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tgvettes
12-17-2009, 08:05 PM
Does anyone have plans for a basic frame table?

Tonny

deuce_454
12-17-2009, 11:47 PM
square and level... :D

70rs
12-18-2009, 12:04 AM
square and level... :D

And about "this" wide X "that" long. ;)

Just kidding you. There are several frame tables in the various build threads and they all look different. Maybe take a look and see if one catches your eye and contact the owner for dimensions and material specs? Just a thought is all. Good luck with it.:cheers:

deuce_454
12-18-2009, 04:01 AM
^ what he said... it depends on your frame i guess... and possibly whatever the local scrap metal yard has in oversized square..

if you want to do suspension work i woild make it same width as the trackwidth of the car your building.... that way yióu can mount the spindles and rearend in the plates all the way outboard.. (and it wont obstruct too much....)

the length.. again same as your car... and have 4 bars across.. and 8 legs, one at each intersection....

and weld some large 3/4 inch nuts to the bottom of the legs so you can level it with 8 3/4 inch bolts as legs.. (make any sense)

and make sure you have a tab where you can mount your welding ground when you work

the height... id shoot for 3 feet

ironworks
12-18-2009, 08:09 AM
I kinda think if you have the knowledge to build your own chassis, then designing the chassis table should be a snap.

We build our tables 8 ft wide then than car and 20 ft long. We use big square tubing and don't weld the entire table solid, so it stays flatter.

Good luck

CRCRFT78
12-18-2009, 09:04 AM
How about building a complete bolt-together chasis table? Would there be any problems with leveling and sqauring it up. My only concern would be with bolts becoming loose during the build causing it to become unlevel/unsqaure. Anyone have a bolt-together table?

GregWeld
12-18-2009, 09:12 AM
I kinda think if you have the knowledge to build your own chassis, then designing the chassis table should be a snap.

We build our tables 8 ft wide then than car and 20 ft long. We use big square tubing and don't weld the entire table solid, so it stays flatter.

Good luck

Roger.... How "level" and how "square" do these have to be? Plus / Minus what? 1/32nd? Just asking. I agree with your statement - if you can build a frame - you'd better be capable of building a square flat level table...

One of the things our club has done is to have "tech sessions" - the welding ones are the most interesting to me (I'm the "instructor") as most people have no idea of the warpage they're causing - and how to control it - etc... they can stick two pieces of metal together - but that's about it... It's fun to watch their faces when you check their work.

ironworks
12-18-2009, 10:06 AM
Greg - can it ever be too level or Too square?

I'm looking to build a new able this winter with I beam and have a grind of holes water jet into the plate that are then tapped to size so we can have that plate in our solidworks files to build the JIG fixtures to bolt to the table and hold the chassis parts as we go.

Here is link to some amazing jigs and fixtures.

http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31417&highlight=dump

monza
12-18-2009, 10:51 AM
I kinda think if you have the knowledge to build your own chassis, then designing the chassis table should be a snap.

We build our tables 8 ft wide then than car and 20 ft long. We use big square tubing and don't weld the entire table solid, so it stays flatter.

Good luck

Apologies if this is a dumb question.... if you don't weld it solid do you bolt it altogether?

96z28ss
12-18-2009, 10:59 AM
These tables are pretty cool. Great for fixturing and the tooling they have available for the table is cool.
They claim it supports 4400lbs.

http://www.stronghandtools.com/pdf_ctlg/buildpro_imp.pdf

ironworks
12-18-2009, 11:13 AM
Apologies if this is a dumb question.... if you don't weld it solid do you bolt it altogether?

Just don't weld the table completely around every joint. We do 1" stitch welds in each corner. The more heat you put into it from welding the more it will want to move. if you going to put a 1/2" plate on the top it really does not matter. We like the rack style table so you can work on the car easier and have more room to get things in and out. Imagine trying to get a tire off a car you cannot jack up. Every one has their own preference.

wiedemab
12-18-2009, 01:06 PM
These tables are pretty cool. Great for fixturing and the tooling they have available for the table is cool.
They claim it supports 4400lbs.

http://www.stronghandtools.com/pdf_ctlg/buildpro_imp.pdf

Those table are pretty cool, but pretty pricey!

I've always wanted to buy a Frame Rack. The collision shop that my dad manages has a Kansas Jack setup that I think would be awesome for building a car on. You can pick them up used for pretty cheap at time too. And for me I would have the added bonus of being able to do a little collision repair if I needed or wanted to. The drawback is that they are huge...... Hell, I've got to get a bigger shop first!!!!

deuce_454
12-19-2009, 02:40 AM
The stronghandtools table is an awesome product, and it has the benefit working day one... .. i also really like the ironworks idea of having a grid in the plate to allow fixtures to be made from solid works..

if you take a look an this post it shows how simple it can be made... http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=23997 alittle on the flimpsy side.. but clearly good enough if you know what you are doing... and it has wheels :thumbsup:
you would need to crossbrace it, or atleast add some way of keeping it square... and have some adjustable supports (modified jacks?) so you can set it up super level if you are scratchbuilding a frame.... but it will get you far...

