68 firebird build

[68firebird]

I'm working on a 1968 firebird. this is my first every build, so I'm learning as I go along. She's been sitting on jackstands in the garage since 2005, the kids are older now so now its time start this project back up. Long story short, I just don't have the space to pull the front clip off, the motor out, and the subframe out, I have a really small garage, but hey it beats working in the rain. oh, and I'm working on a pretty tight budget. progress so far: ( I apologize if the pics are kinda crappy, I use an iphone camera)

the wife was starting to use it as a shelf, didn't like that too much,
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/firebird2.jpg

took the control arms off
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/firebird3.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/firebird4.jpg

took them to work, blasted them, primed and painted them with eastwood chassis paint, installed poly bushings, new ball joints, and new upper shafts.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/upper.jpg

Did the Guldstrand mod to both sides
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/gmod.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/3.jpg

covered up the front end and cleaned the subframe with flap disks, wire brushes, anything that would help me do the job.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/1-2.jpg

painted the top of the wheelhouses since I had the front end masked up
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/fenderwell2.jpg

once the frame was as clean as I could get it, I hit it with a couple coats of eastwood chassis primer then a couple coats of eastwood chassis paint.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/painted.jpg

Now its time for reassembly, just put the control arms on last night on both sides
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/reassembly.jpg

so that's where I'm at right now. I've got hotchkis/bilstein shocks, hotchkis 2 inch lowering springs, global west subframe connectors and solid body mounts, and hotchkis sway bar yet to be installed. I'll be ordering some disk brakes over the next week or two to tie this front end up. More to come....

[waynieZ]

Nice progress. It looks good.

[68firebird]

Hotchkis sway bar finally arrived today, I installed it (after I went to my local gm restoration shop to get the sway bar bushing bolts which I had tossed, thought this came with new bolts), then I just mocked it up on the endlinks for pics. this thing is huge, way bigger than the stock piece.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/swaybar.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/swaybar2.jpg

[Tuske427]

Looking great! It's always good to see a Firebird being built up.

One tip for the next time you paint an engine bay or other irregular surface- use aluminum foil for masking off the areas you want covered. it's cheap (buy the generic) and conforms to many shapes. It can save some time versus wrapping up the paper and reduction in tape. I hope this helps!

[68firebird]

Looking great! It's always good to see a Firebird being built up.

One tip for the next time you paint an engine bay or other irregular surface- use aluminum foil for masking off the areas you want covered. it's cheap (buy the generic) and conforms to many shapes. It can save some time versus wrapping up the paper and reduction in tape. I hope this helps!

That's actually a great tip, I'll use that idea in the future, thanks

[67rstbkt]

Nice progress and welcome to lat-g. I was following your build on p-t as well. Did you have any issues with drilling the holes for the g-mod? I just did it on my 'bird last week and was wondering about the curved section on the rear hole. It gave me a little trouble.....

[68firebird]

Nice progress and welcome to lat-g. I was following your build on p-t as well. Did you have any issues with drilling the holes for the g-mod? I just did it on my 'bird last week and was wondering about the curved section on the rear hole. It gave me a little trouble.....

It went pretty well for me, second side was easier because I used more drills and stepped up more gradually than the first side, other than a drill bit getting caught up here and there it went ok. I think it was more of a pain to cut the old holes off, plus that was the scary part, no turning back after you've cut those bad boys out, LOL. what kind of problems were you having?

Update: as of now, I'm pretty much at a stand still on the front suspension until I get my brakes ordered, which should be within the next two weeks. so I'll direct my attention to the interior until then. I had started changing everything over from that aqua color to black before she went into hibernation. I bought new carpet for the doors, used the primer and paint for interior pieces and what not, started cleaning everything up, etc...... I'll post up some pics of the interior later on tonight of where its at right now.

[67rstbkt]

[QUOTE=68firebird;286005]It went pretty well for me, second side was easier because I used more drills and stepped up more gradually than the first side, other than a drill bit getting caught up here and there it went ok. I think it was more of a pain to cut the old holes off, plus that was the scary part, no turning back after you've cut those bad boys out, LOL. what kind of problems were you having?
QUOTE]

I guess I did not use a very good drill bit to make my pilot hole, because it slipped a little. I was able to get it going in correctly, it just took longer than I thought it would. I'm using Global west upper control arms, so I did not need to cut out the stock holes on mine...:cheers:

[68firebird]

Last night I was able to hang the centerlink, tie rods and sleeves and the steering arms. NOW I have to wait to order brakes, definitely in a holding pattern on the front suspension until then.

I'll focus my attention on the interior for a bit until the brakes come in. 4 years ago this was pretty much how I left it, time to get back at it. I had swapped the aqua colored seats for black ones with some guy I work with. I think I'm gonna use the stock back seat, but use better seats for the front, recaros or something like that. I have been changing the whole interior over from that aqua color to black. all panels have been primed and painted with the GM interior paint, I had started putting the new carpet on the door panels.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/int.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/dash.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/backseat.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/doorpanel.jpg

[68firebird]

Well, I changed my mind with what brakes I'm going with. I was gonna get a complete kit, new spindles, single piston calipers, 11 inch rotors, etc..., but I've decided to go with LS1 brakes off a camaro. I figure it'll be easier to replace pads or rotors in the future this way, as well as it'll stop better with 2 piston calipers. I bought a used set of complete calipers tonight for a good price. so I guess you can say that its an official move at this point, LOL. can't get the pic bigger with it pixelating too much.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/tn-1.jpg

and this is the kit that I'll be buying to do the install.

http://i.ebayimg.com/09/!B,!C-2Q!Wk~$(KGrHgoH-E!EjlLlyKFGBKpZgS8lLQ~~_3.JPG

So I've already blasted, primed and painted the drivers side spindle, I'll do the passengers side tomorrow, and I've looked into a machine shop to turn the hubs a bit so the LS1 rotors will fit over it.

[68firebird]

haven't posted in a month or so. Here's where I'm at:

Suspension is in...

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/bc470cbe.jpg

Disc Brakes are on:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/12866dcb.jpg

These are the rims I'm using, 92 camaro rims, I painted graphite and put some firebird logos.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/4a4f33e9.jpg

started putting the global west solid body mounts in last night, the radiator support ones are being a pain to get the old ones out, I might try and tackle that tonight. also trying to fit tires on this.

