69 AMC Javelin Project [Archive]

Jtomas801

04-19-2010, 06:18 PM

Hello,

I thought it was about time that I introduce myself and my project. I am Jonathan Feltis from covina, ca. I am 21 years old. My project is a 69 AMC Javelin that I have had for almost 3 years now. My Dad and I have been working on it ourselves.

This is what the car looked like when I bought:
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/100_2490.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/100_2494.jpg

My Dad did all the body work and paint
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/100_2619.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/100_2622.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/100_2715.jpg

Here is some pictures of the car after paint and before the trans died
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/P1000397.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/P1000395.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/P1000394.jpg

tgvettes

04-19-2010, 06:32 PM

Very nice, I have always liked the Javelins. never had one though.

Tonny

Jtomas801

04-19-2010, 06:52 PM

I want to build a nice pro-touring/autocross/track car.

For the front suspension I am going use C6 corvette components and a weld in sub frame that a forum member here, Scott Mock, built for me. It will have Strange Engineering coil overs and an AGR power rack.
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/IMG_0037.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/IMG_0031.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/IMG_0040.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/P1000451.jpg

Scott did a really nice job on the frame and even took the extra time to tig weld it for me. He fab'd up the steering arms and bent the sway bar arms. He always kept me updated on the progress he made, and shipped it out exactly when he said he would. Scott was great to deal with and answered all my questions. If you are looking for an awesome subframe, I would call him up.

For the Rear suspension, I am thinking of building are own 3 link with a panhard bar or maybe even a watts link and Strange Engineering coilovers in the rear also. The rear axle is a 9 full floater with speedway engineering aluminum hubs, moser aluminum 3rd member, 3.64 rp, and Speedway Eng. axles.

As for brakes I am looking a 13" or 14" Wilwood setup with 6 piston calipers and gt rotors, in the rear I have a pair of Wilwood forged 4 piston superlites with 1.88/1.75 stainless pistons with a 12.19" gt rotor.

I am not quite sure on wheels yet, but I am thinking of getting some ccw classics in 17x10 and 17x11 with 275's on the front and 315's on the rear.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

04-19-2010, 08:47 PM

Jon; your car is awesome.I was looking for a javelin when I found this 66 nova sedan. I still want to build a Penske/Donahue Javelin one of these days.It's great that the sub frame is going in such a bad a&& car.And guys by the way Jon was great to work with too.He sent a check every time he said he would.So it is easy to work w/ some like that.It's great when everybody does what they say they will do.Good luck Jon w/ the project.And you have some if you need anything else you just ask.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

asifnyc

04-19-2010, 10:12 PM

hey Jon,
cool to see you over here. I'm bringing my Javelin to Pomona this year. look forward to seeing you again :thumbsup:

Jtomas801

04-19-2010, 10:41 PM

Thanks Scott, after seeing your camaro I can't wait to see what the nova looks like.

Asif, I will be there to but with out my car. The car is way to far apart to make the show.

Thanks,
Jon

radrambler

04-20-2010, 06:05 AM

NICE JAVELIN

:thumbsup:
LOVING THAT FRAME.....

Tom

camcojb

04-20-2010, 08:27 AM

NICE JAVELIN

:thumbsup:
LOVING THAT FRAME.....

Tom
yeah, Scott does great work with these frames.......... :yes:

Jody

waynieZ

04-20-2010, 05:31 PM

Thats a nice looking car and a great project.

Jtomas801

04-21-2010, 10:56 PM

Thanks guys, I can't wait to get this thing back together and finally start driving it again.

Thanks,
Jon

tyoneal

04-22-2010, 03:38 AM

Looks like you are really doing it right, OMG!

I'm glad to see another Javelin or AMX. I have always loved them. It's really a shame several hundred thousand weren't made.

Had a friend back in the late 70's who bought a "Cherry" Javelin with a 390, 4 speed. He paid a whopping $500 cash for it.

On another note,

I wonder if someone will ever take up the task of, "Dare to be Different", with a Pro-Touring, "Matador". That's a car that would be really a challenge to make a "Riddler" award winning entry out of.

Please post a bunch of pictures of your Javelin when you can.

Ty O'Neal

mike343sharpstk

04-23-2010, 07:26 AM

Thanks guys, I can't wait to get this thing back together and finally start driving it again.

Thanks,
Jon

Jonathan, this is easily the second coolest AMC on the forum:cheers:

But seriously, can't wait to see how you graft in that front suspension. Have you compared the width of the new front end (wheel mounting surface to whell mounting surface) to the stock config?

Jtomas801

04-23-2010, 06:30 PM

Jtomas801

05-02-2010, 11:07 PM

Didn't get to much done today, just got the seats and carpet out of the car and cut the front end off.
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/P1000471.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/P1000466.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/P1000511.jpg

Here is the lay out of the frame we are doing.
The Red line is a 2x4 .120 wall cross member that will sit right in front of the rear frame rails. This will also be the attachment points for the lower links of the 3 link.

The Blue lines are the "sub frame connectors" that will be welded to the rear cross member and to the front frame section. We will cut out the bottom of the existing frame rails and slide the 3x3 steal in between. The 3x3 will be even with the bottom of the existing frame rails and will stick through the floor inside the car. Then the 3x3 will be welded to the floor.

The Yellow lines are 2x4 .120 which is the same material the front frame is made out of.

I think this is the best and strongest way to do this. The car will also have down bars in the engine bay made out of 1.75 DOM tubing.

When we start on the rear end we will do a mini tube using the existing tubs and will have to notch the frame rail to allow proper clearance for a 315/35r17 tire on a 11 wide wheel. The front will get a 275/40r17 on a 10" wide wheel.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

05-03-2010, 09:40 AM

mike343sharpstk

05-03-2010, 10:07 AM

Nice! You are braver than I. The blue and red lines are exactly what I would have done.
I would maintain the stock portion of frame in the yellow reference area and build the new front portion of the frame straight forward from their (where the stock fram was orignially).

Another quick note while I'm thinking of it. The biggest clearance problem in the front will be the front-bottom corner of the wheel opening when the front wheel is turned.
with stock suspension and fat tires on the front you can have that problem if you dial in enough caster. I have only about 1/2" clearance at that location and I have skinny tires by comparison to what you will be using.

Scott, first gen Javelins are a bear to find, but when you do find one the price is usually pretty low. Not a huge fan of second-gen humpster javelins in stock trim, but I do think they look great as road racers/pro-touring cars. The second gen cars are easy to find.

waynieZ

05-03-2010, 05:14 PM

That should definately stiffen it up. Nice work!

Jtomas801

05-03-2010, 10:09 PM

Jon, I am impressed w/the work you have done so far.I wish I was closer I would love to come help out. This is going to be a really cool project.I am still looking for a javelin my self for a project. I am proud to have been a part of this project so far.Keep up the good work and email me if you need any thing else.Scott.:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :hail:

Thanks Scott, when ever you want to start that Javelin project, I got a nice 69 that i can part with for cheap, basically a rolling shell, just got to find a way to ship it.

Nice! You are braver than I. The blue and red lines are exactly what I would have done.
I would maintain the stock portion of frame in the yellow reference area and build the new front portion of the frame straight forward from their (where the stock fram was orignially).

Another quick note while I'm thinking of it. The biggest clearance problem in the front will be the front-bottom corner of the wheel opening when the front wheel is turned.
with stock suspension and fat tires on the front you can have that problem if you dial in enough caster. I have only about 1/2" clearance at that location and I have skinny tires by comparison to what you will be using.

Scott, first gen Javelins are a bear to find, but when you do find one the price is usually pretty low. Not a huge fan of second-gen humpster javelins in stock trim, but I do think they look great as road racers/pro-touring cars. The second gen cars are easy to find.

Lol, you kind of get the "Do I really want to do this" right before you make the first cut, but will get it done. The frame that I got from Scott is 32" outside to outside, he can make them any where from 32" to about 34" wide. The stock frame is 35 7/32" wide, I chose the 32" so I would have more tire clearance up front, since the frame is about 3 7/32" we couldn't find a good way to attach the new sub frame to the old frame.

That should definately stiffen it up. Nice work!

That's what we are hoping for, should work out well. I was going to put sub frame connectors in before to stiffen it up, but with this new plan, it is all in one.

Thanks,
Jon

mike343sharpstk

05-04-2010, 08:52 AM

Thanks Scott, when ever you want to start that Javelin project, I got a nice 69 that i can part with for cheap, basically a rolling shell, just got to find a way to ship it.

FYI, The shell of my Javelin was pretty rotted, so I got a better one from AZ. the shell only cost me $500:thumbsup: I used U-ship and found a guy that would ship it to Wisconsin for about $1,000. (I still have his contact info somewhere)
Best money I've ever spent.:yes:

If Scott doesn't want that shell let's talk.;)

Jtomas801

05-27-2010, 09:39 PM

Well it is about time for some updates, we have been working on it a little bit every day. We cut off the rest of the stock frame rails that we didn't need, cut the floor open and fitted the frame rails, built a 4' x 8' table to start laying out the frame and rails on.

We cut the bottoms out of the front frame rails, the 3x3 box tubing fits nice in between the sides of the frame rails.
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/P1000516.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/P1000510.jpg

On the front we welded a 8.75x12x.125 plate on the front where the new frame rails will be going.
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/P1000537.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/P1000543.jpg

Here is a good shot of the table we built. The frame is leveled and squared, we have blocks screwed down so that the frame rails can't move.
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/P1000550.jpg

Between all the stuff that is going on this weekend, we are going to try and get the uprights made that connect the subframe to the frame rails done, make and weld in the fish plates on the inside of the frame rails, and hopefully tack the whole frame together.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

05-28-2010, 04:55 PM

:thumbsup: Jon; looks awesome.I think you will have something alot of folks are really going to like when you are finished. I can't wait to see more updates.Scott.:thumbsup:

Jtomas801

05-31-2010, 12:09 AM

My Dad got the uprights and the fish plates for the front made the other day. Hopefully we can start welding the front up tomorrow. 275/40r17 with a tire diameter of 25.6 will give me a ride height about 5.75"- 6"(at the bottom of the frame rails), and at this height the lower ball joint is slight lower than the lca bolts. The front cross member is about almost a inch higher that the bottom of the frame rails.

Here's some pictures.
http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/47435/2788105610059418106S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2788105610059418106dzFjGz)
http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/33590/2655655110059418106S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2655655110059418106ucMSNa)
http://inlinethumb52.webshots.com/22387/2134477760059418106S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2134477760059418106IPVbvR)
http://inlinethumb48.webshots.com/13679/2091567100059418106S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2091567100059418106UvysBS)

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

05-31-2010, 08:18 AM

Jon; Looks great.The fit up looks spot on.I really cant wait to see the rest of the project.Could you work a little faster.:lol: :thumbsup:

Jtomas801

06-05-2010, 06:58 PM

Jon; Looks great.The fit up looks spot on.I really cant wait to see the rest of the project.Could you work a little faster.:lol: :thumbsup:

Thanks Scott, will work faster just for you:lol:
Also congrats on the Hot Rod write up on your car, very cool. Now I just have to get my hands on that issue.

