be nuckin futs!

jy211

07-23-2010, 06:39 AM

I can handle that for you. We do them here. just ship it to me.

The whole rolling chassis will be up there when your ready for it :D

Steve1968LS2

07-23-2010, 06:53 AM

1. you can no longer get black

2. make sure you install the hood latch right. It goes INSIDED the core support not on the front (there's a slot on the bottom)

3. we needed to make a shim between the core support and the bracket that goes to the frame mount. This was to get it to the right heigth. Now they provide you with the shims, so this is no big deal.

4. Overall the fit and finish was excellent. If you do an LS application (two on the right) make sure to ask them to put the radiator cap on the left.

5. Very happy with the product and the customer service.

http://i49.tinypic.com/1o69oi.jpg

http://i50.tinypic.com/10rk5ro.jpg

Here you can see how NOT to do it. The hood latch is on the front, but should be "sandwiched" inside the core support. We corrected this for the story.
http://i47.tinypic.com/k4jhv6.jpg

With their closeout system:

http://i49.tinypic.com/29w4i0m.jpg

Vegas69

07-23-2010, 07:02 AM

Just wanted to point out that the radiator Cdushane has pictured is not an Autrorad. It's a Prodigy radiator package. Since I'm good at it, I'll play devils advocate. It's hard enough to keep an aluminum radiator looking decent let alone a black anodized. A leak or a burp is going to lead to cooked on antifreeze. I certainly understand and like the look, I always look at the end result as well.

ironworks

07-23-2010, 07:10 AM

Why not just powder coat it the same black you would do for the inner fenders? This way that all match. I don't under stand the anodizing of a core support. And good point on the ability for it to stay nice in the long run.

ProdigyCustoms

07-23-2010, 07:22 AM

Steve1968LS2

07-23-2010, 07:36 AM

We powder coat and paint them. Anodize aluminum has that look that looks like nothing else.

We are not having any staining issues, anodize is like a vampire, it tough as nails to anything except sunlight!

Actually any heat is hard on anodizing since it opens the pores in the metal and that compromises the dye. Thats why when you look at older project cars the fittings are all baby blue and pink. lol

AutoRad quit offering black annodizing because they couldn't get a consistent result on the welds and the panels.

I agree that power paint would make more sense.

Musclerodz

07-23-2010, 08:30 AM

Actually any heat is hard on anodizing since it opens the pores in the metal and that compromises the dye. Thats why when you look at older project cars the fittings are all baby blue and pink. lol

AutoRad quit offering black annodizing because they couldn't get a consistent result on the welds and the panels.

I agree that power paint would make more sense.that is because blue and red are soft annodize. You can get black in hard annodize and will be much more durable. The only issue i have with annodize, is it will discolor around welds.

We sell lots of the PRC units and they work great, but when it came to needing a core support for project "N-XSS", I picked Autorad, Steve's pics say it all. Now you got me wondering Steve about our neck placement, guess I need to pull it out of the box and check it out.

Roadster Shop

07-23-2010, 08:40 AM

We run Auto Rad radiators in every car that we build. Top notch stuff! The fit and finish level is second to none. We used to use other radiators, but would spend more time trying to make them look good and hide nasty welds. Auto Rad's stuff looks incredible in bare aluminum. :thumbsup:

ProdigyCustoms

07-23-2010, 08:45 AM

The Hard Coat anodize quality depends a little on what the welding filler was used. It also depends on who is doing the anodize. That is why we ship the radiator 1000 miles to us to anodize them.

Heat is not a big problem, we have been selling anodize front drives for years. Lots of hard coat parts are sold like Earls fittings, they do not change color. Remember the radiator is only at 200 degrees which is not real hot. Sunlight (UV) is death to any anodize.

Powder coat is not a option if you want the fins black, will absolutely ruin the cooling efficiency. You would have to paint the fins with a special paint for radiator fins, tape them off anf powder caot the rest. Might as well paint it at that point.

Here is Chris Radiator. The welds are SLIGHTLY different color. a LITTLE browner then the rest of it. But gives it that anodize look.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u212/ProdigyCustoms/PARTS/BlackAnodizeRad.jpg

Steve1968LS2

07-23-2010, 01:51 PM

Musclerodz

07-23-2010, 02:55 PM

The black looks really good.. and like you said the hard annodizing should hold up pretty good.