[68firebird]

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/e7dc29ae.jpg


Its been a while since I visited and posted progress on this, mainly because its been a while since I worked on the car. money ran dry for a while, so I kinda got disgusted and stopped for a bit. BUT, I've started working on it again!! thanks to my 6 year old daughter for giving me motivation (she wants to go to cruise nights in it, LOL)

back in '10 I had picked up a pair of tires for the camaro rims labeled front, put them on and realized they weren't gonna work.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/c8fbe4ef.jpg

so after figuring a bunch of the backspacing out I though that the front rims would work better in the back and the back rims better in the front with a tad smaller tire on them ( the rims labeled "rear" stuck out to far, so the tire was hitting the lip of the fender) thats where I left off it '10. this past week I ended up picking up a pair of tires off craigslist for $50 to finally see if my theory will work, and I actually think it will. wont' know till I get it on the road, but from how it sits it might just make it.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/79a7eb3f.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/fa015fda.jpg

I'm also needing a new master cylinder since I put disk on the front, hopefully be ordering that in a week or so.

In the meantime, I would really like to get to a cruise night with my daughter this year in this car, so I'm gonna put some new gaskets on and some fresh fluids and start her up. I know its not the prettiest motor out there, but it sure runs good! maybe over the winter I could pull the motor and clean it up and rebuild it. I would love to drop an LS motor in, but on a tight budget that is nearly impossible.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/d5db136f.jpg


OH, and now I need a new low profile jack to get under the car. since it sits so low I can't get my old craftsman under the subframe, LOL.

[geberhard]

Rene great to hear that you are making some progress on the Bird! Aweosme your daughter wants to go for a ride so get the car running :)

[68firebird]

Thanks geberhard.

Engine is going back together, once it's running and the brakes are fully working I'll pull it into the driveway and PowerSpray the bottom half of the motor.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/4b7214db.jpg

[68firebird]

Had the motor running today! Super excited! Just have a few things to fix, like leaky fuel filter, leak at a power steering fitting, and new belts, other than that it's running great, even with the old fuel that was in there. Gotta get the brakes fix ASAP, really gettin the bug now!!!

[Steve68]

good for you, remember a running project car is better than a nonrunning one!!!!

[geberhard]

Rene, awesome progress man, keep it coming!! I need some motivation too :)

[68firebird]

Here's a small clip of it running, i'll post a link up in case the video doesn't show up. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4tj-HRsZKh8

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4tj-HRsZKh8

Also mounted the autometer tach into the stock bezel. I now need to pick up a speedometer for the other side. Also ordered a new fuel filter to replace the leaky one on there now.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/061b6da1.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/2845ab01.jpg

[Ron in SoCal]

Fixed it for ya. Dave and Curtis are too busy today...

4tj-HRsZKh8

[68firebird]

Thank you;)

[68firebird]

Out of curiosity, you guys that use autometer guages in place of stock how do you wire in your turn signal indicator lights? do you just put an LED in and wire to that? same with the high beam indicator? One thing that I am very scared to screw up is the electrical, definitely not in my wheelhouse, and wiring in these guages is got me a bit nervous, LOL.

[68firebird]

small update, got my hotchkis/bilstein shocks in today. also took apart the rear drums to put new shoes and hardware in, but I don't think the drums and wheel cylinders are good enough to use, I'll have to pick some up.

[Steve68]

is that a glass fuel filter, you should replace it, with plastic one,

sounds great, smooth, nice and quiet!!

[68firebird]

is that a glass fuel filter, you should replace it, with plastic one,

sounds great, smooth, nice and quiet!!

Thank you, Yea I already replaced it with an aluminum one by Russell. The glass one had started to leak. It is pretty quiet considering it has headers and a flowmaster exhaust. I have to adjust the carb, exhaust smells like its running rich.

[Steve68]

cool, I've heard of them leaking, I never had it happen to me, but I heard stories, and of course headers and gas don't mix well,

couple of carb adjustment you'll be good, sound good,

like i said in a different post, running project beats a nonrunner, next week I'm going to try t get my Nova running,

[68firebird]

cool, I've heard of them leaking, I never had it happen to me, but I heard stories, and of course headers and gas don't mix well,

couple of carb adjustment you'll be good, sound good,

like i said in a different post, running project beats a nonrunner, next week I'm going to try t get my Nova running,

yep no doubt, the stupidest thing I could have done was take too much of the car apart and not be able to drive it over the last 6 years!! I read a post a few years ago after I discovered the forums, I believe it was by mary pozzi, and she said to never take your car off the road for a length of time, most times it stays off the road, and she was definitely right in my case. Now I've been struggling to get the money and time to put everything back to get it running again. Hoping she'll be at least road worthy by the end of summer to hit a few cruise nights and car shows.

[68firebird]

Just placed a small order with summitracing.com:

5 inch autometer phantom in dash speedometer
2 1/16 inch phantom fuel level guage
2 rear drums.

quick $270 gone LOL.

[Steve68]

when your looking for parts, watch the fourms here and pro-touring, the high rollers let some good stuff go for cheap when there plans change trying to keep up with the Jones,

[68firebird]

when your looking for parts, watch the fourms here and pro-touring, the high rollers let some good stuff go for cheap when there plans change trying to keep up with the Jones,

HAHAHA, I love how you put that!! thanks for the tip!

[68firebird]

summit order will be in thursday night sometime, after that I can put the rear brakes together. last night I started into something I've been not wanting to do, try and fix this mess!!

this is the mess of wires I have to figure out, some of it I know what its from because I had put the 3 gauges in, but I have to put black wire for the negative wiring, I didn't do that on initial install a few years back. The nest behind the radio I have no idea what's what yet.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/5ebd0102.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/0cc16597.jpg

all that was on this pic below was some electrical tape, and it wasn't even a good tape job, kinda scary LOL, and of course of the course of a dozen years the tape started to fall off. I'm not that best at this and I could have done it better the first time around!
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/0206c998.jpg

and there's some wires that I had just thrown some blades on for the gauges a few years back and wedged them on the side of the glass fuses, I have to figure out whats the best wires to splice into for the power to these gauges now that I have a tad more knowledge than I did back then.

should be fun!