We got most of the frame welded together just have to clean up a few areas, then flip it over and weld the bottom parts.

http://inlinethumb11.webshots.com/47818/2318320350059418106S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2318320350059418106RyqDKl)
http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/46036/2295462480059418106S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2295462480059418106RQaQIh)
http://inlinethumb56.webshots.com/44279/2369701060059418106S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2369701060059418106ElGAQW)

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

06-05-2010, 08:03 PM

Jon;Thanks for posting up more photo's,If and when I find that humpster javelin I will be doing alot of the same as your project. You are doing a nice job.I am really enjoying this build.Getting some cool idea's from you.Great job.Scott.:thumbsup:

Jtomas801

06-20-2010, 10:15 PM

Well this weekend we positioned the sub frame in the car. It fit great, it looks like all are measurements were right on, so I am really happy about that. My Dad will finish welding the sub frame in during the week.

Now I have to purchase a tubing bender so we can bend the engine bars and the roll bar (or cage). I am looking at the JD2 Model 32 bender with a 1 3/4" die that has a 6.5" CLR. Any one have there thoughts on this bender? How about a good place to buy one?

Here is a shot of the sub frame on the car
http://inlinethumb40.webshots.com/43751/2982129780059418106S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2982129780059418106dwnduX)

Hopefully as soon as we get the bender we can position the fenders, bend the engine bay down bars and make the mounts for the fenders.

Thanks,
Jon

asifnyc

06-20-2010, 11:43 PM

hey Jon,

I was just about to post... "where's my update???" :)

looks awesome. can't wait to see it back on the ground!

say hi to your dad. you guys make a great team! :thumbsup:

Jtomas801

06-20-2010, 11:54 PM

hey Jon,

I was just about to post... "where's my update???" :)

looks awesome. can't wait to see it back on the ground!

say hi to your dad. you guys make a great team! :thumbsup:

How's it going?,

I know huh, I had to look back a few pages to find this thing, lol.

After we get the engine bars down and the fenders mounted we are going to turn the car around and start working on the 3 link and mini tub. By the time we get the 3 link done, I will have the money saved up to buy the wheels and tires. Then we can see what it looks like.

Its a lot of work but, I know it will be worth it in the end.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

07-01-2010, 07:02 AM

Jon. call me or email some drawings and I will bend you some down bars for the cost of shipping.785.594.7481 Looks great.Scott

Jtomas801

07-01-2010, 11:21 PM

Jon. call me or email some drawings and I will bend you some down bars for the cost of shipping.785.594.7481 Looks great.Scott

Thanks for the offer, that is really cool. I found out that a friend of a friend has an extra bender in his shop that he is willing to loan me. If this doesn't work out, I will take you up on your offer. The reason I was thinking about purchasing a bender was that I want to bend a roll bar or cage for my car and my Dad wants to put a roll bar in his chevelle.

My Dad decided to start the rear cross member that all the links will attach to. It is made out of 2x4 .120 box tubing, we cut holes in the cross member and added 4" .120 wall tubing for the exhaust to pass though. We started the drive shaft loop, it is 2" wide x 3/16" thick strap. We will remove the temporary pieces that are on the cross member now a bend a piece of 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 tubing for the bottom part of the drive shaft loop.

http://inlinethumb64.webshots.com/35775/2356637240059418106S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2356637240059418106EmwSLq)
http://inlinethumb59.webshots.com/45882/2796570780059418106S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2796570780059418106VNnviF)

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

07-02-2010, 06:48 AM

Jon;look's great.I buy all my bending dies from ProTools in fla.Or theres a company in Iowa called VanSant.they have some nice benders.:thumbsup:

Jtomas801

07-12-2010, 01:24 AM

Right now we are working on the 3 link rear, and I am having trouble deciding what size tubing and rod ends I need for the lower links.

HRPWorld.com sells 1.125 chrome molly links for 5/8" - 18 rod ends with tig weld tubing adapters. The rod ends I am thinking of using, use a 5/8" bolt. I will be using this for the upper link.
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tpc=Link_Tubes_-_1_18_OD_4130_Steel_15_to_24_Long&form_prod_id=219,212_1449&action=product

Will this be strong enough for the Lowers? Or should I use 3/4" bolt with 3/4" rod ends and bigger tubing for the link?

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

07-12-2010, 09:58 AM

Jon, 4130 rod ends will be strong enough.BUT rod ends will REAL NOISEY.They will bang and clank. Look at using some rubber or delrin syle bushings.My rear suspension is rod ends and it drives up the wall on a long drive.My new camaro project is going to have some poly bushing in the front and a johnny joint in the rear of the bars. call and we will talk.785.594.7481Scott.

coolwelder62

07-13-2010, 06:49 AM

Jon; The bolts in the 3 link on my camaro are also 5/8 for the upper and lower.The 4130 moly rod ends are lined and are not as nosiey.also my car has no sound deadern & interior.That makes it loauder than your car would be.I used 1.250x.095 4130 tube for my 3 link tubes.The 1.125 will work if the wall thickness of the tube is not to thin.:thumbsup:

Jtomas801

07-13-2010, 10:39 PM

Thanks for the info Scott! I will see about the wall thickness from HRP if it is too thin, I just might have to call you about making up some links for me.

Do you tig the adapters on or do you tap the tubing and just thread the rod end in?

Over the weekend I was at a friends house and he had some left over circle track stuff. I found this cool adjustable panhard bar mount that gives you about 4" of up/down adjustment by turning the bolt on the end. I was thinking about running it for the chassis side of the upper link. This way I will have infinite adjustment with in the 4" range, instead of raising it in 1" increments.

I have been playing around with two different programs to configure the 3 link and I think I got it to where I want it for now. Hopefully we can finish making the brackets and get the welded in this weekend.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

07-14-2010, 06:43 AM

Jon; I get my my threaded tube ends from McMaster Carr.com about $7.00 each.Then I tig weld then ends w/ 1 rosette weld per end.Call me and I will walk you though the steps.:thumbsup:

prostreetz28

07-15-2010, 02:57 AM

Jtomas801

07-21-2010, 11:59 PM

We haven't been working on the car that much, but Sunday we got some of the three link brackets made. The LCA frame mounts are now done and welded to the cross member, the axle LCA mounts are fully welded together and tacked to the rear end housing for now, the axle UCA mount is made and tacked to the housing.

http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/39956/2519270330059418106S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2519270330059418106qeZTwB)
http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/12450/2984812820059418106S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2984812820059418106MJsEDn)
http://inlinethumb18.webshots.com/47761/2362836490059418106S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2362836490059418106pwyDPc)

The cross member is almost done, just waiting on some material to build the upper 3rd link mount.
http://inlinethumb56.webshots.com/12599/2940850880059418106S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2940850880059418106iMpbqA)

Here is the start of the panhard bar mount, it is slotted and has 4" of adjust ability. It will be mounted on the passenger side of the axle.
http://inlinethumb18.webshots.com/44625/2719401660059418106S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2719401660059418106xwwVFn)

All the brackets will get more bracing after every thing is mocked up.

Scott, I will give you a call before we start making the links. I found the tubing adapters on McMaster-Carr, thanks for the tip. I decided to go with PTFE lined 5/8" rod ends. I was thinking about going with DOM 1.25" .120" wall tubing instead of 4130, as we don't have a tig welder. But I also noticed the tubing adapters are 4130, can these be MIG welded?

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

07-22-2010, 04:16 PM

Jon;
You can mig weld the tube adapter's. Just make sure you drill a 5/16 hole about a 3/8 of an inch from the end of the tube and rosette weld the tube end also.Mild steel will work for the 3 link tube's.Look's great.:thumbsup:

Jtomas801

07-25-2010, 11:16 PM

Well this weekend we got the 3 link cross member done and tacked in the car. So far so good, we just have to double check our measurements before welding it in place.

http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/45600/2910071610059418106S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2910071610059418106CfPPiG)
http://inlinethumb16.webshots.com/46543/2006342120059418106S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2006342120059418106KXivau)
http://inlinethumb28.webshots.com/12635/2253008060059418106S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2253008060059418106FvwfKF)

I hope to get started working on building the links and the upper coil over panhard bar cross member.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

08-02-2010, 06:55 AM

Jon;I missed your last post.Really looking great.You are doing an awesome job.I used the same rod ends,but mine have a 3/4 shank w/ 5/8 hole.They are still noisey.But if you use some dyna type mat sound deadener & carpeting I bet you wont notice it.Good luck and keep the photo's coming.Scott:thumbsup:

Jtomas801

08-02-2010, 10:35 PM

Thanks Scott, thanks for the tips on welding the tube adapters, my Dad got the links welded up today while I was at work, and they look good. I took some pictures but it was dark and the pictures suck.

The rod ends I got are 5/8 bolt and shank, now since you said yours have a 3/4 shank I am getting worried mine are a little on the small side. When we measured the links we made sure we had just enough adjust ability but with as much of the rod end threaded in the tube.

I just found the rod ends like yours, the ultimate radial static load capacity is 40,500 lbs, the rating on mine are about 18,000 lbs. that's a big difference.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

08-03-2010, 06:31 AM

Jon; go ahead and use the 5/8-5/8 rod ends. Just keep an eye on the 5/8 treaded ends. You can always change them later if you need too.Unless you are going to really thrash on the car super hard I don't think it will ever be an issue. And the upper link w/ be the one that will get most of the work.If you have street tires on the car they should lose grip before the rod ends fail.Keep up the great work.Scott

coolwelder62

08-28-2010, 05:36 AM

Jon; hows the fab work coming along on your javelin.I am really liking what you are doing.Scott.

Jtomas801

08-29-2010, 01:22 AM

Hey Scott, how's it going? Any new projects going on? How's the camaro running?

It has been going pretty slow the last few weeks, but we are working on it this weekend. I bought a pro-tools tubing bender from a lady that didn't need it any more, it came with a 1.25" and 1.625" die. Had to put a post in the ground outside so we could use it, all I need to do is get a 1.75" die.

The goal for tomorrow is to plate the insides of the rear frame rails, install the panhard bar/fuel cell cross member, place/tach the axle side panhard bracket and caliper brackets, and cut more unneeded sheet metal out.

If all goes well, I want to order the wheels and tires some time next month and see what this thing is going to look like on the ground. Right now I am looking at some CCW Classics with 275's up front and 315's in the rear. I would really like to put some forgeline ZX3R's but their a little out of the budget. I also can't decide if I want 17's or move up to 18's, I am leaning towards the 17's though.

I will give an update tomorrow along with some pictures to show where we are at.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

08-29-2010, 10:13 AM

You know Jon some vintage wheel works V-45'sOR V-48's would look really good on your AMC.They are now building 18's.Keep me posted.Thank's Scott

asifnyc

08-29-2010, 07:53 PM

Jon,

get some new pics posted, I need a fix! :D

Jtomas801

08-29-2010, 08:34 PM

Got some pictures for you guys but, it's not much.
http://inlinethumb62.webshots.com/28157/2205386190059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2205386190059418106eFmiUA)
http://inlinethumb08.webshots.com/28231/2385879990059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2385879990059418106Ehmxxl)
http://inlinethumb43.webshots.com/32234/2501845420059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2501845420059418106GCtHMR)

I just realized that I don't have a good overall pictures of the 3 link in the car, so when I get the rest of the sheet metal cut out, I can post up a good picture of every thing.

