OZ Duster

[OZ Duster]

Hello everyone, have been watching and admiring the fine cars on the site and am still amazed at what people achieve. Living in Australia makes access to american iron at reasonable prices difficult, a camaro or GTO is just too much of a financial hit at the moment.

I had been working on a 65 Falcon hardtop for some three years before the restrictions on doing what I really wanted became to much of an obstacle

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSCN0481.jpg

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSCN0812.jpg

so sold it and moved onto the next project.

A 1974 Plymouth Duster. Had been looking at a Pontiac hardtop until I layed my eyes on this sitting in the shadows. I had never seen or heard of these before and found they are as rare as rocking horse poop in Australia. This one has newish paint, no rust and is straight as.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSC01475.jpg

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSC01473.jpg

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSC01477.jpg

Unfortunately I only had the car a week before the motor spun a bearing and needed replacement. Now the next step will be sorting the suspension now with 17 and 18 inch rims and modern rubber underneath. After a couple of performance oriented toys this one will need a lot of work to improve the handling and then the bench front seat will need to go, dont want to be sliding over to a right hand drive inadvertently:D

Any suggestions on suitable mods would be appreciated as the information base and suppliers over here is very limited, I get a lot of blank expressions when I mention the car and even stranger looks when people clap eyes on it.:cheers:

[XcYZ]

Welcome aboard. We have quite a few members from Australia. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

[rjsjea]

For the Duster.....
www.bigblockdart.com and www.forabodiesonly.com

Also check out RMS (Reilly Motor Sports) or FirmFeel for suspension upgrade parts

Good lookin car

[lil427z]

cool.
rick k:cheers:

[98ssnova]

Very nice car down under... what are your plans for the motor now that you spunthe bearing?

[OZ Duster]

Very nice car down under... what are your plans for the motor now that you spunthe bearing?

The new motor as gone in. I am going to tear down the old engine and assess the damage. If things work out it will get worked over for some more poke.

At the moment just want to get her out on the road and enjoy it, all of the intended work will be done on the side to limit the time off the road.

[OZ Duster]

The new motor as gone in. I am going to tear down the old engine and assess the damage. If things work out it will get worked over for some more poke.

At the moment just want to get her out on the road and enjoy it, all of the intended work will be done on the side to limit the time off the road.

While sorting some crap in the shed found twenty minutes to pull the heads of the old motor. This engine must have got an absolute flogging from the owner in the states. On closer inspeection there is a lot of damage to the cam lobes. I dont think they are related to the dropped piston as a lot of the nicks and dags look old.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSCN6620.jpg

The piston has let go of the rod. No damage to the the top of the bore or the rest for that matter. There are small marks in the piston heads from the valves which I think may be some movement from the crank, and probably some bearing damage to boot.

Will drop the sump off and have a look at the rods etc later in the week.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSCN6617.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSCN6615.jpg

[mikespeed95]

sorry bout your engine troubles, what engine did you put in for now?

[OZ Duster]

sorry bout your engine troubles, what engine did you put in for now?

A 318 reco with a mild cam (specs unknown) little lumpier than the old motor.

As time and money permit will look at working the old motor over.

[OZ Duster]

Entered the car in a show next saturday so time for a clean up. A few hours with a machine polisher and a good coat of wax.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSCN6974.jpg

When cleaning inside decided that the dash just was not going to cut it.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSCN6969.jpg

After a lot of carefull masking and then a quick spray of gloss black to eliminate the groty green. Has really changed the feel of the interior looks 100% better. Now just need to replace the crash pad and restore the instrument cluster with some new guage inserts and a new overlay.

[GregWeld]

That is the weirdest engine damage I've ever seen.... it almost appears that the PISTON was revolving in the bore and getting smacked by the valves... and we know that just didn't happen... because there is nothing that would rotate the piston. Unless the rod somehow is "loose/broken" and hanging down just enough to get touched by the crank and that somehow rotated it... But that doesn't sound plausible either, since that would really have to major interference in the crankcase. Now I'm just dying to see the bottom-end.

[OZ Duster]

Have decided to do some work with the boot. Removed the Sub box after disconneting the amp and cables.

The boot goes a fair way back under the rear parcel shelf so I am thinking of using the space for storage, jack, tools etc.

Mocked up a false floor and worked out what angles to use. Still striking some problems with the fuel tank filler tube. Need to work out if the side panels are going to be vertical or slope in toward the wheel recess.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSCN7025.jpg

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSCN7024.jpg

This is close to what I have in mind,

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/mopp_0808_08_z1970_plymouth_dusters.jpg

Other than using the sides of the boot for storage (limited in size) I also like the idea of the exposed spare wheel. I still need some room for a smaller single sub box as the twin 10" subs will get the flick. Any suggestions welcome.

[4thechallenge]

I'm very impressed... I'm glad to see another mopar!
Great color combo and awsome look

[OZ Duster]

Completed the first stage of the boot fit out.

Measured up and cut the main part of the floor in 10mm MDF and the outer sections in some left over particle board used on door trims.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSCN7028.jpg

Cut out the recess for the wheel. Measured five times cut once. Then measured up the carpet and carefully cut around the perimeter and then the fuel filler tube. I left a little bit of carpet overhanging the wheel recess for a tight fit. Wheel went in nice and snug.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSCN7030.jpg

The Sub box was refitted and the dodgy wiring fixed up to avoid a fire. :raisedeye

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSCN7032.jpg

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSCN7034.jpg

That will do for now (nothing like being stooped over for a couple of hours to stuff your back). Next stage will be the side panels and mounting points for a few tools and cleaning gear.

[rjsjea]

The spare looks pretty good in that trunk..

[OZ Duster]

Pulled the Duster out of the shed two days ago and noticed a knocking noise as the engine came down to idle. At first thought it was something rattling loose but now seem to think it is coming from inside the block. Off idle and with a few revs it goes away but returns as the RPM drops down to idle. It is not a set rythym but it definately gives me that sinking feeling. All the fluids are fine its not overheating and gave no indication of power loss on the run out to willowbank the other sunday. Hope im not up for a rebuild......

Am i missing something obvious or is it a big end bearing like im thinking?

[Moabdude]

Nice:thumbsup:
I love the Duster.

What brand/model wheels are those?

[OZ Duster]

Nice:thumbsup:
I love the Duster.

What brand/model wheels are those?

American Racing Torqlites, 18x8 and 17x7

[Bryce]

welcome, nice falcon!

[chevmech1969]

Welcome, Nice Duster

[OZ Duster]

Took the Duster in to get the Tune done and a couple of runs on the Dyno. First problem was the mystery rattle came back, :rolleyes: After a bit of stuffing around we found that despite my best efforts of securing the flex plate to the torque convertor, the bolts were bottoming out in the blind holes resulting in the rattle at idle.

Once sorted and a few adjustments made three runs were made to set everything up. Then two power runs peaking at an earth shattering 167.5 Hp at 136 km/h in third. AFR dropped from 14.3 down to 13.2 at full throttle, little rich, but on the safe side. I suppose thats fine for a stockish 318 "Cruiser" for now....

Recomended to have the dissy graphed and sort out the blown exhaust gaskets, a few more things for the to-do list :D

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/25082010001.jpg

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSCN7316.jpg

[GregWeld]

Who told you that 13:2 A/F @WOT is "rich"?? Most times I see 12:8 or 12:5's at WOT...

Not arguing -- just wondering...

[OZ Duster]

Who told you that 13:2 A/F @WOT is "rich"?? Most times I see 12:8 or 12:5's at WOT...

Not arguing -- just wondering...

From what I understood the stoichiometric air/fuel mixture is approximately 14.7. Any mixture less than 14.7 to 1 is considered to be a rich mixture. I told him given the relatively stock nature of the engine some efficiency would be good all things considered.

Would a figure of 12.8 see an increase in Hp or would it just use more fuel?

I am assuming that the 14.7 is the peak efficiency figure for petrol and lowering the ratio provides a safer level of tune rather than leaning out the mix and increasing heat. Still new to this technical side of things myself so any input is appreciated.

[GregWeld]

Air fuel ratio is a relative game.... idle is one thing -- cruise part throttle low load is another - and Wide Open Throttle is another...

You're right 14.7:1 is perfect -- but maximum effort WOT requires mixtures around 12.8 or 12.5.... which is why I asked you - because you seemed to want to see 14.7 there and that would NOT be good.

Idle just needs to be what the motor wants -- which is what an idle adjustment screw is for -- you want this adjusted for "max" RPMs (without touching the throttle/idle adjustment) and vacuum. Some motors need a A/F ratio fatter to achieve that than others... so it just "is what it is".

Cruising - light throttle - light load - can even be leaner than 14.7 -- new fuel injected cars might even hit mid 15's. You can go to 14.7 and be "comfortable" with that.

WOT needs to be where the motor wants it (thus a dyno - to find what that is) but is typically mid to high 12's even in a modern EFI motor.

If the car runs well - doesn't buck - doesn't ping - idles fine -- then you're good to go.

TIMING will actually make a far larger difference in HP/TQ than a perfect fuel ratio.

[OZ Duster]

New Head unit and front speakers (were in my old car however never hooked up)

Old Speakers and the cheap and nasty wood mount
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSCN7453.jpg

Kick Panels completed with new Kicker 6" with proper mounting blocks
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSCN7458.jpg

Kick Panel installed
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSCN7473.jpg

Pioneer Head Unit and iPhone
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i286/MACVICTA/DSCN7475.jpg


Sound is fantastic compared to the sony stuff. Can hook up the iPhone to the head unit. The temporary home is the Ashtray however, a centre console will go in when the bucket seats are purchased. Just have to wait for my bonus from work.