Is there a company out there that just makes a blade fuse block to put in place of the glass fuse block? I'd love to get rid of the glass fuses.

[Steve68]

ahhhh, but its true,

I have bought almost everything for my car from here, minus the Ricks Tank, Fikse wheels, and the G-bar rear-end kit,

[Steve68]

you'd have to update the harness, to change the fuse box, just find a switched power wire, and get rid of the wire under the fuses, get yourself some butt connectors and heatshrink, put them together,

[68firebird]

out of curiosity, why would the harness have to be updated?

nothing really too exciting, but I got the rear brakes together, waiting on the drums which come in thursday. still have to order the master cylinder, should be very soon. I wanna pull this out of the garage and into the driveway to do interior work, lighting sucks in the garage!

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/2d9528ec.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/c363ae12.jpg

[instro84]

Out of curiosity, you guys that use autometer guages in place of stock how do you wire in your turn signal indicator lights? do you just put an LED in and wire to that? same with the high beam indicator? One thing that I am very scared to screw up is the electrical, definitely not in my wheelhouse, and wiring in these guages is got me a bit nervous, LOL.

i used leds in my buick with aftermarket gauges in the dash, worker pretty good.

[Steve68]

out of curiosity, why would the harness have to be updated?


I personally dont know a way of intergrating a new style push in fuse box to the old style GM harness,

Since I'm going LSX motor in my car, I'm getting a www.americanautowire.com harness, but that would be down the road for you,

[68firebird]

I'll worry about the fuse block at a later date, I want this on the road by sept.

Ordered gas struts and ball studs today to do the trunk mod that someone linked to me on teamCamaro.com. My torsion bars are crap.

Here's the link to the thread for the gas struts. http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=169354

[Steve68]

I'll worry about the fuse block at a later date, I want this on the road by sept.

Ordered gas struts and ball studs today to do the trunk mod that someone linked to me on teamCamaro.com. My torsion bars are crap.

Great Plan, been doing a little work to my Nova, cleaned up the interior, prepping the floor to fix a couple holes, one is where the 4 spd shifter came thru, add some dynamat xtreme, installing the old carpet, and mounting the Scat Procars, Like to get it running in August, then update to the Wilwoods on the front,

[68firebird]

Great Plan, been doing a little work to my Nova, cleaned up the interior, prepping the floor to fix a couple holes, one is where the 4 spd shifter came thru, add some dynamat xtreme, installing the old carpet, and mounting the Scat Procars, Like to get it running in August, then update to the Wilwoods on the front,

Yes!! sounds great. I'm sick of having this thing sitting in the garage instead of taking it to cruise nights!!! shipment from summit arrives tonight, very excited, LOL.

[Steve68]

and thats what we call "Christmas in July" !!!

[68firebird]

got the speedo and tach in, they look good. I've figured out how to run the led's for the signals, just gotta find the best place for them, not much room here for that, LOL. also got the drums painted and on. The fuel level guage will go in once I get a chance to make a 4 gauge holder. can't seem to find one, the biggest I can find is 3.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/0e37acfe.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/1a6205e9.jpg

[Steve68]

Moving right along!

[68firebird]

ordered my master cylinder and prop valve this morning from performance online. about time!!!!!

finished wiring the dash bezel with the gauges and LED's in, now gotta do under the dash.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/e1a9ce52.jpg

for now It looks like I'll be using the stock seats, have to drop the drivers seat off at an upholsterer and replace the center section cause of a rip.

almost ready to go!!

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/af4854eb.jpg

[geberhard]

Rene looks great! I had not seen the Aman digital guages (top of picture) available yet :) JK, mand looks very clean, how did you install the turn light Led's?

Gui

[68firebird]

Just drilled a hole on the left and right side of the bezel and popped them in. They came in a small enclosure with a resistor already in there. Then just attach the negative to a ground and connect the correct wire from the factory plug to the positive side. I also put an led in for the high beam indicator, but that is installed where the factory one went.

[geberhard]

Awesome thanks, looks very clean. happen to have a pic showing where the wire wil connect to? I am also doing gauges (mine are procomp I believe silver), but pretty similar.

[68firebird]

hope this helps you out. this is the plug that plugs into the printed circuit.

left turn signal is #9, light blue wire
right turn signal is #12, dark blue wire
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/55fb877e.jpg


fuel tank sender is #1, tan wire
instrument lights are on #3, gray wire
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/c270cbde.jpg

[Steve68]

Looks good,

[geberhard]

Rene that is HUGE help thank you!

BTw removd teh LS1 and t56 from the Maro for the bird this weekend what a royal bear it was, over an hour spent fighting with the clutch line :)

[Z06vette]

They have a tool for the quick release fitting. its a pain without it sometimes.. I usually just remove the master & disconnect it from the pedals & leave it attached. I'm doing a 68 bird vert with LS1/4L60 right now. I'm almost done, but have put about 10 miles on it so far. Look forward to watching you progress on the swap!

[68firebird]

Here's a vid of the LEDs working after I wired them in, must have done something right lol.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UACCQ-HWfuM&sns=em

I probably did the video wrong, so here's the link.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UACCQ-HWfuM&sns=em

PS, what am I doing wrong for the vids not to show up properly?

[geberhard]

... I usually just remove the master & disconnect it from the pedals & leave it attached. I'm doing a 68 bird vert with LS1/4L60 right now. I'm almost done, but have put about 10 miles on it so far. Look forward to watching you progress on the swap!


Winner! That is what I ended up doing, still pretty tight space to push through firewall but worked in less than 10 minutes ugh! Have a link for the build?


Rene, LED's look sweeet!!!!

[FETorino]

Click on the green film strip icon

It gives you a pair of UTUBE in [UT].

Paste the end of your address after the = sign (in your case, UACCQ-HWfuM&sns=em) in between the [UT][UT]

UACCQ-HWfuM&sns=em

[68firebird]

thank you Rob!!

[Steve68]

oooohh ahhhhh, nice colors!!

