1970 Camaro RS Operation Budget LSx [Archive]

1970camaroRS

01-19-2010, 08:22 PM

Here's what I'm starting with. A multi colored 1970 Camaro RS that I've owned for about 10 years.

Running 12.6 @106 at Seattle with the 355" SBC, stock vortec heads and a mild roller cam. I was daily driving this thing then.
http://b6.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/00393/64/48/393808446_l.jpg

Burnout in the rain. So easy a caveman can do it.
http://b4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/00393/45/29/393809254_l.jpg

One legged burn-out with the 305 shortly after I got it when I was 17 in 1999.
http://b2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/00393/24/21/393811242_l.jpg

The engine combo that only ever ran two city blocks...and layed rubber both ways. 454 and B&M 177 mini blower.
http://b3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/01469/35/79/1469669753_l.jpg

http://b3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/01469/31/13/1469673113_l.jpg

And my fearless shop helper, Duncan.
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/94/l_e6fea022c41e4717a5320b6d6eeb7419.jpg

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/102/l_e1ffb493ceff447e80e74f7ddeec92ac.jpg

-Nathan

1970camaroRS

01-19-2010, 08:23 PM

I plan on making a go at installing a 550 hp LQ4 on a fairly low budget. Just a smidge over $3,000 including the price of beer.

I have a good foundation with a suspension that was rebuilt a few years ago with Eibach front springs, a huge Hellwig front sway bay, Z28 5-leaf springs and poly bushings all around, including on the subframe to body mount.

I will be keeping my built up 700r4 and 3,000rpm stall converter. As well as the 10-bolt with an Auburn pro posi, superior axels and 3.73 gears.

After I get everything in place I will adapt to my new motor a 3" X-pipe with Spintech split case mufflers exiting out the sides that I used on a previous 355 SBC.

Here are some parts I scored for cheap, and a little bit of progess.

After discovering watery oil in my supercharged 454, I decided to rebuild it and go with a N/A setup. To help finance this project, I put the B&M mini blower up for sale. The local guy that got a hold of me said he had a complete 6.0L LQ4 GenIII motor out of a 2002 Silverado truck. Although my supercharger was worth slightly more than his motor, we decided on a straight up trade if he delivered the motor to my house.

Water in engine
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/70/l_992ebef73165472e9736b275c262b012.jpg

My 6.0L laying in wait
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/103/l_5c872a0b93394532a423a87588d0066f.jpg
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/92/l_9f48cecca505427587e1adf365470a2a.jpg

So far I have picked up a set of used ported LS6 heads that flow 320cfm @ .600 lift for $600 with valves and seals, no springs. They're in great shape, almost new. The CNC port job on them is beautiful.
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/12/l_4328b1acfcbb4214a0a45a3786d2df7c.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/37/l_0702f46fc593406488fa1a7e077c3ab5.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/18/l_062d6a76e3644501b8315bd3892e431d.jpg

I also got a used camshaft, a G5x3 which is in the 234 @ .050 and .600 lift area on the intake and bigger on the exhaust. It's cut on a 114LSA to pick up a bit of vaccume(efi aplication cam, but you can't find many used short LSA cams for sale). I grabbed some slightly used PRC springs and comp R lifters. Cost me $500.
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/13/l_8f84c416f62e4912ac59e16bf598f53c.jpg
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/12/l_848dce8c0cd94a6d8b2b6a72db270b32.jpg

I got a used ignition controller for $200 as I'm planning on running a victor jr carb intake and my 850cfm holley.
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/30/l_5b211edcacb34a19a1df81fa5ac0178e.jpg

Should be a fun project.

-Nathan

1970camaroRS

01-19-2010, 08:24 PM

Drained some "Oil" out of the 454 before I pulled it.

Here's 16 quarts of water that came out the oil pan:
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/18/l_167a0948dbc44ff2bed35fc53404e31e.jpg

And the "oil" that came out after it...another 12 quarts of this crap came out.
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/42/l_a289d0bd8b984e7fa366e7d28e3555b5.jpg
and yes, I paid for not pulling that grass off the headers. I dropped it into the oil pan later that night.

Here's what the lifter valley looked like before I started.
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/83/l_947579bbda40409190c17a7e6e6bbcf3.jpg

And here's after I drained everything out.
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/20/l_b3ad797343e74c059b8a66583273c84e.jpg
I cleaned out what was left behind and oiled the block.

Pulled the passenger head off and the cylinders and pistons look perfect.
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/40/l_95ccb06f7fbf4e5a8a8597a5dc253f02.jpg
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/39/l_0a1181048fc04cbf9a475623ab887423.jpg

Wonder what the bottom end will look like. If it's rusty as hell my budget will be even tighter as I wont be able to sell it for much. But if it's rust free and I can clean it all up I should have plenty of cash to finish the swap after I sell it.

Neat comparison of the large oval port BBC heads and the GenIII LS6 heads.

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/10/l_3f96e3b46c644713b3c2404ba058f2d6.jpg

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/27/l_5d1ea130f9b3442ea627536795948e15.jpg

Interesting note, I can lift the LS6 head with one hand with ease...but the iron BBC head is tough even with two hands. And I'm a big dude.

Pop quiz, which head flows more air?

-Nathan

1970camaroRS

01-19-2010, 08:24 PM

Pulled the driver's head off last night. Second verse same as the first. Bores look great, have to clean them a bit, oil them down and put plastic over them like I did the passenger's side. Still hoping the bottom end looks like the cylinders do.

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/86/l_0965b713fcf24977b63cb6a837ba4352.jpg

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/12/l_abc381a9354d45ca85a5e7bcbe989155.jpg

Also, I visited my parents over the weekend and picked up the first tool I ever made. Been a decade since I made it with my dad, but he still had it in his garage. It's a transmission support tool. Bolts to the bellhousing and rests against the frame. Works perfect. So now when I pull the 454 out, I can move the car around as I please without having to worry about support the trans. This is very important to me since I have a tiny garage. I will show it in action when I pull the motor.

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/95/l_64e823ac0f8a4e6984562423b539177d.jpg

Here's how she looks now. I'm going to pull the water pump and radiator before I yank out the 454 shortblock.

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/87/l_2fc0fa0aafb44655851bbe38d818f85f.jpg

-Nathan

1970camaroRS

01-19-2010, 08:25 PM

70 splitbumper came over today and helped me pull the 454. I got two really good action shots of him pulling the motor out...and when I plugged my SD card into the computer's reader...it died. Should have used the friggin USB cable. I went back out to the garage and snapped a couple of pictures.

Here it is on the engine stand before I oiled it down and plastic wrapped it.
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/10/l_100392027d684aef88c4f1a4bac8c133.jpg

Believe it or not, after sitting with 16 quarts of water and 12 quarts of watery 'oil' in the crankcase...the bottom end looks like this:
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/52/l_80ce6574aab94e33b696b71f49417345.jpg
Looks brand new. Who would have thought. I will probably pull a main cap and a rod cap to see what the bearing look like, but I'm sure they will be fine as it was never run with the water in the crankcase.

Here's a closer look.
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/112/l_28ab609161164433a9c72a615acf0dcf.jpg

The transmission support tool I showed you earlier in action.
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/64/l_df04e71c10864baca2b19a49294ae27a.jpg

And the empty engine bay:
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/14/l_d999acf561774d22ba6782834906fd78.jpg

Near future plan is to strip out most of the crap from the engine bay, clean it up and paint it. Swap on the ported heads to the 6.0L and install the camshaft. Then it will be close to the time I will be installing the new motor.

-Nathan

1970camaroRS

01-19-2010, 08:25 PM

If you havn't guessed, all the above posts are copy and pastes from another forum. I've been at this since late summer. A few weekends ago I organzied my garage (this was brought on by a generous gift of a new craftsman compressor by my father....funny things happen when you ask to borrow the old man's tools, sometimes he just gives me a new one so his doesn't go permanently missing). While I was at it, I wrapped the 454 in plastic and put it in the corner. No one seems to want it, even for $500!

Got the LQ4 on the engine stand and started taking it apart starting with all of the EFI intake junk, the coil packs (to be reused), and valve covers. Here's a pick I like of the rockers after I got the cover removed. Not sure how much I like the gold tint to everything.

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs146.snc3/17372_103809266305824_100000302545291_91538_223400 2_n.jpg

Here is a passenger side head after removal (for sale!)
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs126.snc3/17372_103809279639156_100000302545291_91542_323668 1_n.jpg
Looks like the rear cylinder wasn't too happy!

Driver's side head (for sale!)
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs126.snc3/17372_103809272972490_100000302545291_91540_828085 2_n.jpg
Everything looks peachy.

Passenger's side cylinders
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs146.snc3/17372_103809269639157_100000302545291_91539_218934 5_n.jpg
Oh, the carbon! This will be fun to clean.

Driver's side cylinders
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs126.snc3/17372_103809276305823_100000302545291_91541_231069 5_n.jpg
Second verse, same as the first.

After much tinkering and thinkering, I came up with a plan. Carb cleaner. I rotated the engine so that one set of cylinders we perpendicular to the ground and filled each cylinder with about 2" of carb cleaner. This server two functions, one to loosen up the carbon and two, to check ring seal(already did a leak-down test and everything looked good). Came back four hours later, still had a considerable ammount of cleaner in the cylinders. Grabbed some shop towels and wiped off the cylinders. Viola...something even a wire brush couldnt remove just wiped right off! I then cleaned the gasket surface with scotchbrite, brake cleaned everything, then oiled down the cylinders and wiped them out a few times while I turned to engine over to complete the cleaning process.

Looks pretty:
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs126.snc3/17372_103809282972489_100000302545291_91543_290467 7_n.jpg

Ready for heads now...but only after I finish taking to oil pan off (throwing away for a CTS-V pan) and installing the ARP rod bolts and new camshaft. Probably throw on a new ported oil pump while I'm at it.

Here's the mess as it stands now and all of the brave blue shop towels that gave their lives so that this LQ4 may live.
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs146.snc3/17372_103809286305822_100000302545291_91544_608975 _n.jpg

-Nathan

1badchevelle

01-19-2010, 10:14 PM

Nice project looks like you know what you want. I do have a question why ls6 heads and not the l92?

waynieZ

01-19-2010, 10:36 PM

Nice cleanup work. It looks in good shape. You have a nice project going here.

70rs

01-19-2010, 10:41 PM

Because the LS6 heads were there and priced right I am guessing.

I remember that 454 coming out! How are you doing Nate?

In case anyone is wondering who this "70 splitbumper" nut job is, that's me. I have another life under an assumed name here. :D

The 454 was pretty easy to get out but I was amazed at how much crap came out of it and it was still in great shape.

For those of you that don't know who 1970 camaroRS is, he is a guy that lives near me that I met over on Nastyz28 last year. We bacame friends and spent some time with tools working on his car.
He is a really good guy, lot's of fun to hang with and I am glad he has decided to start a build thread here. Now we just need to talk him into forgetting the drag strip and work on going around corners.:lol:

Thank god those pictures of me got lost off the SD card!

Hey Nate, check out the new site started by some members here. Camaros only too!:thumbsup: www.thecamarosite.com I think you will really like it!

Let me know when you need me to come back over and supervise again!:lol:
We CAN STILL BBQ in the middle of winter ya know!

GregWeld

01-19-2010, 11:05 PM

So my question is what happened to the one rear cylinder that showed real nasty on the one head? Burnt valve? or??

Nice work guys... You too Eric...

:>)

1970camaroRS

01-20-2010, 01:46 AM

Nice project looks like you know what you want. I do have a question why ls6 heads and not the l92?

I love answering this question. To be honest, I aquired the LQ4 with the intentions of running L92 heads, but one heck of a deal came across my plate and I had to take it. The heads without valve springs only ran me $650 shipped and I already have the springs, locks and retainers I was going to use on the L92s. They were also recently redone and milled for a smaller chamber, which is a must on the LQ4 with dished pistons to bring up the compression ratio.

Here are the technical reasons that made the final decision for me.

1. The valve size on this head is only 2.0" as opposed to the giant 2.16" valve on the L92 meaning I can run a much more aggressive cam before running into PtV issues.

2. The runner volume is 30cc less than L92s meaning more port velocity and more torque, especially on an engine that might not have the highest compression ratio in the world. Or cubic inches. This is a street car after all.

3. They flow within 10 cfm at peak and 5 cfm everywhere else of the stock L92s. I will be giving up a few peak HP in trade for more torque, but I will make up for it with the camshaft.

4. My LS6 heads will use my stock rockers that I already have. If I had a larger budget I'd get the needle bearings replaced, but I'm just going to have to sit on this one. They checked out good during inspection anyway. No need for offset rockers that L92s need.

5. Did I mention that they were $650 shipped?

-Nathan

1970camaroRS

01-20-2010, 01:52 AM

Because the LS6 heads were there and priced right I am guessing.

I remember that 454 coming out! How are you doing Nate?
Doing good, keeping busy at Boeing on that friggin 787. At least it's flying now. Glad to hear your surgery went well.

In case anyone is wondering who this "70 splitbumper" nut job is, that's me. I have another life under an assumed name here. :D

The 454 was pretty easy to get out but I was amazed at how much crap came out of it and it was still in great shape.
Would have been easier if someone had remembered the last two bolts that were still in the bellhousing....

For those of you that don't know who 1970 camaroRS is, he is a guy that lives near me that I met over on Nastyz28 last year. We bacame friends and spent some time with tools working on his car.
He is a really good guy, lot's of fun to hang with and I am glad he has decided to start a build thread here. Now we just need to talk him into forgetting the drag strip and work on going around corners.:lol:

Hey, with the Eibachs, poly bushings, Z28 leafs and huge by big front sway bar, that car handles surprisingly well. Just have to replace the 15" steel wheels with something more like the 275/45-17s on my 2000 SS. At least I got that boat anchor out of the nose!

Thank god those pictures of me got lost off the SD card!

Hey Nate, check out the new site started by some members here. Camaros only too!:thumbsup: www.thecamarosite.com I think you will really like it!

Let me know when you need me to come back over and supervise again!:lol:
We CAN STILL BBQ in the middle of winter ya know!

Last I checked I still BBQ almost every night at 1am after work, rain, snow, hail, wind storms....whatever. Tax return and retirement account loan checks are in the mail....soon to be followed by parts! Stay tuned.

Of course I could tidy up the engine bay or swap out my power steering box for the manual box I have sitting around to keep me busy until then. Then there's that F250 I need to get running again.....

-Nathan

camcojb

01-20-2010, 01:53 AM

yep, great project and very similar to what I'm going to do. Please keep us updated, and check out the Camaro site linked above.

Jody

1970camaroRS

01-20-2010, 01:56 AM

So my question is what happened to the one rear cylinder that showed real nasty on the one head? Burnt valve? or??

Nice work guys... You too Eric...

:>)

Looking closely at it I appears to be a burnt valve, but it held pressure before tear down and the piston and cylinder wall look no different than any other.

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs126.snc3/17372_103809279639156_100000302545291_91542_323668 1_n.jpg

Head gasket also looked good. I'm sure after I get the engine put back together and I do a compression test everything will be ok.

-Nathan

1970camaroRS

01-20-2010, 02:11 AM

yep, great project and very similar to what I'm going to do. Please keep us updated, and check out the Camaro site linked above.

Jody

Joined and posted. I remember you front NastyZ28.

-Nathan

1970camaroRS

01-29-2010, 04:59 AM

This is what I found when I woke up this morning:
http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs188.snc3/19572_104088432944574_100000302545291_98056_637156 4_n.jpg

The parts fairy had visited me in the night!
http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs188.snc3/19572_104088436277907_100000302545291_98057_756519 0_n.jpg

My ham of a fist agrees, this is good.
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs168.snc3/19572_104088442944573_100000302545291_98059_186528 _n.jpg

Like the kids from a Christmas Story, I tear into the boxes:
http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs188.snc3/19572_104088446277906_100000302545291_98060_164883 6_n.jpg

1970camaroRS

01-29-2010, 05:02 AM

Love it, big smile.
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs188.snc3/19572_104088449611239_100000302545291_98061_764104 7_n.jpg

What is it that put a big goofy smile on my face?
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs188.snc3/19572_104088452944572_100000302545291_98062_558891 6_n.jpg

THIS
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs188.snc3/19572_104088456277905_100000302545291_98063_515875 2_n.jpg
SLP, ARP, Fel-Pro, Edelbrock, Trick-flow, Hughes, Summit. The gangs all here.

Oh and a bonus from the fine folks at the Summit Racing warehouse.
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs168.snc3/19572_104088459611238_100000302545291_98064_825514 _n.jpg

1970camaroRS

01-29-2010, 05:10 AM

SWEET!
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs168.snc3/19572_104088462944571_100000302545291_98065_277349 3_n.jpg

ARP rod, intake, balancer bolts and head studs
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs168.snc3/19572_104088466277904_100000302545291_98066_133703 6_n.jpg

MSD wires
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs168.snc3/19572_104088469611237_100000302545291_98067_462922 0_n.jpg

Edelbrock mount adaptors
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs188.snc3/19572_104088476277903_100000302545291_98069_674000 6_n.jpg
Surprisingly poor quality in the finish. Lots of burs and sharp edges. I will have to clean them up before I install them.