AutoRad just quit doing it since they could get consistent quality in the looks department around the welds and they are pretty picky.

My car idled for nearly two hours and the water temp never went over 200.. Stuff works real good.

Same reason we are changing our reservoirs to full cnc tank for production before we release them. I did not like the discoloration around the welds

71RS/SS396

07-23-2010, 05:35 PM

Steve1968LS2

07-23-2010, 07:33 PM

I have a couple of AutoRad units and the things are like a work of art! I like the fact that they bend the tubing in nice radius' and there are no exposed welded angle joints. I'm sure Franks performs well, I think it's a matter of looks if that's important to you. Imho the AutoRad is the best looking one on the market.

Well to me the huge benefit of the Autorad is the core support and the fact that the radiator can be so much larger (and is centered, but that's just being picky)

David Pozzi

07-24-2010, 10:04 PM

Steve, they put your radiator cap on the wrong side.

killer67

07-24-2010, 10:42 PM

Best radiator - worth every penny. Family run business and great people to deal with.

Steve1968LS2

07-25-2010, 07:57 AM

Steve, they put your radiator cap on the wrong side.

Yea, we had a talk about that.. lol

When I got mine they hadn't done a lot of LS apps where both inlent/outlet are on the right. I explained that in this instance the cap should move to the left side and I do believe that's how they come now. If not just ask when ordering.

Mine is now on the left side as God intended. :)

DFRESH

07-25-2010, 08:03 AM

I like ours, fits perfect. I just had one done for Unfair. Dual 16" fans! Makes the car propeller driven.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u212/ProdigyCustoms/PARTS/67-69-CamaroCore.jpg

Frank, are the dimensions for your setup the same as the Auto Rad? (The core support area is opened up as wide as the Auto Rad setup?)

Price for the whole thing including the AC piece?

Doug

JamesJ

07-25-2010, 09:43 AM

Well to me the huge benefit of the Autorad is the core support and the fact that the radiator can be so much larger (and is centered, but that's just being picky)

Thats the only real benefit compared to other high quality aluminum radiators. Not trying to start anything but I have to say they all will perform pretty close.

Steve1968LS2

07-25-2010, 11:06 AM

Thats the only real benefit compared to other high quality aluminum radiators. Not trying to start anything but I have to say they all will perform pretty close.

And the fact that the AutoRad core support is "flat" and gives another few inches of clearance between the front of the engine and the radiator. This means that it's easier to run an air intake.

All GOOD radiators will get the job done.. but that can be said of many things.

ironworks

07-25-2010, 02:27 PM

I have PRC unit in my Chassiworks Camaro project. It is nice and fits just fine. But the difference between the PRC unit and the Autorad unit are miles apart. The Autorad unit is Bend square tubing where the PRC unit is miter cut joins. If I had a customer using a stock subframe car and he wanted the nicest core support without having to build a mega dollar custom unit the Autorad unit is way nicer for the practically the same price.

I'm a dealer for both products and I make the same margin on both units and I have never been given a any products from either of these vendors. So my opinion is not slanted toward free product or the product I push. In a market of Bolt on crap that does not just flat out sucks, it is nice to see something that I bought for a customers car that I think lives up to the quality I try to put into our fab work.

Vegas69

07-25-2010, 04:15 PM

Thats the only real benefit compared to other high quality aluminum radiators. Not trying to start anything but I have to say they all will perform pretty close.

Not so fast, the extra width allows larger fans. These cars weren't engineered for 600-700hp worth of cooling capacity. I drove my car yesterday with a PRC radiator and dual 12" Spal fans. It was 110, maybe a hair more. It actually does great as long as you stay moving. I was purposely driving it around town stop light to stop light to get it warm for a carb heat soak issue that caused me starting issues on Friday. It hit 210 after about 20-30 minutes of run time. My car actually runs fantastic at that temp. Not concerning but once I get the AC on it won't be to favorable unless I stay moving. I'd hate to see it above 220. This is with 13qts of oil and a aluminum block and heads. On the flip side, I chose my radiator support for my breather tanks, power steering resorvoir, AC accumulator. With a wider radiator, that wouldn't of been possible.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa251/Payback1969/EnginePhotoShoot029.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa251/Payback1969/EnginePhotoShoot019.jpg

ProdigyCustoms

07-25-2010, 04:58 PM

Frank, are the dimensions for your setup the same as the Auto Rad? (The core support area is opened up as wide as the Auto Rad setup?)