[Stilo]

Nice bird

[68firebird]

K Guys, I really need some help. Got my master cylinder and prop valve in today, supposedly this is supposed to fit my car, but the prop valve hits the fender well bracket. I'm thinking I'm gonna have to fab up some kind of bracket, is this the best idea? nothing ever goes easy!!!!!! I also need new brake lines, as these all connect in a different spot compared to the last prop valve.

can this prop valve be turned and mounted with the side facing down? thats the way the original one was. Please help!!!!!!!!

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/d0423efb.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/e56d4f10.jpg

Would it be ok to mount the prop valve like this? I don't know if mounting it differently effects performance.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/bfe8526f.jpg

[geberhard]

Rene,

I normally skip the prop valve bracket altogether.

Gui

[Z06vette]

I'm using a booster on my 69 camaro & 68 bird so the prop is a lot farther forward. I've havent seen that master used right up on the firewall before. Maybe do a little tube bending to get the bend closer to the master? I bent a few of my lines so they would line up with the master. The prop bracket was a pain to use but I bent the lines to mate up to it. Scott

[68firebird]

Rene,

I normally skip the prop valve bracket altogether.

Gui

you just let the lines hold it in place?

[68firebird]

I'm using a booster on my 69 camaro & 68 bird so the prop is a lot farther forward. I've havent seen that master used right up on the firewall before. Maybe do a little tube bending to get the bend closer to the master? I bent a few of my lines so they would line up with the master. The prop bracket was a pain to use but I bent the lines to mate up to it. Scott

this master supposedly works with manual brakes, in fact they say that because it has a 1 inch bore that it makes the manual brakes feel pretty good. I'm feeling kind of deflated at the moment. I was really hoping for a simple plug and play kind of thing, but what was I thinking!!

[68firebird]

I found a spot for the valve, now I have to wait for a buddy to come over and bend and flare new line

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/5b97ea34.jpg

[Z06vette]

That should work. I'm sure its fine with manual brakes. My bore might be different- it just looks identical to mine. Let us know how it turns out.

[68firebird]

Ok, got the lines bent and flared, that's all set. I start to "bench" bleed the brakes on the car and the rod is making a clunking sound now, looks like the rod is too short. I re-used the rod hat was on the last master cylinder. Also noticed that the brake doesn't come in contact with the brake light switch now too.

Edit: you think this will solve my problem? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/SSBC-Universal-Adjustable-Master-Cylinder-Pushrod-Kit,50351.html

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Product/91001726_L.jpg

[68firebird]

Ok, I orderd up the above mentioned pushrod, hopefully that solves my problem.

[geberhard]

Rene,

I have in the past modified my stock rods depending on application. What MC are you using again and booster?

Gui

[68firebird]

Ok, got the adjustable pushrod in yesterday and got it installed. still had the clunking problem, it ended up being the cap that goes onto the master cylinder that the pushrod passes through, I'm thinking to keep it in place, well there are reliefs on the top and bottom for the pushrod to easily move through at angles, but I had the reliefs going side to side, which didn't allow the pushrod to get the angle it needed. I finally removed the boot that was covering it to figure it out. I can't believe I took that damn thing off about 6 times, and each time I put it on the wrong way. Doesn anyone even know what that cap is called?

anyway, got that fixed FINALLY, and got the master cylinder bled. I'm now waiting for a friend to come over and help me bleed all four corners.

on a side note, I will be working diligently tonight and tomorrow replacing the plenum pan and gasket on the 5.9 in my Ram. so no firebird work this weekend.

[68firebird]

I NEED HELP, cause I'm getting very aggravated! I bench bled the master cylinder, bent new lines to the prop valve, and hooked it all up. now I'm onto bleeding the brakes. I'm starting at the passenger rear. I borrowed a buddies nice mac tools one man bleeder, the kind you hook a air compressor to. I CAN NOT get a good amount of fluid to come out. its basically a very small amount of fluid with a **** ton of air bubbles, then I get nothing, this thing should be draining my master cylinder, and its not. WTF could be the problem.

[geberhard]

Rene, tried traditional method? Also are you running a prop valve, and are you keeping an eye on the MC fluid level? Note you are going to get a lot of air out until the lines are full.

I normally do traditional two person bleeding. Did you also bleed the MC on a bench or on the car?

Gui

[68firebird]

Rene, tried traditional method? Also are you running a prop valve, and are you keeping an eye on the MC fluid level? Note you are going to get a lot of air out until the lines are full.

I normally do traditional two person bleeding. Did you also bleed the MC on a bench or on the car?

Gui

I tried traditional by myself, water bottle filled with fluid and a hose into it, with the same results. I am keeping an eye on the fluid level, it doesn't really seem to budge. I bench bled the master in the car. I must have screwed something up. Very frustrated!!!

[geberhard]

How does the pedal feel when pressed, drops to floor fast, or holds some pressure\spongy?

What MC are you using again? And no prop valve or residual valve correct?

on the MC bleed on the car did you use an old line back to reservoir and pumpd until no more bubbles?

I would start by checking at the MC seems could be the culprit.

[68firebird]

How does the pedal feel when pressed, drops to floor fast, or holds some pressure\spongy?

What MC are you using again? And no prop valve or residual valve correct?

on the MC bleed on the car did you use an old line back to reservoir and pumpd until no more bubbles?

I would start by checking at the MC seems could be the culprit.

Doesn't seem to get spongy, even with bleed valves closed. pedal never seems to build pressure, and I don't see or hear any leak. I do have a proportioning valve, its a regular gm style MC and prop valve from performanceonline.com. I did use line back to the reservoir and pumped till no more bubbles, but it took me forever to get the lines bent properly that go to the prop valve, so I wonder if me screwing the fittings in and taking them off so many times that i have to re-bleed it again.

Got me thinking, when I first attempted to bleed the brakes, there was a leak around the line from the back reservoir to the prop valve, and i had tried pushing the pedal up and down for a few minutes before I realized it, I wonder if I loaded air back in the MC every time I released the pedal. I'll try bleeding the MC again tonight and see if thats the problem.

[kramey]

I dont see any pictures of the m/c and combination valve plumbed complete, you might have the lines plumbed incorrectly, sometimes these things are just stubborn to bleed, I have found that a large plastic syringe with a hose stuck on the end pushing fluid from the caliper to the m/c works great for getting air out, just make sure you are not pushing more air in, but first make sure you have the right lines going to the front and rear on the m/c, it happens more times than you think.