1970camaroRS

01-29-2010, 05:13 AM

See.
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs168.snc3/19572_104088479611236_100000302545291_98070_299945 2_n.jpg

Hughes LS1 flexplate for TH350/400, 700r4 transmissions.
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs168.snc3/19572_104088482944569_100000302545291_98071_564392 7_n.jpg

Billet Double roller timing gears and chain
http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs168.snc3/19572_104088486277902_100000302545291_98072_150728 1_n.jpg

SLP ported oil pump. Impulse buy, could have just gotten a cheap stocker and ported it myself.
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs168.snc3/19572_104088489611235_100000302545291_98073_783872 6_n.jpg

1970camaroRS

01-29-2010, 05:16 AM

Interesting note on the SLP oil pump, it comes with another pressure relief spring to up the oil pressure if needed and a new cap and o-rings too.
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs188.snc3/19572_104088492944568_100000302545291_98074_448026 5_n.jpg

K&N Extreme Flow filter...
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs188.snc3/19572_104088499611234_100000302545291_98076_130800 9_n.jpg

Something I should have known better, the K&N comes with the required carb stud and hardware...bought some cheapo Summit stuff too. Oh well.
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs188.snc3/19572_104088496277901_100000302545291_98075_479041 7_n.jpg

1970camaroRS

01-29-2010, 05:20 AM

On top, the bolt supplied by Edelbrock for the intake. Below, the bolt recommended by summit, ARP 430-2001. Picked them to bling up the intake a bit....they are all WAY too long. What am I supposed to do with them? Looks like Summit gets a call tomorrow.

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs188.snc3/19572_104088502944567_100000302545291_98077_869953 _n.jpg

Here it is, plane as day on the Summit website, they are recommending you use bolts that won't work...
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs168.snc3/19572_104089402944477_100000302545291_98085_307372 8_n.jpg

Did some digging, and low and behold, I need 6mm x 1.0, 50mm long bolts instead of 113mm long. Here are some in 12-point. Someone please double check and tell me if this is the part I really needed in the first place.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-770-1007/

Also found this AWESOME source of information on misc bolts and parts for GENIII engines.
http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/view.php?id=837831&da=y

tones2SS

01-29-2010, 09:24 AM

Very cool.
Looks like Christmas morning with that smile on your face.:thumbsup:

70rs

01-29-2010, 02:25 PM

That is a great way to start any day! (Finding parts at the door)

waynieZ

01-29-2010, 03:52 PM

New parts sweet!

1970camaroRS

02-01-2010, 05:38 AM

More goodies. A set of used American Racing Torque Thrusts 17 x 9, painted silver gray metalic. Backspacing for 4th gen Camaros. Almost brand new 275/40R17 Khumos up front and 275/40R17 MT ET Drag Radials in the back. Will need to use spacers, but I got such a killer deal that $250 for spacers still makes this super cheep. Front tires are making their way to my 2000 SS though, and if this doesn't work out for my 1970, the whole setup, minus the Drag Radials, will make it onto my '70 and I will go with plan B for the '70. Cragar Soft 8 17" x 8" black steel wheels. Remember, this is Operation Budget LSx.

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs188.snc3/19572_104181106268640_100000302545291_100456_54022 05_n.jpg

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs188.snc3/19572_104181109601973_100000302545291_100457_42052 4_n.jpg

1970camaroRS

02-01-2010, 06:09 AM

syborg tt

02-01-2010, 07:45 AM

Very cool build - thank you for sharing.

I am weeks away from starting my 2nd gen build.

camcojb

02-01-2010, 08:40 AM

you're making good progress. I can't wait to get my second gen home and get started.

Good job!

Jody

tones2SS

02-01-2010, 08:57 AM

Very cool. Parts are coming in fast and furious.
Keep us posted.:thumbsup:

tony byram

02-01-2010, 11:22 PM

Hey Id smile too if I got all those parts! Im watching your build, so that I will get motivated and change out my anchor and go with something lighter. How much weight difference will ther be between the big-block and the LS? Not to mention it will be easier on gas as well.:thumbsup:

1970camaroRS

02-02-2010, 02:55 AM

Mark IV Big Block weighs roughtly 685lbs with iron heads.

LS1 is 400-430 lbs depending on source.

LQ4/9 is 70lbs more than that, so 470-500lbs...that would be 215-185lbs lighter than a BBC.

Should be fun.

1970camaroRS

02-02-2010, 06:31 AM

Got the oil pan off today and took a look at the bottom end. As soon as I get myself a torque wrench with the proper range I will install the ARP rod bolts and do a step by step.

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs168.snc3/19572_104211152932302_100000302545291_101075_68355 76_n.jpg

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs168.snc3/19572_104211156265635_100000302545291_101076_30718 95_n.jpg

I cleaned everything off and then oiled everything down. No discoloration, just general varnish and carbon build up on everything. Previous owner definately didn't change their oil too often. Thank god it looks like they never ran it low.

GM Muscle

02-02-2010, 01:06 PM

1970camaroRS

02-15-2010, 05:48 AM

After working a 10-hour Sunday shift for the Boeing co and having my obligatory valentine's bedroom time with my wife, I escaped to one of my two man-caves. (the other is my office where I'm at right now).

After finding a three-jaw puller and getting the balancer/crankshaft pulley off, I was finally able to get started.

Installed the camshaft (should have gotten a picture of it sitting next to the stock truck cam....what a difference!) and then I installed the SLP double roller timing set. That was a breeze. It's a really nice piece too.

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs137.snc3/18472_104627062890711_100000302545291_109729_59788 24_n.jpg

Check out the dot to dot on my install....anyone think I screwed it up? I think I'm right on.

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs157.snc3/18472_104627066224044_100000302545291_109730_83830 13_n.jpg

Test fit the ported SLP pump without the shims just to see.

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs157.snc3/18472_104627069557377_100000302545291_109731_27797 0_n.jpg

The chain does get REALLY close to the pump, but doesn't quite touch. I can see that in operation it probably would, hence the shims that were included with the pump.

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs157.snc3/18472_104627072890710_100000302545291_109732_16996 36_n.jpg

Ran out of time and didn't have any sealant for the shims....so that will probably be that for the week. Tune in next week when I install ARP rod-bolts, complete the oil pump install and button up the bottom end. If I'm feeling up to it, I might even install my ARP headstuds and the ported heads. But that's only if I find a valve spring compressor in time. Might just have to go buy one....

GregWeld

02-15-2010, 07:56 AM

be sure to do one bolt at a time. it will be a fast a painless process. i took mine and backed the bolt all the way out then in a bout 5 turns. then grabbed some channel locks and "yanked" on the bolt head. it brought the ferrel out with it. then just put the arp bolt in and torque it, be sure to use the installation grease when installing them. then move on to the next bolt.. ls1howto.com has some good info floating around ...

Remember that NEW bolts aren't to torque spec until you've torqued them MULTIPLE TIMES... My advice when using NEW bolts like this - is to torque them all == then back 'em all off - and torque 'em again - and do this about FIVE TIMES.... to final torque. It takes a little bit more time - but is good insurance.

LSXZ28

02-15-2010, 11:20 AM

Remember that NEW bolts aren't to torque spec until you've torqued them MULTIPLE TIMES... My advice when using NEW bolts like this - is to torque them all == then back 'em all off - and torque 'em again - and do this about FIVE TIMES.... to final torque. It takes a little bit more time - but is good insurance.

Good advice! I've seen alot of leaking head gaskets because someone didn't want to take the time to do this! New bolts gotta be stretched, or they will do it themselves later. 5 times is what ARP recommends...

68400BIRD

02-15-2010, 11:31 AM

Just trying to learn here. If you install new rod bolts shouldn't the ends be resized??? :question:

1970camaroRS

02-15-2010, 05:38 PM

Just trying to learn here. If you install new rod bolts shouldn't the ends be resized??? :question:

Nope, not on LS motors. On a classic small block, the rod has a different design that requires a resize when you mess with the rod bolts (not actually bolts on a SBC). On LS motors, the rods are held together with actual bolts, and all you need to do is replace and torque them.

Vegas69

02-15-2010, 05:42 PM

And that's because the rods have sleeves to align the cap and rod.

93Polo

02-15-2010, 08:14 PM

I love answering this question. To be honest, I aquired the LQ4 with the intentions of running L92 heads, but one heck of a deal came across my plate and I had to take it. The heads without valve springs only ran me $650 shipped and I already have the springs, locks and retainers I was going to use on the L92s. They were also recently redone and milled for a smaller chamber, which is a must on the LQ4 with dished pistons to bring up the compression ratio.

Here are the technical reasons that made the final decision for me.

1. The valve size on this head is only 2.0" as opposed to the giant 2.16" valve on the L92 meaning I can run a much more aggressive cam before running into PtV issues.

2. The runner volume is 30cc less than L92s meaning more port velocity and more torque, especially on an engine that might not have the highest compression ratio in the world. Or cubic inches. This is a street car after all.

3. They flow within 10 cfm at peak and 5 cfm everywhere else of the stock L92s. I will be giving up a few peak HP in trade for more torque, but I will make up for it with the camshaft.

4. My LS6 heads will use my stock rockers that I already have. If I had a larger budget I'd get the needle bearings replaced, but I'm just going to have to sit on this one. They checked out good during inspection anyway. No need for offset rockers that L92s need.

5. Did I mention that they were $650 shipped?

-Nathan

Very much agree with your thought process. The L92/LS3 suff does seem to turn a higher peak hp # but the the cathederal ports often have a higher peak tq and broader curve mostly due to velocity.

Since I did my heads and cam ls1 6 years ago I have also noticed a trend on ls1tech and the LSx world in general to go with a big cam that get the hp #s but does not have the curve to go along with it. A well thought out LS6 heads and cam can turn some great #s. Looks like you have a solid plan.

If you have not already done so and decide to go for more cam, search Ls1tech for topics on dynamic compression, a calculator was floating around IIRC PianoProdigy posted it. Depending on the static compression of your LQ4 with the milled heads you can get more greedy on the cam. Good luck on the build.

93Polo

02-15-2010, 08:17 PM

Nope, not on LS motors. On a classic small block, the rod has a different design that requires a resize when you mess with the rod bolts (not actually bolts on a SBC). On LS motors, the rods are held together with actual bolts, and all you need to do is replace and torque them.

I don't think you have to resize the rods on some of the LT1/4 stuff and vortec motors. The cracked beam powdered metal rods first came out in the LT1s. Just be sure the caps are not mixed up and they go on as they came off.

1970camaroRS

02-16-2010, 04:55 PM

Worked my butt off last night. Got the oil pump installed and got the timing cover to fit right. It ended up working without the shims on the oil pump because the SLP pump is already clearanced for the double roller. I just had to tweek a few high spots on the back of the pump. I also, for the sake of science, got the cover to fit with the shims in place...but decided I liked the install without the shims. Didn't like the ammount of pre-load on the cover, I'm sure it would have leaked.

Also got the rod-bolts installed. Curious thing, the ARP instructions say the rods should be resized. Did a little digging and found that the instructions for the LS1 rodbolt kit are the same instructions that come with the SBC kit.

Pictures to come tonight.

WSSix

02-16-2010, 07:52 PM

93Polo

02-16-2010, 08:49 PM

The rod and I believe main bearings on an LS1 are the same as an SBC. You can put the lifters into a roller L98/LT1/4 and that's about it that swaps or is the same.

Good build up you have going there.

It is the style of manufacturing that I was referring to on the rods. Powdered Metal rods are made as 1 piece then the rod caps cracked so you can attach them on the motor. As they are cracked the rod caps must go on the same rod in the same direction as they came off. Traditional rods are made as 2 seperate pieces.

Several Lt1 guys around here were running up to 600rwhp on 355 builds with forged piston, factory crank and factory powdered metal rods with blowers when the LT1 scene was big. As one builder said they can handle the power just don't drop them on the floor. :lol:

http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/5131577/description.html has some more info on the manufacturing process.

1970camaroRS

02-17-2010, 04:02 AM

First thing I wanted to say was that after a lot of research I found that this combo, the SLP double roller and SLP ported oil pump DOES NOT need to use the spacers. One side of the pump was REALLY close to the chain, so I gave it a little extra room with the grinder. I decided to make it fit with the shims in place as a how-to.

With the shim in place on the oil pump, this is what happened to the timing cover. Hard riding condition on the left side, minor one on the lower right.

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs158.snc3/18572_104690226217728_100000302545291_111031_12428 03_n.jpg

I applied assembly grease to all the areas I suspect might ride or come close to the cover.

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs158.snc3/18572_104690232884394_100000302545291_111033_40369 4_n.jpg

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs158.snc3/18572_104690229551061_100000302545291_111032_20953 96_n.jpg

The only thing on this side that smashed flat was the area on the strengthening rib directly below the area SLP already clearanced. It even left a grease mark behind from the cover.

http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs138.snc3/18572_104690236217727_100000302545291_111034_60163 7_n.jpg

Another area that rode was near the pick-up tube boss. You can see the black grease that was left behind.

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs138.snc3/18572_104690242884393_100000302545291_111036_65090 07_n.jpg

You can see on the cover the areas that were close to touching and those that hit solid. The solid hits not only left grease behind, but scratched off the coating of oil.

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs138.snc3/18572_104690239551060_100000302545291_111035_75398 62_n.jpg

I then ground these areas(note: I did not have the proper tool for this job, a carbide bit would have saved me a LOT of time):

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs138.snc3/18572_104690246217726_100000302545291_111037_12782 72_n.jpg

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs158.snc3/18572_104690249551059_100000302545291_111038_28695 32_n.jpg

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs158.snc3/18572_104690252884392_100000302545291_111039_32066 27_n.jpg

After a very through cleaning (as if rinse, wipe, rinse, wipe, rinse, wipe over and over), I was able to get the cover down without riding anything at all.

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs138.snc3/18572_104690256217725_100000302545291_111040_67142 2_n.jpg

Side note: When I decided to run the pump without the shims, the passenger side of the pump was incredibly close to touching and likely would rub on the pump at operating temp and RPM. I snugged the pump in place, put grease on the timing chain and turned the motor over by hand multiple times. After removing the pump I could see a very faint outline where the chain was getting too close, so I clearenced these areas as little as possible for just a bit more room. There were, of course, no issues at all with the cover fitting in the configuration.

1970camaroRS

02-17-2010, 04:13 AM

First thing's first, remove the existing rod bolt (only ONE at a time, very important!) using a long handled ratchet and a 11mm socket. After a good push, the torque with break and the bolt will come out in about 4-5 turns.

http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs138.snc3/18572_104690286217722_100000302545291_111041_81478 03_n.jpg

But, the bolt will not come out all of the way. I used a pair of vise-grips and yanked a few times until the ferrel loosened and the bolts came out with it.

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs138.snc3/18572_104690289551055_100000302545291_111042_57087 67_n.jpg

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs138.snc3/18572_104690292884388_100000302545291_111043_38293 98_n.jpg

Apply plenty of ARP lube (provided in the kit) to the bolt, especially under the head.

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs158.snc3/18572_104690296217721_100000302545291_111044_60333 74_n.jpg

Then torque to 40lb-ft per ARP's instructions using a 10mm socket and your favorite trusty torque wrench.

http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs158.snc3/18572_104690299551054_100000302545291_111045_79267 16_n.jpg

Note: the instructions in the kit are hidden under the complimentary packet of lube. The instructions say you need to resize the rods, but I discovered these are the same instruction sheets provided in the SBC kits. You do not have to resize rods in GenIII motors when upgrading to ARP bolts.

So rinse, lather, repeat until all of the bolts are done. Then it's a good idea to go around a few more times, loosen each bolt one at a time and re-torque them. The debate rages on if you need to retorque or not, but I think it's a good idea and can't hurt anything.

tones2SS

02-17-2010, 10:49 AM

Very cool.
Moving right along. I like your write-up, very well documented.:thumbsup:

GM Muscle

02-17-2010, 01:18 PM

Remember that NEW bolts aren't to torque spec until you've torqued them MULTIPLE TIMES... My advice when using NEW bolts like this - is to torque them all == then back 'em all off - and torque 'em again - and do this about FIVE TIMES.... to final torque. It takes a little bit more time - but is good insurance.

i did mine like arp recommended. torqued to spec 3 times..:thumbsup:

70rs

02-17-2010, 01:20 PM

Looking good Nate! I can almost smell the tire smoke from here.:thumbsup:

waynieZ

02-17-2010, 06:23 PM

Interesting reading keep the updates coming. I love learning new stuff.

GregWeld

02-17-2010, 06:26 PM

Not trying to be a "downer" here at all -- and I know you're having a ton of fun with this project...

BUT (big butt) -- that motor "appears" to have been very hot at some point... that oil and dried "burnt" looking oil on the front around the crank snout - that would worry me... a lot.

Does the motor turn over "freely" etc? Have you looked and or checked any of the crank or rod journals?

