Project Frankenbird - 1968 Pontiac Firebird [Archive]

bdahlg68

05-09-2010, 07:14 PM

Here is my project car. It's a 1968 Pontiac Firebird 350 car. No engine came with it, which is OK with me. It has a 3-speed toploader transmission, which is not going back in it. Here are my plans:

Lots-o-metalwork - new floor pan, fenders, inner fenders, fender extensions, valence, outer rear wheelhouses, mini tubs, and at least one rear quarter. Worst case, also the roof, trunk pan, and other rear quarter. Still debating to put a 69 T/A hood on it. We'll see.

New floor pan is the first thing I want to get done. After that, I'm tempted to have the car acid dipped and epoxy primed. There is a company right nearby that does this, albeit a bit pricy at $2600. This will tell me exactly what else I need to replace. I figure this will allow me to make a full judgment on what metal needs replacing.

After that, I'm hoping for an Art Morrison front clip and DSE Quadralink rear for chassis.

As for drivetrain, somewhere between an LS3 and LS9 (depending on funds left at that point), attached to a T56 Magnum 6-speed. Rear end is TBD, but I plan to mount black-chrome ZR1 wheels on the end of it!

The interior is still unplanned, but I plan to keep the dash with only the 2 5" gages set in an Anvil carbon fiber dash. 4 more gages set in the console.

Still a lot of details to be ironed out, but I expect this to take 2-3 years as a minimum as I want to do as much work on my own as I can.

First priority is to get 230V to my garage, buy a welder, and get a bigger compressor.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/S-dYT2o9OPI/AAAAAAAAWug/-u6CAJkv0aA/s800/IMG_5544.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/S-dYUiz3HUI/AAAAAAAAWuk/cpsAqJ4RB7g/s800/IMG_5545.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/S-dYVm5CltI/AAAAAAAAWuo/qiHN1V9MqEU/s800/IMG_5546.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/S-dYWoWhIWI/AAAAAAAAWus/ecrT8keIgj8/s800/IMG_5547.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/S-dYXFvA4EI/AAAAAAAAWuw/98rYOYpCQgY/s800/IMG_5548.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/S-dYsklz_II/AAAAAAAAWvA/I9vnJ3DgZAs/s800/IMG_5549.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/S-dYtD8etOI/AAAAAAAAWvE/e2gBXuHycuI/s800/IMG_5550.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/S-dYt3H2uJI/AAAAAAAAWvI/fnulrQ4vDtk/s800/IMG_5555.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/S-dYuiUPbAI/AAAAAAAAWvM/2WLd9V3dh2g/s800/IMG_5556.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/S-dYvpd35xI/AAAAAAAAWvQ/aNxaoltYyC0/s800/IMG_5557.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/S-dZG6399pI/AAAAAAAAWvs/wQydlwaM_hw/s800/IMG_5558.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/S-dZHlwdnwI/AAAAAAAAWvw/aEwfB_fAWBI/s800/IMG_5559.JPG

bdahlg68

05-09-2010, 07:26 PM

By the way, lots of parts for sale!

Seats (driver, passenger, and rear)
Hood
Front Subframe with everything you see attached in the latest pictures
Rear End
Transmission (3-speed top loader)
Dash and gages

.... just ask.

67rstbkt

05-09-2010, 07:27 PM

Pure awesomness...:thumbsup:

ProdigyCustoms

05-09-2010, 09:34 PM

Looks like a good start.

Tuske427

05-09-2010, 10:19 PM

Awesome! Your project and mine have a lot in common. Almost too much, ha ha I look forward to seeing your progress

T_Raven

05-09-2010, 11:29 PM

Sweet another firebird for me to watch. I'll be interested to see what you decide about dipping the car. I've read a lot of mixed feelings about it.

bdahlg68

05-25-2010, 06:23 PM

I've nearly finished taking the car apart. Everything is off the firewall, front subframe is off, and interior is taken apart. I need to take out the passenger rear glass, take off the doors, and pull a few more interior bits out. Then, it's just the rear end and glass.

I'm still debating next steps. Obviously it needs a floor pan. It also needs inner and outer wheel wells and some portion of quarter panels, amongst other repairs or replacements. Even so, I'm leaning towards doing a chemical dip and e-coat dip before starting in on the metal.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/S_xnPsLYhfI/AAAAAAAAW6M/YaPGQI3i4B8/s800/IMG_5603.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/S_xnQLVGPVI/AAAAAAAAW6Q/Br5o8qsfo7Q/s800/IMG_5604.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/S_xnQqN35ZI/AAAAAAAAW6U/-PX0CAq8M18/s800/IMG_5605.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/S_xnRWQ0KuI/AAAAAAAAW6Y/4B2MeXKuUuo/s800/IMG_5606.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/S_xnR647fPI/AAAAAAAAW6c/R3BKKBltNt0/s800/IMG_5607.JPG

Ron in SoCal

05-25-2010, 11:30 PM

I looked into that chemical dip, eCoat place in Michigan. yep - 2500 for the bare body. I believe - and I could be wrong - they said do all the metal work before bringing them the car. Just a thought...

67rstbkt

05-26-2010, 08:16 AM

I'm not so sure it's worth paying for the chemical dip. Have you read this project thread:
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=26338&page=3

Tuske427

05-26-2010, 11:56 PM

I'm not so sure it's worth paying for the chemical dip. Have you read this project thread:
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=26338&page=3

Hopefully him not being in California will allow him access to shops with stronger chemicals.

bdahlg68

09-19-2010, 05:06 PM

Long time and no updates. Work got crazy and is just starting to normalize. Anyway, car is fully disassembled. Quarters are partially removed. MIG welder is here. Car is just temporarily braced. Full bracing should be in place in the next week or 2. Since I'm new to bodywork, I'm struggling with a game plan. While the quarters are off, I'm going to do the mini tubs. After that, I'm kind of stumped. Should I replace the quarter before removing the floorpan? Should I buy the trunk lid first and use for quarter fitment? There are a few dents with creases in the roof. Should I replace that while I'm at it? What about shaving the window gutters? I guess that's the fun part about the first time.

Anyway, based on the recent Art Morrison video, I'm thinking about going full AME chassis (triangulated 4- bar rear). I was always planning on their front clip, so not too much of a change. I love the new Dakota Digital VHX Analog gauges. Those will be going into the Anvil dash. Remaining dash will be wrapped in CF vinyl and black leather. Transmission is still up in the air. Since I work for ZF, I'm going to see if I can get a 2nd gen 6HP or maybe even an 8HP in their. The 6HP in my previous car shifted so fast I think it would better fit my intentions as a uber high performance driver. We'll see. T56 is not a bad fall back plan. Good news is I don't think I'll need a new trunk floor pan. Bad news is I probably need a new cowl.

As for final color - I'm between two. Since I'm planning to do CF hood and trunklid, I would love for some to show through. I think pearl white with Scuderia style stripes would look awesome. Otherwise, I'll probably go midnight metallic blue like I did on my last 'Bird. Always loved the color. That's a long way off, so I'm likely to change my mind several times before I actually get it painted.

My goals are as follows:
1.) Metalwork done over winter (except AME rear fab work).
2.) Chem dip with e-coat done late winter / early spring.
3.) Buy AME chassis (at least rear but hopefully front as well) late spring
4.) Finish bodywork / paint next winter
5.) Purchase engine / transmission (next spring)
6.) Finished (fall 2012)

Given that I have about 30-40k miles of flying planned by end of year, we'll see what happens.

Any input / feedback / thoughts would be appreciated.

bdahlg68

10-24-2010, 07:49 PM

So I'm plugging along as I get time. Most panel removal is complete. The problem is that the more I pull off, the more I want to replace. Ugh. Drip rails weren't that concerning, but now I think I'm going to replace the trunk pan. It's solid, but pitted way more than I expected. I went at it with a rust remover pad on my grinder, made a big mess, but not much progress on the rust. The main problem is that I want to do a AME rear suspension and am starting to worry about getting the panels lined back up. Especially as I keep pulling off panels! Anyone have any experience with this? Any input would be much appreciated.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/TMTfqEmZnWI/AAAAAAAAXAQ/jByDpya7Obo/s800/2010-10-24%20001.jpg

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/TMTfxu2wKHI/AAAAAAAAXAY/jUWyxwjtFqY/s800/2010-10-24%20002.jpg

Tuske427

10-24-2010, 11:15 PM

bdahlg68

12-04-2010, 06:44 PM

elitecustombody

12-04-2010, 10:17 PM

Looks like you got your hands full, whatever you do, don't give up.Try to weld braces to keep the rest of it in shape. Post more pics of the progress.If you need a good deal on AMD sheetmetal,let me know, I'll hook you up.:cheers:

bdahlg68

12-11-2010, 10:47 AM

Got the roof and quarters from Classic Industries thanks to the 20% off coupon. Roof appears to fit good just loosely placed. Likely not going to get far until the new year. It's off to Germany tonight for the 8th time this year. Ugh. Got some naval jelly to start rust removal but now it's too cold too rinse off. May go back to the acid dip route so I can start hanging sheet metal. We shall see.