Most of the brackets are done on the rear end, just have to add the sway bar mounts and bracing. I don't want to fully weld every thing together until I get every thing assembled and make sure every thing clears.

I wanted to put the calipers on the rear of the axle but it interfered with my panhard bar bracket, so I had to move them to the front. Since they are differential bore calipers, I can't swap them side to side to get the bleeder screws on top. I will have to swap the bleeder screws and the crossover tube around, but that shouldn't be a big deal.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

08-30-2010, 11:18 AM

Jon look's awesome.:thumbsup: Can't wait to see more.Doing a great job.It's cool that I was able to be part of this project.Scott.

coolwelder62

09-06-2010, 02:05 PM

JON; any more updates.Just want to know how you are coming along.Scott.

Jtomas801

09-06-2010, 10:38 PM

Hey Scott, we got a couple things done, as we only worked on it Monday. We got the plates welded on the inside of the frame rails, cut and welded in the cross member that will hold the front of the fuel cell and support a sway bar in the future. We also got the chassis side panhard bar mount made and welded in the car.

http://inlinethumb24.webshots.com/33175/2250021070059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2250021070059418106AffaPd)
Yes, the chassis side panhard bar is a little off plum, but it is fixed now, lol.

http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/46022/2680698520059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2680698520059418106KkdQzx)
http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/12088/2126028670059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2126028670059418106PtyohD)

We still have to make the upper shock cross member, but that will have to wait till the roll bar gets put in. Besides that some extra bracing and fully weld all the brackets to the axle, the rear suspension is done.

I think the next thing we are going to tackle, is mini tubing the rear and notching the frame rails. I will be running a 315 tire, There is no way I will be able to fit a 335 back there, but I think a 315 is big enough.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

09-07-2010, 10:55 AM

Jon; Looking awesome.Watching the progress on your project and a few other's gets in the mood to work on my project.This is really going to be a neat car when you are finished.:thumbsup:

Jtomas801

09-07-2010, 10:13 PM

Thanks Scott. Yeah, its fun to watch the other builds come along. Plus, I learn a lot of stuff just by watching the other projects, there is always more than one way to build something and it is always cool to see what other people come up with to meet a certain goal.

So Scott, what is your new project? Still trying to find a 2nd gen Camaro, or have you found something else?

My goal is to get this car on its wheels and tires by the end of October, but that all depends on what wheels I end up buying and if I get them in time, but we will see.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

09-08-2010, 06:28 AM

Jon; I will email you some photo's.Scott

asifnyc

09-08-2010, 11:54 AM

Jon, looking good. can't wait to see it back on the ground. what wheels are you considering?

Jtomas801

09-09-2010, 09:25 PM

Cool Scott, can't wait to see the pictures.

Hey Asif, I can't wait either. Can't wait to get it going, and try to catch some track days with you. As for wheels I am looking a some CCW Classics in 18x9.5 and 18x11 with either a Titanium center or a black center with polished lips. But now that I have seen the NewGen 3pc Lites, I don't know.

Thanks,
Jon

millerman340

09-21-2010, 04:37 PM

Subscribing to a cool build! did you choose your wheels? What was your measurements from inside wheel lip to inside wheel lip?

coolwelder62

09-22-2010, 04:40 PM

Jon those newgen III Lites are cool and would bad a&& on your car.:thumbsup:

Jtomas801

09-22-2010, 04:58 PM

Subscribing to a cool build! did you choose your wheels? What was your measurements from inside wheel lip to inside wheel lip?

I don't have that measurement yet as I don't have the fenders on, but when I do, I will measure it out.

I haven't decided on the wheels yet, but I am thinking about getting the Forgeline ZX3R's in 18's, they are a little bit pricey for me, but I really like those wheels. My thinking is, I should spend the extra money now and buy the wheels that I really like, instead of getting wheels the I sorta like and regretting it later.

The Newgen lites are really nice too, but the price is way out of my budget.

Hey Scott, wheres those pictures at, I haven't seen them yet!

We started the mini tubbing process last weekend, we cut out half of the old inner fender out, figured out how much we had to notch out of the frame. Instead of using the old inner fender we decided to make some sheet metal inner's to gain a little bit more room at the top and the out sides of the tubs. Here is some pictures of what we got started on.

http://inlinethumb04.webshots.com/46723/2154612060059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2154612060059418106gTYNYe)
http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/45684/2440806560059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2440806560059418106wSyTRD)

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

09-22-2010, 06:16 PM

Jon, If sell my blue 69 I am thinking of forglines zx3 also w/hidden hardware for new camaro.Sorry forgot about the photo's,will try and send those tonight

coolwelder62

09-22-2010, 06:20 PM

jon cant find your email drop me a line at [email protected]. Scott

coolwelder62

10-11-2010, 08:37 PM

Jon any update's.Had a few guys see your project and call wanting a clip like your's,Thank's Scott.:thumbsup:

Jtomas801

10-12-2010, 04:26 PM

I haven't done any thing with the car, I have been working weekends and nights so I'm all screwed up, lol. We are going to get back on it this weekend, I ordered a 1.75" die for the tubing bender last week that I should be getting on Wednesday.

Lately, I have been really thinking about wheels and after a few emails I think I am going to go with Forgeline zx3r in 17x10 and 17x11 with 275/40 and 315/35 nitto NT05 for the street and later on Toyo R888's in the same size for racing around.

My reasons for picking the 17's over the 18's is:
1 - found out I could run BIG brakes in them
2 - more available street performance (200 treadware min) and R compound street tires in the sizes I need
3 - tires are a lot cheaper
4 - I think the smaller diameter of the wheel a tire will look better in the car.

I saw your thread on the 72 Camaro Scott, it's looking good. Can not wait to see more updates on it. Damn, 315's in front again, man your crazy, lol.

Thanks,
Jon

asifnyc

10-12-2010, 08:56 PM

Jtomas801

10-13-2010, 02:29 PM

hey Jon,

I support your decision to go 17s :thumbsup: IMO anything bigger would look out of place on the early Javelins...

I'm dying over here. when are you coming to the track with me? get that thing done :lol:

My thoughts exactly.

Trust me, I can't wait either, lol. I have been working my but off this week. I will get started working of the car again this weekend, hopefully pick up some material to start the roll bar. Will see how much "garage art" I will come up with lol. My Dad will finish welding up the left frame so we can start building the inner tub.

Oh, by the way Asif, I saw the roll cage pictures of your AI Javelin, looks great. You got to send me some info on the 3 link your building, got me interested. Also, have you bought your rear brakes yet?

Thanks,
Jon

asifnyc

10-20-2010, 09:08 PM

hey Jon,

I'll post some info/pics on the 3 link once it's done. nothings happened yet but they claim it should be done maybe the end of next week... as for the rear brakes I ordered them at the same time I ordered the ford 9". Wilwood 11.5 inch rotors with 4 piston calipers. here's a pic:

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_VGa1vkndYXc/TL-t8fpEIHI/AAAAAAAABDM/MI39wOyJLdc/103_4048.JPG

Jtomas801

10-21-2010, 12:42 AM

Cool, looks good Asif.

I haven't done any thing on the car yet, with the rain and I was sick over the weekend. But this weekend I will get some thing done. We are taking my Dad's chevelle to get it on the dyno saturday, I'm predicting around 450 to 460 rwhp.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

10-21-2010, 06:47 AM

Jon,who has giving you the best price on those forgeline wheels.

asifnyc

10-21-2010, 01:02 PM

oops, edited the above post. they're 4 piston calipers, not 2 piston...

Jtomas801

10-21-2010, 03:39 PM

Hey, Scott, I will be getting the wheels from prodigy customs, he has been taking the time to answer all my questions so it's time to pay him back.

Asif, I thought those were 4 piston, right now I am trying to sell a set of those calipers and 12.19 gt rotors, that's why I asked. Also are your rear rotors .810, or 1.25" thick?

Thanks,
Jon

asifnyc

10-22-2010, 08:01 PM

rears are .81 fronts will be 1.25

Jtomas801

10-31-2010, 08:07 PM

Small update! My Dad and I got the left rear tub made and fitted, all we have to do is make some small filler pieces and weld it in. We should get this side done by next Sunday.

We have never done a mini tub job before, so we got to try out a few new tools we picked up like the bead roller, hole punch and found out how awesome clecos are! So the right side should move along a lot faster since we have a template now and have a plan on whats happening.

I got a set of Forgeline ZX3R wheels on lay away, I just have to finalize my color choice (thinking satin black or maybe a satin bronze center and polished lips) and get some backspace numbers to Frank at Prodigy Customs. Going to order a set of tires tomorrow (Nitto NT05's) to help with fitment, now I just have to mock up the front suspension and fenders to get an accurate measurement.

Here is some pics:
http://inlinethumb60.webshots.com/45563/2223367910059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2223367910059418106AeBFtO)
http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/43206/2487341720059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2487341720059418106SgnqNA)
http://inlinethumb60.webshots.com/9339/2449215420059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2449215420059418106qRMKfR)

Thanks,
Jon

asifnyc

10-31-2010, 08:20 PM

awesome, looks great! I love clecos too :thumbsup:

Jtomas801

10-31-2010, 08:23 PM

awesome, looks great! I love clecos too :thumbsup:

Thanks man, how's the AI Project going?

Thanks,
Jon

mike343sharpstk

11-01-2010, 11:31 AM

That's great stuff, I wouldn't do anything different.:thumbsup:
I sooo want to start another Javelin project, I just don't have the time and cash right now.:mad: Plus I want to get my current car where I want it before I get another project going.
I will be ordering G-Force internals for my Auto-to-T5 swap in the next week or two and I dropped off my 401 with the engine builder to get that started.:D

Jtomas801

11-01-2010, 03:56 PM

Thanks Mike, your car is looking good, and I really like the hood. That 401 and the T5 will really make that car fun to drive. What kinda horsepower you looking to get out of the 401?

Thanks,
Jon

mike343sharpstk

11-01-2010, 04:43 PM

Thanks! It's been another fun summer with it.
The goal is 450-500 HP with very good street maners. This will pretty much max out the capabilities of G-Force T5.
For the block I am going to stick with the basic stock forged internals, about 10.5:1 CR, and a custom roadrace pan with an external oil pickup line.
The only spendy part will be the Edelbrock heads with some bucks spent on porting and shorty headers (eventually some long-tube custom headers too).

Jtomas801

11-14-2010, 07:46 PM

Sounds like a great plan Mike, should be a lot of fun.

Well a small update, We got the tub fully welded in, I got my new tires in decided to go with some 275/40/17 and 315/35r17 Toyo R888's. I got most of my wheel measurements now, just waiting for a conformation that the backspacing I need will clear the brakes, then they can start making them.