It's non of my business of course - and I'm certainly no "motor guy" -- but it sure is DARK...
:thumbsup:

Vegas69

02-17-2010, 06:34 PM

Doesn't look to be maintained real well, I'd pull a main cap as Greg said.

E.rodz

02-17-2010, 07:16 PM

looks like a fun build so far yet another big block guy comes out of the dark closet.lol.cracks me up to listen to big block guys talk about how they are the only motors that make power. and most drag racers will get rid of all the comforts to drop 30 pounds and switching to a ls motor and taking all that weight off the front end and that not all the advantages.you are going to thank yourself the extra effort will be worth it in the end..oh I third the pull off the main cap idea. nows the time while its on the stand hope everything falls together for you.:thumbsup:

1970camaroRS

02-17-2010, 07:48 PM

Greg, you're not being a debbie downer at all. The motor had good oil pressure before the previous owner pulled it, it turns over by hand very easily and smoothly. I was planning on pulling one cap tonight just to have a looksee, but I'm sure the bearings will look like well worn, very high mileage bearings. Just looks like the previous guy didn't change is oil very often is all. The oil that came out of it looked good and so did the filter when I cut it open. There's no evidence of damage anywhere in the motor so far, just terrible looking oil deposits.

Also sticking to the plan that this is a budget build to just get it in the car and running. If it breaks, so be it. I don't have the money to build a forged 408 right now, but I will in a year or two.

GregWeld

02-17-2010, 08:13 PM

Thanks! Didn't want to sound like a DD...

BTW -- I think -- and I don't think real well... that you need a TOOL to pull the main caps off of an LS motor... Now maybe there's a "way" to wrestle 'em off there that you - or someone else - knows about.

But I would think that the rod caps might give you a good "heads up" and maybe even that isn't really needed if you think the bottom end is all good.

When I open my oil filters - it looks like someone filled 'em with brillo pad... Is that good? :rofl:

1970camaroRS

02-17-2010, 10:02 PM

When I open my oil filters - it looks like someone filled 'em with brillo pad... Is that good? :rofl:

Only if you dont like to have bearings in your motors.

Vegas69

02-17-2010, 10:12 PM

Not to hijack your thread due to Weld but Greg, why do an oil analysis if you have that much debris?

1970camaroRS

02-17-2010, 11:23 PM

Not to hijack your thread due to Weld but Greg, why do an oil analysis if you have that much debris?

I'm 99.9% sure he was joking with his last comment....

Vegas69

02-17-2010, 11:26 PM

He wasn't actually...we just don't want to hijack your thread.

1970camaroRS

02-19-2010, 12:34 AM

First off I want to say sorry for the lack of detailed pictures in this update. I had a bad day and went to the garage to work it out. I didn't stop to take many pictures. It did however make me mock everything up to give me a little push to keep going.

Got the windage tray and pick-up tube installed. Make sure you lube the o-ring with the same oil you will be running in the engine. It also helps to install the tube, it should slide right in.

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs239.snc3/22672_104748932878524_100000302545291_112405_52239 36_n.jpg

Since these are new untested parts, I decided to check the clearance between the oil pan and pick-up. Didn't get any pictures of that, but the result was good.

http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs239.snc3/22672_104748926211858_100000302545291_112404_38703 40_n.jpg

Curious thing happened when I went to install the oil-pan. One of the holes in the pan didn't have a corresponding hole in the block! I took the pan off to double check to see if it was a misplaced hole, but no....there wasn't a hole in the block anywhere near that spot!

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs239.snc3/22672_104748936211857_100000302545291_112406_27544 30_n.jpg

Interesting note: I used a straight edge to align the oil pan to the back of the block, then something struck me. Is that step truely necessary for engines being bolted to TH400/350/700r4's? The bellhousing bolt holes that are on the pan dont have corresponding structure on my 700r4 to attach to. Or am I just being crazy?

Moving on, I got the front cover installed then moved on to the ARP studs. No pictures of that, but I will take some when I take the mock-up apart to finish the heads.

So, I put the dowls in the block, slid the heads onto the studs, got the valve covers and coil packs sitting on top of them. Then I put the Vic Jr. on, put the carb that needs to be rebuilt on top of that and test fit the K&N. I thought it would also be neat to see the headers hanging there, so I added those too. These pictures will serve as inspiration to keep me going these next few months.

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs239.snc3/22672_104748939545190_100000302545291_112407_18686 95_n.jpg

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs219.snc3/22672_104748942878523_100000302545291_112408_23076 52_n.jpg

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs219.snc3/22672_104748946211856_100000302545291_112409_66158 90_n.jpg

http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs239.snc3/22672_104748949545189_100000302545291_112410_19810 08_n.jpg

I plan on making a custom valley cover to delete the knock sensor holes and will paint it the same color as the block. Debating on if I should spray in gloss black or chevy orange. Also thinking about painting the valve covers to match as well. Need to make that decision soon, but first I have to get a valve spring compressor to finish the heads and put the long block together. Those pictures look good, but theres a ton left to do!

70rs

02-19-2010, 10:58 AM

It's looking good Nate. But I think your shop help gave up there. :thumbsup:

tones2SS

02-19-2010, 12:42 PM

Moving right along. What color is the car going to be?!
I say paint the block/valve covers orange.:unibrow: :thumbsup:

1970camaroRS

02-19-2010, 06:40 PM

It's looking good Nate. But I think your shop help gave up there. :thumbsup:

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs219.snc3/22672_104748942878523_100000302545291_112408_23076 52_n.jpg

What, this guy? It was a long day....

He was probably busy sleeping off the bone I gave him.

1970camaroRS

03-21-2010, 01:12 AM

Been a while since I've updated, but I've had a huge curveball in my life. When the time is right I will tell that story, but for now, on with the show.

Between extended periods of time away from home, I've managed to clean, prep, mask, prime and paint both the engine block and the valve covers. I used a ceramic high temp primer and chevy orange rattle can paint. Turned out nice for the $20 I spent on materials.

Just a bit of overspray to clean off the front cover.
http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs491.snc3/26857_106249899395094_100000302545291_133903_29877 97_n.jpg

Valve covers primed.
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs511.snc3/26857_106249902728427_100000302545291_133904_14448 78_n.jpg

Coated in Chevy Orange a few times.
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs511.snc3/26857_106249912728426_100000302545291_133907_50235 24_n.jpg

With the valve covers loose installed.
http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs491.snc3/26857_106249916061759_100000302545291_133908_64320 68_n.jpg

With the coil packs.
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs491.snc3/26857_106249919395092_100000302545291_133909_66159 _n.jpg

1970camaroRS

03-21-2010, 01:17 AM

Over a few nights I managed to take apart my carb, clean it and replace every part that is made out of rubber. I deleted the choke mechanicals and plugged the hole for the choke rod. I've cut the choke horn away before on previous builds, but I think I will just leave it for now. Turns out the carb is a 4780-5 800cfm double pumper and not an 850 as I was led to believe. Oh well, still plenty for what I'm doing. While I was at it I found that it had factory jets and a 6.5 power valve. I installed a 5.5 for now and will wait to change out the jets when it's time to tune it.

Pile of parts.
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs491.snc3/26857_106250266061724_100000302545291_133922_26455 95_n.jpg

Ended up with this.
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs491.snc3/26857_106249896061761_100000302545291_133902_82078 6_n.jpg

1970camaroRS

03-21-2010, 01:18 AM

Took apart two of the stock lifters in preperation of making them into solid lifters for pushrod length checking and piston to valve clearance checking.

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs511.snc3/26857_106249926061758_100000302545291_133910_12464 18_n.jpg

tones2SS

03-21-2010, 11:32 AM

Very cool.The Orange came out awesome.:thumbsup:

1970camaroRS

05-14-2010, 03:27 AM

I know this is a big jump forward in my install, but between a new baby, my wife almost dying and having to work a ton to make up for lost money...I didn't document anything I've done lately.

I installed the heads on the ARP head studs, installed the valvetrain, and got stuck at installing the harmonic balancer. I didn't have a tool to install it, and none of my local buddies had one. The price to buy one for just a one time use was NOT to my liking. So, I made my own very very simple tool. Cost me $8.45 in materials and $8.99 for a hacksaw (needed one anyway).

Here's the recipe:

1 M16 threaded rod with 2mm thread pitch. Just take your old crank bolt with you.
2" stack of washers
1 large diameter thick fender washer (the washer that comes with the ARP bolt is perfect of course)
1 nut
1 deep socket (mine was 24mm)

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-sjc1/hs604.snc3/31828_121098914576859_100000302545291_176901_33920 34_n.jpg

This is the first try...it was a bit too short.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-sjc1/hs604.snc3/31828_121098924576858_100000302545291_176902_37882 35_n.jpg

Here's the second one I made, a few inches longer. Note the ARP washer on it.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs544.ash1/31828_121098927910191_100000302545291_176903_73769 3_n.jpg

Stack the washers on the ARP washer, toss on the nut and crank away!

http://hphotos-sjc1.fbcdn.net/hs634.snc3/31828_121098934576857_100000302545291_176904_47187 64_n.jpg

Viola! Crankshaft harmonic balancer is installed!

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs544.ash1/31828_121098941243523_100000302545291_176905_13173 44_n.jpg

Motor gets installed soon...

1970camaroRS

05-24-2010, 12:45 AM

Intake manifold and water pump installed today.

Also fit checked the hughes flex plate designed for use with th350/400/700r4 transmissions. It fit up perfectly with the 700r4 in my car. No need to elongate the holes on this one!

Things left to do:
1. Adjust valves
2. Install motor mounts/adaptors
3. Fabricate bracket for SBC style 1 wire alt.
4. Remove power steering box, install manual steering box
5. R&R heater core
6. Install motor
7. Electrical, cooling, etc
8. Vroom.

1970camaroRS

05-26-2010, 04:33 AM

Intake manifold and water pump installed.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs566.snc3/30928_124172670936150_100000302545291_188788_28442 30_n.jpg

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs566.snc3/30928_124172677602816_100000302545291_188789_82755 16_n.jpg

Went the cheap route and kept the stock top cover and reused the wiring grommet. I just filled the hole for the wire with ultra black, put a nice bead of more ultra black on the sealing surface and squeezed it down. I should work that way for a while. Hardly noticeable, I think.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs526.ash1/30928_124172684269482_100000302545291_188790_35437 51_n.jpg

Here's the fit check with the Hughes flexplate. Holes line up perfectly with the ATI torque converter for my 700r4.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs586.snc3/30928_124172687602815_100000302545291_188791_35460 6_n.jpg

PROCESS CHECK!

I found the directions for the Edelbrock motor mount adaptor plates to be ambiguous. I THINK this is the direction they are supposed to be installed.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs566.snc3/30928_124172697602814_100000302545291_188793_40773 21_n.jpg

And with the old energy suspension mounts attached.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs566.snc3/30928_124172704269480_100000302545291_188794_25289 66_n.jpg

One of the last big projects: I need to create a bracket to mount my old alternator. I have already added the pulley I need and have a general idea of where it will go.

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs586.snc3/30928_124172707602813_100000302545291_188795_52256 6_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs526.ash1/30928_124172714269479_100000302545291_188796_76895 53_n.jpg

I think I will use one hole common to the cylinder head, run a tie-rod to another hole...not sure about a third mount. Maybe a plate the takes up three holes on the head and attaches to at least two points on the alternator.

And one thing that needs to be done in the engine bay before the motor goes in, aside from a general cleaning and re-paint. This old power steering box has got to go. I have a manual box I'm swapping in since I want to run only a water pump and alternator.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs526.ash1/30928_124172690936148_100000302545291_188792_32226 87_n.jpg

Still need to adjust the valves...maybe tomorrow.

71RS/SS396

05-26-2010, 05:00 AM

I don't know if you know or not but you also need to change the drag link and pittman arm when you convert to manual steering.

1970camaroRS

05-26-2010, 05:37 AM

I don't know if you know or not but you also need to change the drag link and pittman arm when you convert to manual steering.

Roger that. Got those too! Not new to that game.

1970camaroRS

06-15-2010, 03:00 AM

New update. Not very glorious stuff, but interesting none-the-less.

When I was a student in good weather California, my windows started fogging when I tried to de-fog them. The air smelled sweet and dirty. Heater core was leaking! I did what anyone else going to school in a good climate would do. I bypassed the heater core by cutting the heater hose and looping it back into the water pump. Now, years later, is the time to replace this $38 piece of hardware.

It sucked.

This is what it looked like after I yanked the fan/cover assembly, loosened the box inside the passenger footwell and pried the hell to get the old heater core out.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs322.ash1/28268_129325377087546_100000302545291_210563_16116 26_n.jpg

Lots of beautiful rust.

This has got to be a 30+ year old heater core. I think I see Jesus.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs312.snc3/28268_129325383754212_100000302545291_210564_12206 31_n.jpg

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs292.snc3/28268_129325387087545_100000302545291_210565_33455 2_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs322.ash1/28268_129325397087544_100000302545291_210566_25778 30_n.jpg

Here's the heater cover/fan assembly. Dirty, moldy and a bit of rust.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs322.ash1/28268_129325407087543_100000302545291_210567_56471 61_n.jpg

This foam-rubber gasket is VERY hard to find. Don't lose it. Here it is installed on my new heater core.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs292.snc3/28268_129325413754209_100000302545291_210568_50610 52_n.jpg

Cleaned up the heater box/fan assembly.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs312.snc3/28268_129325423754208_100000302545291_210569_91612 8_n.jpg

Painted and cleaned the inner heater box.
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs312.snc3/28268_129325427087541_100000302545291_210570_59683 82_n.jpg

Installing the new heater core is difficult. Especially when I'm trying to take a picture. Can you tell I'm left handed? I seem to be using my left hand in all of my shots.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs312.snc3/28268_129325430420874_100000302545291_210571_73329 55_n.jpg

And installed with the retaining clip in place. Note that the metal the retaining clip is on is a bit bent. I had to fix that later.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs292.snc3/28268_129325433754207_100000302545291_210572_10285 9_n.jpg

Not too happy with the seal job, might go back and re-seal the heater box to the firewall. The excess sealant will be scrapped off and cleaned when I prep the engine bay for paint.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs292.snc3/28268_129328010420616_100000302545291_210580_62500 9_n.jpg

After removing my old power steering box, I test fit and function tested my new manual steering box. Surprisingly easy to turn the steering wheel now!
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs312.snc3/28268_129325440420873_100000302545291_210573_80966 30_n.jpg

Another angle. All bolts still loose and no nut holding the pitman arm to the steering box.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs322.ash1/28268_129325447087539_100000302545291_210574_18141 94_n.jpg

Another piece for the scrap pile!
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs322.ash1/28268_129325460420871_100000302545291_210575_70399 00_n.jpg

Last thing I have to do before I install the LQ4 is to clean and paint the engine compartment. Getting really close now!

camcojb

06-15-2010, 08:33 AM

congrats on the progress Nathan.:thumbsup:

Jody

waynieZ

06-15-2010, 08:58 AM

Nice progress keep at it.

makindue84

06-26-2010, 08:12 AM

Nice project looks like you know what you want. I do have a question why ls6 heads and not the l92?

I must agree with you. It is really nice! I think 192 is good but the ls6 is better. :D:thumbsup:

ja.stoner63

06-26-2010, 10:16 AM

Great action pictures... The tear down is always fun, you never know what you will find.:unibrow:

1970camaroRS

06-26-2010, 10:27 PM

Here's one heck of an update. Not exactly done with this project yet, but the mock-up picture was too good not to share.

Problem: No alternator on my LSx motor.

Have: Alternator from my BBC and the bracket that went with it.

Solution: Adapt my junk to run with the truck pulley, waterpump and tensioner.