Sandbagger
12-19-2009, 07:04 AM
If I had the room I would get an old Caroliner frame rack . They have wheels , so your mobile . :" up to you to get it level ".Gets the car a good 18 inches off the deck .

deuce_454
12-20-2009, 01:25 AM
If I had the room I would get an old Caroliner frame rack . They have wheels , so your mobile . :" up to you to get it level ".Gets the car a good 18 inches off the deck .

isnt that a collision repair table with rams etc... i wouldnt think they were suited for fabrication...

BRIAN
12-20-2009, 04:26 PM
I agree with the above in finding an old frame machine and just use the table. Usually when the posts go guys want to get rid of them as they are only in the way. Only worth the cost of scrap.

They are super heavy and straight. Easy to convert to a chassis table. Look on EBAY or Craigs list they pop up often. Think about the cost of some I beams and then setting them up level and square without warpring. With the above you can weld your outriggers per application knowing it is flat and square. Even better if you find on with a working post or two.

Sandbagger
12-21-2009, 11:18 AM
The older Caroliner rack are large 6 by something square tubing , Deck can be used to establish a Datum line ...modify as needed .
Lots of em on e-bay .

moparnut
12-21-2009, 10:22 PM
Heres one I built with 3x3 box tubing. It has casters and sits level in all directions as my floor is about perfect. Cost about $300.00.

CRCRFT78
12-22-2009, 06:41 AM
I asked earlier but no answer? Is it possible to have a bolt-together table without issues of being unlevel or not sqaure? Or should all tables be welded at certain points?

cheapta
12-24-2009, 11:26 AM
Here's my bolt-together table. This is my first go-around for this sort of thing and I wanted soemthing that I could take apart and store out of the way when it's not in use. I scored the I beams for nothing (they had been outside forever and were a mess,this is after a ton of flap-wheeling rust and crud off them) and bought the rest of the steel for the legs and stringers. I'm on a non-existant budget so the free beams drove this style of table.
There are leveling bolts in the bottom of each foot and I was able to get the table level w/in .3 degrees in each direction. That's less than 1/2 degree over about 17 feet long and 6 feet wide. I don't think that's too bad.
I haven't had any issues with bolts loosening-the table doesn't move and there's no vibration going through it so bolting it together is not an issue.
I took these pics the day I put the car on the table so it's just sitting on the lumber in these pics. I've since set it at ride height with the wheels and tires I'm using and welded the body right to the table. I also centered the body on the table,string line to string line so all my measurements come from center and not an edge.
I've never done anything like this before but I've been in awe of some of the fabrication work I've seen on this site and others. I don't know if I'm building this chassis "correctly" but I'm having a ball doing it.

Wish me luck with posting these pics-I'm a computer dinosaur.
<a href="http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/hdz28/rear%20discs/New%20Shop/?action=view&current=ChassisJig011.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/hdz28/rear%20discs/New%20Shop/ChassisJig011.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/hdz28/rear%20discs/New%20Shop/?action=view&current=ChassisJig015.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/hdz28/rear%20discs/New%20Shop/ChassisJig015.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

cheapta
12-24-2009, 11:35 AM
I knew I wouldn't be able to drop those pics into the post-sorry guys. Man,this is frustrating.

Jtomas801
12-24-2009, 11:49 AM
Here's my bolt-together table. This is my first go-around for this sort of thing and I wanted soemthing that I could take apart and store out of the way when it's not in use. I scored the I beams for nothing (they had been outside forever and were a mess,this is after a ton of flap-wheeling rust and crud off them) and bought the rest of the steel for the legs and stringers. I'm on a non-existant budget so the free beams drove this style of table.
There are leveling bolts in the bottom of each foot and I was able to get the table level w/in .3 degrees in each direction. That's less than 1/2 degree over about 17 feet long and 6 feet wide. I don't think that's too bad.
I haven't had any issues with bolts loosening-the table doesn't move and there's no vibration going through it so bolting it together is not an issue.
I took these pics the day I put the car on the table so it's just sitting on the lumber in these pics. I've since set it at ride height with the wheels and tires I'm using and welded the body right to the table. I also centered the body on the table,string line to string line so all my measurements come from center and not an edge.
I've never done anything like this before but I've been in awe of some of the fabrication work I've seen on this site and others. I don't know if I'm building this chassis "correctly" but I'm having a ball doing it.

Wish me luck with posting these pics-I'm a computer dinosaur.
<a href="http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/hdz28/rear%20discs/New%20Shop/?action=view&current=ChassisJig011.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/hdz28/rear%20discs/New%20Shop/ChassisJig011.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/hdz28/rear%20discs/New%20Shop/?action=view&current=ChassisJig015.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/hdz28/rear%20discs/New%20Shop/ChassisJig015.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/hdz28/rear%20discs/New%20Shop/ChassisJig011.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/hdz28/rear%20discs/New%20Shop/ChassisJig011.jpg
http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/hdz28/rear%20discs/New%20Shop/ChassisJig015.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/hdz28/rear%20discs/New%20Shop/ChassisJig015.jpg

There you go.

Thanks,
Jon

GregWeld
12-24-2009, 12:25 PM
:rofl: :rofl: ^^^^^ epic fail....

Cheapta -- there is a thread here in the forums with instructions on how to post up pictures. Would love to see your version if you can repost them. You can EDIT your post -- deleting what you put up and then adding them back the correct way so we can see 'em..

Merry Xmas!

GregWeld
12-24-2009, 12:29 PM
I knew I wouldn't be able to drop those pics into the post-sorry guys. Man,this is frustrating.

Hang in there buddy! We've all had to learn things... after awhile - you'll be showing "others" how it's done!

NICE TABLE!! :thumbsup:

I like the bolt together version here - because if I wasn't using it - I could take it apart and store it! Sweet!

CRCRFT78
12-24-2009, 01:33 PM
That's a good looking bolt together table. What size I beams are those? We've got a few laying in the back of our maintenance yard. The Bay Bridge won't miss one or two.

GregWeld
12-24-2009, 03:17 PM
That's a good looking bolt together table. What size I beams are those? We've got a few laying in the back of our maintenance yard. The Bay Bridge won't miss one or two.

From what I read - they fall out of the sky on the Bay Bridge!!

EEEEEEEHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAA

gracin7
12-24-2009, 05:30 PM
Those table are pretty cool, but pretty pricey!

I've always wanted to buy a Frame Rack. The collision shop that my dad manages has a Kansas Jack setup that I think would be awesome for building a car on. You can pick them up used for pretty cheap at time too. And for me I would have the added bonus of being able to do a little collision repair if I needed or wanted to. The drawback is that they are huge...... Hell, I've got to get a bigger shop first!!!!

I used my K J rack to build the jig on,Its a very flat and level surface and Ive done FR and RR racecar clips on it but the access room from underneath sucks,a beam platform is much better,Rich

Garage Dog 65
12-24-2009, 07:14 PM
Here are my plans. Bolt together with 2 outer hoops and 6 legs. Pull the bolts and fold the legs in and the 2 hoops 'nest' into each other so you can hang it from the wall. Leveler casters on all legs were expensive - so you could easily put threaded rods on the lower tube near the legs to lower the cost. I have the plans and materials list if anyone is interested.

Jim

syborg tt
12-24-2009, 07:19 PM
Here are my plans. Bolt together with 2 outer hoops and 6 legs. Pull the bolts and fold the legs in and the 2 hoops 'nest' into each other so you can hang it from the wall. Leveler casters on all legs were expensive - so you could easily put threaded rods on the lower tube near the legs to lower the cost. I have the plans and materials list if anyone is interested.

Jim

Man Jim it's about time you posted these pics

This table is nice - Plus i like the fact that you hang it on the wall when it's not in use.

Garage Dog 65
12-24-2009, 07:23 PM
Thx Marty !

I thought I had posted them somewhere on the forum already - but I searched and I couldn't find it - so hope it helps someone.

Hey - isn't it time for "Santa' to log off and go get the girls presents from the sleigh !!!

:yes:

CRCRFT78
12-24-2009, 08:14 PM
Hey Jim,

I'll take a copy of those plans and materials list.

d110pickup
12-24-2009, 09:52 PM
Jim,
Can you post up the plans and material list? I'm sure many of us would like to have them.
Thanks, & Merry Christmas!
Mike

Garage Dog 65
12-24-2009, 10:05 PM
Sorry, they are too big or wrong file types to post here.

PM me with your e-mail address and I'd be glad to shoot them over your way.

Jim

cheapta
12-26-2009, 11:16 AM
Jon-thanks for the "assist". I used to be able to embed pics but something changed over at Photobucket and I don't have the hang of it yet.
CRCRFT78-the beams are 6"x10". I set the width to match the track width of the car. The stringers are 3"x3"x.125 wall tubing with some angle welded to the ends for bolting to the beams. The legs are the same tubing with 6"x6"x3/8" plate on either end. The bottom end (foot) of each leg has a nut welded to it and a leveling bolt running through it. I also used the tubing to make 5 or 6 movable platforms that are at the same height as the working surface of the table. That way I can position them wherever I need a "false ground level" to work or measure from. Tough to descibe,I'll spend some time with the picture thing again.
Thanks for the interest,guys-

Peter

64pontiac
01-10-2010, 06:55 PM
Heres my frame table. 2x5 main frame on edge. the legs have our adjusters on top for 12 inches of adjustment, whch allow leveling, lowering, or my favorite feature, raise one leg at a time and put casters in the machined inserts. The main goal of this table was to be a multi use table. All the cross bars can slide and be tacked in for different applications, and I have a huge collection of laser cut bracketry for different uses. its 16x7

CRCRFT78
10-25-2010, 03:11 PM
Heres my frame table. 2x5 main frame on edge. the legs have our adjusters on top for 12 inches of adjustment, whch allow leveling, lowering, or my favorite feature, raise one leg at a time and put casters in the machined inserts. The main goal of this table was to be a multi use table. All the cross bars can slide and be tacked in for different applications, and I have a huge collection of laser cut bracketry for different uses. its 16x7

Tyler, do you have any other detailed pics of your frame table?