[68firebird]

ok, my buddy came over and we had great success!! LOL. I just have to bend a new line from the front of the MC to the prop valve tomorrow, it was leaking just a bit. otherwise, I had a nice solid pedal after a 2 man bleeding.

[Steve68]

Congrats, I was going to comment, but I thought I'd let you go for round 2,

[68firebird]

So I got the brakes done and was going to attempt taking the car around the block. I got it out of the garage and up the street, but there was some banging or clunking sounds going on in the front end, I was going really slow too, I don't think I got over 10 mph. I'm thinking I have to make sure everything is tight again. I also haven't greased anything under there yet. Just another setback, thats the way this entire thing has been. right when you think you might be that close to getting it on the road, I have to take 2 steps back. but I was able to get it out and stop it, LOL.

yes I know the ass end is high, I haven't lowered that yet. gotta get the kinks worked out with the front before anything else.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/1199fe9b.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/b4edb89a.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/a93783d1.jpg

[Spiffav8]

Hey it's almost there! Totally normal to have a few issues to iron out. Even the big budget builds go through a shake down period. I'm jealous of the fun that's just around the corner for you.

:captain:

[Mr.Vintage]

They say it takes 90% of your time for the last 10% of project......;)

[68firebird]

I've got an appt next thursday with my mechanic to do an alignment and for him to find the friggan sound in the front end, I can't seem to find it. I'm also gonna see if he can tune the motor in, its studdering when you hit the gas, I can't seem to fix that either. oh well, off to the professionals.

[68firebird]

under the hood was pretty ugly lookin, so I power washed, cleaned, and rattle canned it today, came out decent, not perfect, but waaaaaay better than what it looked like.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/B88C0C0E-3979-4379-ACBC-573C36955921-5351-0000017C5B7386D0.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/0632BDB3-BBC4-4473-9EC2-E1B7899CA8C1-5351-0000017C6338EF80.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/32E23DD1-3228-4746-889B-9F9E38E525A9-5351-0000017C6B7482D3.jpg

[Steve68]

Nice clean and white!! looks good, have you been out driving around??

is it starting to cool down up there yet?? I was born in CT, love the change of seasons, not like what we have here!!!

[68firebird]

Nice clean and white!! looks good, have you been out driving around??

is it starting to cool down up there yet?? I was born in CT, love the change of seasons, not like what we have here!!!

I haven't been driving it yet steve, she goes in this week for an alignment and other assorted tweaks. hopefully I can get it to a few cruise nights before they all shut down. Its still in the mid 70's to mid 80's around here, humidity has been high so it feels hotter than it actually is. My wife and I have been tossing the idea of moving down south, maybe more towards the myrtle beach, SC area, but we have a bunch of family who have retreated down to florida. Taxes are just killing us up here!!! Once I register the bird I'm gonna have to pay propety tax on it every year!!!!! rediculous on a car this old.

[Steve68]

Why property tax???

we pay taxes on a car when we register it, again, and then a registration fee every year,

and our state was in a deficit in the tune of 7.2 million or billion, can't remember which, because the amount of people leaving the state to find jobs else where, so they raise the rate of everything state, liscense's, tags, anything you can think of, by almost 50%, it sucks,

[68firebird]

Ok, she's at my mechanic today, hopefully I goes well! She drove pretty good down there at least hahaha. Also having them install my global west subframe connectors.

Question, I have a Chevy small block in it, stock heads and internals, performer intake and performer 600 CFM carb. I was given a brand new performer rpm intake to use, but the lowes CFM recommendation for it is 750. Will it be counter productive to swap the rpm intake on with the 600 CFM carb? Or will this work and there will just be a bit of power loss?

[Steve68]

leave the performer, the RPM, would work better for a cam change,

[68firebird]

Got her home, rides much better now. the clunking sound ended up being the inside wheel weight hitting the tie rod, harder when the wheels were cut of course, the rims are extremely close to the tie rod, so the rims will have to get replaced soon. they were temporary anyways, but might be forced to get some earlier.

[68firebird]

Ok, took the car for a nice ride around the neighborhood today, rides pretty darn good. but the smell, its god awful. I started to think that it may not be running rich, it might be burning oil. so I pulled all the plugs this afternoon and ALL of them were oil fouled, oil all the way up the threads on most. Is it possible that the rings are bad on every piston? or could it be leaking in from the cylinder head? how would I check?

[Steve68]

compression test and a leak down test,

Let it sits over night, then start it, does it pour out smoke when you start it?? that would be valve seals or guides,

Smoking all the time while running could be severly worn guides or rings,

now its time to delvulge a little info on the motor, age wear, was it beat on, ever rebuilt, by who,

time to look into it!!

[68firebird]

compression test and a leak down test,

Let it sits over night, then start it, does it pour out smoke when you start it?? that would be valve seals or guides,

Smoking all the time while running could be severly worn guides or rings,

now its time to delvulge a little info on the motor, age wear, was it beat on, ever rebuilt, by who,

time to look into it!!

thanks steve. I'm actually unaware of the year of the motor, it was in the car when I bought it and I've never removed it. I believe it to be an early 80's 305 or 350 out of an IROC. At least that's what I was told it was 11 years ago. It actually doesn't really pour out smoke at all, it just quickly comes out in short bursts out the tailpipes, doesn't look like I'm trying to keep the mosquitoes at bay, LOL. Talked to my mechanic today and he suggested to actually get some mileage on it over the next week or two and see if the seals and all start to swell up on their own, he figures this since it sat for so long without being started. I'll do an oil change and go this route and see what happens.

[68firebird]

I'm not gonna be able to afford the lowering leaf springs for the rear at the moment, so I've decided to use lowering blocks until I can afford it, are there any brand of blocks out there that anyone can recommend? I know they aren't a recommended lowering option, but it will be temporary until I can get the $450 up for the hotchkis leafs. thanks

Oh, and also is there a set of headers that fit a small block chevy that tuck up closer to the floor of F-bodies? the drivers side header collector flange hangs low and is about an inch and a half off the ground now and the rear isn't lowered yet, I've already scrapped the flange during a ride.

