69 Firebird Electric fans and fuel pump

[av8or32]

Any imput on what type of fans/pump would be awesome. I have a 69 Firebird with a 400 pontiac/Muncie 4 spd/600 E-brock carb/mild cam/headers/e-brock intake etc.:cheers:

[70rs]

What radiator are you running? I have seen many people using OE electric fans from Lincolns, Taurus, and a few others. It depends on how much room you have. Derale has a dual 13 inch unit that pulls 4000cfm, it's a little over 200 bucks at summit.

For the fuel pump you can use any mechanical pump from Edlebrock, Holley or a stock replacement one. Just be sure it puts out the right GPM and pressure. A regulator with a gauge is always a help just to be sure. No need to go electric for the pump with your set up. But if you wanted to there are lot's to choose from. Holley blue pump, Aeromotive, Carter, Summit has a complete fuel system with a pump (electric), filter, regulator and line for about 240 bucks. Part number SUM-PUMPKIT7A. It includes -6 braided line (20 feet) and AN fittings and clamps. That would be more than enough to feed your engine. Some of the external electric pumps are VERY noisy though. I have not used any of the summit brands so I can't tell you how loud this one is.
:cheers:

[GregWeld]

Just be sure to run your fans on relays.... I've seen many people try to run them without and that's serious no no!

I just added a SPAL PWM fan controller to my Nomad... has the first fan come on only half speed and slowly speeds up that fan IF needed - once Fan #1 goes full steam - fan #2 comes on... it also has them BOTH come on when your A/C is on... and has a 'cool down' cycle for 30 seconds after you turn it off... Nice system for nominal additional cost IMHO. Really keeps the noisy fan issue at bay most of the time.


:thumbsup:

[av8or32]

My radiator is 16 tall by 23 wide so I'm limited on size. Why not runa single 16 fan?

[av8or32]

my radiator is a new o.e. replacement

[70rs]

There are tons of options for singls fans for you. Take a look over at Summitracing.com and see what they have. You should be able to get everything you need at a reasonable cost. If you see one you like click on it and it will give you the dimensions, CFM ratings and cost.

But like Greg mentioned above, use relays. Don't just do a direct wire with an "on/off" switch.
:cheers:

[av8or32]

i've got my eye on a 16"x16" s blade that moves around 2000cfm. Will I be good with that and a Painless relay kit. Also, the kits come in two temp ranges. 200 on 185 off and 185 on and 175 off. Which way would you go?

[70rs]

I would think that 2000 cfm would be enough for your combo. But is there any in that size that move more air? If not then you may want to look into a fan shroud of some sort. More air is never a bad thing when it comes to engine bay heat. Anything you can do to get it out of there and keep the engine as cool as possible under normal conditions. Do you have AC in the car? That will put a lot of extra load on things while it is running.
The Painless relay shoud be just fine. Be sure it is rated correctly for the fans requirements.:cheers:

[av8or32]

I plan on adding a vintage air kit soon. looks like the fan is self-shrouded. I havent been able to find a small enough shroud/fan kit yet. My radiator's only 23x16

[70rs]

If the radiator is a stock size replacement you could use a reproduction version. The electric fan may fit inside of it. You should ask the guys at Autorad if that CFM rating of 2000 is enough with an AC system and whatever your horse power level is. I THINK you would be ok. But better safe than sorry with a cooked engine or stuck having to buy upgrade parts down the road.

[GregWeld]

i've got my eye on a 16"x16" s blade that moves around 2000cfm. Will I be good with that and a Painless relay kit. Also, the kits come in two temp ranges. 200 on 185 off and 185 on and 175 off. Which way would you go?

Fuel injection likes heat in a motor - and despite our old fashioned beliefs... HEAT makes power... Also if you're running forged pistons - they like a little heat in 'em too - for "swelling" purposes :lol: I'm running a 195 thermostat in mine...

New Vettes are running the streets at 220...

Remember - it's not the temp you run at - it's the ability of the system to not let the heat get out of control... I don't want my heat to be like a yo yo - I want it steady eddie... a needle that doesn't move (much)... whatever the thermostat is - is where I want the thing to run.

[GregWeld]

Remember too -- you don't need the fans when the car is moving.... you only need them when there's no air moving...

Depending on what your motor is - and I didn't read the thread to find out -- I don't think 2000 cfm is going to be enough... I'd be up at 3000 CFM or very close to it. And yes - the painless relays are good ones.

[Vegas69]

2000 cfm won't cool 600hp. You need over 3000cfm especially with AC. Greg is correct, motors like heat to a point. However, injection and carbs are two different ball games. 180 is perfect with a carb where 210 will make it pissed off.

[av8or32]

my motor's proabably putting out 300 or so at the flywheel.

[GregWeld]

I have an old saying I like to use about cooling and stuff like that...

Better to have it, and not need it... than to need it, and not have it.

Can't have too much cooling - that's what the old thermostat takes care of... It only allows enough water flow to maintain the temp... and electric fans are temp controlled - so if they're not needed - they don't turn on...

Nothing worse than being stuck in traffic - hot day - and that ole temp gauge starts the dreaded creep.