Here's a reference picture of the head
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs067.ash2/36726_132328630120554_100000302545291_221551_33210 28_n.jpg

Basic location and spacing I had in mind.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs067.ash2/36726_132328633453887_100000302545291_221552_81769 56_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs127.snc4/36726_132328636787220_100000302545291_221553_17338 66_n.jpg

After making some measurements (including the difference in the depth of my alternator and the waterpump pulley), I found I needed a 1-1/4" plate and I would have to pick-up a hole on the cylinder head with the spacer plate.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs067.ash2/36726_132328653453885_100000302545291_221558_71214 13_n.jpg

Got this big hunk-o-aluminum from Midwest Steel Supply. It's 1-1/4" thick, 6"x8" T6 aluminum and with shipping was surprisingly cheap. I could have ordered a smaller size, but I wanted extra just in case.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs127.snc4/36726_132328626787221_100000302545291_221550_20878 5_n.jpg

Sorry if these pictures are excessive, but I like them. I layed out the pattern using my existing bracket, made some reference marks for the holes (do not drill these) and marked the inside area where I want the other cylinder head hole to end up.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs147.snc4/36726_132328640120553_100000302545291_221554_39867 46_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs147.snc4/36726_132328643453886_100000302545291_221555_71519 93_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs147.snc4/36726_132328646787219_100000302545291_221556_65169 29_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs127.snc4/36726_132328650120552_100000302545291_221557_36168 34_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs127.snc4/36726_132328656787218_100000302545291_221559_30551 3_n.jpg

I managed to find a bandsaw somewhere and cut out the plate. You can hacksaw or jigsaw this, but I wouldn't recommend it.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs067.ash2/36726_132328660120551_100000302545291_221560_13186 87_n.jpg

After clamping up the BBC bracket to the spacer plate to use as a drill guide...
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs067.ash2/36726_132328663453884_100000302545291_221561_51776 92_n.jpg

...I used a 'gunbarrel' drill bit and backdrilled the holes.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs067.ash2/36726_132328666787217_100000302545291_221562_61792 28_n.jpg

After measuring out and drilling the third hole, I mocked the spacer and bracket up to the head.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs147.snc4/36726_132328670120550_100000302545291_221563_82458 16_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs127.snc4/36726_132328673453883_100000302545291_221564_36996 19_n.jpg

1970camaroRS

06-26-2010, 10:28 PM

Used some random fasteners and a few drill bits and mocked everything up. I had a long steel spacer tube from another project that I cut down to 1-1/4" to match the spacer and used it on the tie-rod common-to the cylinder head.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs067.ash2/36726_132328676787216_100000302545291_221565_61758 64_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs147.snc4/36726_132328680120549_100000302545291_221566_18896 37_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs147.snc4/36726_132328686787215_100000302545291_221568_25523 09_n.jpg

Looks like everything lines up perfectly!
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs127.snc4/36726_132328683453882_100000302545291_221567_43008 62_n.jpg

Now I need to counter-bore the backside of the outermost hole so I can install that bolt. It interferes with the cylinder head. Then I will de-chrome everything chrome and probably paint the alternator, bracket and spacer an aluminum color so it all looks uniform. And, I need to find a belt...

1970camaroRS

06-26-2010, 10:43 PM

I must agree with you. It is really nice! I think 192 is good but the ls6 is better. :D:thumbsup:

The L92s are great, but in my case the ported LS6 heads were the cheapest, easiest, best solution and probably only leave 20hp on the table. Maybe.

1970camaroRS

07-10-2010, 09:33 PM

Here's what I did today to try to sweat out this terrible summer cold I have. I painted the engine bay in the Camaro. I didn't bother to take anything apart, all I did was degrease everything and I was very selective with the rattle can. Still have this summer cold though.

Also, Phase Two of my power program is coming in the mail. You'll never guess what I bartered to get it.

Here are a couple of before pictures:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs001.ash2/33420_135764303110320_100000302545291_233571_53743 90_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs001.snc4/33420_135764306443653_100000302545291_233572_39249 99_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs001.snc4/33420_135764309776986_100000302545291_233573_47658 98_n.jpg

And now a few after. Remember, this is a toy/race car, not something you'll EVER find at Pebble Beach.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs201.snc3/20833_135764343110316_100000302545291_233575_88356 1_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs201.snc3/20833_135764346443649_100000302545291_233576_58152 77_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs221.snc3/20833_135764353110315_100000302545291_233578_47224 02_n.jpg

I would say the next step is to actually install the engine!

camcojb

07-10-2010, 10:32 PM

looks a lot better Nathan, good job!

Jody

1970camaroRS

07-14-2010, 07:23 PM

I found this old video from 3 years ago and thought I'd share it. Still down with bronchitis, so no work on the Camaro.

454, 304 degree adv duration cam, 177 mini blower, open headers.

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=48253963

1970camaroRS

07-26-2010, 06:03 AM

I've got a secret. I'm going to be making more power than I said I would.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs171.snc4/37864_139416529411764_100000302545291_250741_66624 5_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs191.snc4/37864_139416532745097_100000302545291_250742_23317 74_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs171.snc4/37864_139416536078430_100000302545291_250743_32575 99_n.jpg

I worked this weekend, so I didn't have much time to spend on the Camaro. I did get the engine off the stand and onto the engine hoist. While I was trying to install the flexplate I found that the ARP bolts recommended by Summit we standard fine thread instead of M11x1.5. Correct bolts are on the way!

SS1156

07-26-2010, 09:53 PM

Nice work man. I have been following your thread since the beginning and you do good work. I can't wait to see the it on the road.

1970camaroRS

07-27-2010, 01:07 AM

Nice work man. I have been following your thread since the beginning and you do good work. I can't wait to see the it on the road.

Thanks, I think that's the first time in my life that someone has said I do nice work. I should be making black stripes on the road late August or early September. Maybe.

waynieZ

07-27-2010, 01:33 PM

Nice work on the engine bay.

1970camaroRS

07-29-2010, 03:38 AM

Quicky update. The engine is spending the night between the frame rails!

Got the flexplate on and torqued.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs171.snc4/37878_140128759340541_100000302545291_254391_17606 47_n.jpg

Having a heck of a time getting the dowls in the engine block into the bellhousing...and the drivers side mount hole is just a BIT off. Less than 1/8th", but enough that I can't insert the bolt. Need to get that figured out, then lift the engine up and get the headers in there.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs187.snc4/37707_140128769340540_100000302545291_254392_14557 8_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs087.ash2/37707_140128772673873_100000302545291_254393_44230 69_n.jpg

I'll give it another couple hours of work tomorrow night.

SS1156

07-29-2010, 09:59 PM

1970camaroRS

07-30-2010, 04:08 AM

Nate, I am thinking of trading my Saleen Mustang for a 70 Camaro. I definately want to run an LSx style motor with a T-56 behind it. I want to keep the EFI on it. Is there a reason you decided to go with a carb set up instaed of keeping the EFI? From the pictures it looks like the LS motors sit high up, are you going to have any trouble fitting this under a stock hood? If I do this I will probably going to run a 3" to 4" cowl hood anyways so that is not an issue. I was just curious is all. I really can't wait to see the motor sitting in there. Keep up the good work man and I will keep watching this thread.

I went with the carb for a couple of reasons.

1. I already had a carb, and with a $30 rebuild kit it was as good as new.

2. This manifold will make more power than a stock LS1/6 or truck manifold.

3. I was secretly planning on running a nitrous plate under the carb.

4. My fuel system is already setup with a low pressure electric pump.

In the long run, it was easier, cheaper and will make more power than the EFI system. It wont run as well, but that's ok by me.

1970camaroRS

08-02-2010, 02:06 AM

Went to install my headers and the driver's side went in perfectly...but the passenger side:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs003.snc4/33512_141035952583155_100000302545291_258108_25898 42_n.jpg

Stopped right about there, looked like it was hitting the frame with the outside most tube. So, under the car I went to investigate and I found this:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs105.ash2/38588_141035935916490_100000302545291_258106_52179 69_n.jpg

Riding hard against the a-arm mount. The headers still need to drop just a bit and swing closer to the transmission....and that's when I found the real culprit!

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs105.ash2/38588_141035939249823_100000302545291_258107_80214 64_n.jpg

That's a tab on the bellhousing for my 700r-4 transmission. These headers were not made with that bellhousing in mind I believe. I also think that it's not structurally important and I can chop it off. With it out of the way, the headers should slide right into place!

Like the driver's side headers:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs277.snc4/40195_141035919249825_100000302545291_258103_79236 22_n.jpg

It's a LITTLE bit close to the same tab on the other side of the bellhousing, but this picture is a bit deceiving. There's more than 1/4" clearance there.

Also, while I was at it I took a picture of the oil pan clearance. It hangs down almost as low as my milodon pan on my BBC did and I gained an inch or so by going from the BBC to the LQ4.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs237.snc4/39193_141035932583157_100000302545291_258105_46353 9_n.jpg

I find this to be more than acceptable for a street-strip car that I will drive carefully everywhere. Just ran out and measured the thickness of that weed-whacker line that was under the car (worked great to keep the headers up and away while I installed the motor for the final time). It measures about 1.5" thick. So it looks like I have about 4.5" from the pan to the ground. This is the 'muscle car' kit from GM. It uses the LH8 pan from the H2.

And finally, I tossed a few loose parts on the motor to mock things up and give a preview of the future.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs106.ash2/38659_141035929249824_100000302545291_258104_39863 36_n.jpg

waynieZ

08-02-2010, 09:24 AM

That looks great in there nice job. I love the orange on the motor.

1970camaroRS

08-03-2010, 01:03 AM

Got a bunch more work in today since I took a mental health day from work.

Just a reminder....passenger header hit this tab on the 700r4 bellhousing:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs105.ash2/38588_141035939249823_100000302545291_258107_80214 64_n.jpg

This was quickly fixed with a hack saw since that piece does nothing but get in the way.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs137.ash2/40196_141275649225852_100000302545291_259595_74989 57_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs211.snc4/38890_141275642559186_100000302545291_259594_61484 7_n.jpg

And now there's TONS of space.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs137.ash2/40196_141275655892518_100000302545291_259597_59960 61_n.jpg

Now it clears the A arm mount just fine.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs137.ash2/40196_141275659225851_100000302545291_259598_77768 6_n.jpg

And the frame is a bit tight, but should still work just fine.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs257.snc4/40196_141275652559185_100000302545291_259596_83099 39_n.jpg

I installed the coil packs, spark plugs and plug wires. No pictures of this since it isn't very glamorous.

The next big hurdle I had to jump over was the dipstick mount not clearing the flange on the Edelbrock headers.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs189.snc4/37770_141275662559184_100000302545291_259599_72109 41_n.jpg

Before:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs169.snc4/37770_141275665892517_100000302545291_259600_71016 96_n.jpg

After:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs189.snc4/37770_141275669225850_100000302545291_259601_23350 8_n.jpg

Viola! Fits perfect.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs089.ash2/37770_141275672559183_100000302545291_259602_35328 74_n.jpg

Things are really coming together.

1970camaroRS

08-05-2010, 02:05 PM

Here's a new one.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs127.ash2/39691_141928525827231_100000302545291_262534_53353 81_n.jpg

ElkyZO6

08-05-2010, 02:11 PM

Looks good.:thumbsup:

71RS/SS396

08-05-2010, 02:30 PM

Coming along good! FYI every dyno/flow test I've ever seen with that K&N open lid says they hurt flow/hp, they cause turbulence over the top of the boosters.

1970camaroRS

08-05-2010, 04:48 PM

Coming along good! FYI every dyno/flow test I've ever seen with that K&N open lid says they hurt flow/hp, they cause turbulence over the top of the boosters.

That's what I've been told too, after I had already bought it. I have a solid dome top coming in the mail. I'll paint it orange to match the block and valve covers. Then I will test both back-to-back to see the truth for myself. I tend to believe those that win races who say it hurts power, but I'm also experimenting with this car as much as possible.

tones2SS

08-06-2010, 08:41 AM

Looking good Nathan!!:thumbsup: :cheers:

1970camaroRS

11-21-2010, 08:41 PM

Sorry guys, life has been a handful lately. Got a few little bits and pieces done today. Upper and lower radiator hose is installed. Steam vent piping is hooked up and good to go. Fit checked a bunch of other stuff. Determined I have a gas pedal cable that is frayed and snagging, so that has to be replaced now. Also dropped the gas tank with the thought of installing a fuel cell in the trunk to prep for a dedicated fuel system for the nitrous down the road.

First things first, the lower hose. A source told me that the Gates 21505 would fit and I failed to do my homework beyond that to make sure it did before I ordered one. When it showed up the ID of the tube for radiator side and waterpump side was 1-3/4". Need 1-1/2" on both ends. The bends were about dead on, so I headed to the parts store to find one that worked. Ended up with a Dayco 71397. Lopped a inch or so off each end and viola!

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs589.ash2/154125_168166879870062_100000302545291_398450_8715 19_n.jpg

The upper hose is a stock unit for a chevy truck. I ended up with a Gates 22436 hose. Fit the waterpump perfect (duh) but was a wee bit small for the radiator. After some gentle coaxing, some real loving XXX rated coaxing, I got it to fit. I believe the radiator side of the hose is 1-5/16" and my 3 core HD radiator for a 70 Camaro with big block is 1-1/2".

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs605.ash2/155696_168166756536741_100000302545291_398442_4395 933_n.jpg

Next is the fun part. Figuring out how to bleed air and vent steam into/out of the cooling system. There is a high point in the cooling system now near the bend of the hose right here:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs976.snc4/76978_168166783203405_100000302545291_398443_32966 2_n.jpg

It will trap air and hurt cooling flow through the engine. Turns out I need a high point in the cooling system to run a line from the steam tubes in the cylinder heads to. And I used this to make that happen.

http://l15.sphotos.l3.fbcdn.net/hphotos-l3-snc4/hs945.snc4/73866_168166733203410_100000302545291_398440_74953 89_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs946.snc4/73984_168166749870075_100000302545291_398441_30675 54_n.jpg

It's from Jags That Run. It has an inlet/outlet size of 1-5/16", a bleed valve and a barb fitting for the 1/4" ID hose from the steam vent. I cut the hose where I wanted the splice to be made and installed one half.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs935.snc4/74824_168166819870068_100000302545291_398446_35339 00_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs931.snc4/74454_168166833203400_100000302545291_398447_79906 71_n.jpg

Then the other half and routed the steam vent line.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs998.snc4/77158_168166859870064_100000302545291_398449_83338 45_n.jpg

Doesn't look half as frankensteined as I thought it would. Plus it will be functional.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs955.snc4/74887_168166846536732_100000302545291_398448_81819 77_n.jpg

I did a few other things like run the PVC hose and test fit the heater hoses. I have a small concern about the rubbing of the hoses on the upper A-arms.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs948.snc4/74172_168166803203403_100000302545291_398445_22392 12_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1181.snc4/150315_168166793203404_100000302545291_398444_8378 695_n.jpg

I think I can get away for a while by wrapping the hoses at this point. Any thoughts?

70rs

11-21-2010, 08:50 PM

Hey Nathan, things are looking really good! I have lost all of your contact info and would love to get in touch to catch up. Can you PM me your number please? I'd really like to stop in and meet your baby for the first time and check out the car too.

1970camaroRS

11-21-2010, 10:04 PM

Sent you a PM with a long list of stuff I could sure use some help with.

1970camaroRS

12-17-2010, 06:56 PM

Things I got done recently:

1. Got the starter installed and the passenger side header installed tonight.
2. Located, drilled a hole and installed the fuel pressure regulator on the fenderwell.
3. Consolidated wiring around the battery to clean things up.
4. Installed the adaptor and the autometer temp sensor.
5. Installed the new temp switch for the electic fan.
6. Installed engine ground wire.

Things left to do.
1. Make and install power wire for electric fan.
2. Install alternator (coming soon, will be next major update with pictures)
3. Heater hoses (will probably show pics on this too)
4. Wire ignition controller
5. Reinstall fuel pump and fuel tank after cleaning them.
6. New throttle cable wire
7. Serpentine belt
8. Coolant plug for passenger side head
9. Oil filter and oil
10. Coolant
11. Get a fire extinguisher
12. Make some noise.

camcojb

12-17-2010, 07:53 PM

1970camaroRS

02-13-2011, 09:12 PM

Here we go, starting working on it again after a long hiatus.

Decided that I didn't like the look of the x-stream filter lid and also after multiple reports of performance issues, I decided to use this AFCO aluminum lid.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/182632_189229374430479_100000302545291_524588_2387 29_n.jpg

Time to install the nitrous bottle.

First I drilled a hole for the nitrous line to run through and rough routed the braided hose. Note: this will need a rubber grommet that has not yet been aquired or installed.

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/181719_189229344430482_100000302545291_524587_4400 392_n.jpg

Next, I had to decide where I wanted the bottle. I had to keep in mind where the bolts for the bracket would end up so that they wouldn't interfere with the gas tank. Another consideration I had was the small area to pull the bottle in and out of. This made me decide to install the bottle sideways. While this is NOT the prefered direction to install the bottle, I felt the ease of reaching the valve and removing and replacing the bottle was more important for me. I will rarely use the nitrous, and only with a full bottle.

Here is the template in place.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180084_189229404430476_100000302545291_524589_1630 770_n.jpg

Test fitting the bottle on the template, BEFORE drilling.

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/181641_189229447763805_100000302545291_524591_2837 963_n.jpg

I'm ok with this for clearance.

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180301_189229424430474_100000302545291_524590_1249 599_n.jpg

First I start drilling with a small pilot drill.

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180326_189229504430466_100000302545291_524593_5942 8_n.jpg

And finish with the final drill size.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/182938_189229534430463_100000302545291_524594_5982 8_n.jpg

Very important, don't forget to debur the holes.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/168897_189229581097125_100000302545291_524595_1106 801_n.jpg

Now I fasten the brackets using the holes I drilled. It's important to put the head size of the bolt on the underside of the trunk floor. This allows for adequate clearance between the bolt and the gas tank.

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180436_189229671097116_100000302545291_524598_2064 306_n.jpg

Now, how do I tighten these bolts when I am on the underside of the car? Do I have magically long arms? Nope, I have a wife tool. A girlfriend tool or a kid tool can work as well. Some people might even find that a beer drinking buddy tool can be helpful.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180995_189249224428494_100000302545291_524806_4603 117_n.jpg

Bottle installed and hose hooked up.

