View Full Version : Powdercoat and rust...
While watching Tv (Musclecar on Power Block) they were powdercoating a frame. It had A LOT of surface rust on it.
The powdercoating place shot right over it and baked it. Is that ok to do?
I had assumed that like paint you would want a CLEAN surface before applying any kind of coating.
Does powdercoating seal it up and keep the rust from spreading or are they going to have troubles down the road with the Impala frame?
DRJDVM's '69
02-21-2010, 11:42 AM
I was thinking the exact same thing when I watched the episode this AM!!!
The only thing I could think of was that some of the cleaning solutions they used killed the surface rust and left a "rust protection" coating that gave it that "gold/brown" haze and what we were seeing wasnt actually rust.
I would think if it was rust, there would be issues. I was suprised that they didnt media blast the frame again.
R0LLDAMTIDE
02-21-2010, 11:44 AM
i dont know but i cannot imagine that that would be the best way to do that...... im kinda like you, i would have thought the prep would be close to that of prepping for paint....who knows...
I was thinking the exact same thing when I watched the episode this AM!!!
The only thing I could think of was that some of the cleaning solutions they used killed the surface rust and left a "rust protection" coating that gave it that "gold/brown" haze and what we were seeing wasnt actually rust.
I would think if it was rust, there would be issues. I was suprised that they didnt media blast the frame again.
Ned, did you notice the shot of them hooking up the ground lead? There was a TON of rust right there and it looked like it was more than just surface crud from that day.
I don't know much about the whole process but it just didn't look right to me from a common sense point.
ItDoRun
02-21-2010, 12:25 PM
I saw that too! Was it funny to you that they were bragging about they're powder coating system after showing that scene? Terrible promotion IMO. They wouldn't get my business.
Not to mention, the finished product looked like crud because of the pitting.
Rod P
02-21-2010, 12:51 PM
Paint or Powder coating over rust is a NO NO! it will always continue to rust It has to be neutralized in some form The easiest is POR 15 that seals oxygen out to stop the rust (even that uses a neutralizer) or a converter that combines with the rust form a new rust resistant base :thumbsup:
NsaneHotrodz
02-21-2010, 06:55 PM
The guys that powdercoated my last frame let me stay throughout the whole process. I asked the same question about the surface rust after they pressure washed it, and he said that was normal.
MODO Innovations
02-21-2010, 08:32 PM
I would say no rust anywhere. I had a bumper done years ago and it bubbled up in one area, after peeling it back, it was surface rust that caused it to bubble.
NsaneHotrodz
02-22-2010, 07:32 PM
How else would you get a frame completely clean without soaking it in a cleaning solution, pressure washing, then baking it. Without the surface rust?
Rod P
02-22-2010, 09:37 PM
once the area is cleaned in what ever fashion you want you need to protect the surface with a zinc phosphate coating (http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-fast-etch.html), there are other coatings out there also that do the same thing and many top shops can recommend what they prefer to use, just remember any rust is rust, many try to justify it by saying is only surface rust, the only way it will stop it is not allowing the rust to oxidize (oxygenate) by sealing the rust completely or removing completely, Paint, chrome, vinyl tops, body wraps, all let oxygen in :faint:
Bakaruda
02-23-2010, 11:40 AM
No they did not powdercoat over the rust. I know the shop that did it. They just editied for TV. It was sand blasted the preasure washed baked then coated baked again.
kart34
02-23-2010, 04:42 PM
I wanted to scream !!! WE sandblast with 120 grit shot, then do a 3 stage phophate wash with a anti/rust sealer . If needed we then epoxy powdercoat prime. Then we would apply the powder topcoat.
I was embarrassed by the way they powdercoated that Impala frame. It is not the way we do it. www.extremepowdercoating.net new wedsite launches Friday. There will be many pictures of the correct way of powdercoating.
NsaneHotrodz
02-23-2010, 05:43 PM
Thanks for clearing that up!:thumbsup:
elitecustombody
02-23-2010, 06:51 PM
Actually, they need to be sandblasted clean before powder coat. Although, I found that powder coat chips to easy, so I recommend saving your money and getting them painted. Easier to touchup too.
Jeff
It's time to find a new powdercoater, if powdercoating is done right, it will not chip easy at all, it's some of the toughest finishes
GregWeld
02-24-2010, 01:32 PM
I agree with Stephan --- Powder coating is tough stuff.... and many times you can bang it with a hammer - and dent the metal and barely even scuff the coating... if it's chipping -- then something isn't right.
elitecustombody
02-24-2010, 07:18 PM
Actually DSE did it on my rearend. From a local powder coater that is located near them in Mooresville, NC. It was base and clear coat powder coat, and yes it did chip. How easy was it to chip? Well, just a floor jack under the rear end with a towel covering the jack saddle. Comparing the gloss from the powder coat to the single stage paint. Well, I prefer staying with paint. Lot of orange peel in powder coat.
We repainted the rearend in different shade of silver to match the fine poly in my marina blue paint. It has been hit a few times and it doesn't seem to chip as compared to the powder coat. Cost is much cheaper than powder coat. I talked to Kyle Tucker at DSE and he said that all their show cars are done in paint on their suspension components.
Jeff
as I said before, find another powdercoater who doesn't cut corners,2 most important steps are blasting and etching powdercoat primer, I've had countless parts done by a local powdercoating facility ,from suspension,3 piece and cast wheels to racks, bumpers,stainless trim,exhaust tips and this stuff does not come off ,I've even tried razor blade,scraping it with scraper doesn't do anything but scratch the surface, so it's obvious,whoever did your rear end skipped a few important steps,
and I forgot to add, it's alot cheaper than paint, I actually own paint/body shop and I prefer powdercoating over paint,just for example, they charge me $40 to do a full size truck bumper ,$20 a piece for 22" center of 3-piece wheels, and as comparison, I'd charge no less than $200 to paint a bumper and $75 a piece for 22" wheel center
kart34
02-26-2010, 04:32 AM
If the powder is chipping that easy SOMETHING is wrong it is probably a pre-treatment chemical problem or the parts are not fully BAKED AND THE POWDER IS NOT CURED.
elitecustombody
02-26-2010, 06:11 PM
Read post #43
:lolhit:
I believe it was $200 for the rear for base and clear coat powder coat. The cost of Limco single stage silver was only $40. We scuffed the rearend and re-shot it. Labor cost was zero! We also did the Quadra-link components in the paint. DSE doesn't recommend you powder coat, the quadralink components. (Due to bushing inside.) So people do it, but it is not recommended. What is cool about the paint is the shine, especially in sunlight.
Oh, wasn't you the shop that paid like $6100 for media blasting? http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=19394&highlight=blasting Need to get your powder coater to do the blasting.
Jeff
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