Here is a few pictures:
http://inlinethumb28.webshots.com/6235/2859310120059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2859310120059418106YdSqOC)
http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/47648/2321938500059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2321938500059418106sUQPcU)
http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/46940/2218745710059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2218745710059418106mRUwpy)

Front wheel will be 9.5" wide with a 6.25" backspace pending it will clear 14" Baer 6S brake kit. The back will be 11" wide with 6.9" backspace. This makes the front track width 1" wider overall than the rear.

Thanks,
Jon

Bryce

12-02-2010, 09:07 AM

Bad@$$ build

coolwelder62

12-02-2010, 09:07 PM

Jon lookin real good. Can't wait too see it with the wheels.Scott

Jtomas801

12-02-2010, 10:01 PM

Thanks Bryce!

Yeah Scott, I can't wait to see it with the wheels to, I believe the order got sent in on Monday so I should see them in 2 - 4 weeks. It will be like a big xmas present to myself, lol.

Scott, how is your project coming along?

Thanks,
Jon

Jtomas801

01-16-2011, 07:46 PM

Wow, took a little time to find this thread, looks like every body is making progress besides me, lol.

Well got a small update, me and my Dad finished the building the right side tub and it is ready to be welded in.

I bought a 22 gallon Fuel Safe Enduro cell and we started building the cage/mount for it. The cell is to tall to fit in the trunk so we are making the cell and the mount removable from the bottom.
http://inlinethumb25.webshots.com/3096/2891162420059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2891162420059418106jmoNGj)
http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/44130/2049415780059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2049415780059418106pKMfyp)
http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/46321/2689555900059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2689555900059418106tHdWeS)

We have to make some mounting brackets to bolt it to the panhard bar crossmember and to the rear frame rails and then add the bottom support rails.

Also, I bought a set of Tilton Racing firewall mount pedals, got a good deal using summit racing's coupons. This setup uses a two master cylinders and a balance bar that I will be adjusting by a Tilton remote adjuster that will be mounted on the transmission tunnel.
http://inlinethumb61.webshots.com/44540/2158484110059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2158484110059418106IcLiDa)

I should be seeing my wheels some time this coming week, the car is getting pretty close to being a rolling chassis. Just have to finish the panhard bar setup and make the rear coilover mounts.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

01-16-2011, 08:20 PM

Jon,Look's real good.Sorry I haven't called been thrashing on the camaro trying to get it ready for paint.And trying to get the rest of the part's needed to finish the thing up.I need to get this thing almost finished before I start thinking of another project.So if you still have when I get the camaro running I will cal you.Thank's Scott.

Jtomas801

01-23-2011, 11:45 PM

Jtomas801

01-23-2011, 11:59 PM

The wheel tubs are finally done! Well at least for the fabrication part still need to clean them up and seal them, that will happen after most of the fab work on the rear is done. Seems like we have been working on these things forever.

Also, some progress on the fuel cell mount. Got the hole cut in the trunk, made and welded the front bolt on brackets. I still have to make the rear brackets, add bottom supports for the tank and 2 straps to hold the tank in. Do to the jackstands holding the rear of the car up, I will most likely finish this project after we get the panhard bar finalized (waiting on wheels) and get the main part of the roll cage in the car, so I can remove the stands to finish the mounts.

Heres some pics,
http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/47672/2864525000059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2864525000059418106bmmgta)
http://inlinethumb11.webshots.com/27402/2911380460059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2911380460059418106JccnsI)
http://inlinethumb28.webshots.com/46107/2433879110059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2433879110059418106moclOa)

I didn't get my wheels this past week so I should see them in the next few days, I will try to get the tires mounted and mocked up on the car this weekend.

Thanks,
Jon

mike343sharpstk

01-24-2011, 07:58 AM

Amazing work.
Getting any car back on its wheels is a very big deal, congratulations.:thumbsup:

asifnyc

01-24-2011, 09:36 AM

looks great Jon:thumbsup:

coolwelder62

01-24-2011, 11:47 AM

Jon,Looking real good.The camaro is in pcs. all over the shop.Will be taking it to the paint shop next week.Not much to show everybody.After it get's some color and have it as a finished car will post some photo's.Might send you some spy shot's.Keep up the great work on your end.Scott:thumbsup:

Jtomas801

02-13-2011, 05:43 PM

Yay my wheels are here!

Here is some pictures of the rear, the are forgeline ZX3R 17x11 with toyo r888 315/35r17 on them. The pictures are with the rear end at ride height.

http://inlinethumb37.webshots.com/47716/2902498030059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2902498030059418106WmpXWF)
http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/42988/2343340960059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2343340960059418106MyOzwV)
http://inlinethumb30.webshots.com/38749/2955591560059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2955591560059418106HnULzK)

Thanks,
Jon

waynieZ

02-13-2011, 06:34 PM

The wheels looks sweet! Nice work it looks great.

coolwelder62

02-13-2011, 07:05 PM

Awesome.Wheels are smokin cool.:thumbsup:

radrambler

02-13-2011, 07:15 PM

NICE JOB
:thumbsup: LOVE THAT BODY STYLE...
KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK

TOM

Jtomas801

02-13-2011, 07:30 PM

Thanks guys!

Hopefully I can get the rear suspension buttoned up here pretty soon, so I can start on the engine bay bars and the roll bar. After thats done I got to set this thing on the ground and see what it looks like, seems like it has been sitting on the stands forever!

Thanks,
Jon

asifnyc

02-13-2011, 11:14 PM

oh man those wheels look awesome! :cool:

Jtomas801

02-13-2011, 11:55 PM

oh man those wheels look awesome! :cool:

Thanks man, alot of saving went for those, lol.

So hows your car coming? I have seen that you are working on the grill, it looks pretty good so far. Also how is the engine build going? Are you coming down here to pick it up when it is done or are they shipping it up to you?

Thanks,
Jon

asifnyc

02-14-2011, 09:24 PM

I'm coming down to pick up the engine. we got delayed because the oil pickup for the new milodon road race pan we're using wasn't ready. engine is supposed to be done in 2 weeks. so, fingers crossed, first week of March I'll be coming down.

Jtomas801

02-15-2011, 12:13 AM

cool, I will keep my fingers crossed it gets done too. What transmission will you be using? Let me know when you get done here, it would be cool to see it.

Thanks,
Jon

Bryce

02-15-2011, 09:19 AM

Those wheels look great

Tincup

02-15-2011, 06:15 PM

Hey Jon, I'm new here and just finished reading your build. All I can say is WOW, your doing an awsome job. I'm a real sucker for different cars, nice to see an AMC pro tour...:thumbsup:

Jtomas801

02-16-2011, 11:35 PM

Thanks guys, it's nice to hear people like the car.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

02-23-2011, 07:12 PM

Jon, how are thing's coming along on the javelin.What back spacing did you end up w/ on the frt.and rear wheels.:thumbsup: Scott

Jtomas801

02-23-2011, 08:11 PM

Hey Scott,

Things are moving pretty slow right now because of the weather, I just picked up a stick of 1.75" x .120 wall dom, so I hope to start the engine bay down bars. Still have to figure out how I want to do it. I also want to go down one day on the weekend to watch the guys at RTTC, hopefully it doesn't rain to bad Saturday.

I also just ordered a new GN Full Floater Moser rear housing and axles, the overall width flange to flange will be 56.5". This will complete all the parts I need to assemble the rear end, as I already have the hubs, Detroit locker, polished 3.64 gears and a Moser aluminum 3rd member. I was going to go with the gun drilled axles, but at $75 more per axle I didn't see the small weight savings worth it, plus the non gun drilled axles have a life time warranty! I should get this stuff by next Friday.

I keep wanting to put a full cage in it, but there's just not enough clearance from the a-pillar bar to my head. I don't want to wear a helmet every time I drive it on the street so I got to stick to a roll bar. I also thought about gutting the interior expect the door panels and dash with a cage, and do like you did to your penske camaro, but I don't know.

The backspacing on the wheels is 6.9 front and rear. The fronts are 17x9.5 and the rears are 11" wide I might have to send the front wheels back to be modified to fit the front brake kit that I want, I am working with Frank to get that done, so it shouldn't be a problem.

So Scott, is there any color on that Camaro yet!

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

02-23-2011, 08:29 PM

Jon, no color on the camaro yet.Brian is trying to get everything perfect w/the body work.

asifnyc

02-25-2011, 09:36 PM

hey Jon,

ok, I'm going to be in your neighborhood next Friday (March 4th) to dyno the motor! If you're interested and available you could come to Speed o Motive for the dyno session. I should be in the afternoon around 3pm.

Also, I'm looking for a place to crash Friday night. then I'm going to drive home Sat. AM.

Got my IFS and Trans today! Trans is a built up T5 called an A5 from Astro Performance.

Jtomas801

02-26-2011, 09:40 PM

Well I started to bend some tube for the front engine bay bars and figured out how I am going to do them. Just have to bend the right side bar and make the mounting plates.

I will post some pictures tomorrow of what I got done.

Asif, I would like to see your engine on the dyno, I will check with my boss to see if I can get off a couple hours early. I wish I could help you out on the place to stay, we are doing some remodeling so every thing is a big mess.

I read your blog and saw the pictures of the front end, looks like a nice piece. Your doing an awesome job on this car and I can't wait to see it run!

Thanks,
Jon

asifnyc

02-26-2011, 11:46 PM

hold up Jon. now they're making noise like it might not be ready. I'll let you know as soon as I get a firm date from them.

radrambler

03-03-2011, 06:25 PM

Jtomas801

03-03-2011, 08:25 PM

Unfortunately, I don't have the measurements or a template. What we did was first level the car out and then used a angle finder on the floor board to find the angle.

I started with where I wanted the ride height to be, 5.5" from the ground to the bottom of the lower frame section.

To get the height of the c6 clip, we put the clip on the table with the suspension on it, then leveled out the lower control arm so that the lower ball joint was level with the lca bolts. Then we took the loaded radius of the Tire (toyo r888 275/40r 17 with a static loaded radius of 11.9") and raised the clip until we had 11.9" from the ground to the center of the hub.

After that it was pretty easy to figure out the down pieces, after you cut one end of the down piece with the angle you took off the floor board, you can hold it up on the table and trace out all the angles and cuts.

The table worked out great, it was only about $50 to build and was worth every cent. We used lag bolts underneath each leg to level the table. It made it very easy to build the frame, it was flat and nice and level. Plus being high off the ground made a good working height. Also, we screwed blocks of wood down so it would hold the metal in place while we were working.
Thanks,
Jon

waynieZ

03-03-2011, 08:32 PM

It looks good. Nice work.

Jtomas801

03-03-2011, 08:42 PM

It looks good. Nice work.

Thanks.

I just got my new full floater rear end housing and axles from Moser Engineering. Looks like a well built piece, it has a nice thick flange where the 3rd member mounts to, a lot nicer than the housing that's in the car now. I now have every thing to build the rear end, so as soon as we get the brackets welded on, get powder coated or painted, we will assemble it.