[68firebird]

Here's a comparison of the stance when it went into hibernation and when it finally came out.

Before:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/694838453.jpg

After:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/6BC06579-66B5-4E2D-95C6-F7D73072159C-12496-0000042C4DD9F912.jpg

[geberhard]

Rene, go with alum lowering blocks, some have a degree adjustment already built in so your pinion angle does not get impacted. I do not see any issues with lowering blocks, and a good way to dial things up. I am seeing guys here buying different sets of leaf springs all the time because they either sat too high or too low, so the blocks will definitely be a inexpensive and easy option to dial in stance until you swap your springs. Also note there are steel blocks that can be tack welded on the mounts if you chose to stick with blocks.

[68firebird]

Thank you for the advice gerberhard! will keep that all in mind

taking the day off tomorrow and getting her insured and registered!!!!! might just make it to a cruise night before they all stop after all!

[68firebird]

registered and insured the bird on friday. took it for a ride yesterday and the smoking problem seems to have gotten really worse in just a few miles. It was pinging, then when I came to a stop light it would smoke for a bit, then taper down, but it really smelt bad. I'm gonna have to pull the heads off and check them out.

[Steve68]

try some engine Restore, cant hurt,

whats the pinging from, is the timing screwed up, carb running to rich, is it oil smoke or unburnt fuel???

I dont think pulling the heads will help till you figure out what it is,

[68firebird]

try some engine Restore, cant hurt,

whats the pinging from, is the timing screwed up, carb running to rich, is it oil smoke or unburnt fuel???

I dont think pulling the heads will help till you figure out what it is,

I'm not sure steve, it wasn't pinging at first, then started, when it started pinging thats when I noticed it would smoke alot from the back for a few seconds when I came to a stop, and it smelt like burnt oil extremely bad. I have no idea what it is. :mad: I'm thinking its the valve seals, because I never had these problems before it went into the garage. :rolleyes:

[Steve68]

before you get crazy and pull the heads, do a compression test, and check the plugs again,

and you can change the seals without pulling the heads, get the cylinder on TDC, fill the cylinder full of air, use a long arm tool, or small spring compressor then pull the spring and replace the seal reassemble and repeat!!!

[68firebird]

Well after some investigating last night, I've got some very small amounts of antifreeze leaking from the rear of the head gasket on the drivers side onto the back of the motor. I wipe it off and a small amount starts streaming down again. I haven't checked the pass side, but either way both heads will have to come off. might as well get a small valve job done and freshen the heads up while they are off.

[Steve68]

and that right there Rene, is a reason to pull the heads!!!!

[68firebird]

Look what poured out of the collector after i unbolted it

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/FCBCD8B0-C016-4CF0-B530-ABE3481FD09C-1940-000001A576048947_zpsc7c60aad.jpg

Looked like it was mostly at cylinder 5

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/4E765B9A-C452-4C60-9012-A198DCA97926-1940-000001A58F7285A9_zps0efc8be5.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/416C97CE-2AFE-40E8-8756-66C8197F28F1-1940-000001A5A3B597D3_zpsed139cbb.jpg

I might just get new head gaskets and valve seals but leave the rest of the head alone. I've got a 350 4 bolt block that's been laying around that I should start building up. Thanks for your replies Steve, you seem to be the only one giving advice lol

[geberhard]

Rene ouch, that is definitely not a good sign. new gaskets, etc, and then do a compression check, also any oil on the coolant (on radiator)?

Gui

[68firebird]

Rene ouch, that is definitely not a good sign. new gaskets, etc, and then do a compression check, also any oil on the coolant (on radiator)?

Gui

thanks Gui, yea, all new gaskets are gonna go in, new valve seals too while the heads are out, then I'll do a compression check. I didn't see any oil at all in the coolant. Hopefully the head gaskets were my only problem. I'm hoping to find the extra cash this week to buy what I need to get her back together quickly, we'll see what the wife allows, LOL.

[Steve68]

I might just get new head gaskets and valve seals but leave the rest of the head alone. I've got a 350 4 bolt block that's been laying around that I should start building up. Thanks for your replies Steve, you seem to be the only one giving advice lol


Been there done that, got my first camaro when I was 16, tried to get my buddy to buy it, but he and his dad didn't want it, so I asked how much, long story short, ended up buying it for $600, tightened up the converter bolts and drove it for 2 years!!! been through all kinds of ordeals with my cars,

my favorite, was how all of a sudden my 327 developed a skip, did everything I could think of, ended up being a bad pushrod, the top end was missing .125 off the tip!!!!, have no idea!!!


Glad I could help through the keyboard!!!!

[68firebird]

Got mostly everything I need to put it all back together. New head gaskets, new head bolts, new valve seals, new gaskets for intake and exhaust, and a new 10 in. air cleaner ( the new rpm manifold is taller so the 14 inch would hit the hood bracing at the back). Valve seals on one head complete. Have to pick up a heater hose fitting for the new intake tomorrow and of course an oil filter and oil as well as coolant. Hoping to get time to get it back together by the weekend.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/965F32F5-DC80-4C4A-AD27-87F065745F84-6199-000005085C830817.jpg

[68firebird]

Small steps. heads are back on.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/8BF1CD62-3DE7-4F11-AAF3-F59195C0054F-7748-000006A57ECB5E01.jpg

And new intake is ready to go too.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/FBD47931-32B8-45F1-B1A9-F1F78789E79D-7748-000006A58B33B518.jpg

[68firebird]

got the motor buttoned up, just need to set the valve lash, I haven't done it yet because I never have and I'm a tad nervous LOL.