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180640_189229744430442_100000302545291_524600_7256 095_n.jpg

Now I'm ready to clean the rust in the trunk and paint it. Also, my gas tank is ready to reinstalled after I cleaned and painted it.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/168951_189229654430451_100000302545291_524597_3602 031_n.jpg

Almost down to just needing the wiring done. Really not looking forward to it.

1970camaroRS

02-14-2011, 08:23 PM

Here's the 6LS installed on the firewall. It ALMOST fit the exact same footprint of the Mallory HyFire IV box I had there before. Just had to really force one screw in to make a new hole for itself.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/180103_189489457737804_100000302545291_526016_5117 56_n.jpg

Now for the moment you've all been waiting for. Ok some of you have been waiting for. The installation of the alternator bracket and adaptor/spacer I fabbed earlier. http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showpost.php4?p=293553&postcount=78

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/182479_189489484404468_100000302545291_526017_6532 398_n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180764_189489511071132_100000302545291_526018_4226 901_n.jpg

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180489_189489537737796_100000302545291_526019_7344 145_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/180977_189489571071126_100000302545291_526021_3496 406_n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/181613_189489597737790_100000302545291_526022_4072 100_n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/183084_189489631071120_100000302545291_526023_4353 26_n.jpg

It does sit a little high, but that's because I used the upper outside hole on the head instead of the lower one I mocked it up with. I like the belt angle and clearance this position gives me. However, not sure if it will clear the hood. Actually thinking it won't after giving a good look at it. I will give it a shot with my old hood I have sitting outside after it dries off.

70rs

02-16-2011, 03:59 PM

Hey Nathan,Looks like it's coming together really well!
Sorry I have not been in touch, things have been a little nutty here......but should smooth out very soon.

1970camaroRS

02-16-2011, 10:56 PM

After staring at the location I installed it, I decided it was way too high. I did the worlds WORST counter bore for the upper outside most bolt since the nut would interfere with the cylinder head when I moved the outer head bolt to the lower location. It like this location a lot better.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/183344_189989671021116_100000302545291_529590_8122 388_n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180160_189989704354446_100000302545291_529591_2916 132_n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/181772_189989727687777_100000302545291_529592_6537 536_n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/184700_189989741021109_100000302545291_529593_4086 708_n.jpg

And here's the world worst counter-bore. It works though, everything is VERY close to touching.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/184936_189989754354441_100000302545291_529594_5818 84_n.jpg

Someone on another board asked me why I didn't just get a bracket from car Y and space that out and use a late model alternator.

I had a known good, fairly expensive Powermaster one wire alternator already from my previous SBC/BBC installs. Also already had the BBC alt bracket and the adjustable rod. The aluminum was basically free to me, just had to do someone a favor for it. So I am out labor and the $10 or so for fasteners. Oh, plus the $5 pulley. I think I'm making out like a bandit and my electrical setup stays exactly the same as I had it before.

Side by side before and after.

BEFORE.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180489_189489537737796_100000302545291_526019_7344 145_n.jpg

AFTER.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/181772_189989727687777_100000302545291_529592_6537 536_n.jpg

1970camaroRS

02-16-2011, 10:57 PM

Hey Nathan,Looks like it's coming together really well!
Sorry I have not been in touch, things have been a little nutty here......but should smooth out very soon.

Hey no problems. Let me know anytime you want to come over, have a few beers and do my wiring for me! :lol:

1970camaroRS

02-19-2011, 01:56 AM

Here's a minor update. Added a gromett and painted a little.

Here's the gromett covering the hole for the nitrous hose.
Before:
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/181698_189229701097113_100000302545291_524599_2791 843_n.jpg
After:
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/182972_190449454308471_100000302545291_532073_3830 141_n.jpg

I did a little painting with this stuff:
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/184648_190450847641665_100000302545291_532088_6506 722_n.jpg

Thought one bottle would be enough, but it wasn't. I will need to touch up a little with another bottle later.
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/180042_190449430975140_100000302545291_532072_6081 726_n.jpg

Before:
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180436_189229671097116_100000302545291_524598_2064 306_n.jpg
After:
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/183504_190450817641668_100000302545291_532086_1113 353_n.jpg

It leaves a nice rubberized texture, just curious how well it will last.
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180657_190449404308476_100000302545291_532071_3591 720_n.jpg

And with the bottle installed.
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/182950_190450834308333_100000302545291_532087_7224 75_n.jpg

1970camaroRS

02-21-2011, 11:20 AM

There was a question about using the stock hood with this intake and carb. I will have to say, not possible unless you don't run and aircleaner or a choke horn. And even then, it might be a little close.

I'm running a K&N drop base bottom, a K&N 3" filter, and an AFCO dome top lid. Plus, I have a .5" nitrous plate. This will push me to a 4" or taller cowl hood. Someone running no nitrous plate or spacer, plus a flat top, drop base filter will need a 2" cowl at least. Or get really creative.

The blue line represents the top of the aircleaner (not the domed part, just the lip edge. My dome top really pushes me to need a bigger cowl) The red line is the firewall cowl which is the same height, roughly, as the hood.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/179887_190998950920188_100000302545291_535127_5070 174_n.jpg

1970camaroRS

02-22-2011, 10:24 PM

Just a minor update. Did a little clean up work and painted the alternator bracket, the alternator (damn, there's a ton of little holes to mask off...and yes, I know I could have just taken it apart), and painted the airfilter lid. All of them got a couple of coats of aluminum pigmented paint. I think it turned out really nice.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/184379_191340674219349_100000302545291_536559_2521 691_n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/183573_191340710886012_100000302545291_536561_6763 322_n.jpg

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/183648_191340757552674_100000302545291_536562_3838 054_n.jpg

Did I ever mention that I hate chrome or most anything that shines? Except for stainless.

I am also fully aware of how much crap I have piled on the cowl, the fenders, my tool box, my work bench....

waynieZ

02-23-2011, 09:44 AM

It looks good. Who's paint did you use??

1970camaroRS

02-23-2011, 12:12 PM

It's just some DupliColor Engine Enamel with Ceramic, Cast Aluminum color from a rattle can. It was really hard to work with. Wanted to make runs with the smallest ammount sprayed. It was sort of cold in the garage though...

1970camaroRS

02-28-2011, 04:55 PM

You know how sometimes, if you stare at a problem long enough a simple solution will jump out at you? Well, I solved my heater hose delema and fixed a routing problem with my fuel system at the same time. Bad news is I need more parts now. A fuel log to run a single hose from my FPR to the carb, and fittings to run a hose to the nitrous selenoid. I was going to build a shield, but this seems to be working.

All I had to do was slightly relocate and angle my fuel pressure regulator (FPR) to allow one of the heater hose to take it's natural path to the waterpump. This also allowed me to no longer have one of the heater hoses in contact with the return line. As you can see, there's now at least 1" between any hose, structure or other hoses.

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180934_192665274086889_100000302545291_544215_1690 222_n.jpg

I drilled two holes big enough for a zip tie in the inner fender and used an old wire loom clamp as a spacer.

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/189362_192665407420209_100000302545291_544220_8105 139_n.jpg

And routed the heater hose through the stock clamp on the fender.

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/188942_192665344086882_100000302545291_544217_4650 06_n.jpg

1970camaroRS

03-07-2011, 07:54 PM

Reinstalled fuel pump, readied the the gas tank to be reinstalled.

Went to the hardware store and got nuts and washers for engine mount through-bolts.

Also got some wire terminals....

Car did a neat trick today too. IT TURNED OVER FOR THE FIRST TIME. Of course, no start since the fuel system isn't finished and the igniton isn't wired.

Everything sounded good, building compression, no odd sounds. No power to my interior lights or gauges which was odd. I will have to figure that out. Dying to see if it's building oil pressure while cranking.

Also made myself a promise, no pictures of anything until it's running!

camgen2

03-18-2011, 11:49 AM

Hey man, what headers did you use. I'm doing your same setup in an '81 Camaro. I'm trying to choose headers with minimal issues.

94snglturbo

03-18-2011, 01:40 PM

why didnt you paint the oil pump and all the other stuff on the front of the motor that looks old??

1970camaroRS

06-20-2011, 05:57 PM

Hey man, what headers did you use. I'm doing your same setup in an '81 Camaro. I'm trying to choose headers with minimal issues.

Edelbrock headers, hard to find them anymore. There are better out there now.

1970camaroRS

06-20-2011, 05:58 PM

why didnt you paint the oil pump and all the other stuff on the front of the motor that looks old??

They are aluminum and just need to be cleaned better...might paint them in the future, but wasn't a huge concern at the time.

1970camaroRS

06-20-2011, 05:58 PM

Just want to let everyone know, this project has NOT been given up on! I recently had weight loss surgery (every 100lbs is a 1/10TH!) and have been recovering from that. Also needed help on the electrical. Had it cranking, wired the fuel pump relay, went to test and and....no power at all to the car all of the sudden.

Had my father come down last weekend and we went through all of the under-hood wiring. The OE stuff, stuff others hacked on, and stuff we spliced into the hacked on OE stuff. Found a few minor shorts, fixed some severed wires, removed superfluous (yes, I had to spell check that word) wiring and still....it would sometimes crank, then sometimes have no power, yet all the fuses and breakers were fine. We did have a mystery 50ohm resistance in the system somewhere....

I finally noticed that there appeared to be rubber trapped between the main ground wire lug and the battery terminal. Took that off and sure enough, there was only about 10% of the lug making contact with the battery. After carefully trimming away the rubber from the cheaply made lug, it was reinstalled, the car cranks, power was restored and the mystery resistance went away!

Finally, we rewired the fuel pump relay, put gas in the tank and turned the key. No fuel pump sound, no fuel pressure! Chased the voltage from the battery to the relay to the pump and 12v went all the way. Had a good ground too. Dead pump...and after all the work we put into it. Called it quits and ordered the a new pump.

I pulled the OE steering wheel (will be in the for sale section soon, 1970 RS steering wheel!) to prep for the Grant wheel I'm replacing it with and to allow me to fit better under the dash to replace the poorly installed wiring I did 12 years ago before I knew what I was doing!

Sorry, no photos from the wiring work, I was too busy and in a hurry and LeMans was on and something, something, something. I will go take some pictures of the current state and how I feel about crappy Mallory pumps tonight.

All is well, fire up in 30 days or less (Dr. has told me to take it easy...)

syborg tt

06-20-2011, 06:07 PM

Edelbrock headers, hard to find them anymore. There are better out there now.

such as - you've peaked me interest

70rs

06-20-2011, 06:11 PM

Hey man, what headers did you use. I'm doing your same setup in an '81 Camaro. I'm trying to choose headers with minimal issues.

Summit has a part number for a Dynatech LS swap header. Prices start about $400.00.

Nathan, thanks for the engine stand! The 327 is ready to drop in the boat now. Just have to pull the broken 283 thats in the way now.

It was good to see you and your family. Your little girl is growing so fast!
We need to BBQ again this summer.

syborg tt

06-20-2011, 08:56 PM

Summit has a part number for a Dynatech LS swap header. Prices start about $400.00.

Couldn't find them.

I did however find a long tube set for $500.00. Looks like it's going to have all the same problem as the other long tube headers. They just don't fit, they all hang way to low. It's not the manufacture of the headers fault it's just the nature of the car.

If you goal it to hide the headers & exhuast you can't do it with long tube headers. From the floor to the bottom of the frame rail is only 3 1/2" which means all you really have room for is the exhaust pipe. I am using a set of edelbrock shorty headers from a 2010 Camaro with only a minor modification on the passenger side. Some people believe that short tube headers work better on LS motor as the O2 sensor is closer and the computer can react much faster & better.

1970camaroRS

06-21-2011, 12:37 AM

Summit has a part number for a Dynatech LS swap header. Prices start about $400.00.

Nathan, thanks for the engine stand! The 327 is ready to drop in the boat now. Just have to pull the broken 283 thats in the way now.

It was good to see you and your family. Your little girl is growing so fast!
We need to BBQ again this summer.

We sure do! Hope that swap works out.

1970camaroRS

06-21-2011, 12:38 AM

I have also been delayed by getting into professional photography, especially aviation photography. With this being flying season, I've been busy.

So here are some pictures.

Third Mallory pump that's died on me in nine years. Can you tell what I think?
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/Product%20Photos/LJ6Q3680.jpg

New Aeromotive pump. Sweetness. By the way, glass is sharp on the edges, who knew? (band-aide on my finger)
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/Product%20Photos/LJ6Q3740.jpg

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/Product%20Photos/LJ6Q3734.jpg

Took all of the bundles apart.
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/Camaro/LJ6Q3667.jpg

Left front area is a mess!
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/Camaro/LJ6Q3668.jpg

Fixed a little wiring here...terrible condition.
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/Camaro/LJ6Q3665.jpg

Required tools.
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/Camaro/LJ6Q3663.jpg

Fuel routing.
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/Camaro/LJ6Q3660.jpg

Serpentine belt alignment is good.
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/Camaro/LJ6Q3671.jpg

Yanked the steering wheel...it's for sale here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showth...34#post2403034
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/Camaro/LJ6Q3674.jpg

And another shot of the engine bay
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/Camaro/LJ6Q3658.jpg

And the trunk.
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/Camaro/LJ6Q3676.jpg

syborg tt

06-21-2011, 09:20 AM

WOW - Nathan your pictures are incredible.

70rs

06-21-2011, 09:34 AM

WOW - Nathan your pictures are incredible.

X2! Nice work man!

Marty, PM sent.

The part # listed at summit for 70/81 camaro LSx swap headers is #715-29410-Dynatech.
Retail prices start at $399.99.

Sorry for the hijack Nathan.....on with the show.

1970camaroRS

06-21-2011, 11:15 AM

No worries, point of the thread is to answer questions for people that are hopefully on a similar quest. (and budget)

1970camaroRS

06-21-2011, 11:16 AM

WOW - Nathan your pictures are incredible.

Thanks. You can tell the one I produced and took my time on, the Aeromotive pump picture. The other images are just snapshots basically.

1970camaroRS

06-23-2011, 11:49 AM

So, I pulled my origional steering wheel in preperation to install a Grant wheel and to give me room to work under the dash. Last night, I went into the garage in my socks and underwear (yeah, I know...not a good mental picture) in search of some packing tape. I ended up spending about two hours installing the wheel, making sure the horn worked and centering it as best I can. Now, it's in my way to do the under-dash wiring. What was I thinking? Oh well, one more thing on the list done. Picture to come later.

70rs

06-23-2011, 03:15 PM

The picture WITHOUT you in your socks and underwear please?:D

1970camaroRS

06-23-2011, 05:33 PM

The picture WITHOUT you in your socks and underwear please?:D

Without my socks and underwear? Why Eric, I never knew!

1970camaroRS

06-23-2011, 05:38 PM

Who wants to see my dead Mallory-piece-of crap-doesn't-work-and-kept-failing fuel pump dying in a blaze of fire?

mexMan

06-23-2011, 05:48 PM

That depends, how many votes do you need?

70rs

06-23-2011, 06:01 PM

Without my socks and underwear? Why Eric, I never knew!
Lol! You know now!
Who wants to see my dead Mallory-piece-of crap-doesn't-work-and-kept-failing fuel pump dying in a blaze of fire?
I do I do I do!

1970camaroRS

06-23-2011, 10:06 PM

That depends, how many votes do you need?

Just one. Stay tuned for an epic post this weekend.

70rs

06-23-2011, 11:52 PM

Just one. Stay tuned for an epic post this weekend.

A little quality time tossing hot brass?:unibrow:

1970camaroRS

06-24-2011, 10:07 AM

A little quality time tossing hot brass?:unibrow:

Don't have anything that slings lead at the moment, or that would happen. My plan for now will be good enough, I think.

70rs

06-24-2011, 10:19 AM

Patiently waiting for some carnage..........:D

1970camaroRS

06-25-2011, 04:21 AM

Installed the new fuel pump today. Wired it up and it works. Looks good too and fits better than the last pump. Odd thing is I found two extra holes under the old pump bracket that were exactly the correct spacing for the new pump. Don't even remember drilling those.

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3964.jpg

Bad news: I have fuel leaks, mostly on the crappy fuel log I'm having 2nd thoughts about.

Leaks here:
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3972.jpg

Here:
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3973.jpg

Here:
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3974.jpg

And Here:
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3975.jpg

Also this fitting leaks...
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3969.jpg

Also wired the fuel pressure guage and it won't work. Suspect the sending unit is dead.

1970camaroRS

06-25-2011, 04:36 AM

Did an autopsy of the crappy Mallory pump (3rd one I've had go bad on me). The official result: Sat too long with moisture in the pump. Electric motor wasn't sealed well enough. Pump siezed, motor fried, primary power wire melted.