Thanks,
Jon

mike343sharpstk

03-04-2011, 07:14 AM

I thought converting my Javelin to a 5-speed was exhausting, I don't know how you do it but keep it up.:thumbsup:

mike343sharpstk

03-04-2011, 11:07 AM

Jon, I came by these pictures of a Javelin cage, thought they might be usefull for you.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh116/343sharpstick/MVC-479F.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh116/343sharpstick/MVC-478F.jpg

Jtomas801

03-04-2011, 08:16 PM

Lol, thanks Mike, just trying it one step at a time. So when is the first road test with the new 5 speed gonna happen?

Thanks for the pictures of the cage it looks nice, that's pretty much how I am going to do my door bars as well. Who's Javelin is that?

Thanks,
Jon

mike343sharpstk

03-05-2011, 04:39 PM

A shop I work with (located In Kenosha of all places;)) , did the fab work on this. Not sure the owner, maybe it'll be at the Kenosha homecoming this year :thumbsup:
BTW, I pick up my next AMC project later this month so I'll be doing some fun fab work again in the future too. I'll post in the appropriate section when it's in my possession:P It will be stored for a while 'till I get my Javelin where I want it.

coolwelder62

04-03-2011, 08:42 AM

Jon,how are thing's coming along on your Javelin.Can't wait see your car setting on the ground.Once agian thank's for using one of my sub frame clip's.:thumbsup: Scott M.

Jtomas801

04-03-2011, 09:02 PM

Jon,how are thing's coming along on your Javelin.Can't wait see your car setting on the ground.Once agian thank's for using one of my sub frame clip's.:thumbsup: Scott M.

Hey Scott,

Between the weather and working weekends, I haven't worked on the car the last past few weeks. I should be able to start working on it again this weekend, first thing I need to do is tack the 3 link brackets to the new housing, mock the rear end up and finish the panhard bar. I also need to finish planing out the roll bar and pick up the material for that.

Right now my front wheels are still at Forgeline getting fixed, they said that my 17" wheels would clear the baer 14" 6s brakes, but it's not even close to fitting the template. So I am changing my brake choice to The Brake Man's F4 caliper 13" rotor kit.

Man, I can't wait to finish this thing, well at least drivable.

Thanks,
Jon

mrgm

04-04-2011, 02:27 AM

subscribed....:thumbsup:

coolwelder62

04-04-2011, 06:56 AM

Jon,a 14" rotor is pretty big to stuff inside a 17" wheel.But I can't wait to see the javelin seating on the ground.My camaro should get some color this week I hope,and maybe the powder coat will done also.Keep us updated.:thumbsup:

Jtomas801

05-02-2011, 12:56 AM

WOW!! I can't believe almost a month went by with out an update, time sure does fly when your busy.

I haven't got to much progress made on the car, been doing a lot of thinking though.

First, on the rear suspension. We had to remake the upper link bracket due to the different shape the new moser housing has, but instead of that I decide to buy a set of brackets from coleman racing.They come with 3/4" holes for the bolts and my suspension set up has 5/8" bolts. Now I start looking at everybody else and their 3 links all are using 3/4" bolts, Now I am thinking that the 5/8" bolts are not going to be strong enough. So I was about ready to remake every bracket on the car, but I bought Carroll Smith's "Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing" hand book.

If I use a -10 AN (5/8" Air Corps/ Navy bolt) it has a allowable single shear strength of 23000 pounds at full diameter, and correct me if I am wrong, 46000 pounds at full diameter in double shear. With this bolt and a nice hd 5/8" bolt/ 3/4" shank rod end with a static load rated at 40000psi, I would be better than a Grade 8 3/4" bolt and a 3/4" bolt/ 3/4" shank rod end that is rated at 28000psi.

I am still trying to figure out what the shear strength of a Grade 8 3/4" bolt is but I have read that a grade 8 5/8" in single shear is 8000 pounds or 16000 pounds in double shear.

Any ways, I got the main hoop of the roll bar bent the other day, first one I have ever bent, and to my surprize it fit well on the first shot. I also kept going over the multiple ways of mounting the main hoop to the floor, and I think I came up with a good solution.

Pics:
http://inlinethumb41.webshots.com/48616
/2415927550059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2415927550059418106cWWFpw)
http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/47580/2222535600059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2222535600059418106qgGBgE)
http://inlinethumb26.webshots.com/47833/2017336970059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2017336970059418106oOrvJZ)
We are going to try and push the bottom of the hoop to get it closer to the rockers before we weld the hoop in. Also, this just reminded me to clean the spider webs out of the car, lol.

With the roll bar mounts done like this, it ties the frame and the rockers together and it allows me to move the hoop forward and drop it down to weld around the top. I also think it is stronger than mounting a single plate on floor. I also got the engine bay bars bent up, but I don't have pictures of them on my camera yet.

My front wheels are still at Forgeline, but I think we figured out how we need to fix them and they should be starting on them this week.

Thanks,
Jon

Bryce

05-02-2011, 08:04 AM

coolwelder62

05-02-2011, 07:34 PM

Jon,Looking very good.Nice job on that tube bending.Scott

Jtomas801

05-02-2011, 09:00 PM

I use an alloy steel SHCS the 3/4 diameter is good to 44,180 pounds in single shear. The reason I used 3/4 was becasue of the rod ends not the bolts. I actually use a 1/2" bolt (19,635, single shear) in the front LCA mounting points. I used chromoly kevlar/teflon lined rod ends good to 28,081 pounds of force in the radial direction.

Okay, so it sounds like its trying to find a rod that will support the load more than the bolt (5/8 or 3/4)

I am trying to learn a little bit of this, so if you see any thing wrong please let me know.

While searching through google, I found the equation for shear strength:

tensile strength pounds/in2 x cross sectional area.

In the case of a -10 an bolt with a tensile strength of 160,000 psi and a cross-sectional area of 0.306640625 in2 at the full diameter

160000 pounds/in2 x 0.306640625 in2 = 49062.5 pounds

If 49062.5 pounds is single shear, you double it to get 98125 double shear, right? That should be the amount of force to shear the bolt?

Thanks,
Jon

Jtomas801

05-02-2011, 09:06 PM

Jon,Looking very good.Nice job on that tube bending.Scott

Thanks Scott, still trying to get used to the bender. Scott, what do you use to lube up the die and tube while bending? Right now I am using wd40 to lube up the die, but I think I should be using some grease instead. I have a hard time bending the tube by my self with about a 7' lever. I am going to try some grease on the next few tubes and see what happens.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

05-02-2011, 09:16 PM

Thanks Scott, still trying to get used to the bender. Scott, what do you use to lube up the die and tube while bending? Right now I am using wd40 to lube up the die, but I think I should be using some grease instead. I have a hard time bending the tube by my self with about a 7' lever. I am going to try some grease on the next few tubes and see what happens.

Thanks,
JonJon,a light grease will work also.If your bender is a mech. type try finding someone my size.Having a buddy that is 6'3" and 280# will solve your bending problems.:lol: Scott.

Jtomas801

05-02-2011, 11:08 PM

Yeah, being 5' 9" and 130 doesn't cut it with a mech bender, but it keeps the car lighter, lol. I had to use a piece of bar stock to make the handle longer so I could get it to bend but after 2 bends, I had to have my Dad help me out.

Thanks,
Jon

Bryce

05-03-2011, 08:31 AM

Jtomas801

05-15-2011, 10:18 PM

Didn't work on the car as much as I wanted to this weekend, but it was my Dad's birthday Saturday so we took time off the car. But, last week I have been working on the car for an hour or so after work redoing the engine bay bars.

At first I had bought the firewall mounted Tilton pedals, but they interfered with how I wanted the engine bay bars so I sent them back to Summit and ordered the reversed under dash setup with the cool cnc aluminum pedals. This way I could keep the engine bay bracing simple. Well that didn't last long.

A few months ago Asif stopped by my house after getting his engine dyno'd for his AI Javelin and I was telling him about the pedals, he then told me about the trouble he had with mounting the remote reservoirs high enough in the engine compartment and that he had to move them to inside the car. I figured there was some thing that I could figure out.

Well now I started messing around with the pedals again, I found a way to mount the reservoirs on the firewall but I would have been expensive and a pain to do. And because of where the balance bar is located on the reverse mount pedals, it would be very difficult to make any adjustments, as the dash bar would be right on top of the balance bar. So now I am sending these back to get the original firewall mounted pedals that I had bought in the first place.

Asif, you were right!

http://inlinethumb49.webshots.com/18480/2528802010059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2528802010059418106DrHkCJ)
http://inlinethumb11.webshots.com/11786/2632120170059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2632120170059418106opYjeC)
http://inlinethumb30.webshots.com/40413/2123561130059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2123561130059418106KqqmHY)
http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/48492/2723581410059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2723581410059418106zpktdB)

So to use the firewall mounted pedals, I had to remake the engine bay bars, move them outward on the frame rail side and add an offset to clear where the master cylinders will come through the firewall. Once the engine gets set into place I will make a bar that connects the two down bars together and make some bracing from the shock mounts.

Under the dash, there will be a dash bar that connects the to engine bay bars together and will also be welded to the kick panel area. This will work out a lot better in so many different ways, I am glad I changed them around.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

05-16-2011, 06:39 AM

Look's real good,Can't wait to see this project completed.:thumbsup:

asifnyc

05-18-2011, 12:17 AM

hey Jon, it's all part of the "fun" :)

glad to hear you've got a plan now. Can wait to see how it turns out. It'll be what I SHOULD have done. oh well...

coolwelder62

06-04-2011, 02:03 PM

Jtomas801

06-04-2011, 02:30 PM

Hey Scott,
Last Monday we worked on it a little bit, got the upper 3rd link bracket welded on and the lca mounts tacked on the new housing, got it under the car.

I am going to fab up a new pan hard bracket for the rear end today, but my Dad is sick so will see if he is up for welding it together tomorrow. I finally got my front wheels back from Forgeline Thursday, they now have the Bad Penny backspacing, so yesterday I got the tires mounted on them.

Nice find on the Javelin, are you going to do a trans-am build like the Sunoco Camaro? You can use many of my ideas as you want, thats no problem right there, lol :cheers:

You got good timing with that Javelin, because a member just pm'd me for your contact info, asking about a subframe for his 74 javelin, you now have the perfect car for R&D.

Thanks,
Jon

Jon how is the javelin coming along.Thurs. I picked up a rust free 71 humpster javelin for my next project.Hope you don't mined if I use some of your idea's:thumbsup: when I start building the frame and connectror's.Scott.

coolwelder62

06-04-2011, 09:36 PM

Jon,Will need to finish up the camaro first.then I will start working on the javelin.Will most likey be a red,white & blue Trans-am clone.:thumbsup:

Jtomas801

06-04-2011, 09:46 PM

Sounds awesome. Speaking of your camaro, it looks like its close to being finished, when do you expect your first drive with it?

Thanks,
Jon

novaguy

06-05-2011, 08:38 AM

this looks awesome!

coolwelder62

06-05-2011, 08:44 AM

Sounds awesome. Speaking of your camaro, it looks like its close to being finished, when do you expect your first drive with it?

Thanks,
JonAbout the middle of july I should be able to drive it.:thumbsup:

mike343sharpstk

06-07-2011, 07:35 PM

Jon how is the javelin coming along.Thurs. I picked up a rust free 71 humpster javelin for my next project.Hope you don't mined if I use some of your idea's:thumbsup: when I start building the frame and connectror's.Scott.

That's great news, my Humpster plans are delayed 'cuz I bought my road-race gremlin (no, I'm not kidding:P ), so It's cool to see another Javelin build on the horizon.

Here is a picture of my family haulin' Rambler, a bit of a different direction than your build, no silly jungle jim tubes running all over the place in the car. Just a quick reminder of what they look like with wheels under 'em:lol:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh116/343sharpstick/IMGP0192.jpg
But seriously, Keep up the good, (edit)GREAT work:thumbsup:

waynieZ

06-07-2011, 08:20 PM

Nice looking car.

mike343sharpstk

06-07-2011, 08:24 PM

Nice looking car.
Thanks man, Jon's car will have a similar shape but will be very, very different:lol: .

Jtomas801

06-07-2011, 09:36 PM

That's great news, my Humpster plans are delayed 'cuz I bought my road-race gremlin (no, I'm not kidding:P ), so It's cool to see another Javelin build on the horizon.

Here is a picture of my family haulin' Rambler, a bit of a different direction than your build, no silly jungle jim tubes running all over the place in the car. Just a quick reminder of what they look like with wheels under 'em:lol:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh116/343sharpstick/IMGP0192.jpg
But seriously, Keep up the good, (edit)GREAT work:thumbsup:

Lol, thanks Mike. I can't believe that the car has been down for a year and a half. Your car is looking great, have you decided what you are going to do on your front spoiler? The more I look at that hood the more I like it, I might have to ditch the fiberglass amx hood and pick up a hood like yours. How does your hood fit the car? Hows the gaps?

My goal is to have the car on the ground in 2 months, hopefully less. I have to finish the panhard bar, weld in the roll bar and the front engine bay braces, then make some ride sticks to hold up the car. I think that is reasonable, Since I am only able to work on it a day or two on the weekends. Unless I get crazy and put a full cage in it, but I can't let myself do that, lol.

Here is a bad picture of the front wheel, it is a 17x9.5" with 7.4" bs I will have to use a small spacer to widen the track with and to clear the calipers. The tires are 274/40r17 Toyo R888's
http://inlinethumb63.webshots.com/48894/2897637070059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2897637070059418106BObMvy)

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

06-08-2011, 07:15 AM

Jon,The wheel's look awesome.Can't wait too see the car setting on the ground.:thumbsup:

mike343sharpstk

06-08-2011, 07:28 AM

Lol, thanks Mike. I can't believe that the car has been down for a year and a half. Your car is looking great, have you decided what you are going to do on your front spoiler? The more I look at that hood the more I like it, I might have to ditch the fiberglass amx hood and pick up a hood like yours. How does your hood fit the car? Hows the gaps?

As far as the front spoiler goes, I’ve got to trim down my template to get it a bit smaller, then figure out the mounts. I also want to use the front blinker lights that are in the bumper for brake cooling ducts. Who knows when I’ll get to any of it.:rolleyes: As you can see, the hood isn't even properly painted yet, that's just black SEM primer.
The hood fits amazingly well for a race part. Way better than any AAR Cuda hood I’ve ever seen.
Here is a front shot where you can somewhat see the gaps. The biggest issue is that the Drivers side rear corner is a bit high. But even with that the fit was better than expected.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh116/343sharpstick/IMGP0194.jpg

Jtomas801

07-10-2011, 10:12 PM

Well, I have a small update. We haven't been working on the car as much as I had wanted to, but the roll bar is getting closer. Saturday, we got the main hoop tacked in place, down bars welded to the main hoop, diagonal and passenger harness bar tacked in place. Just have to finish the drivers harness bar and the main hoop components are done.

http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/47373/2079364300059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2079364300059418106fGjFsU)

Now, I just have to figure out how I want to build the door bars and how I want to connect those with the down bars in the engine bay.

Today, me and my Dad went to the autocross, speed stop challange, show car, and drags at the Auto Club Speedway in Fontana, CA. Got to see a lot of cool cars and even got a couple of my first rides ever on an autocross course! It was awesome, now I can't wait to drive my car again!!

Thanks,
Jon

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

07-11-2011, 10:02 AM

Jon,the roll cage is looking real good.:thumbsup:

69z

07-28-2011, 08:54 AM

Jtomas801

07-28-2011, 12:52 PM

Hi Jon,
I've just finished reading all 15 pages of your project! It really is looking good! You have come a long way since we spoke on the AMC forum. Very Impressive!!! You have some excellent people here for advice.
Regarding the rear axle, I may have missed it, but did you have any camber or toe-in built in?
Hope to see you at the track soon!

Is this Bob with the Black 69 AMX with minilites? The rear axle has no camber or toe in built in. I bought the first housing and hubs before I realized that I could put camber in, if I were to start from scratch now I would think about putting some camber in it.

Yeah, it has come pretty far, and I made a lot of changes to the original plan. I wasn't going to get this extreme with the suspension but then I found this site and all hell broke loose, lol.

Thanks,
Jon

Bryce

07-28-2011, 02:11 PM

Is this Bob with the Black 69 AMX with minilites? The rear axle has no camber or toe in built in. I bought the first housing and hubs before I realized that I could put camber in, if I were to start from scratch now I would think about putting some camber in it.

Yeah, it has come pretty far, and I made a lot of changes to the original plan. I wasn't going to get this extreme with the suspension but then I found this site and all hell broke loose, lol.

Thanks,
Jon

Depending on what hub you have I think you can buy different snouts with different camber built in?

mike343sharpstk

07-28-2011, 08:22 PM

Is this Bob with the Black 69 AMX with minilites? The rear axle has no camber or toe in built in. I bought the first housing and hubs before I realized that I could put camber in, if I were to start from scratch now I would think about putting some camber in it.

Yeah, it has come pretty far, and I made a lot of changes to the original plan. I wasn't going to get this extreme with the suspension but then I found this site and all hell broke loose, lol.

Thanks,
Jon

AKA hillbillybob?
The fella with the fastest Trunion car in the west? :thumbsup:

Also, This weekend is the Kenosha Homecoming:cheers:
I'll take a few pictures

Jtomas801

07-29-2011, 10:50 PM

AKA hillbillybob?
The fella with the fastest Trunion car in the west? :thumbsup:

Also, This weekend is the Kenosha Homecoming:cheers:
I'll take a few pictures

That's who I am thinking of. Bad ass car, one of the few along with yours, that lead me to turn corners instead of running in a straight line.

Mike, take as many pictures as you can for me, lol. Any word on that Javelin with the cage in it? has it been finished?

Thanks,
Jon

Jtomas801

07-29-2011, 10:59 PM

Depending on what hub you have I think you can buy different snouts with different camber built in?

Hey Bryce, hows it going?

I am running the Moser aluminum 5x5 GN hubs. Since you brought that up I had to look, I found some gn -1 camber snouts that would work. But, it would be a pain to cut the ones off my housing now and weld these on. I guess I can always try this next time around.

Thanks,
Jon

mike343sharpstk

08-04-2011, 09:57 AM

That's who I am thinking of. Bad ass car, one of the few along with yours, that lead me to turn corners instead of running in a straight line.

Mike, take as many pictures as you can for me, lol. Any word on that Javelin with the cage in it? has it been finished?

Thanks,
Jon

Just to let anyone reading this know what we are talking about....
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk64/69Hillbillybob/VP__55531-1-1.jpg
Brian over at bangshift posted some of my pictures. Great weekend! It's very surreal to see that many AMC's in one spot.:D
How about another progress report!? :bow:

Jtomas801

08-04-2011, 10:33 PM

Hey, Mike, saw the pictures on bangshift. Good job at making some headline news! Unfortunately, I don't have any updates. I have been working nights and weekends. But, I have been thinking and planing some of my next steps on the car.

I also traded a friend a bunch of stuff for a car trailer, just need to paint it to make it look good.

Thanks,
Jon

Jtomas801

10-10-2011, 12:45 PM

Well I haven't had time to work on the car lately, been helping my Dad work on the house. Stuff like change the electrical panel out and a bunch of other things, so the roof can be redone before it starts raining again.

But, I have made a big purchase, I bought a set of Ridetech triple adjustable coilovers from Scott (coolwelder62). I called Scott up Sunday a week ago, figured out what I needed, and got the coilovers on Saturday, that's fast service. I got the 5.2" stroke for the front and 6.3" stroke for the rear.

I am trying to figure out what I want for springs, but at the moment I am thinking about 600 lb in the front as I will be running the amc engine. At the moment I have 200 lbs springs for the rear as I was going to mount the coil overs vertically, but now I am going to mount them on an angle. For the rear I'm thinking about picking some 250 lb springs.

I will have to say, these are really awesome looking. One nice thing I like is you get a lot for your money, ridetech sends you the bearing spacers and reducers for 5/8" and 1/2" bolts, and you get the remote reservoir mounting clamps. Other brands just give you the coilovers and you have to purchase all that stuff separately.

Here is some quick pictures with my lack of photography skills:
http://inlinethumb63.webshots.com/26302/2035462400059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2035462400059418106dxqwKm)
http://inlinethumb48.webshots.com/37679/2477206680059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2477206680059418106SqZYVG)

Thanks,
Jon

Bryce

10-10-2011, 12:53 PM

Nice purchase.

Jtomas801

10-10-2011, 12:56 PM

Thanks Bryce,

Have you got a chance to get to an autocross with your car yet?

Jon

coolwelder62

10-11-2011, 06:40 AM

:thumbsup: Jon,it was great to get a chance to visit w/you on the phone last sun.I was I really belive in the qualtiy of the ride tech shock's and chassis componet's.Thank's Scott M.

Bryce

10-11-2011, 07:09 AM

Thanks Bryce,

Have you got a chance to get to an autocross with your car yet?

Jon

Not yet, I had a baby last month so my priorities have changed. I have been driving the car and enjoying it on the street.

csangster

11-09-2011, 10:03 PM

Okay, so it sounds like its trying to find a rod that will support the load more than the bolt (5/8 or 3/4)

I am trying to learn a little bit of this, so if you see any thing wrong please let me know.

While searching through google, I found the equation for shear strength:

tensile strength pounds/in2 x cross sectional area.

In the case of a -10 an bolt with a tensile strength of 160,000 psi and a cross-sectional area of 0.306640625 in2 at the full diameter

160000 pounds/in2 x 0.306640625 in2 = 49062.5 pounds

If 49062.5 pounds is single shear, you double it to get 98125 double shear, right? That should be the amount of force to shear the bolt?

Thanks,
Jon

Good evening,

Let me first say that I am extensively impressed with this build thread and all of the modifications. I have been wanting to build a Javelin just like this, and yours is one of inspiration..........very nice.

In a small effort to help make sure you build goes off well, I feel compelled to tell you that the above strength calculation is incorrect (I am a registered Professional Engineer and I perform these types of calculations for a living).

You are mixing your strength numbers when performing this calculation.

If you are trying to determine the load carrying capacity of your fastener in shear, you need to use the shear strength of the material, not the tensile strength. These are two entirely different measurements. The good thing is you can look on a website called MatWeb, find the material in question and it will give you nearly everything you need to know about that material, CTE, yield strength (tensile and shear), ultimate strength (tensile and shear), thermal conductivity......the list goes on.

The next thing you are missing is your factor of safety. You need to carry a factor of safety on your design to cover anything that you may not have thought about or considered. Generally, you can pick a factor of safety from 1.1X all the way up to 16X or more.........it just depends on how much risk you think you can take. For a suspension component, a factor of safety between 2 and 4 is a good place to start......the Carroll Smith's book that was mentioned earlier will have a better guide for selecting the factor of safety for your application.

As far as single shear vs. double shear is concerned, the shear strength of the fastener is what it is, when the fastener is in single shear, you are loading only one shear plane in the fastener, when the fastener is in double shear, you are loading two shear planes, thus doubling your strength of the fastener in shear.

While you are looking at shear strength of the fastener, keep in mind that the fastener is also stressed in bearing, you will need to make sure that the bearing surfaces don't have too much stress in them and causing plastic deformation of the fastener or the suspension components.

Additionally, the above calculations are all static calculations and do not apply to dynamic load cases. Sometimes you can increase your factor of safety if you are unable to properly calculate the dynamic stresses in a joint.

Dynamic stresses are important because they can cause failure by fatigue of the material, not by failure at the ultimate strength.

I'm rambling too much, I just wanted to make sure you taking everything into consideration for your build so something doesn't break on you and give you headaches later.

Again......very impressive and inspirational build.

Cheers,
Chris

coolwelder62

11-10-2011, 06:19 AM

Jon,I hope the shock install is going well for you.:thumbsup: Scott M.

Jtomas801

11-10-2011, 12:08 PM

Good evening,

Let me first say that I am extensively impressed with this build thread and all of the modifications. I have been wanting to build a Javelin just like this, and yours is one of inspiration..........very nice.

In a small effort to help make sure you build goes off well, I feel compelled to tell you that the above strength calculation is incorrect (I am a registered Professional Engineer and I perform these types of calculations for a living).

You are mixing your strength numbers when performing this calculation.

If you are trying to determine the load carrying capacity of your fastener in shear, you need to use the shear strength of the material, not the tensile strength. These are two entirely different measurements. The good thing is you can look on a website called MatWeb, find the material in question and it will give you nearly everything you need to know about that material, CTE, yield strength (tensile and shear), ultimate strength (tensile and shear), thermal conductivity......the list goes on.

The next thing you are missing is your factor of safety. You need to carry a factor of safety on your design to cover anything that you may not have thought about or considered. Generally, you can pick a factor of safety from 1.1X all the way up to 16X or more.........it just depends on how much risk you think you can take. For a suspension component, a factor of safety between 2 and 4 is a good place to start......the Carroll Smith's book that was mentioned earlier will have a better guide for selecting the factor of safety for your application.

As far as single shear vs. double shear is concerned, the shear strength of the fastener is what it is, when the fastener is in single shear, you are loading only one shear plane in the fastener, when the fastener is in double shear, you are loading two shear planes, thus doubling your strength of the fastener in shear.

While you are looking at shear strength of the fastener, keep in mind that the fastener is also stressed in bearing, you will need to make sure that the bearing surfaces don't have too much stress in them and causing plastic deformation of the fastener or the suspension components.

Additionally, the above calculations are all static calculations and do not apply to dynamic load cases. Sometimes you can increase your factor of safety if you are unable to properly calculate the dynamic stresses in a joint.

Dynamic stresses are important because they can cause failure by fatigue of the material, not by failure at the ultimate strength.

I'm rambling too much, I just wanted to make sure you taking everything into consideration for your build so something doesn't break on you and give you headaches later.

Again......very impressive and inspirational build.

Cheers,
Chris

Thank you very much for the information and the nice words. I am going to have to research this a bit more. I believe that the Lateral Dynamics 3 link uses 5/8" bolts with 5/8" hole and 3/4" shank, so at least I know that set up is tested and works.

Thanks again,
Jon

Jtomas801

11-10-2011, 12:20 PM

Jon,I hope the shock install is going well for you.:thumbsup: Scott M.

Shoot, I haven't touched the car in a few weeks but I have been working making some money. This weekend I am working Saturday and going to the NHRA finals on Sunday. Hopefully after we get a couple of these big jobs done I can get back working on the car in a couple weeks.

I hope Summit racing has some good coupons again like they did last year, I am thinking about getting a t-56, or if I can make up my mind on what front brakes I want to get.

Again Scott, congratulations on your latest build, the car came out great and it sounds like it performed really well for the lack of testing on it. I can't wait to see what the next build looks like.

Thanks,
Jon

csangster

11-10-2011, 12:49 PM

Thank you very much for the information and the nice words. I am going to have to research this a bit more. I believe that the Lateral Dynamics 3 link uses 5/8" bolts with 5/8" hole and 3/4" shank, so at least I know that set up is tested and works.

Thanks again,
Jon

Jon,

Sounds like you have it all under control. I apologize if I was spewing out too much information there.

I will watch your build with great admiration as it follows......I may use some of your ideas, if you don't mind.

Cheers,
Chris

Jtomas801

11-10-2011, 01:01 PM

Jon,

Sounds like you have it all under control. I apologize if I was spewing out too much information there.

I will watch your build with great admiration as it follows......I may use some of your ideas, if you don't mind.

Cheers,
Chris

No need to apologize, if I post something wrong or build some thing that might not be strong enough, I'd rather some one let me know now, before the car ever gets driven or some thing bad happens. So I really appreciate your advice.

And of coarse, you can use any of my ideas, because at some point I got them from some one else, lol.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

11-10-2011, 01:25 PM

Thank's Jon,Albert car turned out good,and worked well.My son Brandon is wanting a car so maybe will help him with something.I think I will put the Javelin on hold for now.Need to sell the orange camaro first.:thumbsup:

Jtomas801

11-10-2011, 01:29 PM

Well yeah, you got to save up for the 9000 rpm supercharged, drysumped, ls engine for the Javelin first, lol. What ever the car is, it will be a awesome build.

Thanks,
Jon

Bryce

11-10-2011, 02:38 PM

Thank you very much for the information and the nice words. I am going to have to research this a bit more. I believe that the Lateral Dynamics 3 link uses 5/8" bolts with 5/8" hole and 3/4" shank, so at least I know that set up is tested and works.

Thanks again,
Jon

FYI

Example 4130
Tensile Strength, Ultimate 841 MPa 122000 psi
Tensile Strength, Yield 655 MPa 95000 psi

Jtomas801

11-28-2011, 11:19 PM

Well, I broke down. I am now an LS engine owner.

I just picked up this LS2 with less than 30k on it, came with a truck intake (not gonna use that), a LS7 cam with springs (stock ls2 cam is still in engine) and I believe ls7 injectors for $1500 off craigslist.
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/P1000831.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/P1000830.jpg

Seemed like a good deal, now I got to figure out what to do with it. Get a intake and throw my Dad's old 750 Demon on it or go efi. Hell maybe some ls3 heads.

But first, I got to get a T-56, an oil pan and a quicktime bellhousing. So I can position it in the car to make the engine and transmission mounts.

Now I have to sell all my AMC engine stuff, Who needs a all standard 390?

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

11-29-2011, 02:01 PM

Now that's a great motor choice.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Jtomas801

11-29-2011, 02:33 PM

Thanks, I am hoping it works out good. At the moment I am think of just putting the ls2 carb intake on it with the msd controller, check the bottom end, arp rod bolts and maybe a small cam shaft, then just stick it in the car.

I want to do a stroker with good heads and a big camshaft, but I will be better off doing that as an upgrade later down the road after I get the car running and the suspension sorted out a bit.

Thanks,
Jon

asifnyc

11-29-2011, 09:21 PM

congrats Jon. that's going to be killer!

Jtomas801

11-30-2011, 01:02 PM

Thanks Asif, it is going to really lighten the front end up. What I like is, if some thing breaks, I could go to any parts house to get parts. Plus it doesn't hurt that my Dad works at a chevy dealer.

Hey Asif, do you want or know any body that needs an new internal balance aluminum flywheel for a six cylinder (works with '72 and up v8s)?

Thanks,
Jon

1badsc

03-25-2012, 02:03 PM

Jtomas801

03-26-2012, 10:07 PM

Hi Jon been watching this build been an AMC guy for a long time even worked at American Motors started in 1973 anyway the Javelin is sure to be a head turner whatever engine is in it just about done with my 68 Javelin here is a picture for some inspiration Keep up the great work.... David http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/Koolmagumn/1968%20Javelin/jav196.jpg

Thanks for the inspiration David, your car looks great. What does it have for running gear?

I haven't been working on the car lately, had to buy a new computer and then the damn transmission went out on my 06 chevy 2500hd, still pisses me off, it only had 80,000 on it.

I am going to be ordering some parts here in a few weeks and get back to work on the car. Hopefully I will be posting some good updates soon.

Thanks,
Jon

1badsc

03-27-2012, 09:00 PM

Hey Jon ya that would tick me off too!! The Javelin has a 360 4speed little cam and 3:54 posi Really like what you have done so far besides all good thinks take time o yea still have the amc engine from your Jav

Jtomas801

03-27-2012, 10:19 PM

I still have the 232 that came out of this car. I had a complete 69 390 out of another car, but all I have left of that is the block, heads, intake manifold and oil pan.

That 360 4 speeds sounds like a great combo, should be fun to drive.

Thanks,
Jon

1badsc

04-09-2012, 09:57 PM

any updates ...may know some interested in the engine parts ...got my Jav sitting the way I want http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/Koolmagumn/1968%20Javelin/jav237.jpg

Jtomas801

04-09-2012, 11:44 PM

Wow, the car looks great with it lowered like that, great job. I really like the mod pak strip too. What suspension mods have you made?

If you want you can pm me for my info, I also got a amc t-10 with hurst shifter, a couple of stock bellhousings, and the front and rear seats out of my car that I just redid, if you know any one that is interested in that.

Not much to update, planing on redoing some of the rear suspension, I wasn't completely happy with the way it was turning out. Just received the crossmember from Detroit Speed and I should be getting my new lca mounts and billet coil over mounts from Ridetech on Wednesday.

With the Ridetech billet bracket, it mounts the coilover in single shear, which I was trying to get away from, but it uses a 5/8" stud instead of 1/2". Why I decided to get these, is that it offsets the coil over about 1 5/16". This combined with the wider Ridetech lca brackets, I can offset the bottom of the coilover 1-7/8" per side toward the wheel compared to what they would be now.

Also I am changing out the crossmember that is in the car now with one that DSE uses with their quadra-link. This will give me more room for the coil over, maybe possible to run a longer coilover if needed, and I won't have to sheet metal around the roll bar as the crossmember will double as a close out panel.

This takes me a couple of steps back, but I will be happier with the new setup, and it will make life easier later. The more I look around this site, pro-touring.com and others, the more I learn. That's good 'n all, but if I keep changing things I will never get this car done, lol.

I am also trying to figure out if I want to stay with a panhard bar or a watts link. If I did the watts link, I think I would pick up a fays2 universal kit, but I have that thing with single shear stuff(not that single shear is bad). The other thing is that I need to locate my fuel cell as far forward as possible, thus will make it difficult, if not impossible, to change the bellcrank position with the fuel cell in the car.

At the moment I think I will be doing a panhard bar. It's cheaper, possibly lighter, all double shear, no interference with the fuel cell. We will just have to see when I start mocking up things in the car.

Well sorry for the long post and all my ramblings, its been awhile since I have updated this thread with anything worth while and even longer since I have worked on the car. I should be making some progress soon.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

04-10-2012, 06:50 AM

any updates ...may know some interested in the engine parts ...got my Jav sitting the way I want http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/Koolmagumn/1968%20Javelin/jav237.jpg1Badsc,you should start your own thread.You have an amazing AMC.:thumbsup:

Jtomas801

05-13-2012, 09:12 PM

Well small update, just to show the project is not dead, lol.

I had a little bit of time here and there this week to work on the car. I had to remove the old rear crossmember that I installed a while ago, but first I needed to add reinforcement so the frame rails didn't move. Got that done, then I torched out the crossmember (got to remember to buy new hoses) and ground the rails smooth.

Today, I started working on the crossmember that I bought from DSE. I measured about 30 different times and to my surprise, it actually dropped in the first time (I don't get that lucky to often.)

I will have to clearance the crossmember to clear the 3rd link bracket and the top of the rear end housing, but it was a good start.

http://inlinethumb44.webshots.com/47531/2786323710059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2786323710059418106wjzzgK)

http://inlinethumb52.webshots.com/49203/2963092620059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2963092620059418106bgimaR)

http://inlinethumb01.webshots.com/50240/2962473370059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2962473370059418106SgSlLk)

Just got my lca brackets from Ridetech, they are a very nice piece, made out of 3/16" steel and all the link holes are in the perfect spot that I need. To bad the coilover mounts I ordered from Ridetech didn't work out, they were really nice also. I sent my Hyperco springs back to get different rates and free heights as I originally bought the springs for a set of Afco coilovers, I should be seeing them any day now. I want to thank Kyle Nichter at Ridetech for taking the time to help me out and sending me the lca dimensions so I could make sure they would work for me.
http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/4182/2498712270059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2498712270059418106ZyGqbL)

I also just realized that I have not updated the thread on front down bars. We got this done a few months ago:
http://inlinethumb44.webshots.com/51307/2965490100059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2965490100059418106keYbCE)

http://inlinethumb11.webshots.com/48650/2541539670059418106S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2541539670059418106niPCvJ)

The down bars tie into a crossbar under the dash that is welded to the hinge/kickpanel area. The crossbar will tie into the the door bar later on.

Next Saturday is the annual socal AMC show at the NHRA museum, so I will be there trying to sell some parts and checking out the cars. Then Sunday, I am leaving to Petaluma, ca for a couple days for work, so no time to work on the car.

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

05-14-2012, 04:00 PM

Look's Great Jon.You are going to have part's from just about every good supplier on your car.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Jtomas801

05-15-2012, 09:25 PM

Look's Great Jon.You are going to have part's from just about every good supplier on your car.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Thanks Scott. By the time done, I might not be offended when some calls my car All Makes Combined :_paranoid

Thanks,
Jon

coolwelder62

05-16-2012, 05:49 AM

Thanks Scott. By the time done, I might not be offended when some calls my car All Makes Combined :_paranoid

Thanks,
JonAMC,All Makes Combined.That's Good.:thumbsup: :lol:

Jtomas801

12-09-2012, 10:52 PM

Well yet again it has been awhile since I posted or even looked at this thread. I see my pictures disappeared, so I will have to take car of that.

I haven't done much actual work to the car, but still planning, saving and slowly buying parts.

I now have my front and rear brake setup. For the front I scored a set of used (for one testing weekend) Brake Man F4 4 1.875" piston calipers with 1.25" x 13" procast rotors. I think I will send these out and get rebuilt as these look to have been used hard. Even after the calipers get rebuilt and a new set of pads, I will be less than half of what this kit costs new.
Picture comparing the front F4 and rear F3 caliper
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/P1010016.jpg

As for the rear, I went to the GMR. I got the Brake Man F3 1.5" 4 piston calipers with compound #82 pads and .810" x 12.19" kit including The GMR's laser cut weld on caliper brackets.
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/P1010006.jpg

I also picked up a set of Jake's Rod Shop tubular C6 control arms with Howe racing ball joints and spherical bearings. These look like really nice pieces.
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/P1010017.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/P1010018.jpg
Any one need a new set of stock C6 control arms?

Also, here is a sneek peek at what is happening on the rear of my car:
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx192/jtomas801/Untitled.png
It's a very basic early stage 3d drawing of the new frame rails and rear suspension. I have changed and added alot of she components so far, I just have to draw it up in 3d still.

Thanks,
Jon

monte427

12-12-2012, 03:53 AM

nice javelin.i used to have a 70' javelin sst with a 71'401 and 727 trans.i wish i still had that car.

Jtomas801

12-12-2012, 10:33 PM

nice javelin.i used to have a 70' javelin sst with a 71'401 and 727 trans.i wish i still had that car.

Thanks, they are cool cars. It's cool to see some of the AMC's getting attention on these boards like Jimi Day's AMX and Ron's full chassis AMX build.

Thanks,
Jon

bulletpruf

04-10-2015, 05:22 PM

Nice build! Did it ever get finished?

Scott

Jtomas801

04-11-2015, 08:42 PM

bulletpruf

07-03-2015, 11:40 PM

Hey Scott,

Unfortunately, the car is a long way to go still. I decided to build a full chassis for it instead of what I had. Plus, I had some problems with the front subframe. The car is on the backburner right now, my parents are remodeling their house so most of my free time is spent there.

I might get the car rolling this summer and I might end up selling it as a project. I am looking at a 04 GTO at the moment so I can go racing some time soon.

How is your car coming along Scott? It's been awhile since I've seen an update.

Thanks,
Jon

Jon -

Not much to update. Found someone who fabbed up some custom upper control arms - stock pickup points, but completely adjustable. PM me if you want his info; he does nice work at a reasonable price. Need to pick up some coil overs for the front -- Freakride has some that will work.

Other than that, it's been languishing in storage for the past 2 years while I was stationed in Korea. Was also spending my $$$$ finishing up a 68 GTO convt -- pump gas 455, TH400, 3.90, Nordic Blue/White/White. I built the engine and trans before I headed to Korea and a buddy of mine did the body and paint. Should hit the high 11's in the quarter if the planets line up just right.

Anyway, I had planned to get back on the Javelin when I got back to the states, but the Army sent us to Italy. We got here (Naples) a few days ago. Figure I'll pick up a 60's vintage Alfa (GTV 1750?) or Fiat (Dino 2.4 coupe?) to wrench on while I'm here. If we end up living off base with a decent garage, I may stuff the Javelin in a storage container to ship it over and finish it.

Shoot me a pm if/when you decide to sell your car.

Scott

grendel

12-28-2017, 08:04 AM

I hear that this is making progress with some Ron Sutton magic?

Where's the pics? :y0!:

Jtomas801

01-06-2018, 11:22 PM

Hey John,

Sorry I missed your post. Yes, there is some Ron Sutton magic happening over here, I have the front and rear subframes. Making a little bit of progress, but this is not going to happen very fast. I will get some pictures up in a little bit.

Thanks,
Jon

grendel

01-07-2018, 07:46 AM

Hi Jon,
I can't wait to see the progress.

John

Jtomas801

01-07-2018, 11:58 PM

I am thinking about starting a new thread for this car because this one is pretty messy with all the changes and pictures missing. But for now, I will keep it going.

So about this time last year I decided I was going to try to get my motivation up and start working on the Javelin again. I put the car on back burner a couple years ago because I was just tired of working on it and dealing with all the problems that came up, mainly all the issues I had with the C6 subframe that I had. Also, I just wasn't happy with how it was coming out.

I had decided that I was going to build a full chassis, it was what I wanted to do from the beginning. The body and what was left of the original unibody frame rails was just being held up by jack stands, so I needed better way to level the body and build the new chassis. So, I needed to build a chassis table. This is chassis v2.0, I made an arch out of the first one, lol.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4738/39540511532_63623dcf05_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23f4svs)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/23f4svs) by Jonathan Feltis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156332480@N03/), on Flickr

It is made out of 4" I-beam 10' long, 3"x3"x3/16" box tubing for the legs and 2"x3"x1/8" for the crossmembers. The crossmembers are welded to the legs, which are bolted to the I-beams so later I can take it apart and store it. The picture shows the table with 3/4" bolts for adjusters which I later changed out to adjustable swivel feet.

Next, I moved the table to the back, got the car on it and all leveled out. I removed most of what was left of the original frame rails, floor and rockers. After that I started to work on the rockers. I had to cut about 2/3rds of them out and then rebuilt them using 2"x3"x.083" rectangular tubing.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4637/24702562127_26902c89a1_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/DCT66z)20170725_180548 (https://flic.kr/p/DCT66z) by Jonathan Feltis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156332480@N03/), on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4738/39570005431_55274dda41_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23hEC1X)20170730_180638 (https://flic.kr/p/23hEC1X) by Jonathan Feltis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156332480@N03/), on Flickr

As for the new chassis components, I decided to go with Ron Sutton. I purchased a welded front TA clip and a welded GT clip with a watts link for the rear. Once they were finished building the clips I made the 820 mile round trip from socal one Saturday to pick them up and to check out his shop. Ron has been really great to work with. Especially with me because I am only buying a few pieces at a time as funds allow it. Plus, this helps me stay busy working on the car instead of waiting to save the money to buy everything at one time.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4693/39570115621_96a37a1783_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23hFbLM)20171202_103453 (https://flic.kr/p/23hFbLM) by Jonathan Feltis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156332480@N03/), on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4601/27793819119_886b854c6c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Jm3A6V)20171203_132049 (https://flic.kr/p/Jm3A6V) by Jonathan Feltis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156332480@N03/), on Flickr

I got the front and rear clips squared up and clamped down to the table. I think I measured this thing a million times and every which way I could imagine to make sure it was right. Then got the side rails cut to length and welded it together.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4641/39570097251_7d16f42c3e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23hF6j4)20171224_101103 (https://flic.kr/p/23hF6j4) by Jonathan Feltis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156332480@N03/), on Flickr

Currently, I am working on the rear crossmember to support the body, I don't have any pictures of that yet.

So that is every thing to date. My goal for this year is to get the chassis finished, mount the engine and transmission, then get the roll cage done.

Thanks,
Jon