Happy holidays to all.

Jim Nilsen

12-12-2010, 08:49 AM

As I'm doing my car, I'm trying to fix one area at a time. This way, the rest of the car is still there to support and align things.

Because most of yours is apart, I recomment a lot of cleckos and sheet metal screws to temporarily put it back together before you weld everything up. The current and last month's issue of Car Craft covers a shop rebodying a 68 mustang coupe into a fast back. Many of the technical "how to" may be of help for you.

I hope this is helpful

Keep the pics coming!

I held mine together with screws so I could adjust if i needed. I used a laser level for ceilings to make sure my panels were all in the same plane as my rockers and then measured side to side and square then welded it up slowly with a bunch of tacks to start and then when it all fit just right I did the final welding. The laser showed me where to raise or lower the rear of the panels to keep them from sagging dowm wich they wanted to do naturally it seemed. The shape of the rear quarter even looked better when it was lifted in the rear to make the body line all the same.

I never used any bracing inside and the measurements never changed, I didn't use a rotisserie which definately requires bracing. When all of the gaps and lines look right it doesn't matter if the car shifted the way I see it, the car could have been off from the factory and cause you problems trying to line things up that will never be right till you shift the car.

I would replace that trunk pan if it was me, but if not you better get something on it like POR or something to stop it forever.

:cheers:

bdahlg68

12-18-2010, 01:04 PM

Last business trip of the year is done! A new record for me though. 129k miles on Delta. Hopefully next year isn't quite so hectic.

Anyway, on to the car. I got the drip rails and roof test fitted. Just sheet metal screws for now as I wasn't sure how to position the drip rails. The drip rails seem to be in pretty much the right spot (driver side may need to slide forward just a touch). The passenger side roof corner at the A-pillar doesn't seem to fit too well. Maybe some trimming is in order? I can squeeze it down flush but it is TIGHT. Also, the roof to drip rail support on the driver side is a bit off it seems. I'm hoping that sliding it forward helps that and putting in a few more sheet metal screws to really hold everything in place.

I also threw one of my G8 summer wheels under there for some inspiration. Looks good!

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/TQ0QuP7OpKI/AAAAAAAAXCg/Wpp2l2hYP7U/s800/2010-10-24%20006.jpg

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/TQ0QuE49XcI/AAAAAAAAXCo/j17fdDCDLOQ/s800/2010-10-24%20005.jpg

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/TQ0Qt9psOtI/AAAAAAAAXCY/jdreEUz4tbM/s800/2010-10-24%20010.jpg

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/TQ0QucLMP_I/AAAAAAAAXCk/gnOguoaFqos/s800/2010-10-24%20013.jpg

bdahlg68

12-30-2010, 04:35 PM

Adjusted the drip rails a bit and I'm pretty happy with the roof fitment. Also, first VERY ROUGH placement of drivers quarter. Still cleaning up around rear panel and filler panel before it will fit correctly and hopefully relatively easily.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/TR0TmFoN0DI/AAAAAAAAXE0/MhSRVSbkK5g/s800/IMG_5883.JPG

I also ordered nearly everything else I need to put the back half of the car back together. After it's all installed, I'll probably pick up the rear suspension and install that before moving on to the floorpan / front end.

bdahlg68

01-11-2011, 05:52 PM

Got a nice delivery from Classic Industries today. Inner Cowl, DSE Firewall Fill plate, outer wheelhouses, tail panel and brace, rear valence, full trunk panel and side panels. Nearly everything I need to have a complete shell from the firewall back. I feel like a Firebird parts warehouse!

Still need floorpan, Anvil trunklid, and dash panel to finish the shell. That will be ordered after the Speedtech rear suspension I'm planning to order late February timeframe. Trying to get as many parts around me as possible so that I'm never waiting on them. Now it just needs to warm up in my garage!

68FBODY

01-11-2011, 06:11 PM

Looking good! Firebirds are popping up on here more often now

Ron Fox

01-11-2011, 06:35 PM

Nice Project! :thumbsup:

Keep up the good work.

bdahlg68

01-11-2011, 06:38 PM

Yup. This is my second 1st gen 'Bird. I thought I posted my original one, but I guess not, so here it is. I miss what a solid car that was. Didn't have to deal with all this damn rust!

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/TS0F2WREFNI/AAAAAAAAXFs/9P3P44NLPKA/s800/brian1.jpg

bdahlg68

01-19-2011, 07:21 PM

Just picked up an Anvil CF spoiler! :thumbsup:
Looking forward to it getting here. I hope this is the first of many CF parts. I would like to have CF trunk, hood, front spoiler, and inner fenders, but we will see. The hood is the big question mark as I'm not sure Anvil plans to make it anymore. We'll see.

Metalworking is going slow because it's too damn cold in the garage. Just accumulating parts it seems. Next up is rear suspension. Speedtech complete with 9". Should order in late Feb / early March. Hopefully by that time it's warm enough to pick up the pace in the garage.

Stay tuned.

bdahlg68

01-26-2011, 06:23 PM

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/TUDF7ms9_jI/AAAAAAAAXH4/HKZCEC7h3bw/s800/IMG00010-20110126-1936.jpg

Diet Spoiler. :thumbsup:

bonecrrusher

01-31-2011, 12:30 PM

Nice.... Like the G8 GT too!

65_LS1_T56

02-01-2011, 03:50 AM

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/TUDF7ms9_jI/AAAAAAAAXH4/HKZCEC7h3bw/s800/IMG00010-20110126-1936.jpg

Diet Spoiler. :thumbsup:

Nice piece Brian! You are not gonna cover that up with paint are you?
I might be coming for a NTC visit here in Feb, hope we can meet in person.

Cool project.

bdahlg68

02-01-2011, 02:59 PM

Nice piece Brian! You are not gonna cover that up with paint are you?
I might be coming for a NTC visit here in Feb, hope we can meet in person.

Cool project.

Hey Aaron, I may or may not be here. Work travel is picking up again. If not, I'll be up in Lapeer every other week or so anyway.

Hope you're ready for the snow!

bdahlg68

02-01-2011, 03:01 PM

cencalc6

02-01-2011, 06:08 PM

Great progress :thumbsup:

65_LS1_T56

02-02-2011, 04:58 AM

So I think I found a solution to get my car blasted and primed. I found a company that will pick up, blast, prime, and drop off my car for around $1200-1300. Not bad. Half the price of chemical strip and e-coat.

Anyone recommend a primer to use after blasting? They proposed Kem Kromic as a mid-grade primer. This is just really for the inner structure as I really just want something tough and that will seal well.

Brian, who did you find to do the blasting? I've been looking too. I talked to Ron at www.alternativemediablasting.com. He seemed knowledgable about automotive body blasting. Prices as around the $1k without priming. Think he is in Brighton area. You can shoot me a pm if you'd like.
Gonna make it to Autoramma? I'm planning on it.

speedfreak

02-02-2011, 06:51 AM

Nice project !

bdahlg68

02-02-2011, 07:22 AM

Brian, who did you find to do the blasting? I've been looking too. I talked to Ron at www.alternativemediablasting.com. He seemed knowledgable about automotive body blasting. Prices as around the $1k without priming. Think he is in Brighton area. You can shoot me a pm if you'd like.
Gonna make it to Autoramma? I'm planning on it.

Hoping to go to Autorama with a guy from work. I think I saw on here that some people were going to meet up before hand and have dinner in Greektown. May do that. We should meet up.

I found Michigan Sand Blasting (www.michigansandblasting.com/). Guy said he's done about 1000 cars in the last ~ 30 years. They seem to have lots of options for media and primer. I think just blasting my car was $700-900. Keep in mind I don't have much car to blast right now! :lol: :lol: They are in Redford, and they guy also will pick up and drop off which helps since I don't have a trailer. They charge $60 / hr to pick up and drop off which isn't bad. I'm only about 25 minutes from them so about $60 each way should cover it. They need the car for a couple of days to do it, which will also allow me to clean out my garage! :thumbsup:

65_LS1_T56

02-02-2011, 09:34 AM

Hoping to go to Autorama with a guy from work. I think I saw on here that some people were going to meet up before hand and have dinner in Greektown. May do that. We should meet up.

I found Michigan Sand Blasting (www.michigansandblasting.com/). Guy said he's done about 1000 cars in the last ~ 30 years. They seem to have lots of options for media and primer. I think just blasting my car was $700-900. Keep in mind I don't have much car to blast right now! :lol: :lol: They are in Redford, and they guy also will pick up and drop off which helps since I don't have a trailer. They charge $60 / hr to pick up and drop off which isn't bad. I'm only about 25 minutes from them so about $60 each way should cover it. They need the car for a couple of days to do it, which will also allow me to clean out my garage! :thumbsup:

That place looks like a top notch place. Been to their website before, but didn't see much on autobodies. Good to know for more options. I am having someone put quarters on mine and he said he'd clean it up an prime after blasting. He uses a "wash primer" or something like that.
I hear you on the garage cleanout. Mine is trashed after cutting, welding, grinding on my frame when I narrowed it and boxed it. I need to get the LS1 and T56 in and mocked up so I can build the mounts now.
We are off on a snowday today, got hit pretty good last nite/today.
I'll let you know about Autoramma, not sure what day I'm going yet. Somebody told me early Sunday is a good time.

bdahlg68

03-08-2011, 03:07 PM

Car was blasted and primed at Michigan Sand Blasting. They came and picked up the car last Monday, blasted, primed, and returned the car today. It was blasted with Starlite and primed with Kem Kromik primer. Didn't go with epoxy simply because there is still a lot of metal to remove and the extra cost just didn't make sense. Very happy with the blast and prime - perfect for what I needed. Overall no real surprises except that the rockers are also swiss cheese.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/TXakB3P6CNI/AAAAAAAAXPI/xz0qp6ir95w/s800/IMG-20110308-00015.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/TXakHd45M6I/AAAAAAAAXPQ/586qj95NAHg/s800/IMG-20110308-00014.jpg

65_LS1_T56

03-09-2011, 03:45 PM

Looks good Brian. Happy with the service there? I may have to give them a call, gettin close to sending mine to Tony's. Hopefully in April. I can't wait until mine is all one color.

Back from your trip yet? Talking assembly machines tomorrow with your counterparts. :cool:

bdahlg68

03-09-2011, 06:50 PM

They did pretty good. They blasted to clean metal. Not sure ifiduse the starlite on a whole car with big flat panels as it's maybe a bit aggressive. They can use just about any media though, like walnut or soda. They can also do a combination like walnut then only starlite the rust out. They seem to know their stuff.

I may be up there tomorrow too. We'll see. Been a crazy couple of weeks.

bdahlg68

03-21-2011, 11:13 AM

I am getting my rendering done by Shawn Mascoll and I just got some samples to share. The biggest point for me was to get an impression of the wheels (I love the way they look here) and get some guidance on color. I was debating whether to stay with the blue like my last Firebird, or go a bit wilder with a green color.

The blue will get darkened a bit for the final rendering, more like the old Fathom Blue Metallic color from 68 Chevy's. I am going with this and chrome trim for the final rendering.

The green color is Peridot Green Metallic from the new Porsche Cayman R. I love this color. Someday I will paint a car that color!

These are just the color samples, so the lighting / details are still being adjusted. Still, this is damn cool!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/TYeEyZBET4I/AAAAAAAAXQQ/vhtZJRJ5KLc/s800/BD68F8.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/TYeEyoLuZgI/AAAAAAAAXQU/mOdqzjMQQR4/s800/BD68F.jpg

Thoughts and comments welcome...

T_Raven

03-21-2011, 02:18 PM

I like the 2nd green one

65_LS1_T56

03-21-2011, 04:01 PM

Greeeeeennnn, do it Brian, green, you want it eventually, why not now? Do it, green with the silver/brushed/chrome wheels. Go green, everybody's "going green", right?

Hey, I like the green.

Chicken Louie

03-22-2011, 06:24 AM

Another vote for the green one! Your build is looking great:thumbsup:

bdahlg68

04-07-2011, 06:16 PM

Sorry, no green.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_7wZtTZYdfvc/TZ2YlyRKlxI/AAAAAAAAXQ0/VWT-A86siBQ/s800/68_Firebird.jpg

tones2SS

04-07-2011, 06:45 PM

That looks killer Brian. :yes:

67rstbkt

04-08-2011, 09:16 AM

Nice, looks great in blue :thumbsup: . I'm going with that Subaru rally blue for my Bird.

waynieZ

04-08-2011, 03:10 PM

Awesome rendering.

geberhard

04-11-2011, 11:23 PM

Brian good call, I think either green or blue will come out killer!

BTW have a lead on TA steel hoods for about $500 (I am ordering one soon), so pm me if interested - I am not associated with the vendor, just do not know if it is ok to post here?

Tuske427

04-12-2011, 11:36 PM

I like the 2nd green one

aGREENed!

bdahlg68

04-13-2011, 02:13 PM

Surprised how many people prefer the green!
We'll see. I'm years from paint, but still plan on blue.

geberhard

04-13-2011, 03:55 PM

65_LS1_T56

04-14-2011, 05:07 PM

Brian, the really cool thing with the green is the uniqueness and how it brings up the car. I have seen a few nicely executed blue birds, but again really depends on what you are shooting for.

I.e. Adrienne's

http://images.popularhotrodding.com/images/0810phr_19_z+1968_pontiac_firebird+adrienne_janic. jpg

I could photoshop your face in here if you wanted to see what you look like in front of a blue bird Brian?? Just trying to help. :_paranoid

killer67

04-15-2011, 12:33 AM

Are those concave wheels? Who makes them? I thought you were going with ZR1 black wheels. I like the rendering wheels better :thumbsup:

bdahlg68

04-18-2011, 09:38 AM

I could photoshop your face in here if you wanted to see what you look like in front of a blue bird Brian?? Just trying to help. :_paranoid

That's insulting....... to her anyway.

Are those concave wheels? Who makes them? I thought you were going with ZR1 black wheels. I like the rendering wheels better :thumbsup:

They are ADV.1 wheels. Model is ADV5 Flowspec's. Waiting for them to come out with 19's and then I may pick them up. Was leaning towards the ZR1's until I came across these. Now I gotta have em.

PASD U

04-22-2011, 09:40 PM

I like the Green too. Green/black would be a bit of a departure from so many others. Especially like the ADV1 choice. :thumbsup: Why not a set for BOTH Pontiacs?:D

bdahlg68

06-11-2011, 12:49 PM

Progress! In between preparing the nursery for our first baby and watching the Bruins there hasn't been much time for the Bird. But today I was able to put in a few hours and got the old inner cowl completely out and fitted the new one. I need to make a few adjustments but it is almost ready to weld!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FMw0P7hA3JY/TfO3v5LYDdI/AAAAAAAAXSU/ENHPyYNZEIA/s800/Canton-20110611-00008.jpg

bdahlg68

06-18-2011, 03:13 PM

KPC67

06-18-2011, 08:58 PM

looks good:thumbsup:

GregWeld

06-18-2011, 09:51 PM

Lots of plug welding and sanding later, the cowl is in and so is the DSE fill plate. Still some plug welds to do and some places to weld on the fill plate.

Question! Do I really need to tack every single spot, ors every half inch ok???

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4c9tm5O0hpI/TfztKRGoaiI/AAAAAAAAXTE/R9YePl8gWWM/s800/Canton-20110618-00015.jpg

I TIG welded the one I just did with Silicone Bronze rod -- it's low heat makes it ideal for NON structural --- but since you cut the old one out - you need to have some structure - I'd weld it solid - just watch your heat. You're going to have to bodywork that big flat area one way or the other if you want it to look good.

GregWeld

06-18-2011, 09:54 PM

I went back to look after posting -- and I see that you're probably asking about the DSE panel -- again - I welded the one I just did solid as I stated above...

I thought maybe you were asking about the cowl to firewall....

Either way -- solid is good - probably overkill -- but I don't want to go back to fix a cracked paint job!! :unibrow:

Ron Fox

06-18-2011, 10:24 PM

Blue Bird :thumbsup:

Nice build!

bdahlg68

06-19-2011, 06:22 AM

bdahlg68

06-21-2011, 07:25 PM

Baby steps. Drivers side drip rail is welded in and quarter and roof test fitted.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-doPkT1kaywk/TgExp-aVHRI/AAAAAAAAXUE/MPlZ_ohBrrs/s800/Canton-20110621-00022.jpg

Passenger side is next!

cencalc6

06-22-2011, 12:21 AM

nice job :cheers:

bdahlg68

08-05-2011, 07:44 PM

A small update....
Passenger side drip rail is welded in. Panels were test fitted and I'm happy so far.

Trunk pan removal has started
DSE tubs are here
JRS front suspension is ordered and should ship next week!
5.3 LM7 truck engine free of charge has been found (just have to ship it in)

Engine build plans are under investigation. Debating stroker kits and top end packages. Targeting around 500hp at the crank. Truckin magazine did a good project with the LM7 and went through all these options so I'm using that as a bit of a guide.

With the baby here there hasn't been any time to do much actual work to the car over the last six weeks (actually none). Maybe some spare time will arise soon!

bdahlg68

10-01-2011, 03:24 PM

JRS Apex C6 Front Suspension is in... took a bit longer than planned to get it here, but it's here. Still missing a few bits and pieces, but I test assembled most of it this weekend. Once I get the missing pieces, the frame will go for e-coat and final assembly will be done. Overall the quality seems pretty damn good, especially on the frame. Some long and impressive welds.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3nkwOyPzqXs/ToeCESi63vI/AAAAAAAAXuQ/0GyV-YeEca8/s800/IMG_6089.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zgSOjUnhJIc/ToeCG7melWI/AAAAAAAAXuU/lWRLspGJl1g/s800/IMG_6090.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vqx9ADZxqN0/ToeCIiPi18I/AAAAAAAAXug/PBmqBu930MM/s800/IMG_6093.JPG

hotrodgary

11-02-2011, 07:14 AM

Nice project!! I will be watching the progress!:thumbsup:

I'm from the Flint area, doing a 64 chevelle wagon.

-Gary

Hugger67RSSS

11-02-2011, 12:08 PM

I also bought a JRS frame for my 68 Camaro from Jake and was impressed with the quality, good luck with the build!

bdahlg68

11-02-2011, 03:45 PM

Nice project!! I will be watching the progress!:thumbsup:

I'm from the Flint area, doing a 64 chevelle wagon.

-Gary

Awesome! A buddy of mine is building a 65 Chevelle in Lapeer. If you need suspension let me know. He helped design one!

bdahlg68

11-02-2011, 03:46 PM

I also bought a JRS frame for my 68 Camaro from Jake and was impressed with the quality, good luck with the build!

Thanks! Waiting on the shocks from Bilstein forever. Then I just need time!

65_LS1_T56

11-30-2011, 03:43 PM

What's next? How about some pics, we all love pics.

Heartlandrods

11-30-2011, 04:57 PM

So I think I found a solution to get my car blasted and primed. I found a company that will pick up, blast, prime, and drop off my car for around $1200-1300. Not bad. Half the price of chemical strip and e-coat.

Anyone recommend a primer to use after blasting? They proposed Kem Kromic as a mid-grade primer. This is just really for the inner structure as I really just want something tough and that will seal well.

PPG DP90 Epoxy primer is what you want after blasting. Will seal everything and you can bodywork right over it!

GregWeld

11-30-2011, 05:38 PM

Yep! You want an EPOXY primer on bare metal....

I second the PPG DP90 (which is just a color number - the 90 says it's black)...

bdahlg68

11-30-2011, 05:44 PM

What's next? How about some pics, we all love pics.

You know what's next! Just waiting on a rear framerail design and a BMW E90 rear axle module or 2.....

pics coming up.....

bdahlg68

11-30-2011, 05:51 PM

PPG DP90 Epoxy primer is what you want after blasting. Will seal everything and you can bodywork right over it!

Yep! You want an EPOXY primer on bare metal....

I second the PPG DP90 (which is just a color number - the 90 says it's black)...

so do i need to go back down to bare metal before putting on the DP90 or can it just go over the kem khromic?? this is just for the inner structure as all the external panels are new.

GregWeld

11-30-2011, 05:55 PM

That's a chemical question -- I'd ask PPG if they're compatible.

65_LS1_T56

11-30-2011, 06:43 PM

You know what's next! Just waiting on a rear framerail design and a BMW E90 rear axle module or 2.....

pics coming up.....

:_paranoid I wasn't gonna say anything :unibrow:

bdahlg68

11-30-2011, 08:02 PM

Sorry for the über-crappy Crackberry picture, but front suspension is mock-fitted to car using Global West solid mounts. Bumper is mocked up to subframe more to get it out of the way than anything....

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pYAmMLoPoeY/TtbpXBj1RXI/AAAAAAAAYMU/VhQkfW5n0qU/s800/Canton-20111130-00189.jpg

rear suspension direction has changed... development under way. hope to make some progress by spring...:wow:

DIGI-TAILS

12-01-2011, 01:56 AM

looks your progressing!!! Good Luck!!! :)

sunoco67

01-31-2012, 05:02 PM

Any more progress???

bdahlg68

01-31-2012, 06:41 PM

Any more progress???

Lots of progress... in my head anyway! Not too much accomplished on the car. Been having neighbor problems in my condo so I'm avoiding making too much noise. Plus my wife and I just bought a house (with an additional garage spot too). Also the garage will have 20amp dedicated outlet and 220. This will definitely help my welding options. Said house however has dampened my car budget significantly for the time being.

About those welding options, I'm significantly reconsidering suspension directions front and rear. Depends a bit on getting some design data and taking it on with a buddy from there. Basically means going full length frame rails and bolt in chassis modules. The IRS products on the market are excellent, but seem also very costly. Not that I can do it better, but I am not going for full race duds. For less cost, I'm thinking I can do it on my own with a very different starting point (famous last words, right?) and get exactly what I want. Excellent dynamics, great responsiveness for braking and steering, light weight (and closer to 50/50 weight I hope), and still have a good ride and street manners. And maybe, just maybe be successful in introducing a product. We'll see.

The following are still planned:
1.) fully adjustable coilovers
2.) big brakes (maybe even 15" front rotors)
3.) IRS
4.) Limited slip rear diff
5.) lots of aluminum bits (including an aluminum front subframe)
6.) ABS and maybe stability control (and maybe some other electronic goodies like rain sensing wipers)

Like I said, lots of ideas in my head. I guess that's the downfall of working in the OE chassis industry - my mind is wandering through lots of "opportunities." :willy: :willy: :willy:

Ron in SoCal

01-31-2012, 09:46 PM

^ love your vision. Can't wait to see it....:thumbsup:

Tuske427

02-01-2012, 11:38 PM

Sounds like a great plan! Take your time (don't rush it) and you'll get there.

Have you considered moving the engine back for better weight distribution?

65_LS1_T56

02-02-2012, 10:12 AM

^ love your vision. Can't wait to see it....:thumbsup:

Me too Ron, me too. :unibrow:

bdahlg68

02-02-2012, 06:56 PM

Me too Ron, me too. :unibrow:

^ Aaron might be that buddy helping take it on! :yes: :yes:

I can't wait to see it either! But progress for the next 6 months is going to be slow... Should be in the new house in April. If we are successful in selling the current place or renting at a decent price, the budget may free back up a bit shortly after. Then I just need a stack of various size steel tubes and a better welder to start building up a chassis table and frame rails.

bdahlg68

07-19-2012, 07:30 PM

Ok, so almost 6 months later...

Just got into the new house about a month ago. Love the house, lots of space, builder was a schmuck, but all-in-all, I'm happy. Old place is up for sale and we're hoping for a quick sale since there are no other 3 bed units in the sub. That will help free up the budget again... we shall see.

Anyway, so I've started piecing together the rear suspension. Made some good progress in procuring parts over the last few weeks so perhaps its time to share. Don't mind the banged up dust shield or anything like that, this is still mock up time.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-l9c3UpQWR1E/UAivWOwD9pI/AAAAAAAAY2s/kxuggH95Tbo/s800/IMG_6512.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_ANd51RG4wM/UAivYO45DXI/AAAAAAAAY2o/5XShGLtwiTc/s800/IMG_6518.JPG

Long way to go from here, because that is unfortunately not just going to bolt-in if you know what I mean..... to help progress my front sub is for sale if anyone is looking... (http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=36523)

65_LS1_T56

07-19-2012, 07:42 PM

Well I'll be....thought this project was a gonner. Almost deleted my subscription :_paranoid

Looks pretty good. That should be a good challenge for you to stuff that under the firechicken. I'm visualizing some rocker arms to turn the shocks (coilovers later) 90deg to a lateral orientation in the trunk..:unibrow:

bdahlg68

07-19-2012, 07:57 PM

GregWeld

07-19-2012, 08:31 PM

Dude let's see pics of the new house!!

bdahlg68

07-19-2012, 08:53 PM

I don't have much at my fingertips, but here is one from before she was finished.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NBEyyeAUW-A/UAjHKzj0vTI/AAAAAAAAY3E/C7S-JuW6_CQ/s800/ServiceAssessingImageSrc.jpg

Took this looking into the backyard from the kitchen.....

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YAGdeXvtQf0/UAjH22zVnuI/AAAAAAAAY3M/M46GNhB9G4g/s800/IMG_6472.JPG

GregWeld

07-19-2012, 09:22 PM

Nice!!

bdahlg68

09-30-2012, 07:53 PM

So when I was removing the drivers quarter I absolutely destroyed the brace that the door striker threads into. I will NEVER make that mistake again. First, because you can't just buy a new one. And second, because these things are a nightmare to extract from another car.....

I did eventually win though...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TjD_tUac_Ko/UGj2IJYGNqI/AAAAAAAAY8U/KRBl9ZMq3vY/s800/Northville-20120930-00242.jpg

I will hopefully be able to have the rear of the car welded back together by thanksgiving and start roughing in the rear suspension. The replacement panels aren't perfect, but the quarters don't seem too bad. The tail panel might be a different story, but we'll see as it is really only near the bottom. I'm less concerned there as I may do something unique back there anyway. Any 1st gen experts want to lend a hand? I pay in really good beer and food!

Tuske427

09-30-2012, 08:48 PM

bdahlg68

10-07-2012, 07:03 PM

How about recessing the tail panel???

I like the way it looks, but also looks like lots of work!

I was starting to wonder if I'd ever be able to get this thing to start going back together - and finally it seems to be starting.... Pretty happy with the alignment so far. Still deciding if I want to play with it some more while I figure out everywhere that needs to be welded! The only area I'm currently concerned about is the sail panel area. It seems to be a bit wiggly near the bottom of the drip rail and I don't like the way it meets the roof panel. Outer wheelhouse is also mocked in and seems to be fitting ok. Still need to finalize the passenger side and then it's on to welding!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-grH9rne3k3g/UHIjKnXv-LI/AAAAAAAAY9Q/T-hj_iBdJdM/s800/IMG_6537.JPG

bdahlg68

10-08-2012, 11:32 AM

Now I just need to fab this in.... simple, right?

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Q1RQSkFeQi0/UHL5UgFrbII/AAAAAAAAY98/bIvc5dDdzo8/s800/IMG_6541.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-NpueYPuQ58A/UHL5UJ8On_I/AAAAAAAAY90/9fnjRiQE2jM/s800/IMG_6540.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KT8psb09Tlk/UHL5UwuROOI/AAAAAAAAY-I/VLutPuesiEQ/s800/IMG_6542.JPG

bonecrrusher

10-08-2012, 07:19 PM

What is that rear end/chassis part out of?

badmatt

10-08-2012, 07:22 PM

Looks to be GTO? or 5th gen Camaro.

scratch that its BMW..

bdahlg68

10-08-2012, 08:01 PM

Looks to be GTO? or 5th gen Camaro.

scratch that its BMW..

Correct - E9x 3-series rear suspension. Very curious to see how difficult this is going to be to fab in....

LSfan70s

10-09-2012, 07:00 AM

Correct - E9x 3-series rear suspension. Very curious to see how difficult this is going to be to fab in....

Please post tons of pics. Subscribing with "instant notification by email". Good luck with it :thumbsup:

Rick D

10-09-2012, 07:19 AM

bdahlg68

10-09-2012, 07:52 AM

Brain just a thought here but are you using the front suspension from the BMW?? If you plan on using the whole setup I would find a donor car and cut out the whole floor and work back from there? Not sure if the wheel base or track width lines up? Even if the the firebird is wider it would be easier to split the BMW setup down the middle and build a tunnel for trans and drive shaft?? Just been thinking of some of the ways I would start.

This is what I want to do. The front suspension will be far more complex to integrate as it is a Mac Strut on the BMW. The line of what to steal from the BMW and what not is very fuzzy at this point. The track widths are actually within an acceptable variance that can be managed by wheel offsets. Plus I need to offload my JRS front suspension to move forward on the BMW front suspension.....

Rick D

10-09-2012, 08:33 AM

Is the E9X platform the M3 series? Or just any 3 series?

bdahlg68

10-09-2012, 09:35 AM

Is the E9X platform the M3 series? Or just any 3 series?

E9x is all encompassing (coupe, sedan, wagon, convertible) regular and M3 versions. Obviously all variants have their unique parts. Chassis is pretty common though except for M3 which has uinique subframe, control arms / toe link, and tunable parts.

bdahlg68

05-09-2013, 12:08 PM

:topic: :topic:

Finally starting to make progress again. Picked up the needed tools and steel to do what I want to do and started on the chassis table.

First thing I addresses was lighting. I typically only get to work in the garage after 8 or 8:30 at night, so the 3 standard bulbs weren't cutting it. I replaced 2 of the sockets with flush mount 2 bulb T5HO fixtures. Nice improvement.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EbRemHY7zEM/UYvkOrPZchI/AAAAAAAAZLs/JDSgdgcXMuw/s800/image.jpeg

Then I had been looking at a Quincy 3.5 hp compressor for a long time. Finally bit the bullet. Should be plenty for me. Not wired up yet, but hope to have that wrapped up soon. Hoping it's quiet enough (rated at 76 db).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-InbHLwqe3b4/UYvkP6UwgYI/AAAAAAAAZL8/6bM7tOhuHOg/s800/image.jpeg

Then I pieced together the MIG / plasma / cart from Eastwood as they each went on sale. Boy, gas MIG is wayyyyyy better than flux core. Pretty much no spatter whatsoever. I have not tried the plasma yet as I need the compressor hooked up first and need to install a dryer.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TxvUeskdFB0/UYvkO6-QUGI/AAAAAAAAZL0/gkJBV23ySOU/s800/image.jpeg

Lastly I ordered about 750 lbs of steel to build a chassis table and frame rails. Chassis table is underway. With some helpful tips I'm pretty happy with the levelness / straightness so far. Just tacked together for now and moved out of the way until I get some more time to work on it.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L7q2tiPtfak/UYvkQiSXKdI/AAAAAAAAZMI/I5OaLZ43wkw/s800/image.jpeg

That 69 T/A hood motivates me every time I see it. Hoping to have the chassis table wrapped up in another week or two. Then I'm going to have a beer party to get the car on it! :G-Dub:

bdahlg68

05-13-2013, 08:45 PM

Just about finished with the chassis table. Need to weld on the supports for the leveling feet and 2 more casters. After a final level and flat check I will weld it all up, clean it up, and maybe paint it before putting it to use.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Iwr6v-mgt9c/UZGhyMk5waI/AAAAAAAAZPw/Cg10-QQ__3M/s800/photo.JPG

Rick D

05-13-2013, 08:50 PM

Nice table, is it big enough to have the complete chassis on it at once or just the shell?

bdahlg68

05-13-2013, 08:54 PM

Nice table, is it big enough to have the complete chassis on it at once or just the shell?

Thanks Rick. Should be big enough. 10' x 6'. Wheelbase is about 107 as I recall? Might need to extend a bit to do bumpers, but that shouldn't be too difficult.

bonecrrusher

05-14-2013, 06:42 PM

Digging the table.

Is that a 3 bay garage?

bdahlg68

05-14-2013, 08:11 PM

Nice table, is it big enough to have the complete chassis on it at once or just the shell?

Digging the table.

Is that a 3 bay garage?

Yes. 3 bay - they call them 3.5 car garages here. But I can only manage 1.5!

waynieZ

05-14-2013, 10:47 PM

Table looks great, nice work.

Tuske427

05-19-2013, 09:52 PM

Nice work on the table. I would recommend one more pair of casters in the middle. It'll give you more support/ disperse the weight load better. Just a thought, hope it's helpful...

65_LS1_T56

05-20-2013, 03:30 PM

Just about finished with the chassis table. Need to weld on the supports for the leveling feet and 2 more casters.

Nice work on the table. I would recommend one more pair of casters in the middle. It'll give you more support/ disperse the weight load better. Just a thought, hope it's helpful...

He's planning on two more and leveling feet also. He just needs to pick up the pace, so slow :action-smiley-027:

bdahlg68

05-20-2013, 09:02 PM

He's planning on two more and leveling feet also. He just needs to pick up the pace, so slow :action-smiley-027:

Dude I work like a mad man for an hour here and there. Just hard to fit in while solving all the worlds problems, hockey, and mowing the lawn.

All six casters are on and all the leveling feet are on. Welding skills are still sketchy him going to blame it on a couple things. Imperfect prep work (gaps and cleaning) and a crappy helmet! :welder: Need to stay between the lines. The lines are my friends. I promise the welding will get better. In the meantime I will accept all constructive criticism.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xgy_YEpZYEc/UZrhYJIOdOI/AAAAAAAAZRU/X_QFUt_2XDU/s800/image.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3TUgE4V8naI/UZrhYPgKQeI/AAAAAAAAZRM/0K-bryix5hg/s800/image.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2r9EAkBrA3A/UZrhYPEYUKI/AAAAAAAAZRQ/NNTonv4VSMs/s800/image.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lbWe02crcME/UZrhZtRQVJI/AAAAAAAAZRY/m6EStewISi4/s800/image.jpg

Royalworks

05-20-2013, 11:14 PM

harbor Freight has auto helmets for 60-70 bucks. Work well.

When I was in school I scribed lines to follow as I welded. Just a bit finer line to follow with your tip and then it will become second nature. But I think you are doing really well!!

Tuske427

05-20-2013, 11:40 PM

He's planning on two more and leveling feet also. He just needs to pick up the pace, so slow :action-smiley-027:

Ah, I missed that. Too busy looking at the pics I suppose

65_LS1_T56

05-21-2013, 10:50 AM

Dude I work like a mad man for an hour here and there. Just hard to fit in while solving all the worlds problems, hockey, and mowing the lawn.

All six casters are on and all the leveling feet are on. Welding skills are still sketchy him going to blame it on a couple things. Imperfect prep work (gaps and cleaning) and a crappy helmet! :welder: Need to stay between the lines. The lines are my friends. I promise the welding will get better. In the meantime I will accept all constructive criticism.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xgy_YEpZYEc/UZrhYJIOdOI/AAAAAAAAZRU/X_QFUt_2XDU/s800/image.jpg

One suggestion, and I'm no expert with the metal caulk gun, would be to clean the areas with a flap wheel first. Weld might be cleaner when done. Looks pretty good so far though :newbie:

66fury

05-21-2013, 03:21 PM

Welds are good.clean metal better and if you don't like it, grind the lumps down a bit and run another pass.practice,practice practice

waynieZ

05-21-2013, 04:28 PM

Looking good.

RussMurco

09-13-2013, 01:38 PM

How do I keep missing these great builds?!
Another awesome Firebird and I'd love to see the grafting of a BMW M3 suspension to it!!!

bdahlg68

09-18-2013, 07:24 AM

Mocking up the new rear frame rails in wood first because it is way easier to cut quickly and throw in the garbage.... Getting pretty close on the angles / lengths. Will likely end up building this out of 2x3x11g tube. Here it is 1.75x1.75 pieces of wood.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0dBFQJKkzR4/UjmZZDvfo_I/AAAAAAAAZ04/5d6iYiGhqoI/w913-h685-no/photo+1.JPG

On other progress, the garage was taken over by a barrage of house projects. Garage door opener needed to be replaced already, a big cedar playscape needed to be refinished and installed in the back yard, a 10x14 rug is in a box and in the garage needs to be moved inside, and on and on and on. The garage had turned completely into a non-usable space. I've since fixed that by getting the playscape done, and getting some of those Monkey Bars shelves. They hold 1000lbs each and are a 2' x 4' shelf about 7ft above the floor and have hooks to also hang stuff up. Made a big difference.

The compressor is wired and running and a 3/4" Rapid Air kit brings the air to 3 outlets, 2 on the back wall of the garage (right on the below picture) and 1 between the 2 garage doors (left on below picture). Glad that's done.

The car is up on the chassis table, albeit not at ride height or in position. It's currently at a 3" ride height with no rake. Cool but not practical. Planning to move it up 2-2.5 inches and give it a bit of rake (0.5" - 1"). With that done, I built the support for the BMW subframe based off measurements I took on an actual car. That allowed me to move on to the mock up phase. Now ready to start making the steel pieces. Unfortunately, I think this is the easy part. Getting the car and subframe positioned precisely is my biggest concern. Even with the amount of adjustment built into these production suspensions, I want to get it as close as possible. Once I'm at that point, I need to check if my idea about tying into the existing body will work. The way I'm planning to do that would make it relatively easy and not very expensive.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WD0AdEu0eW0/UjmZaFYhB7I/AAAAAAAAZ0s/2smqFyAsEQo/w913-h685-no/photo+2.JPG

bdahlg68

09-20-2013, 10:28 PM

And since this isn't a woodworking site and wood just won't work, I made one out of proper material!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-e64kn610NyE/Uj0fDO5r-iI/AAAAAAAAZ2s/zK38bXP4kIE/s800/photo.JPG

Took 2 tries to get it right. First attempt was cutting with a plasma cutter. Second was with a cut off wheel on my grinder. Neither of these methods are perfect, but the cut off wheel worked out a bit better.

waynieZ

09-21-2013, 12:29 PM

It looks good.

bdahlg68

09-30-2013, 08:23 AM

Made some more progress on the frame rails... Welds are getting prettier as I get used to reading my welds and adjusting wire speed and output. Also getting used to the plasma cutter. Roughed out the first spring pad, cut for the angles, and partially welded back together. I ran out of wire (doh) so I just need to finish welding and clean up the edges. Probably going to need to cut back the leading edge to clear the upper control arm attachment to the subframe as well. I have another one rough cut, but I'm not super happy with how it came out. It was the first one I made. So I might need to make another one. These are made out of 3/16" plate, so it's not the easiest to cut. The rear spring rates on these cars is 400-500 lb/in, so I just want to be sure it's stiff. It will be framed in and capped as well - but will probably drop to 1/8" or 11g for that.

I've had a few issues with the plasma unit, but Eastwood has been great. Need to replace the air control solenoid as the plastic lines seem to just keep popping out of it. They sent me a new one so just need to install. Hope that takes care of the issues. :weld:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FzAnqZGkZAY/UkA1e_skXPI/AAAAAAAAZ3E/-oTClWpT9qk/w482-h642-no/photo+1.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hL5bk3mS8vw/UkmF7U68NvI/AAAAAAAAZ4w/Xt0B7EYvKQ0/w856-h642-no/ATT04338

bdahlg68

10-05-2013, 09:00 PM

Getting closer on the rear frame. Ended up having the spring pads CNC plasma cut (thanks for the cad help Aaron). So those are done and tacked on the frame. Time to see if I can use the threaded inserts out of the BMW rails I have. Then I just need to fab up the shock towers.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-BCQCLJd4jiE/UlDPQmBQRHI/AAAAAAAAZ5M/CdxMmHOPOAk/w1142-h856-no/photo+1.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WQyammjxiDo/UlDPRAmkHdI/AAAAAAAAZ5U/m-0wLWRaAgI/w1144-h858-no/photo+2.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-F77tzC97Dow/UlDPRZ4WsWI/AAAAAAAAZ5Y/RLh9va6guD4/w1144-h858-no/photo+3.JPG

WSSix

10-06-2013, 07:42 AM

Cool. Glad to see progress being made on the car, Brian. Good luck!

65_LS1_T56

10-06-2013, 11:08 AM

Getting closer on the rear frame. Ended up having the spring pads CNC plasma cut (thanks for the cad help Aaron).

hey no problem. You need to download Draftsight...it's free. http://www.3ds.com/products-services/draftsight/overview/
It would work great for making plasma profiles quickly.

RussMurco

10-07-2013, 07:46 AM

Oh, I so want to see this installed! Keep rolling!!!

bdahlg68

10-21-2013, 08:57 AM

Slowly but surely.... the subframe now bolts to the frame rails at all 4 corners and I starter to box in the spring pads. Goal is to have this done including the shock towers before it's too cold in the garage. Feel like my welds are getting better even though they still aren't super pretty. Any suggestions for continued weld improvements are welcomed (besides just practice - which I am trying to do). :welder:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Z1vnFL3FbBc/UmU9MiPBdMI/AAAAAAAAZ7I/HwLUP3_LCsE/w913-h685-no/photo.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/0GoComFweF330jrCfwvZvdvvdgM2KNe7q5YYH8JflbEq=s685-no

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--vo4Z4-dM6U/UmU9KgD3E8I/AAAAAAAAZ64/GsKdMKDNVow/s685-no/photo+4.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-oT942M4NRcQ/UmU9LPmORtI/AAAAAAAAZ68/aFAsD2MLOeI/s685-no/photo+5.JPG

GregWeld

10-21-2013, 09:24 AM

bdahlg68

10-21-2013, 10:23 AM

Brian -- Some of what you're seeing is that your metal is not super clean -- and that means INSIDE and out.... and when oil/grease etc gets hot - it's gets sucked into your weld puddle and will cause holes and discoloration etc.

Cool. Thanks for the tip. Definitely ignored the inside. Will research cleaning tips and techniques for inside if tubes.

RussMurco

10-21-2013, 10:29 AM

Goal is to have this done including the shock towers before it's too cold in the garage.

I'm feeling for ya! We got our first snowflakes this morning and I just got the darn car in the garage but new radiant heaters and new lamps are on the way so I may be able to salvage some winter work out of it!

geberhard

01-27-2014, 03:45 PM

Brian, how are things going? Any updates on the project?

Gui

65_LS1_T56

01-27-2014, 05:40 PM

yeah, geez there are tumbleweeds in here...:mock:

bdahlg68

04-08-2014, 01:09 PM

yeah, geez there are tumbleweeds in here...:mock:

Now that (knock on wood) Winter seems to be over.... maybe I can get some work done.... oh, and maybe I can stay in the country while I'm at it! Not much progress over the winter (read: none). I did start to build a workbench to help me work faster / smarter. Hope to get that done next and clean up the garage a bit to get moving. Supposed to be nice this weekend - almost room temperature outside!

bdahlg68

05-31-2014, 08:51 PM

Rear frame section is just about ready to go in. Removing the original frame rails is a more challenging task than I expected. Not much room to move around under there! Also pretty tricky trying to set the rear axle position when everything is moving! :sieg: Sneaking up on it little by little.

http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj531/briandahlgren/Frankenbird/B7F248F2-BA00-42F1-9704-0D34D17AC322_zpsl2wbqbzo.jpg

Also picked up a set of front frame rails from Scott Mock. Easy transaction was handled quickly and quality looks good. They are just bare rails as I will need to modify them anyway.

http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj531/briandahlgren/Frankenbird/E784D1B1-95AF-4C34-A894-7F7DD41EE61B_zpsnwmlmmck.jpg

streetbird

06-01-2014, 08:47 AM

cant wait to see your frame rail attach to the car, it will be a challenge.
keep going

bdahlg68

04-06-2015, 12:32 PM

Time to dust things off a bit.... shortly after the last update I decided to make a career change. That has certainly kept me busy but it has also been very exciting. In the little spare time I had during fall / winter, I decided to work on designing my own front subframe to accept the BMW suspension I plan on using. Well, I'm pretty happy with where it's at and I've started sourcing parts. What you're looking at isn't the final version - but it's pretty close. Hope to have some of the parts here in the next few weeks to start welding up. The downbars will eventually be triangulated near the firewall to brace the strut towers.

Always up for any input / comments / criticism.

http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj531/briandahlgren/front%20subframe%20assembly%202_zpslx9e9ppn.jpg

and an older version w/ an LS...

http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj531/briandahlgren/front%20subframe%20assembly_zpsc8i08ldg.jpg

WSSix

04-07-2015, 06:28 AM

Looks badass to me. Glad to see you making progress. Congrats on the positive career change.

bdahlg68

05-03-2015, 07:15 PM

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/03/3f9ba0dde03e079a44ab15e087051090.jpg

Slowly putting the puzzle together. So far so good.

Tuske427

05-03-2015, 09:36 PM

Nice CAD work! It's looking clean. what engine are you going with?

dhutton

05-04-2015, 05:31 AM

Very cool. That is something you don't see every day.

Don

bdahlg68

05-04-2015, 12:26 PM

Nice CAD work! It's looking clean. what engine are you going with?

Thanks! Currently planning on using an S54 out of an E46 M3. Sort of a modern take on a Firebird Sprint.

Very cool. That is something you don't see every day.

Don

Thanks Don!

65_LS1_T56

05-04-2015, 12:35 PM

Looks like a production line..how many are you building?
Looks like the plasma parts worked good.

bdahlg68

05-04-2015, 12:41 PM

Looks like a production line..how many are you building?
Looks like the plasma parts worked good.

Well in theory I could build a couple more if I don't screw this one up. The plasma parts worked out awesome. They bent really easy - and right on the cut line. I just need to figure out fore/aft placement of the 6 subframe mount holes and strut tower. The rest is ready to weld together.

Tuske427

05-04-2015, 02:11 PM

Thanks! Currently planning on using an S54 out of an E46 M3. Sort of a modern take on a Firebird Sprint.

very cool rationale. Any plans for Turbocharging it?

a couple of thoughts, hopefully they are welcomed-

- maybe remove the BMW logos on the engine and replace with Pontiac logos/ paint with Pontiac blue for an homage.
- I took the liberty of quickly photoshopping somebody's 'bird pic I pulled from the web and made a single scoop 400 hood with it- thinking of those euro/ japanese cars with an asymmetrical scoop intake. Maybe make a modified OHC 6 emblem with the BMW engine displacement on it. Or maybe don't do this, ha ha ha

bdahlg68

05-04-2015, 02:28 PM

very cool rationale. Any plans for Turbocharging it?

a couple of thoughts, hopefully they are welcomed-

- maybe remove the BMW logos on the engine and replace with Pontiac logos/ paint with Pontiac blue for an homage.
- I took the liberty of quickly photoshopping somebody's 'bird pic I pulled from the web and made a single scoop 400 hood with it- thinking of those euro/ japanese cars with an asymmetrical scoop intake. Maybe make a modified OHC 6 emblem with the BMW engine displacement on it. Or maybe don't do this, ha ha ha

Phase 2 will likely include a supercharger. They make some nice kits that will get it over 500hp (Active Autowerke, ESS Tuning, etc). First priority is to start driving and hear this thing at 8000 rpm!

The engine block will definitely be Pontiac Blue - just need to check how much you will see. I'm not planning to show any BMW logos underhood if possible.

I have a repop 69 T/A hood that I'll be using - will definately chew on the single scoop idea. I hadn't previously thought of that. Let's see how my sheet metal skills develop between now and then! :weld:

Thanks for the input - it's always welcome as long as it doesn't involve someone telling me it's a bad idea!

bdahlg68

05-08-2015, 07:38 PM

Got the front subframe welded up enough to test fit and finish the firewall clearance cuts. Fit with no issues after a couple of cuts. Now I need to mock in the front suspension and drill holes for the threaded mounts. The strut towers will require some cuts to the fenders so those will come last when I have the fenders a bit closer to final position.

So far very happy with the parts as sourced. They have all been spot on. Knock on wood.

http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj531/briandahlgren/Frankenbird/20150508_163344_zpsvq18la2o.jpg

http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj531/briandahlgren/Frankenbird/20150508_173529_zpsj90pwcpx.jpg

WSSix

05-10-2015, 08:31 PM

Nice work, Brian. Glad to hear you're going to remove the BMW logos etc from the engine. That's a pet peeve of mine seeing words or logos that are no longer relevant to the car.

I'm really partial to the TA hood and spoiler on a 1st gen just because I think they look great. However, that single scoop Ram Air hood isn't a bad idea at all. You may even be able to put a single stripe on there like Mayhem. It could really give it a Euro look if you wanted to go that way. Keep up the good work!

Ron in SoCal

05-11-2015, 11:16 AM

bdahlg68

05-11-2015, 05:11 PM

That s so impressive! Keep goin' man :cheers:
Thanks Ron! I'm trying! I did get 4 of the 6 holes drilled for the mounts. While I think they are in the right spot so that the tires are centered in the front wheel wells this is the part that is purely an educated guess.

Ron in SoCal

05-11-2015, 09:32 PM

^ just a suggestion, mock it up with (close to) final caster so it's as close as possible. :idea:

bdahlg68

05-12-2015, 04:46 AM

^ just a suggestion, mock it up with (close to) final caster so it's as close as possible. :idea:

That's essentially what I've done but there are many variables. It should be close and I should have some adjustment in the body mounts worst case.

PonchoJohn

05-14-2015, 11:59 AM

Thanks Ron! I'm trying! I did get 4 of the 6 holes drilled for the mounts. While I think they are in the right spot so that the tires are centered in the front wheel wells this is the part that is purely an educated guess.
Well, ya figure the bottom rear of the fender can only go so far rearward(it'll butt up to the rocker), so that'll get you 99% of the way there.
This is a very interesting idea you're putting together.

bdahlg68

05-14-2015, 05:25 PM

Well, ya figure the bottom rear of the fender can only go so far rearward(it'll butt up to the rocker), so that'll get you 99% of the way there.
This is a very interesting idea you're putting together.
Thanks! Yeah that's pretty much what I did. As long as I measured caster right it should be good. Maybe I'm worried for nothing but I really want the wheel to be centered perfectly in the wheel well.

65_LS1_T56

05-15-2015, 03:06 PM

Thanks! Yeah that's pretty much what I did. As long as I measured caster right it should be good. Maybe I'm worried for nothing but I really want the wheel to be centered perfectly in the wheel well.

I'll come over and check it with my laser eye...have some beer chilling :)

bdahlg68

05-15-2015, 03:36 PM

Help is always welcome and there is always beer in the fridge here!

bdahlg68

06-29-2015, 08:08 PM

Just about finished with the front suspension..... at least on the driver side. Moved the mounts rearward to try and get the wheel centered in fender. I think I'm pretty close. Some cars seem to have the wheels further rearward but looking at this shot of Mayhem I think I'm in about the same spot. Anyone think I need to go further rearward?

http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj531/briandahlgren/Frankenbird/20150629_200604_zpss0tajjeo.jpg

http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj531/briandahlgren/Frankenbird/CamaroRADS6BlackCenters_05_zpsy1hwgblk.jpg

Nick@HPM

06-30-2015, 06:22 PM

Looks great, love the ride height!!!

:underchair:

bdahlg68

07-06-2015, 01:28 PM

Front suspension is in - needs some small adjustments and final welding. Hood hinges are a problem. Not much room forward of front fender attachment point.

http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj531/briandahlgren/Frankenbird/20150702_160212_zpsn86s4h8z.jpg

WSSix

07-06-2015, 09:24 PM

hersheys69z

07-06-2015, 10:42 PM

Glad to see someone attempting strut suspension

65_LS1_T56

07-07-2015, 03:26 AM

Just put a tilt front end on it :)

bdahlg68

07-07-2015, 07:26 AM

Forward opening hood like a vette? The C5/6 hood hinges lift up so the hood actually doesn't dip down into the area in front of the radiator that much. At least not compared to how a C2/3 vetter did. Looks good Brian.

I think Eddie Motorsports Billet hinges might work. I'm just hesitant to drop the coin and find out otherwise. Regardless, this is not a hard stop - there is a solution here. Vette hinges may be it as well.

Glad to see someone attempting strut suspension

Let's hope it all works as it does in my head!

Just put a tilt front end on it :)

I was thinking I could just lift the whole body to get under hood, or into and out of the car for that matter.

http://www.anitafred.net/images/Drag%20Racing/FC%20Body%20Up.JPG

WSSix

07-08-2015, 11:43 AM

Tilt body FTW!

I have no doubt you'll find a solution, Brian. Good luck!

RussMurco

07-13-2015, 12:00 PM

Troy Trepanier made these for Chicayne, I've always loved them and they don't eat-up a lot of under-hood space! Lots of trial and error in getting the travel, angle, and strut geometry right, but what a great look!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/Murco/0302phr_troyconst04zoom_zpsq9wiecc2.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Murco/media/0302phr_troyconst04zoom_zpsq9wiecc2.jpg.html)

65_LS1_T56

12-18-2015, 05:50 PM

http://cdn.garcya.us/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/spider_web_02.jpg

Haha, how's it going Brian? Haven't talked in a long time!

bdahlg68

12-18-2015, 06:56 PM

bdahlg68

12-18-2015, 06:57 PM

And yes it has been too long. We should try to meet up over the break. You guys working or are you off?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

65_LS1_T56

12-18-2015, 08:31 PM

Well, haven't touched the car since July. Jen is getting her MBA, I got a promotion and we had our floors refinished twice which means our furniture was taking up most of the garage. Still finishing up installing new shoe molding and putting furniture back. Not optimistic I will make much progress this winter either. Plus I may pick up a fox body here shortly. There is also intention for a GT350 in 2017 (at least that's the current plan). Hoping to hold onto the bird as well but will quickly run out of garage space.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
I figured you've been busy.
Sorry to hear about the fox body :lmao:

And yes it has been too long. We should try to meet up over the break. You guys working or are you off?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Yeah, what break?? 24th and 25th, then the first we are off.
We are buried at work. Like beyond buried.

atomicjoe23

04-14-2016, 12:23 PM

Just finished reading this thread and although it's not all my style I was impressed with how far you've come. . .

. . .I would suggest adding some diamond plates to your front and rear subframes where you butt welded them together (the Jake's subframe you originally purchased had them as do the Morrison stuff).

bdahlg68

05-25-2019, 07:03 PM

Well - it's only been about 4 years of quiet on this car...
Here are the cliff notes...
1. Bought, modded and sold a Fox Body
2. No GT350. Was holding out for a GT500 but subsequently left Ford Performance so that's out too. The good thing is the new job gives me a bit of time to work on the car!
3. Had been slowly working on my own chassis design. Peeled it back some to use some current Mustang chassis parts. Was originally going to put this into the fox body but since that's gone - the Firebird is the only target! All the geometry was worked out in CAD - checked bump steer, camber gain and ackerman to make sure all were where I wanted them to be.
4. Ordered a bunch of laser cut tubes and plates that have gone together amazingly close to as planned.
5. Have sold a bunch of parts that will no longer be used / needed. All the BMW stuff is going away. It was a cool idea, but all the front stuff was probably going to need to be reworked or redesigned and there was still alot to do out back to tie in the IRS.
6. Car will have 15.5" front brakes so it will have to run 19" wheels. Planning to run 315's on all corners.

Hoping to be able to provide more updates over the next few months! In the meantime here is a shot of the CAD work on the frame rails and the current state.

rustomatic

05-29-2019, 01:11 PM

This sounds great--I love the sound of Ford stuff under a GM body (with an LS, maybe)!

I wish I'd seen this thread years ago, as I'm on the precipice of doing something really dumb with a BMW e39 suspension/brakes/steering.

Keep at it!

bdahlg68

06-05-2019, 07:27 PM

Not a lot to post about besides lots of sanding, cleaning, measuring, and welding. Then more of all of those. Then even more of all of those. But progress is good! Plus some fun parts showed up! 390mm rotor and 6 piston caliper should do!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190606/a76cbbe10cb421f467c8cdcb4abd5b23.jpg

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WSSix

06-06-2019, 08:34 PM

Glad to see progress being made, Brian. Keep it up!

bdahlg68

06-09-2019, 05:43 PM

More sanding, measuring and welding. Rear structure is now welded on. Mocked up the rear subframe just to make sure everything fits. So far so good but I would say only about 50% through the welding.

Before I started this, I thought I liked welding. I don’t think I do. Maybe if someone prepped everything for me I would like it more. Lol.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190609/89b4b8dded1685df1941db426651f486.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190609/413517d250cd55356b1b416637af6bb3.jpg

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bdahlg68

07-23-2019, 07:30 PM

Still plugging away on the chassis. The rails are almost completely welded up. Cleaned up the frame table and lifted the car up enough to get the chassis up under the car. Tacked on the control arm mounts and will do the other side hopefully in the next few days. Goal is to have the floor cut out and chassis ready to weld in before school starts for my son.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190724/f27cf7dc6a4ab08436b07682d16388ea.jpg

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bdahlg68

04-09-2020, 03:34 PM

Guess it’s almost time for the yearly update! I will say that I have had lots of time in the garage thanks to the shutdown and stay at home order. I sincerely hope everyone in this community is safe and healthy.

Late last summer progress slowed. It was too hot and then quickly too cold in the garage to be productive. But we are back to progressing forward.

UCA mounts are on
Floor is cut out and inner rockers were replaced with 3x3 tube
Body and chassis are tacked together square and level
Started refitting sheet metal - and I must say it fits like garbage.
Bumper mount is designed and laser cut plates are on order

Any suggestions on modifications / perfecting fit on these panels would be much appreciated. I am not afraid of the work / hours - just don’t want to put in a bunch of hours and then screw it up. I am tempted to drop stupid money on original fenders at this point. I feel like the fender is really high near the rear corner at the hood margin. I also seem to have a huge gap at the top of the quarter to doors and no gap at the bottom. Both sides are like this. Not sure if the issue is the door or the quarter. The margin from door to rocker is pretty level.

I will say I took way too much metal off the car to start rather than replacing one panel at a time. Maybe next time I do this I will know better!

On to some pictures. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200409/c1f87e6f37fac9d22691b7a2d1bb6a01.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200409/c8ce0aa98e7b422ce70c9c431bc5a96e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200409/f77f3912e57cb26dd6aee7ae27a6be3f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200409/5c535b630785cc1fbfed59edb17798b3.jpg

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Sonar Chief

04-10-2020, 01:28 PM

Brian ... let me guess, you bought AMD panels? I know cuz the problem areas you are describing are the same ones I came across while trying to fit the ill-fitting panels.

First .... the front fenders being too high back by the cowl/ windshield is due to the idiots that spot welded the outer fender skin to the inner brace [hopefully yours is not this bad]. You can drill out all the spot welds and lower the inner brace to fit higher in the outer skin. Word of caution, do not final weld anything til the fender is back on the car cuz you may need to "lower/slice" the upper fender/cowl bolting mount to get it low enough ... ask me how I know!!

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/1786/99xMBd.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/1315/2VShBz.jpg

Second ... the ill-fitting quarter panels need some help cuz on my AMD quarter they bent the lower rocker panel *90 at the wrong angle. So I cut the angle that supposed to attach to the top of the rocker and fitted the panel and made a new attachment *90 to fit the rocker and keep the door gaps somewhat reasonable. You need to line up the rear with the tail pan lines and the sail panel will fit body lines/ rear window lip and you should be close to OEM fitting.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/921/QxTum6.jpg Looking in from the back where the outer wheelhouse is ... notice the 18 ga sheet metal strip ... fit and then weld!

I hope this helps out ... I ended up re-using my door jambs and butt welded the AMD quarter skin on to the OEM jamb and window lip.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/zVcfgN.jpg
I ended up not using the AMD fenders and had my 53-year-old fenders stripped and I patched them .... mo better now!!!

If you need any other suggestions let me know, I'm not an expert but been there before ... oh and the AMD roof needs help too,lol!

bdahlg68

04-10-2020, 04:09 PM

Thanks a bunch. The problem seems to be primarily on the passenger side. I can measure the height difference relative to the inner fender brace. It seems to be around 0.3” higher which is most of the issue. I was able to get the driver side pretty good. That seems like a lot of spot welds to undo. I am considering looking for an original fender. The fenders also seem to bulge a bit at the body line down the middle of the door. I assume removing the brace helps with that as well? Again this seems worse on the passenger side.

I haven’t retackled the quarters yet. I wish I had gone the patch panel path on the quarters vs the hack job I did removing the door jamb areas.

Driver side:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200410/9de2327c71f67459d543bb1e501dce43.jpg

Passenger Side:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200410/0c24e46373ca859d5407f4d78f52e7b8.jpg

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waynieZ

04-10-2020, 04:45 PM

Amazing work, it seems every set of fenders have their own problem areas.

Sonar Chief

04-10-2020, 05:49 PM

bdahlg68

04-11-2020, 06:02 PM

That's not as bad as mine ... you can always shim the cowl/ wiper panel if needed. I can see where the fender curve doesn't follow the hood and I know for a fact that a BFH and some wood helps in the contour ... ask my trunk lid:poke:

I'm pretty sure it's just a crap passenger side fender (or they are both bad). These came from Classic Industries I believe. Made in Taiwan. The measurement from core support the fender surface is lower on the passenger side by about a quarter inch, and the top side cowl mount it was a quarter inch higher than the driver side. I was able to drill out most of the spot welds and clamped the fender skin down on the bracket and it improved the fit near the cowl a smidge, but not enough.

:EmoteClueless::buttkick:

bdahlg68

04-12-2020, 07:37 PM

Passenger side has been mostly wrestled into position. Quarter panel needs some work still. Door to quarter gap isn’t good. But the rest is ok. Driver side still needs work but it’s also close. I’m using the old worn out hinges on the driver side since I couldn’t get the fit right with the replacements. But I can’t seem to get the door forward enough on the driver side. It feels like I’m getting close to being able to really focus on quarters and then weld them on.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200413/58d40cff35eedb32969c53f21160b580.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200413/dc40d8dd278e014db98e94d49334d80b.jpg

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