also installed lowering blocks in the back. I had to use a small spacer to move the wheel out a tad or else the the shock mount on the lower perch would be hitting the inner part of the rim. I don't have the proper backspacing yet, so I have to do it this way until fund roll in for proper stuff. The spacer is 5/16, I could probably get away with a smaller one, and most likely will so my lugs get more of a bit on the studs. I can't wait to get it out of the garage and see what it looks like. (and yes, I don't have the outside u-bolts in yet, I have to make the upper holes a bit bigger so the threaded part goes in the lower perch easier, I had to find my bigger drill for that, which I just found)

oh, and I definitely need to get some shorty headers now, measurement from ground to flange (or bottom of the header for that matter) is just under 2.5 inches on the drivers side. I just keep opening more and more cans of worms here.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/168A99FE-84B8-44DF-866D-A8923CBC9549-13225-00000B4963A41D20.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/BDC95863-D417-4242-B5B1-F9C4A037CB9C-13225-00000B495B501C41.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/347327DA-0CE2-4B0A-8C4F-3E9BCD5E9474-13225-00000B48CE74F681.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/0CBEA1A9-A598-47E1-A7D9-FF818FAD580D-13225-00000B48E42F9D55.jpg

[Steve68]

progress!!! looking good, lash is no big deal!! you can do it,

[68firebird]

well, I finished installing the blocks last night, so thats done, then I tried doing my valve lash adjustment, which didn't go so good. Now its running like a total piece of doggy doo doo. I must have tightened them too much. so tomorrow I'll back them all off and tighten each nut down to 13 turns like I originally did when it seemed to run fine.

[68firebird]

re-adjusted the rocker nuts last night and it still runs very bad, basically what I did last night changed nothing. Actually it doesn't run at all. doesn't want to start. I spray starting fluid in the carb it starts but runs extremely rough, almost violently. I'm wondering if somehow I screwed the timing up, but I don't know how I would have done that, I never pulled the distributer out to do the valve lash adjustment!!! I'm stumped. If anybody has any input it would be greatly appreciated, as I'm ready to beat the fenders in with a hammer!!!!!

[ma73z]

I'd verify you had your distributor dropped back in right, verify your plug wires are on correct cyl. and re-adjust your valves.

On the valves being a rookie just do one cyl. at a time. turn the engine over when the int. starts to open adjust the exh. valve, when the exh. starts to close do the int. Take out the free play between the pushrod and rocker then give it like a turn more.

[68firebird]

Got her out of the garage today, I think I've got the valves decent, might need a tad more adjusting, I'll drive it a bit then do another adjustment.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/1BDD230D-AC36-4E2A-ABB9-47E1C8853642-4068-000003AF6E410A6E.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/DC72D9D5-A704-4BC7-BA22-5977878BACB6-4068-000003AF68C07F11.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/5786ED0F-3622-4AC5-840A-00DA408D5227-4068-000003AF62D4AF70.jpg

[Steve68]

so, you got the valves right, and everythings OK?? been driving it??

[68firebird]

so, you got the valves right, and everythings OK?? been driving it??
there is a small hesitation if I get on the throttle hard from idle, might be timing or carb issue, I've been fighting that for a while, and I think I need to have the alignment double checked, but everything else seems pretty good. I drove it a bit around the neighborhood this weekend (I was on watch my child duty this weekend haha). Was gonna take it to work today, but of course 60% chance of rain all day. maybe tomorrow.

[68firebird]

Please help!!!! brake problems.

I've got LS1 brakes on the front of my firebird, I've got a new disc/drum master and prop valve, I have finally taken the car for a few rides and the front brakes stay locked, its happened the last 2 times I've taken the car out. I THINK that the calipers release after the car sits. It did it to me on friday night, sat all weekend till today and it did it again, raised the front of the car and can't spin either wheel. the back wheels seem to spin freely. any ideas?

[geberhard]

Rene,

Are you using a prop valve or anything? Did you do ls all arond? Also did you use any spacers on the front or just flat plates to mount the caliper? Any pictures? Are the rear brakes locking when tires are lifted and spun by hand and brakes pressed?

Gui

[68firebird]

Rene,

Are you using a prop valve or anything? Did you do ls all arond? Also did you use any spacers on the front or just flat plates to mount the caliper? Any pictures? Are the rear brakes locking when tires are lifted and spun by hand and brakes pressed?

Gui

yes I'm using prop valve, both master and prop valve are made for disc/drum setup. rear has stock drums. no spacers on the front, just the flat plates. the rear brakes are not locking while the front are. as far as the rear spinning while the brakes are pressed, can't try the just yet, need a helper for that.

[geberhard]

rene, any way to lift the rear (safelly!!!) and drive then press brakes?

It could be residual or prop valve issue. I would gut or disconnect and see if that is the problem.

What MC are you using?

[68firebird]

This is what I'm using.

http://www.performanceonline.com/Disc-brake-Master-Cylinder-Proportioning-Valve-Kit-18817/

[geberhard]

Rene, have you tried just unbolting slightly the two bolts holding the MCto the firewall to see if your push rod is making too much contact with the MC? May be a simple troubleshoot approach, but I know on a 67 vert I had, when swapped the MC (supposedly same part number), the MC piston surface was closer to the rod.

Was hard to tell but the push rod was engaging the MC enough. I removd, adjusted the pushrod length turning it, and problem resolved.

Gui

[68firebird]

I haven't worked on the brakes at all since my question Gui, but since I've received many responses stating that the pushrod length is too long, thats what I'll assume it is at the moment. The reason I haven't checked on it is she is most likely in the garage now for the winter and I'm now thinking about putting a booster in.

If I put a booster in what size, 9 inch, 11 inch, does it matter? anything that I need to do to change over to the power booster or simply hook the booster in between and hood a vacuum hose up? any info would be greatly appreciated, and if you have any links to a recommended booster please post. thank you.

[geberhard]

Rene, one more area to check;do you have pics of your caliper mounting bracket for the fornt? Please note a LOT of people (including myself) bought wrong brackets and that wa spart of the issue. Some adapter brackets sell as LS (Camaro\Firebird) swap brackets when they are Corvette (C5) brackets. The caliper swill work, however the rotor and contact patch will be off.

Gui

[Steve68]

Rene, you get the brakes figured out???

[68firebird]

no steve, but I'm assuming it was I had the pushrod a tad too long. Last thing I did was take the pushrod out, I've yet to get back and work on it. I'm a bit disgusted at this point, my tranny is leaking like crazy from somewhere too. so its in the garage for the winter, when I feel like working on it I'll work on it. I'm the kind of person that when I get disgusted I don't even feel like touching it. Lucky I haven't sold the damn thing yet. thanks for asking.

[Steve68]

now's the best time to work on it, you can go out there and tinker here and there,

dont get discouraged!!!!