Price for the whole thing including the AC piece?

Doug

$1850 for complete support, 32" core, Dual 16" fans, Frame oversize condenser, and overflow.

The dual 16s make a ton of wind, 4700 CFM or so.

ProdigyCustoms

07-25-2010, 05:11 PM

Not so fast, the extra width allows larger fans. These cars weren't engineered for 600-700hp worth of cooling capacity. I drove my car yesterday with a PRC radiator and dual 12" Spal fans. It was 110, maybe a hair more. It actually does great as long as you stay moving. I was purposely driving it around town stop light to stop light to get it warm for a carb heat soak issue that caused me starting issues on Friday. It hit 210 after about 20-30 minutes of run time. My car actually runs fantastic at that temp. Not concerning but once I get the AC on it won't be to favorable unless I stay moving. I'd hate to see it above 220. This is with 13qts of oil and a aluminum block and heads. On the flip side, I chose my radiator support for my breather tanks, power steering resorvoir, AC accumulator. With a wider radiator, that wouldn't of been possible.

We normally do dual 13s on that radiator, but with your built in engine oil cooler your limited to dual 12s. The difference in total CFM from 2850 to 3490 is substantial especially at idle. 20% more fan will make a big difference in idle cooling. 4700 CFM out of dual 16" fans on a full core support is a huge difference.

With a wider core, mounting everything might get tricky for you. You would most likely have to front mount a overflow or one of your other canisters.

slownova

07-25-2010, 08:39 PM

do they make these for first gen firebirds? also do you acctually gain any space from the motor to the radiator? some pics it looks like it.

JamesJ

07-25-2010, 09:27 PM

And the fact that the AutoRad core support is "flat" and gives another few inches of clearance between the front of the engine and the radiator. This means that it's easier to run an air intake.

All GOOD radiators will get the job done.. but that can be said of many things.

Thats what I am saying, the core support is what gives you the ability to do other things that will make a difference.

Steve1968LS2

07-25-2010, 10:04 PM

do they make these for first gen firebirds? also do you acctually gain any space from the motor to the radiator? some pics it looks like it.

I gained quite a bit of space on my AutoRad deal.. 2-3 inches it seems like.

Call and ask on the Firebird deal.. I don't know how much the core support differs.

GregWeld

07-25-2010, 10:31 PM

AUTO RAD is the finest piece of art in my Nomad... and the front sheet metal has never fit better since I switched to using their core support.

Did GoodGuys show this weekend -- and heard person after person saying "wow! Look at that radiator"! --- Not kidding here either.

When I ordered it - I gave Jim (the owner) dimensions that had to be met - and they were spot on...

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/gregweld/Nomad%20radiator/IMG_1898.jpg

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/gregweld/Nomad%20radiator/IMG_1907.jpg

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/gregweld/Nomad%20radiator/IMG_1905.jpg

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/gregweld/Nomad%20radiator/IMG_1906.jpg

awr68

07-25-2010, 10:52 PM

Increadable car Greg! Glad I was able to see it this weekend! :thumbsup:

Vegas69

07-26-2010, 06:44 AM

That is trick Greg, nice work. :thumbsup:

GregWeld

07-26-2010, 06:56 AM

Thanks Tony! Great BBQ this weekend! I owe ya now buddy...

Well -- I owe Jennifer... :>)

Todd -- Thank you! As you can tell from the pixs they were taken while still not finished (the hood missing was a key clue? or maybe the rad hoses missing?) but I was trying to show the RADIATOR rather than my work/car.

I will share a caution on these radiator questions.... and I should include photos but don't have any up in photobucket. My last radiator / core support (FROM PRC) (expensive polished version) the buttheads WELDED the radiator to the core support (all aluminum)!! What MORON would WELD the radiator to the core support - making the radiator UNSERVICEABLE!