Here's the pump in question. Dead on the examining table.
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3742.jpg

First I will remove the pump cover. Warning, this will void the warrenty...
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3744.jpg

Evidence of galling and heat build-up.
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3746.jpg

Ah-ha, rusty and frozen.
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3750.jpg

Now, I will take the top cover off and look at the motor.
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3753.jpg

Rusty, grungy, a little bit on the toasty/fried side of things.
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3755.jpg

This little guy has melted and burned almost all the way through.
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3761.jpg

Motor windings are also rusty and grungy.
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3759.jpg

A collection of some substance in the base of the electric motor. It and the pump and siezed so badly that I couldn't seperate them with a hammer.
http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3763.jpg

So, first two dead pumps were because they suck. This one is mostly my fault, but really...it should have survived a few years without use. Oh well, the Aeromotive pump is light years better.

1970camaroRS

06-25-2011, 04:37 AM

Now, for what everyone has been waiting for. A cremation of this abomination.

This was fun to do by the way...

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3770.jpg

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3772.jpg

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3786.jpg

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3804.jpg

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3838.jpg

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3847.jpg

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3869.jpg

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3881.jpg

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3792.jpg

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3908.jpg

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3924.jpg

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3959.jpg

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3955.jpg

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3921.jpg

Stupid fuel pump...

65_LS1_T56

06-25-2011, 05:16 AM

You should consider professional photography! Those are awesome pics:thumbsup:

Stupid fuel pump....

Leadfoot1

06-25-2011, 08:06 AM

About your leaks. I noticed you seem to be using a mix of standard hardware store copper fittings and AN parts with the log (where you seem to be having have all your problems). I'm not sure, but arent the copper parts a 45 degree taper vs the AN stuff being 37? Would that not be a possibility that incompatibility would lead to leaks?

Just a tought, and i'm with '65 on the pics, Weeeery nice, even showed 'em to the wife to be!

Lead.

Just found this ; (Last phrase at bottom if you wanna save 4 minutes lol!!)

The AN thread is a particular type of fitting used to connect flexible hoses and rigid metal tubing that carry fluid. It is a US military-derived specification that dates back to World War Two and stems from a joint standard agreed upon by the Army and Navy, hence AN. When the Air Force became its own service in 1947 the AN designation came to reprisent Air Force and Navy. Some aftermarket automotive fitting manufacturers sometimes still mistakenly referred to it as "Army-Navy".

AN sizes range from -2 (dash two) to -32 in irregular steps, with each step equating to the OD (outside diameter) of the tubing in 1/16" increments. Therefore, a -8 AN size would be equal to 1/2" OD tube (8 x 1/16 = 1/2). However, this system does not specify the ID (inside diameter) of the tubing because the tube wall can vary in thickness. Each AN size also uses its own standard thread size.

AN fittings are a flare fitting, using 37° flared tubing to form a metal-metal seal. They are similar to other 37° flared fittings, such as JIC, which is their industrial variant. The two are interchangeable in theory, though this is typically not recommended due to the exacting specifications and demands of the aerospace industry. The differences between them relate to thread class and shape (how tight a fit the threads are), and the metals used.

Note that 37° AN and 45° SAE fittings and tooling are not interchangeable due to the different flaring angles. Mixing them can cause leakage at the flare.

mexMan

06-25-2011, 09:36 AM

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/fuel%20pump/LJ6Q3924.jpg
Who likes my new wallpaper?

70rs

06-25-2011, 01:04 PM

Nathan,
Nice work on the pump!
But those pictures......HOLY SH!* MAN! REALLY NICE SHOTS!!!

1970camaroRS

06-25-2011, 02:58 PM

1970camaroRS

06-25-2011, 03:02 PM

You should consider professional photography! Those are awesome pics:thumbsup:

Stupid fuel pump....

As a matter of fact....that is what I do on the side. Here's a GTO I shot earlier this year:

http://s1046.photobucket.com/albums/b466/EarthonFirePhotography/Jaime%20GTO/

I also do portraits, but mostly trying to get work from airplane magazines.

1970camaroRS

06-25-2011, 03:08 PM

Nathan,
Nice work on the pump!
But those pictures......HOLY SH!* MAN! REALLY NICE SHOTS!!!

Want to know the secret? Rubber cement. It burns really good and long. Then fuel it with lighters fluid for additional flamage!

Vegas69

06-25-2011, 03:53 PM

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like you are using a 90gph, 5 micron filter, on a pump that flows 140gph and needs a minimum of a 40 micron pre-filter. It also looks like it's in a spot that gets wet on a regular basis.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Fram-Autolite/Fram-Performance-Fuel-Filter/745053/10002/-1
If this is indeed the filter you are using, your new pump will suffer the same fate.

70rs

06-25-2011, 03:54 PM

Want to know the secret? Rubber cement. It burns really good and long. Then fuel it with lighters fluid for additional flamage!

The details in those flame shots is really cool!

I snapped a few airplane shots in arlington last week. By thr Glassair shop. Cool little "kit planes". My ex father in law has a pilon racer he used to take me up in. I think he wanted to see how fast he could make me lose my lunch.

1970camaroRS

06-25-2011, 06:18 PM

1970camaroRS

06-25-2011, 11:51 PM

All done for the night. Too tired to move forward.

Fixed all of the leaks. Two of the fittings in the fuel log were finger tight, so that had a lot to do with it. Tefloned all of the NPT fittings and that was that.

Got the electric fuel pressure guage working. I will get pictures of that later. Found that the sendor wasn't getting ground through the fuel fitting it was in. Made a ground strap, grabbed a couple of washers and sandwhiched the terminal end between the fitting and the sendor. Viola, pressure guage works. Only 4psi at the moment, but I will adjust that later.

Disconnected the fuel pump relay ground and started wiring in a on/off toggle switch. (12v switched plus toggled ground). This also allowed me to work on the electrical system without the pump running.

Wired in another relay and breaker for the ignition. Verified there was 12v going to the coil packs. Figured, "hey...there's enough fuel still in the fuel bowls to fire this thing off...". Cranked it over and....nothing. Pulled a plug wire and no spark. Must not be getting a signal from one of the sensors. I will have to figure that out later next week. I have a usb to serial adaptor coming in the mail and I will use the MSD software to see what's happening. No work tommorrow, the McGrew family heads to the Zoo for the day!

1970camaroRS

07-15-2011, 12:03 AM

CAR GOES VROOOM!

Got to thinking about the 12v switched source I was using to power my ignition and fuel pump relays. Could I have picked a source that went to 0 volts while cranking? Hooked up the old volt meter and cranked...sure enough, from 12v to 0 while cranking! Ok, new 12v source needed. Stole the one I was using for my electric fan...same issue. Not a problem for the fan though. Actually want that to quit running while cranking.

So, new approach. Wired 12 volts directly to the ignition and fuel pump relays and made the grounds switched. Well, I planned to make the fuel pump switched earlier, so what's one more toggle switch in my console going to hurt? So, I made up a temp wire to run around into the cabin to ground the ignition relay. Grounded the fuel pump relay long enough to run the pump and fill the fuel bowls. Held the ignition relay ground to a screw in the cabin..pumped the gas and cranked.

Sputter...sputter...sputter.

Ok! Now we're getting somewhere. More fuel. Sputter. More fuel.

VROOOOOM.

I immediately let go of the ground to the ignition and the engine stopped. All is well in my world tonight.

70rs

07-15-2011, 09:46 AM

Thats awesome Nathan! I know it has been a long time since you've been able to fire off any engine in your camaro. Very cool!:cheers:

1970camaroRS

07-15-2011, 11:23 AM

Thats awesome Nathan! I know it has been a long time since you've been able to fire off any engine in your camaro. Very cool!:cheers:

3 years by my count since the last ill-fated start-up of my supercharged 454. Has been 4 years since it has moved under it's own power. Hopefully I will change that on Sunday.

Roughly 2 going on 3 years since I started this project.

I got married, my daughter was born and had her first birthday, added 2nd dog to the clan, moved twice, changed jobs twice all since the last time it ran. Don't even want to get into the list of things that have happened since I last legally drove the car. It was my daily driver at one time.

Oh, ok, maybe I will. It's been 6 years since it has been registered for the road. I was in CA when the procharged 355 let go. Trailered it to my apt in Issaquah, WA after school was done. Towed it to my apt in Everett when I got a new job. Sent it to my buddy's house in Granite Falls and put the BBC in while it was in his garage. Got laid-off. He had it towed to my future father-in-laws house. Sat outside on a trailer where I got it to run as seen here: http://www.myspace.com/video/bigtuffnate/177-blown-454-starts-up/48253963

There it sat for the next year until I found the milky oil. Two apartments later, I rented a house with a garage and had it towed over. This August is 2 years since we've been in the house. Boy how time flies.

1970camaroRS

07-16-2011, 01:35 AM

Wired up the switches for the fuel pump and ignition relays. They work. I know, it surprises even me. Also hooked up the tach signal wire, water temp guage, and the guage lights. Pre-ran the switch wire and installed the switch for the nitrous system.

Odd thing happened. Tried firing it up, pumped gas just like last night. Sputter, sputter...WHOOOOOSH big 6 foot high fireball! That got me out of the car and shaking a bit. Looked everything over and things checked out ok. Gave the car a minute, tried again and it fired up the second I hit the key. Ran it up to 3,000-4,000rpm for about 20 seconds. Damn thing runs well! Let it idle before I shut it off and it was at 1,400rpm. Made sure to adjust the idle screw a bit before I went about the next task.

BTW, this was at 11pm and I shouted into the night, "Sorry! I'M ALL DONE FOR TONIGHT, GOING TO BED! WOOOOHOOOO!" Sure my neighbors enjoyed the open headers for 30 seconds. They will LOVE them on Sunday when I go up and down the block...

To do for street trials:
1. Install steering wheel (removed it due to poor horn wire install job by me and for access to under dash wiring)
2. Reinstall or secure speedo cable
3. Get car off jackstands
4. Clean out car of the tons of crap in, on and around it
5. Fire and idle for leak check, cooling system bleed/function test
6. Find out why electric fuel pressure guage now reads 15psi when turned on, even with pump off... (likely will be replaced with a mechanical under-hood guage)

Then it's off for mufflers and save some money for a hood and registration. Oh and I need to call Hagerty.

1970camaroRS

07-18-2011, 11:36 PM

Fixed the leak at the fuel pump, attached the speedo cable and routed it away from the headers (already previously melted by them), cleaned up some wiring in the engine bay and installed the steering wheel. Then I dropped it onto it's tires for the first time in almost 2 years! Looks so stange sitting so low in the garage now!

Cranked it and it fired easily. Settled into a very high idle. I pumped the brakes a few times and the pedle firmed up. Put it in reverse and let out the brake...barely moved, thanks 3,000 rpm stall converter! Goosed the gas and out into the driveway I went. No more pushing this thing around! Next door neighbor who I hadn't met before came to his door with his daughter to watch.

I jumped out and adjusted the carb, 15 inches of vaccuum at 850rpm idle. Checked for leaks, none could be found anywhere. No coolant, no oil, no fuel, no trans fluid, no power steering fluid (oh wait, no power steering!). That's a first for my car!

Now, on to the bad part. No coolant flow at all. I made sure to fill the block since the LSx design has the thermostat on the suction side. Temp went up to 220+ and no coolant flow at all! Shut it down and went inside to eat a grumpy meal (or a meal grumpily). Came back out and fired it up again, backed out of the driveway and went 50 yards to the end of the street, turned around and goosed the thorttle. Not enough to leave marks (ain't gonna happen in this neighborhood), but enough for my other neighbor to give me a thumbs up. He's working on a GTO, so I'm pretty sure it was a thumbs up....Oh, and the car hits hard when you tell it to.

My other neighbor heard the noise and came over to congratulate me. He help me machine the alternator adaptor earlier.

So, now I wait for a new thermostat to arrive and the fuel pressure guage to arrive as well...hope those are the only gremlins I run into.

Couple of pictures.
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/285070_235818249771591_100000302545291_776465_5223 534_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/284920_235818333104916_100000302545291_776466_3744 845_n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/271025_235818499771566_100000302545291_776468_2158 532_n.jpg

Video will be provided once I fix the cooling issue and my wife is actually home to supervise me...I mean use the camera while I drive. Once the car cools reliably...off to the muffler shop I go!

waynieZ

07-18-2011, 11:40 PM

Congratulation's great progress!

cencalc6

07-19-2011, 06:22 AM

Congrats on your car :cheers:

70rs

07-19-2011, 09:43 AM

Congrats Nathan!!:cheers:

The last time I saw the car outside was when we hauled it over.

I can't wait to see it runnning in person.

1970camaroRS

07-19-2011, 12:35 PM

Thanks! Eric, it's been so long I barely remember that! Can't wait to solve the cooling issue and get some mufflers on it.

70rs

07-19-2011, 12:44 PM

Mufflers.......dont need no stinkin mufflers.......:D

sweetstang68347

07-19-2011, 04:56 PM

Nice fiery fuel pump and sweet car. It's nice when you replace a part and can see why it failed. A smoking gun...

1970camaroRS

07-21-2011, 09:58 PM

Thanks!

New thermostat arrived in the mail today. Tested it and it passed with flying colors opening at an indicated 190ish degrees on the Taylor multiple meat thermometer. I was in such a rush, I forgot the camera and before you knew it, the old one was off and the new one was installed. Spilled barely a drop of coolant (ok...a lot of coolant) into a freshly cleaned bucket, was filtered and replaced. Yes, I admit to doing that, reusing coolant...brand new ran for 10 minutes coolant. Anyway, on to the fun!

I took the old one and wanted to verify it was indeed the cause to my troubles.

How to Cook a Thermostat

1. Place in pot of hot water, turn heating element to 11. (If yours only goes to 10, then just remark 10 to read 11...) Since this is a scientific test and accuracy is key, steal you wife's cooking thermometer, they are actually surprisingly accurate. Tape it, vise grip it or whatever to the pot. (keep a lookout for the wife...she might not like this activity)

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/284985_237180802968669_100000302545291_780859_1298 345_n.jpg

2. Cook until an indicated 190-200 degrees depending on your thermostat's rating. Of course, some of you in those stupid hot states might have one that opens at 160...you can figure out when to stop cooking and check to see if it's done. I let mine go to 200 (197 is the rating on it) and removed to check. Yes, I know it looks much higher than 200...that's the angle of the picture, it was 200, trust me. Not that it would have mattered.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/285271_237180816302001_100000302545291_780860_6768 125_n.jpg

3. Check to see if it opened!

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/285109_237180979635318_100000302545291_780864_6994 592_n.jpg

Ruh-roh.
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/282451_237180879635328_100000302545291_780862_7015 446_n.jpg

4. Repeat if necessary. I let mine go until I saw movement in the element. 230-250ish degrees...not sure how accurate this thing is off the chart.
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/284835_237180926301990_100000302545291_780863_9316 35_n.jpg

Finally.
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/285399_237181022968647_100000302545291_780865_6391 778_n.jpg

The car went to from 190 to 240 degrees indicated very quickly before I shut down last weekend without any coolant flow. Now I know why.

On Sunday I should be able to install my mechanical fuel pressure gauge and set the correct fuel pressure. Then some more coolant to top things off and find out if the cooling system actually works now!

1970camaroRS

07-25-2011, 01:15 AM

No video yet since the videographer was away again today. Installed the mechanical fuel pressure gauge, set the PSI at 7lbs (or near there). Added another half gallon of coolant and fired it up. Backed it into the driveway as stuff was falling off the shelves in the garage...damn this thing is loud and thumps hard. Went up to 200...cooling hoses got warm finally. Temp dropped briefly. Good, coolant is circulating. Got up almost to 210 and the fan turned on. Dropped temp to about 200 again and fan turned off. It's all working perfectly. Idled for about 20 minutes without overheating. I think it's ready to be tagged and go for a drive to get mufflers.

Video WILL be coming, I promise.

70rs

07-25-2011, 12:10 PM

I want to hear it without the mfflers......at 6000 rpm.:D

1970camaroRS

07-25-2011, 12:30 PM

I want to hear it without the mfflers......at 6000 rpm.:D

Bring your gun to fend off my neighbors!

Actually, idle alone is fairly impressive with the cam that's in it.

rwhite692

07-25-2011, 12:34 PM

Good on ya, for checking the thermostat. I've had brand new ones (a good ol Robertshaw, and one Napa) fail on me twice, and now I always test them out beforehand.

1970camaroRS

08-01-2011, 09:54 PM

Problem: My 2000 Camaro SS overheated this weekend and ate it's LS1. No oil pressure.... :(

Solution: Make my 1970 Camaro my daily driver again until I can replace the 2000 Camaro's motor (LY6 maybe?)

Problem: My 1970 looks kind of like this:

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/264053_219230304763719_100000302545291_730329_2547 34_n.jpg

There is no money for a new hood....

Solution: Best redneck repair I've ever done...I hope. Involves duct tape, epoxy, and rustolium. It should get me through the summer.

Also needed: Exhaust, registration and insurance. Will be taken care of Thursday. By Monday I should be taking it to work every day...

70rs

08-01-2011, 11:34 PM

Ill call you tomorrow evening on that hood solution.

1970camaroRS

08-02-2011, 10:13 PM

Changed the oil in the 2000...fired up....pressure was a bit wavy for a bit...then it was strong and normal. Slight....very...very slight ticking noise. I'll change the pump and stat and fix the overflow hose and see what happens. 1970 got it's steering wheel straightened, wires and terminals covered, and the redneck repair of the hood is drying and will be painted tomorrow. Have a line on another 2" cowl for next to nothing that I might grab.

70rs

08-02-2011, 11:05 PM

Hood delivery sunday. Hope it clears everything!:cheers:

1970camaroRS

08-03-2011, 12:51 AM

Hood delivery sunday. Hope it clears everything!:cheers:

And that is why car guys are awesome. Still going to finish the redneck hood. Need it for the trip to the muffler shop on Thursday anyway.

1970camaroRS

08-04-2011, 09:05 PM

This update contains 200% more video.

Got the Camaro off to the exhaust shop today. Made it 7 miles or so without any major issues. Only big squawk is a coolant leak from the heater hose at the waterpump. Went between 200 and 205 degrees most of the time. Almost got to 210 at one point. Not bad for an 80 degree day. Steering wheel still isn't very straight and is really loose on center. But I was expecting that from a used box. Going to have to get used to the manual steering, it's not too bad though. Like to try to make multiple lane changes when I only want one... Brakes are a bit soft, I will have to flush the lines and bleed them later. And find and fix the coolant leak. And I should have a replacement hood coming.

You have to love the backyard repair I did to the hood. Can't see it very well in the videos. Actually doesn't look half bad from far away. A little duct tape, some epoxy and the high temp rustolium.

Also, what do you do if your exhaust system you need to have modified won't fit in your car? Redneck it to the top of your car of course!

Videos as promised.

http://youtu.be/TcU2u8vhAsU

http://youtu.be/TRdqwI_wJhs

Oh, and this was WAY too fun for words! Drove it really gentle since this was the first time on a long distance drive...but I can tell it will move out when I'm ready to give it a go!

70rs

08-05-2011, 01:40 AM

Its ALIVE! MOVING,UNDER ITS OWN POWER ON PUBIC ROADS! :thumbsup:

Ron in SoCal

08-05-2011, 12:12 PM

That wasn't too loud...Congrats! :thumbsup:

1970camaroRS

08-09-2011, 10:51 PM

Made it home after one problem after another on the drive home. Car started missing and chugging while climbing a hill then died on the way down. Found zero fuel pressure when I pulled over. Wracked my brain to try and figure it out. Did my brand new pump take a dump on me?

Had my sister in law come pick me up and I grabbed my tools (should have had the damn things with me) and my 5 gallon fuel can. Figured I would be smart and try putting more fuel in before I went messing with anything else. Well, I'm absolutely shocked that with some actual fuel in the tank the fuel pressure came back...imagine that. Car fired and ran just fine. That's when the 2nd problem occurred.

Earlier, the vent petcock had come loose and allowed coolant to spew all over the place. I tightened it, checked the radiator level and figured I was good. Nope, thermostat opened and emptied the radiator into the block. Temp went above 210, I pulled over and shut down. Sis-in-law once again took me back to my house and I grabbed some more coolant and returned to the car. Filled it up, let in idle for a heat cycle and viola...car is fine.

So, now it is home in the garage and I'm a bit wary of it, but it sounds great, has more power than I was expecting and all the kinks should work themselves out over time.

Video
http://youtu.be/9qzpsv5MFgQ

68400BIRD

08-10-2011, 09:34 AM

Sounds great. Now we need pictures with the hood on. Just keep driving the car a little further from home each time and work out all of the small bugs. Before you know it you will be driving any distance and the only thing you will be worrying about is the gas money.:lol:

70rs

08-10-2011, 01:09 PM

Sorry to hear about the problems. How does that hood I brought over fit?

1970camaroRS

08-10-2011, 06:00 PM

Sorry to hear about the problems. How does that hood I brought over fit?

I should find out tonight when I finally get home from work!

(by the way, that was me calling for help yesterday, in case you were wondering!)

70rs

08-10-2011, 09:35 PM

I should find out tonight when I finally get home from work!

(by the way, that was me calling for help yesterday, in case you were wondering!)

Oh **** buddy! I am sorry I missed your call. I was out in Stanwood all day and didn't see you called until about 8pm. I would have come out to help had I known.

1970camaroRS

08-10-2011, 09:52 PM

Oh **** buddy! I am sorry I missed your call. I was out in Stanwood all day and didn't see you called until about 8pm. I would have come out to help had I known.

I know you would have! It was ok anyway, my sister in law was closer.

Fixed a few various leaks today. Tuned the carb just a wee bit more and went for a really, really fun drive. BTW, 7,000rpm comes really quick in 1st gear!

Perhaps a bit of an extended cruise will happen tomorrow and then a drive to Bellingham on Friday. The new hood will have to wait until later...redneck hood is working in the meantime.

1970camaroRS

08-12-2011, 12:12 AM

Took the car out for a test drive today. Adjusted the idle and put 3/4 of a tank in it and drove it to the waterfront in Mukilteo, WA. Ran well, was responsive and didn't stumble much, so the carb was close. Chugged a bit in 4th gear with the lockup anywhere close to or below 60mph. On the downhill run to the waterfront, a long 2 or 3 mile steep grade where you're essentially coasting, the car started stumbling a bit. Then when I got to the parking lot the idle went to crap and hunted and the car wanted to die. Jumped out and checked everything and it physically seemed fine, so I tried to adjust the carb by ear and messed it up worse.

Took some pictures in a hurry and didn't do my normal good job...but I was too busy thinking about trying to get home. I headed up the hill as quick as possible because at high RPM, the trouble went away. Almost got back to the freeway and I heard an odd sound, like something metalic being tossed from the car. Then, my belt started squealing and the temp started rising. Pulled into a church parking lot (2nd church in two days!) to find out what was wrong.

I almost missed it, but there it was...the supporting bolt on the alternator snapped off in the head. The sound I heard was the spacer going bye-bye. So, there I am, miles from home, a snapped bolt in my head...how the hell do I rig this back up to get me home? I just tucked the support rod under the alternator and wedged it against the main bracket. Worked like a charm..and the car starting running fine again, except for the fact I messed with the idle screws too much.

Started limping it home, and wouldn't you know it, but at the next light some kid in a Honda Civic pulled up next to me. It was the wrong place, wrong time and the roads were wet from a nearby sprinkler system. No way was I going to race him. After we made a left turn (both lanes turn left) he floored it and moved off ever so slowly. Then, a 2003ish Mustang went ripping by from behind and blew past him. Meanwhile, I'm just chugging along hoping my belt won't fly off. Around the next corner, what do I see? The Honda pulled over, oil everywhere, smoke pouring from under the hood and the acrid smell of what I think was burned clutch. Well, I guess that sucks to break when you're racing nobody. On the street. In a dangerous area. Kinda dumb.

So, here are some pictures from tonight.

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/262544_247153065304776_100000302545291_813099_3513 516_n.jpg

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/285520_247153118638104_100000302545291_813101_8371 272_n.jpg

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/285539_247153135304769_100000302545291_813102_5427 42_n.jpg

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/198797_247153148638101_100000302545291_813103_6102 911_n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/285181_247153178638098_100000302545291_813104_4631 319_n.jpg

And the broken alternator support. I think the angle was too sharp and I should have connected the support close to the head with a stronger bolt.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/267305_247153198638096_100000302545291_813105_3985 116_n.jpg

Stupid bolt.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/223636_247153225304760_100000302545291_813106_7507 387_n.jpg

1970camaroRS

08-18-2011, 12:41 PM

Fixed the alternator mount and re-tuned the carb. Took it for it's longest drive yet, about 20 miles of mixed freeway and street driving. Both the car and the wife survived the trip. Seems to like idling at ~900rpm in gear, but it idles rich and I can't seem to lean it out much without killing the idle altogether. Part throttle cruise sucks below 2000rpm unless I'm in 4th gear and locked up. There's a bit of a flat spot/hesitation when transitioning out of idle or cruise. WOT works wonderfully...but I suspect I can lean it all out a bit. More tuning to come...along with a lot more driving.

1970camaroRS

08-22-2011, 11:43 PM

Drove it about 100 miles round trip with a couple of full throttle runs to scare the hell out of my parents when I took them for a ride this weekend. Did maybe 16mpg, still running very rich at idle/cruise. Seems to cruise well at 3200rpm (just shy of 100mph) in 4th gear. Hope to get this thing on the track once before the summer is over...running out of time!

computeruse20.0

08-23-2011, 02:03 AM

Nice project looks like you know what you want. I do have a question why ls6 heads and not the l92?

1970camaroRS

08-23-2011, 07:55 AM

Nice project looks like you know what you want. I do have a question why ls6 heads and not the l92?

The heads are CnC ported and flow close to the same as stock L92(if not slightly better) with a smaller port size and valves. And a smaller combustion chamber (milled down to an even smaller size) for a much needed boost in compression ratio. I was also able to run a much larger cam without having any piston to valve clearance issues some guys with L92 heads run into. The biggest thing was they were actually cheaper than a new L92 setup.

rixtrix1

08-24-2011, 10:02 PM

Looks like you've got as great project going, Nathan. As for your running rich problem. I may have a couple of suggestions. First, make sure your power valve doesn't have a blown diaphragm( unless it's been blocked off), then put a vacuum guage on the engine so you can drive it at the rpm range when it runs poorly. Make sure the PV is of a low enough vacuum rating that it isn't opening at part throttle and flooding the engine. I. E.: IF off idle vacuum is 10 inches, try a power valve that's 5-6 inches to keep it from opening too soon, or even a smaller number PV if it's still running rich and stumbling

Next, what are you running for jets front and rear? You may want to try front jets that are 2-4 numbers less than the rears to start to help the part throttle driveability.

Accelerator pump cams and discharge nozzles are a whole 'nuther thing that affect hesitation during throttle transitions.

Good Luck.

Ric

1970camaroRS

08-26-2011, 10:03 PM

Burnout of the redneck machine. Got caught up trying to keep her straight and shifted to 2nd when my shift light reminded me I was being dumb. (6,500rpm). Shifted to 3rd, hit the brakes. The sound you hear at the end is the serpentine belt slipping when the engine decelerates. Kind of worried about getting caught in the area, so I kept it short and didn't do a full brake stand.

http://youtu.be/_JYqEPle7Ss

70rs

08-26-2011, 11:36 PM

Nice. I recognize that spot. I hope security was on break. Lol!

Im really glad you are getting to finally enjoy the car. It's been way too long since you had it truly out on the road as a driver. Very cool.:cheers:

DIGI-TAILS

08-27-2011, 12:12 AM

gOOd job!!! congrats!!!! :thumbsup:

Leadfoot1

08-27-2011, 08:54 AM

Yeah!!! One more on the road!!!!

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Lead.

1970camaroRS

09-05-2011, 09:26 PM

Ever since getting my build running, I've been having trouble with it being rich everywhere...at idle...at WOT...at cruise. I tuned with screws as best as I can to no avail. Finally, I decided to go back into the carb and see what's going on. Turns out the jets I was running were 76 primary and 85 secondary! Holy cow. I screwed this carb together almost two years ago and I don't know what I was thinking there. So, out the went and now I have 72 primary and 78 secondary. Also checked the squirter size while I was at it and I had 31's. Moved up to 35s and the part throttle hesitation I've been having went away, but the WOT tip in from idle still has a bit of a lurch in it.

The sun was setting so I didn't have time to redo the idle and mixture, they weren't far off when I fired it up. Took it for a run up and down a nearby 4 lane. Man, does this thing rip now. First gear is close to useless (have to peddle it), second gear gets loose, but the feeling of the horsepower pulling past 6,000rpm to 7,000rpm is incredible.

Now to go about fixing that stupid belt squeal. Probably going to delete the tensioner and use the alternator rod from my custom setup.

1970camaroRS

09-23-2011, 11:31 PM

Just got back. Only had two runs. I figure my race weight was 3650 or more. I'm a heavy dude at 350lbs, although I was 430lbs 5 months ago!

#1

Tires at 22lbs, easy launch, shifts at 6,500rpm (maiden voyage)
R/T - .428 (it's been 8 years, ok!)
60 - 1.892 (launched easy and peddled it because the tires hooked and it actually scared me a litte, used to a bit of spin)
330 - 5.353
1/8 - 8.140
MPH - 88.47
1000 - 10.554
1/4 - 12.590
MPH - 111

Expected a little bit more, but what can you ask for on the first trip? Nothing broke!

#2
Tires at 20lbs, footbraked, shifts set to 7,000rpm

Well, I pushed through the lights on the first yellow....no timing. However, the damn thing hooked well and the shifts at 7,000rpm really helped. Then there were sparks shooting out of the cowl from under the hood. They came from the direction of the alternator. Lifted at the 60'.

Things to fix - the accessories. Lots of flex, lots of slack in the belt and I think the sparks were from the alt pulley spinning on the shaft at 7,000rpm. Also, the car must go on a diet. Will work on that this summer. And the car needs more time being tuned. I am happy with 111 mph on an easy pass though. There's always that blue bottle in the trunk too...

1970camaroRS

09-26-2011, 12:46 PM

I found out where the sparks were coming from. I took the belt off and checked the tensioner, water pump and alternator pulleys. Waterpump and tensior spun like they should. The alternator would spin over 1/2 of the way and then hit something and slow down...it would even come to a stop sometimes. Appears as though the shaft is bent, or a bearing has gone bad letting it bind at a specific point during rotation. It must have been getting awful hot near the end of the run causing material to spit all over the engine compartment. Funny thing, it was still putting out voltage! Wonder how much power that thing was robbing...

I think I might scrap my whole alternator setup and go with a Katech tensioner and a Kwik Performance alternator bracket. I will obviously need a new alternator too. However, looks like the season is over up here in Washington, so I won't have new times until next spring.

1970camaroRS

09-26-2011, 04:00 PM

In addition to fixing the accessories, my winter weight loss and performance plan is this:
1. Lighter rear spring - looks to be nothing but expensive options
2. Replace power window/power lock doors with gutted doors and lexan windows - lots of work, cheap to do
3. Remove all interior except for driver's seat, replace with budget racing seat - free + cost of new seat
4. Remove front sway bar - free (will sell, its a nice thick Hellawig piece)
5. Aluminum wheels (pizza cutters up front) if the budget allows

This an a change from 3.73 gears to 4.56 gears should make the car just a bit quicker.

camcojb

09-26-2011, 04:23 PM

congrats on the progress Nathan.

1970camaroRS

09-27-2011, 02:03 PM

Thanks!

Took the alternator apart to have a look-see. Took the pulley off halfway expecting it to be the cause of the friction. Nope, it still hung up every 180 degrees. So, I opened the case and found this:

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/310980_269332656420150_100000302545291_888702_1837 929567_n.jpg

Rotor is worn down badly and heat burned. Bad news.

Then there was this:
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/316214_269332736420142_100000302545291_888703_4230 53164_n.jpg

Going out on a limb here, but I think that is not supposed to look like that...

And as I suspected, the pulley spun a little bit due to the alternator not wanting to:

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/318438_269332819753467_100000302545291_888704_1927 371297_n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/297097_269332896420126_100000302545291_888705_6477 24537_n.jpg

Anyway, like I said, I'm not 100% happy with the alternator setup anyway, so I'm going a different direction when I get around to replacing this.

1970camaroRS

09-30-2011, 12:43 AM

Not sure what I'm doing here....

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/298777_270405622979520_100000302545291_891653_4934 31419_n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/309346_270405639646185_100000302545291_891654_1207 353791_n.jpg

Oh, that's right...I'm stripping out the old ratty interior. Not going to put it back in either. This is step one of the diet the Camaro is getting this winter. It's going to get a little extreme.

Here is a box-o-interior parts. Not much in there is salvageable, but I will sort it out later.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/300649_270405649646184_100000302545291_891655_1217 590864_n.jpg

Oh yeah, yanked this sucker out too.
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/309484_270405292979553_100000302545291_891649_1850 116846_n.jpg

I will be weighing everything I take out and everything I put back in.

The plan:
Steel wheels to aluminum (prostars maybe...3.5" front, 8" rear)
doors from power lock/window to manual with crash beam removed
door glass to lexan
door panels remove
Windshield to lexan...maybe
Rear window to lexan
fiberglass trunk replace stock
Passenger seat remove
Drivers seat to race seat
Rear Seats remove
Front sway bar remove
Complete wiper assy remove...maybe
Radio and speakers remove
Charcoal Canister remove
Carpet remove
5-Leaf Springs to split monos

1970camaroRS

09-30-2011, 10:48 PM

Weighed some things tonight that I yanked out.

(all weight rounded to the nearest pound)
Big giant 1-5/16" Hellawig swaybar and hardware - 26lbs
Rear seat back - 19lbs
Rear seat bottom - 6lbs (each) 12lbs total
Passenger seat- 38lbs
Misc headliner hardware and interior trim (lots still left in car!) - 6lbs
Door panels - 6lbs (each) 12lbs total

Total weight removed from car - 113lbs!

Still to do:
replace driver's seat with race seat - est 26lbs savings
replace power window doors with manual doors with no crash beam - who knows, lots?!?!
replace rear glass and side glass with lexan - 53lbs - weight of lexan (keeping windshield glass)
seat belts - 15lbs
trunk lid to fiberglass - 25lbs - weight of glass lid
remove wipers - unknown
5-leaf to split mono - est 15lbs, but could be more
Steel wheels to aluminum - 64lbs + (but this one aint cheap!)
Radio and speakers - maybe 6lbs?
Plus whatever else I find, carpet, trim, pieces of the dash, etc. More than 200lbs more for sure...if not closer to 300lbs. I will try to remember to weigh everything I pull out and weigh everything I put back in.

Please stop me before I pull the hole saw out!

Vegas69

09-30-2011, 11:20 PM

I thought this was a daily driver?

70rs

10-01-2011, 12:23 AM

I thought this was a daily driver?

Daily dragster.

1970camaroRS

10-01-2011, 11:33 AM

I thought this was a daily driver?

Went to the track for the first time in 8 years, and things change....

I'm aiming squarely for the not fun to drive every day category now.

Leadfoot1

10-01-2011, 01:24 PM

....exactly what happenned to me when i went to the track with a friend and his car one w-end as i was just starting my Camaro project...Yeah, I was shootin for a big time PT project and i was all pumped up when, after a frustrating afternoon of trying to run 9's and only beeing able to do 10.04-5's we put the nitrous on ''KILL'' and he said ''if the season ends here so be it, we're doing a nine before we leave''...Well it ran a 9.96 sooo.....I ended up selling more than 10 grand worth of gathered Pro Touring parts and buying an 8-71 blown 468 big block / braked Th400 car to strip it of all its heavy duty stuff to build up the Camaro.......I was hooked back on Drag racing big time!!

I can relate.

Now, i just finished the Camaro, but more than that, i recently bought the Camaro the guy (Friend) i had sold my parts to was building so i am recuperating the Pro Tour stuff i had sold and might finish it after all...Just to tell you it'll come around if you want to, when you want to.

Cool deal, you're having fun... and thats what counts!!! I wanted to share my story so you can look ahead and be aware that you can always come back even if you steer away a little... The important is having a ball!!!

Oh and, POST UP SOME PICS,,,,been awhile no??

Lead.

1970camaroRS

10-02-2011, 09:39 PM

Ok, so tonight out came the driver's seat, all the stock seat belts, misc trim (sill plates, headliner anchor, etc) and passenger area plastics. Obviously the driver's seat and a set of belts are going back in, but they will be much lighter.

Driver's seat - 36lbs (2lbs light than the passenger seat...go figure. It was missing a bunch of foam though)
Passenger side panels - 8lbs
Stock Seat belts - 8lbs
Misc trim - 6lbs

total - 58lbs
previous total - 113 lbs
new total - 171 lbs

Tomorrow the carpet, sound deadener, stereo speakers and whatever else I have time to yank out will be on the floor of my garage. Should be over 200 lbs lost by tomorrow.

1970camaroRS

10-06-2011, 08:32 PM

Pulled the carpets the other night and then had my workout tonight scraping the sound deadener out of the car! Also pulled the speakers out.

Carpet (front and rear) - 13lbs
Sound Deadener - 30lbs (left a bunch behind too!)
Rear Speakers - 7lbs.

Tonight's total - 50lbs
Previous total- 171lbs
New Total- 221lbs

Still have a few more bits of this and that in the interior to come out.

1970camaroRS

10-07-2011, 07:19 PM

Something came in the mail today:

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/311060_273790825974333_100000302545291_903093_1203 746561_n.jpg

It's a Kwik Performance alternator only bracket for truck waterpump and pulley. Very nice piece...not the cheapest in the world, so definitely not 'budget', but I plan on replacing anything that fails or doesn't meet expectations with a better part on a case by case basis.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/319903_273790912640991_100000302545291_903096_1739 103448_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/313360_273790949307654_100000302545291_903099_3072 60725_n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/297834_273790972640985_100000302545291_903100_1019 92264_n.jpg

Also, where in the heck did my interior go?

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/312750_273791035974312_100000302545291_903103_1198 809898_n.jpg

Nope not here...
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/300715_273791109307638_100000302545291_903106_6737 5036_n.jpg

Oh there it is.
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/307364_273791185974297_100000302545291_903111_1486 951200_n.jpg

Weighed some more knick-knacks and lost 3 more lbs today. Also, the new alternator bracket is 1 lb light than the old one. It all counts!

Total Loss- 225lbs

1970camaroRS

12-04-2011, 08:30 PM

Finally got some work done on the car today. Buddy came over and helped liberate a few items I won't need anymore. Like the wipers and some trim here and there. Also yanked the doors off and weighed them. Also weighed the doors I will be putting on after I gut them for a good before and after measure.

So here is the weight-loss list.
Current total- 225 lbs
Charcoal canister - 3 lbs
Wiper assembly - 3 lbs
Wiper motor - 6 lbs
Misc door and rear window trim and rocker wire covers - 6 lbs
Upper dash - 7 lbs
Lower dash - 5 lbs
Gauge cluster - 3 lbs
New total - 258 lbs

Now the fun part.
1978 Type LT power window and lock doors - 105 lbs
1970 Manual crank doors - 95 lbs
10 lbs per door, 20 lbs total brings the weight loss up to 278 lbs. But I won't count this because even more weight will be coming out of the doors soon.

onelapduster

12-16-2011, 05:41 AM

Lots of work being put into this build, what are the plans for the doors?

1970camaroRS

12-28-2011, 10:46 PM

Lots of work being put into this build, what are the plans for the doors?

Everything is being removed except the latches (glass, regulators, crash beams, inner structure). Lexan will replace the glass. Looking to lose more than 300lbs from the car.

1970camaroRS

12-28-2011, 10:48 PM

Cleaned out the garage today (boxes that stuff for christmas stuff, why do you end up on top of my Camaro?). Also picked up a set of plastic race seats, some aluminum stock to make brackets and a 160 degree t-stat. I've been working a TON of over-time for Boeing the last few weeks, so more parts are on their way to help me on my quest to lose weight.

Things to do:
1. Make an aluminum dash to hold autometer gauges. (oil press, water temp, fuel level, fuel PSI, volts...no speedo...) and switch panel (ignition, fuel pump, cooling fan, lights, heater fan, nitrous).
2. Fab brackets and install seats.
3. Gut doors and install them.
4. Remove rear glass and replace with lexan (actually going to be poly).
5. Install lexan door windows
6. New fuel pump brackets
7. R&R t-stat
8. Install 4.30 gears
9. Install new alternator and manual tensioner
10. Metco breather?

Also...maybe...
1. Calvert split mono springs
2. Weld prostars...skinnies up front. Looking to get over that 300lb weight loss mark
3. Revise exhaust- remove spintech side exit power-killing setup and replace with dynomax race mufflers out the side.

1970camaroRS

01-17-2012, 08:47 PM

Here's the Katech manual tensioner pulley that I got in the mail the other day. Awesome piece. Only thing is that I wish they included some new nicer looking bolts. You have to reuse your old ones or pick up a new set yourself. Now, some of you may be asking...what the hell happened to this being a budget build? This and the KWIK bracket aren't cheap. No, they aren't...but the only thing that almost left me stranded TWICE while shaking the car down this summer was the accessory drive system. So, it was decided to invest in what is basically the killer solution.

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/404764_329424710410944_100000302545291_1080656_922 924275_n.jpg

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/403229_329424697077612_100000302545291_1080655_194 2145621_n.jpg

Alternator is on it's way next. Along with a set of used Drag Star 15x3.75" front runners. Grabbing some tires next week and maybe the gauges and switch panel needed to complete my dash. Working on mounting the driver's seat back in the car. Also grabbing a set of bullet style race mufflers to replace the nice quiet Spintech setup that I believe is robbing me of more than it's fair share of HP. Pace of the project should be ramping up here as we get closer to spring.

1970camaroRS

01-25-2012, 09:40 AM

Started working on the doors last night. Found out how much I need to upgrade my drill. I've been putting it off for too long. Guess I will stop by the tool store soon. Anyway, so far I've found some new things to weigh.

Door Glass: 15 lbs
Regulators: 12 lbs
Difference from power doors: 10 lbs
Total: 37lbs
x2 74 lbs

Added to the previous balance of 258lbs and I've taken 332 lbs out of the car.
I have a set of 15" x 3.75" aluminum race stars sitting in my office, so I need to weigh those and the steel wheels that are coming off. And I'm busy cutting the door beams out. Still planning on replacing the rear glass, deck lid and springs as money become available. Plus I now need matching rear aluminum tires.

Only stuff going back in that I need to weigh is the race seat, aluminum dash and gauges, lexan and deck lid. Wonder if I can push the net weight loss to 400lbs. My goal was 300lbs!

There are also a pair of Schoendfeld race mufflers coming to replace the restrictive yet very pleasant Spintech system.

Pictures of the progress to come later tonight.

brownz

01-25-2012, 06:29 PM

[QUOTE=1970camaroRS;390328]Here's the Katech manual tensioner pulley that I got in the mail the other day. Awesome piece. Only thing is that I wish they included some new nicer looking bolts. You have to reuse your old ones or pick up a new set yourself. Now, some of you may be asking...what the hell happened to this being a budget build? This and the KWIK bracket aren't cheap. No, they aren't...but the only thing that almost left me stranded TWICE while shaking the car down this summer was the accessory drive system. So, it was decided to invest in what is basically the killer solution.

I have the kwik ac braclet and the Katech tensioner. Do you also have th a/c bracket or just the alternator? I dont have much room to swing the tensioner so i hope i can find the correct size belt that is a little tight.

1970camaroRS

01-25-2012, 09:13 PM

1970camaroRS

01-26-2012, 03:56 PM

Here we go, some more boring work in progress pictures. BTW, the glass weighed in at 15lbs and the regulators and associated hardware are 12lbs. If the beam is 24 lbs...that's 51 lbs per door. 102 lbs total on both doors. That's frigging amazing.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/426034_335309863155762_100000302545291_1094625_942 2497_n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/429196_335305953156153_100000302545291_1094620_580 185835_n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/430820_335308213155927_100000302545291_1094622_113 0579294_n.jpg

Hard to see here, but I'm trying to point out the spot-welds. This end (latch end) proved to be difficult. Holes didn't look so neat, no pictures of that. If I end up giving up on cutting the beam in half, the latch end might get opened up. I'll cover the hole with fiberglass most likely. Or rivet in some sheet metal I have laying around.
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/421444_335309376489144_100000302545291_1094623_199 9304564_n.jpg

Here I am cutting the door beam in half. My 3" wheel isn't deep enough to reach the channel on the skin side. Might cut a notch out that will let me get at that channel. Or I'll just cut a hole in the door as mentioned before. I will also be cutting out some structure of the door since I won't be using regulators anymore.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/404479_335310573155691_100000302545291_1094628_212 0989227_n.jpg

Also, you will notice I changed to using my Iphone 4 for pictures. Not going to use my $5,000 setup anymore. Especially with metal shavings flying about.

1970camaroRS

01-26-2012, 08:16 PM

After messing with trying to cut the beam in half for way too long, I gave up and cut a hole in on the latch side of the door.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/418039_335438239809591_100000302545291_1094949_186 2888555_n.jpg

Beam came right now, no problem!

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/400492_335438636476218_100000302545291_1094950_101 864290_n.jpg

This thing is BIG!
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/421826_335438886476193_100000302545291_1094951_161 9571353_n.jpg

Now the big news. They only weigh about 16 lbs! From what others have found, the bars in later cars are much heavier! Lets add up what the doors weigh and what can be removed from them.

Doors (with interior panels) - 111 lbs
Interior panel - 6 lbs (counted earlier)
Glass - 15 lbs
Regulators - 12 lbs
Crash Beam - 16 lbs
Total removed - 49 lbs
New door weight - 62 lbs

I bet the hinges are going to be much happier. I'm going to carve a few more lbs out of the inner structure, make and aluminum inner panel (VERY thin gauge) and install lexan. I bet it won't add too much weight back into them.

Running total-
332 + 32 (crash beams) = 364 lbs out of the car. More to come.

1970camaroRS

01-27-2012, 07:15 PM

Here's some new stuff. Here's what I currently have for front wheels/tires. They are Cragar soft 8 steel wheels and yokohama 235/60r15 tires. Cheap and effective for when the car was a daily driver.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/431454_336101696409912_100000302545291_1096396_360 286689_n.jpg

BUT, insanely heavy! 50 lbs per wheel/tire!
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/408826_336101456409936_100000302545291_1096395_853 587076_n.jpg

Replacing it with these tires. M/T SR 165 radials. 18 lbs per tire.
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/431183_336101923076556_100000302545291_1096397_448 196583_n.jpg

And these wheels. Race Star 15" x 3.75" aluminum. 12 lbs.
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/397867_336102056409876_100000302545291_1096399_131 9515733_n.jpg

So, that's 30lbs per wheel/tire. 20lbs less than the previous setup. So, 40lbs total coming off the car!
Added to the previous 364 lbs, that's 404 lbs!

Still going to remove misc metal here and there. I expect 10-15 lbs per wheel in the back, but I'm keeping the 255 M/T radials. Then there's the rear glass and decklid. And the springs.

Oh, and here are my new "mufflers". Schoenfeld bullets. Need to replace the spintech setup I have with its crazy 2 180 degree bends. Will run 3" from the x-pipe out the side. Should also pull another 15 lbs or more out of the car. Don't think I will get away with this on the street...but we will find out. Also going to stock up on ear-plugs.
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/404232_336103836409698_100000302545291_1096403_174 0719457_n.jpg

If this cuts down 10 db of noise, I will be shocked.
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/395260_336103933076355_2049465963_n.jpg

1970camaroRS

02-07-2012, 07:05 PM

And so it has been decided. The nitrous system is coming off and the cam is being changed out. Working on getting at the G5x3 I have in there now. I will stick the stock truck cam back in to keep the lifters at bay for now. Will likely go with this guy here: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-190265-10/

Pulled the nitrous plate last night. The new hood fits now. Just need to glass over some holes and get some 1/4 turn fasteners. Also, can this car get any more redneck? I think so!
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/396391_343846725635409_100000302545291_1117700_205 207224_n.jpg

Here's my helper...I think she may be slowing me down worse than my dog did. But she's more fun.
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/430107_343845672302181_100000302545291_1117696_123 5042848_n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/426475_343846135635468_100000302545291_1117697_191 2212302_n.jpg

Also decided to check something. I have been suspecting that I wasn't getting full butterfly opening on the secondaries. I was right.
http://youtu.be/wAXicGT1Ow0

I trapped 111mph with almost no secondaries.

So I took the TV cable off and tried again.
http://youtu.be/0QKGbczGKbI

ALMOST perfect. So, I adjusted the linkage and reattached the TV cable.
http://youtu.be/TOVqzQKk7Mw

Better, but still not there. This will take a little more work to get right. Anyway...off to go pull things off the front of the engine so I can get that cam out.

waynieZ

02-07-2012, 09:02 PM

Wow thats a lot of weight in those doors.

1970camaroRS

02-08-2012, 02:08 AM

Wow thats a lot of weight in those doors.

Yes, yes it is. They are much easier to move around in my garage now.

1970camaroRS

03-31-2012, 11:22 PM

Team McGrew Racing (not really a team, and there isn't really any racing going on) had a major setback today. Went to complete the swap of the new Howards Cams camshaft and when I pulled the stocker out that was a place holder after I sold the G5X3, I heard, "plunk, plunk, plunk". Got bit my the lifter retainers not 'retaining'. FML. So, I began the tear down to get the heads off and I will be attempting to fish the lifters out of the pan without having to pull the motor...

While doing the tear-down I discovered that the #2 spark plug had cracked porcelain and wasn't making much fire on that cylinder. Between that fact and the secondaries not opening even half-way, the performance I turned in with this thing last summer isn't too bad.

Bad news is that since I have two full-time jobs and a 2 year old running around...this project will be complete sometime 3rd quarter of 2014....

1970camaroRS

04-15-2012, 08:24 PM

Got the oil pan and windage tray off this weekend. Only had to jack up the nose of the engine a few inches. All lifters are now accounted for. Waiting for a degree kit that's coming my way and I will do a by the books cam install. Might grab something to replace this H2 oil pan as well...

camcojb

04-15-2012, 08:28 PM

progress. :thumbsup:

1970camaroRS

04-29-2012, 05:32 PM

Not a huge update, but I'm still whittling away at it. Starting a photography business and that's been taking up a lot of my time and money. Anyway, while I'm waiting for a cam degree kit I have been hacking on the car a bit more. I pulled out the parking brake pedal, the in cabin cable, the kick panels and vents, center dash speaker, lower right hand dash support structure and trimmed a few odds and ends off the driver side dash support. Also pulled out the speedo cable. Still have to grab the rest of the parking brake cables and brackets from under the car. Next up is removing the rear glass and the trunk lid. Might go get started on that after I'm done with my break here.

Weighed the junk I pulled out and it came to 18lbs.
Previous total is 404lbs lost.
New total is 422lbs.