[68firebird]

Not many updates, as I really didn't touch it over the winter, of course due to money and time. I installed longer rear wheel studs (was barely getting a bite on the stock ones with a small spacer in) and a new single piece brake pushrod, hopefully its set to the right length and my calipers won't lock up. I'll take her for a ride this weekend and give it a try.

also, I need to get some new belts for the back seat, I want to start taking my kids for rides, and I would prefer them not to use the 40+ year old belts. Who makes some good belts that you can recommend. they don't have to be GM either. has anyone converted the rear to use 3 point in the rear? if so how did you do it and what supplier did you use? thanks for any help.

[68firebird]

I put the new brake rod in at the proper length and it seems as though my calipers locking up has been fixed!!! I went for a nice long ride yesterday and everything went well! time to start enjoying it and taking it to some cruise night/car shows. The interior and stuff isn't done, but I don't really care at this point after having this sitting on blocks in my garage for 6+ years! plus I'm excited to take my kids out with me in it.

[68firebird]

alright, I went out a few times this weekend with the wife and my 2 kids. I've come to the realization that the car is just too low for the whole fam to be in it, SO, I've got some 1/2in coil spring spacers from global west coming in on Thursday. Hopefully will be enough to raise her up a bit but still look good. I hope I can get them installed Thursday night without issue, I already made an appt in Friday for an alignment!

I also wanted to try something different with all the chrome on the car, wanted to flat black all of it. I tried the front bumper first, what do you guys think!? Like or no like?

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/530A555E-F1AF-42AD-A9CD-D28EC60D60EF-28641-000006C3D041D5D2_zpscada486c.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/7541A83A-2172-406E-9686-0EA229546EFD-28641-000006C42390D928_zpsc9d72e5d.jpg

[geberhard]

really dig the satin black nose!!! I was going to suggest, on the chrome window trim, you can use plasti-dip. It coms out perfect in a satin black, and if you do not like it you can peel it off. I used that on my 400 grille inserts and window trim came out great. Also great to use on the rear 6 "gills".

Gui

[68firebird]

really dig the satin black nose!!! I was going to suggest, on the chrome window trim, you can use plasti-dip. It coms out perfect in a satin black, and if you do not like it you can peel it off. I used that on my 400 grille inserts and window trim came out great. Also great to use on the rear 6 "gills".

Gui

actually Gui, the nose is painted with plasti-dip! I wanted to see what it looked like with the nose like that, so I went that route of plasti dip for the reason you put, if I didn't like it I can peel it off. so far I've gotten good feedback from it so I think I'll go ahead and do the rear bumper and the rest of the trim. I'd like to eventually get the bumpers permanently done.

[geberhard]

rene I definitely dig it!! You did an awesome job on the plasti dip, looks very uniform and no run on the pics, I would say go for it :)

[68firebird]

well, just when I thought all was going good, BAM!!! not just yet. I put some global west spacers under the front springs because it was just sitting too low for numerous reasons. Dropped it off at my local shop to do an alignment, and he says he can't do the alignment cause the rear springs are weak and the car is sagging towards the pass side. so I get authorization from the wife to get the leaf springs and all the associated parts to do the job. just completed the job and the damn thing is still leaning to the pass side. I measured up by the back of the subframe and the pass side measurement is 5 3/8 in and the drivers side is 6 2/16 in. this is on the garage floor which seems pretty darn flat. I'm kinda lost on what to do now. don't know if my subframe is tweaked or even what to do if it is. Just don't have the cash or room to be doing that at this point. I'm VERY aggravated at this point. :rolleyes:

[geberhard]

rene,

I have seen birds with pass sitting lower, I think my 68 sat slightly lower on teh pass side, but possibly saggy springs.

Have you tried putting the car on jackstands supporting both on the tub and measuring to ground, and then support on rear axle and measure to ground from the spring attachment points? Could be something simple like your front spring mounts wacked, rear shackle mounts wacked, or something more complex like a tweaked body?

Good luck!

[Z06vette]

I didnt go back & reread your thread, but check the front height as well. If the front is higher on one side it can throw the rear off. There are different sized global west spacers, you may be able to correct it somewhat by mixing/match front spacers if its off in the front. This is fairly common on these cars. I have used spacers on front & rear on cars in the past to get them level side to side. I prefer to measure from the floor to the top of the fenders on all 4 corners. I have also found that stick edger blades (i own a landscape company) are great spacers for the rear leaf springs. The are the perfect length & have a hole in the middle for the locating stud. I paint them black, and stack them if needed to get the desired height. Plus they will slide in the perch without having to take everything apart, just losen the u bolt nuts & pry up on the rear end. Scott

[68firebird]

I didnt go back & reread your thread, but check the front height as well. If the front is higher on one side it can throw the rear off. There are different sized global west spacers, you may be able to correct it somewhat by mixing/match front spacers if its off in the front. This is fairly common on these cars. I have used spacers on front & rear on cars in the past to get them level side to side. I prefer to measure from the floor to the top of the fenders on all 4 corners. I have also found that stick edger blades (i own a landscape company) are great spacers for the rear leaf springs. The are the perfect length & have a hole in the middle for the locating stud. I paint them black, and stack them if needed to get the desired height. Plus they will slide in the perch without having to take everything apart, just losen the u bolt nuts & pry up on the rear end. Scott

Z06-Oddly enough the front seems to only be off by a quarter of an inch. Thanks for the tip on the stick edger blades too, great to know!

GUI-thanks for the good advice as usual!!

[68firebird]

Well, oddly enough its been a year since I last posted, HOLY CRAP! anyway, not much going on as far as working on the car, just really small stuff. I've actually been driving it quite a bit this year, a couple cruise nights, to work, etc..... So I'm really just enjoying driving it around for a bit.

Here's a shot of my son and I after a cruise night at the end of last cruise season. My kids really enjoy driving around in it, which makes me happy hahaha.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q94/rayndog/FIREBIRD1_zps79124e01.jpg (http://s134.photobucket.com/user/rayndog/media/FIREBIRD1_zps79124e01.jpg.html)

[geberhard]

Rene the bid is looking great, good stance as well!

[Chiva]

Still driving the bird?