Remember too -- that there are various GAUGES of aluminum -- they might all be polished or whatever - but thin polished ain't the same as heavy gauge polished -- and the AUTO RAD is built UNBELIEVABLY WELL! PERIOD. And I'm not easily impressed.

GregWeld

07-29-2010, 07:57 AM

We normally do dual 13s on that radiator, but with your built in engine oil cooler your limited to dual 12s. The difference in total CFM from 2850 to 3490 is substantial especially at idle. 20% more fan will make a big difference in idle cooling. 4700 CFM out of dual 16" fans on a full core support is a huge difference.

With a wider core, mounting everything might get tricky for you. You would most likely have to front mount a overflow or one of your other canisters.

Frank/Todd....

You need to RAISE the voltage produced to the fans... most will handle 16v and they will spin faster with more voltage. A boost step up regulator or a DC to DC converter on just the fan circuit. Your issue would be to find the voltage increase WITH the amperage required. You need 12v to 16v dc to dc with at least 30 amps output.

Be careful because some converters can't handle the load so you need to talk to someone that knows what you're trying to do and can supply the right converter.

Here's a quick "look" at what I'm referring to. I didn't do any research to find "THE ONE" that you would need (depending on the load - you may need one for each fan) -- this is just a beginning reference:

http://www.powerstream.com/dc2.htm

Vegas69

07-29-2010, 08:19 AM

I agree, I have a one wire alternator and it doesn't need to charge that often so the voltage hangs around 12.8-13 volts most of the time. Not ideal for headlights or fans. I took it out last night and it stayed at 175-180 until I got to crusising around the 25mph streets and then it was only 195-205 when I parked it. With a 666hp big block in over 100 degrees heat, I'm happy with it. It's healthier for the engine anyway. It's about the only time I can get any oil temp in this thing on the street. Still had oil temps of 180 or so. When it's cool out I play hell getting any heat in this thing even with a 180 stat.

DOOM

07-29-2010, 08:28 AM

Man Greg...... You know alot of zhit!!!!:D

GregWeld

07-29-2010, 11:23 AM

Man Greg...... You know alot of zhit!!!!:D

DUUUUDE! (as a buddy likes to say - LOL)... 40 years of doin' zhit.... somethin's got to stick even for a D.B. like me! :rofl:

Vegas69

07-29-2010, 01:29 PM

If this guy named Greg is so damn smart then why didn't he call it an amplifier? :unibrow:

dhutton

07-29-2010, 02:31 PM

If this guy named Greg is so damn smart then why didn't he call it an amplifier? :unibrow:

Because it isn't an amplifier :unibrow: An amplifer would multiply the 12 volts by a fixed value. If the 12 volts varies then so does the output. The regulator puts out 16 volts regardless of the input voltage (within it's stated input voltage range).

Don

GregWeld

07-29-2010, 03:02 PM

Because it isn't an amplifier :unibrow: An amplifer would multiply the 12 volts by a fixed value. If the 12 volts varies then so does the output. The regulator puts out 16 volts regardless of the input voltage (within it's stated input voltage range).

Don

Thanks Don...

I wasn't even going to bother with a reply. Some guys are better off if they just remain as they are... carburetors... old school big blocks.. you know what I'm talking about. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Todd -- all kidding aside -- you could get a nice big one and stick it in the trunk and it would be like a battery -- some ballast for you.

Vegas69

07-29-2010, 03:06 PM

**** you guys. :unibrow:

GregWeld

07-29-2010, 03:41 PM

And......... just to get the thread back on track....... here's my completed AUTO RAD WORK OF ART (not my work = they're work!). I haven't made the SS overflow line yet... that's tomorrow.

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/gregweld/Nomad%20radiator/DSC_7842.jpg

I'm running the SPAL PWM fan controller - and with the two 16" fans - the temp doesn't move. I like the fan controller because it's neat and tidy and the #1 fan only comes on at half speed (QUIET!) and then slowly ramps up as needed. When it hits full speed and can't control the temp - then #2 kicks in. BOTH kick in if you crank the A/C... and turn the A/C off and they continue to run for 30 seconds... cooling things down big time. I like it! :woot: