Oil cooler question

[J-440]

Was reading another post about oil coolers and a member stated that a MINIMUM oil line diameter should be some -10 lines. Well, if the oil passages in the block are 3/8 I.D. (-6), then what would the purpose of having bigger lines going from the pump, to the cooler, then back to the motor be? I'm looking at adding around 4 feet total of line routing the cooler so what would the bigger lines do for me?

[Vegas69]

Anytime fluid travels it creates friction. -10 is the minimum. If they get to long you need to go -12.

[camcojb]

Was reading another post about oil coolers and a member stated that a MINIMUM oil line diameter should be some -10 lines. Well, if the oil passages in the block are 3/8 I.D. (-6), then what would the purpose of having bigger lines going from the pump, to the cooler, then back to the motor be? I'm looking at adding around 4 feet total of line routing the cooler so what would the bigger lines do for me?
let me just add to what Todd just said. I remember in the 70's they came out with these remote oil filter setups, and everyone who was cool was buying them. The original kits (at least some of them) came with 3/8" i.d. lines, and guys were spinning bearings and trashing motors with them. They then upped the lines to 1/2" minimum, and myself personally use #12's.........

Jody

[GregWeld]

Remember too.... the cooler itself is nothing but a big restriction.

[CamaroAJ]

so why did GM only go with 1/2" lines on the C6Z?

since i already have the main line part with the thermostat in it can i go from the -8 adapters on it to -12 or is -8 ok to run on the LS1 engine?

[CarlC]

A -10 AN hose fitting likely has a diameter very close to a 1/2" hose.

[CamaroAJ]

IIRC -6 is 3/8", -8 is 1/2" and -10 should be 5/8"

[J-440]

I also have a 3 quart Accusump plumbed into the high pressure side at the back of the block. Would this make up for the smaller lines?
I just don't get it. The entire oiling system passages in the block, heads, pump, and cooler are 3/8 passages. Why would -10 lines (some very short lines by the way) make a difference in friction?

[Vegas69]

No......

[Blake Foster]

so why did GM only go with 1/2" lines on the C6Z?

since i already have the main line part with the thermostat in it can i go from the -8 adapters on it to -12 or is -8 ok to run on the LS1 engine?

if it were me, i would get rid of the thermostat and find one with -12 fittings.if not leave it out of the system, unless your in the artic?? even the filter mount shold have -12 fittings.
it is all about less restriction ,as Greg said you are adding a ton of restriction to the system and you really need to reduce it any place you can, even the fittings you use are important do not use brass 90 deg fittings, i'm no plumber but if i remember correctly every 90deg bend reduces flow by 25% and use a good cooler like a Earls or Setrab ( setrab makes the earls ones)
i am just in the process of putting my cooler system together today.

[J-440]

Ok, ya'll are the pros. I'll order the correct fittings and thanks again.:D

[GregWeld]

:woot: :woot:

Buffaloed another one!


:rofl:

[CamaroAJ]

if it were me, i would get rid of the thermostat and find one with -12 fittings.if not leave it out of the system, unless your in the artic?? even the filter mount shold have -12 fittings.
it is all about less restriction ,as Greg said you are adding a ton of restriction to the system and you really need to reduce it any place you can, even the fittings you use are important do not use brass 90 deg fittings, i'm no plumber but if i remember correctly every 90deg bend reduces flow by 25% and use a good cooler like a Earls or Setrab ( setrab makes the earls ones)
i am just in the process of putting my cooler system together today.

but then you run the risk of keeping your oil temp under 200* which is something you don't want to do.

for the money i have in this cooler adapter ($16) i would really like to use it. it was off a '07 Z06. i just cut the rubber lines off of it and installed -8 hard line adapers.

i don't use brass fittings so we are good there.

[Vegas69]

My Zl-1 block from GM Racing has -10 receptables. I was going to use -12 until I found that out. I had no room for adapters and a -10 to -12 adapter fitting wouldn't clear the block recess. I would've needed to turn down the hex. My engine builder said -10 was fine if the hoses were kept reasonable length. I'm plumbed from the oil pump, through my heat exchanger, then back into the block through the filter. That's how GM racing recommended. The cooler is -12 with -10 adapters.

As far as oil temp goes. Even with a 180 stock coolant t stat I can't get any oil temp in the engine until I cruise stop light to stop light for some time. I have close to 10 qts of oil in this thing and it does a great job cooling the engine. I was hoping the heat exhanger in the radiator would warm up the oil but it seems to cool the coolant when cruising down the freeway. When I get into traffic then it works perfect with coolant temps around 180-190 and oil temps 10-20 degrees warmer. I found on the race track at el toro that coolant temps would be about 190-195 and oil temps of 235-240. The minute I got to my cool down lap the oil temp dropped to 210 before I got back to the pits. Again, I'm prepared for worst case scenario. For me, that's road racing for 15-20 minute intervals with countless pulls over 6500 rpm. It's probably a little to much oil in the system for a lazy Sunday afternoon cruise. That's ok, I'll change the oil a little more frequent and make sure I get some heat in the engine when I drive it.

[GregWeld]

You'll just have to race more on the streets...