View Full Version : 68 camaro no name yet
jcal87
08-24-2009, 02:44 PM
well I got bored and frustrated so i ripped all the interior out of my car to see what lurked beneath and let me tell you this car is the definition of project its gonna need a new floor pan and trunk pan plus one quarter for sure well see what else as time goes on and money comes in this will be a slow project and if you guys want to help me out with a name that would be cool to i was thinking maybe something like "research"because i didnt :lol:
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g19/fmhsjcal06/camaro/004.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g19/fmhsjcal06/camaro/005.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g19/fmhsjcal06/camaro/006.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g19/fmhsjcal06/camaro/007.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g19/fmhsjcal06/camaro/008.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g19/fmhsjcal06/camaro/009.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g19/fmhsjcal06/camaro/010.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g19/fmhsjcal06/camaro/011.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g19/fmhsjcal06/camaro/012.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g19/fmhsjcal06/camaro/013.jpg
jcal87
08-24-2009, 06:08 PM
Does anyone know the best way to get rid of that cardboard stuff the lines the roof and how to take the back seat out of the car
dhutton
08-24-2009, 06:17 PM
You can use a plastic scraper on the roof insulation. To remove the backseat you have to push back on the bottom on both sides then up and forward. You have to push back hard.
Those floors looks quite solid to me in those pics. Hard to tell for the quarters and trunk floor but I would not rush into cutting into that car. I've seen a lot worse.
Don
jcal87
08-24-2009, 06:23 PM
You can use a plastic scraper on the roof insulation. To remove the backseat you have to push back on the bottom on both sides then up and forward. You have to push back hard.
Those floors looks quite solid to me in those pics. Hard to tell for the quarters and trunk floor but I would not rush into cutting into that car. I've seen a lot worse.
Don
thanx ill try it out.The floors are pretty rough up front losts of rust holes in the passenger and driver sides trunk has rust holes as well
jcal87
08-24-2009, 06:29 PM
alright back seat cushions are out did exactly what you said came right out. but what about the back side panels on the window crank area?
tones2SS
08-25-2009, 07:11 AM
Keep up the great work and keep us posted.:thumbsup:
jcal87
09-22-2009, 04:52 PM
passenger side bottom inside quarter
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g19/fmhsjcal06/camaro/003.jpg
jcal87
09-22-2009, 04:55 PM
this is the driver side inside bottom quarter couldnt get as good of a shot so i took 4
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g19/fmhsjcal06/camaro/010-1.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g19/fmhsjcal06/camaro/009-1.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g19/fmhsjcal06/camaro/006-1.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g19/fmhsjcal06/camaro/005-1.jpg
cheapta
09-22-2009, 06:20 PM
You think that floor needs replacing? You're not from New England are you. That looks real good to me-the whole car. I wouldn't be in too much of a hurry to cut that one up.
jcal87
09-22-2009, 06:41 PM
You think that floor needs replacing? You're not from New England are you. That looks real good to me-the whole car. I wouldn't be in too much of a hurry to cut that one up.
well the trunk has really bad rust holes some the size of quarters but the floor pan has some rust pin holes to if im gonna do it might as well be right the first time:thumbsup:
waynieZ
09-22-2009, 06:52 PM
I agree with cheapta rust that aint no stinkin rust ! when I stripped mine I knelt on the rear floor and went right through it. thats rust. Maybe try sanding or wire brushing to see how bad .
jcal87
09-22-2009, 07:08 PM
I agree with cheapta rust that aint no stinkin rust ! when I stripped mine I knelt on the rear floor and went right through it. thats rust. Maybe try sanding or wire brushing to see how bad .
yeah but the camera doesn't do it justice theres pretty bad rust pin holes on the floor boards on both driver and passenger sides trunks absolutely horrible it has one spot that has a rust hole bigger than a quarter
ItDoRun
09-22-2009, 07:46 PM
It's hard to tell from pictures, but in the second set of pictures inside the quarter there appears to be some rot at the door jamb structure. It's really hard to tell. Get in there with a shop vac and clean it out real good.
The floors look good from the picture, but you're the one looking at it in person. I, for one, wanted a clean undercarriage, so I replaced my entire floor and trunk. My trunk had some ugly rust holes under the spare tire, and the floor was rusted in the same area as yours, but slightly worse (mine was pitted and rusted through. It depends on how far you want to go with it. The floor replacement is not hard, just time consuming. The same goes for the full trunk replacement. As i mentioned to you on the phone, DON'T buy the 68 pan. Buy the 67 since you'll be removing the shock towers anyway when tubbing it.
Looks good. Keep the photos coming! :thumbsup:
jcal87
11-28-2009, 12:26 PM
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g19/fmhsjcal06/camaro/001.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g19/fmhsjcal06/camaro/002.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g19/fmhsjcal06/camaro/003-1.jpg
Is something wrong here?
awr68
11-28-2009, 01:00 PM
remember - surface rust can be dealt with, rust holes can be repaired, but rot is rot and that has to be replaced.
A perfect example is the '69 that Chris Fesler bought from Tyler's client. It really was a solid car...but had some rust so Chris did patches on it...that way he was able to keep all the OE panels (they fit nice!) and the metal work didn't spiral out of control. Once you really tare into a car and start replacing many panels you are talking a lot of metal work...and then comes the huge hours of fitting sheet metal and body work! Todd's car is also a great example of patshing the bad areas and moving on.
I would clean up the metal and see what you really have. Surface rust is very common so don't freak out. Patches can be done and if done correctly are undetectable. On my floor I had a few pin holes that I welded up and one small patch that I had to do on the floor...deffinatly wasn't worth cutting the floor out.
Let us know what you have once you dig a little deeper!! :cheers:
jcal87
11-28-2009, 01:17 PM
well yeah but what about the steel plate behind the y braces was that stock?
awr68
11-28-2009, 01:23 PM
well yeah but what about the steel plate behind the y braces was that stock?
No.....
jcal87
11-28-2009, 04:46 PM
so I have all the tools I need to do this but I'm going to be real honest I'am abosolutly scared out of my mind of replacing sheet metal on this car out of fear im going to get in over my head! especially since i still owe on this darn thing
Derek Miller
11-28-2009, 05:04 PM
How are the quarter panels on the car? Especially around the wheel wells. Have you ever done any sand blasting? Panel replacement really isn't that hard as long as you don't tackle to much at a time and have a lot of patience. The new panels can be held on with screws, clamps, or clecos until you get it to fit perfect before welding. I have worked on a lot of first gens and yours looks to be in great shape, they all have some rust even if people use the phrase "rust free".
jcal87
11-28-2009, 05:12 PM
pretty much everyhting needs to be replaced on the back end except maybe roof skin but since im going to do the quarters might as well do the roof to
Derek Miller
11-28-2009, 05:28 PM
One way that we have done a complete rear end replacement was to do one quarter panel at a time. It keeps the car more stable. If the roof does not need to be replaced then I would leave it. When doing the quarters, make sure to fit the doors and trunk lid before cutting the old quarter panel off, that way you have the door and deck lid to help line up the new panel. I have always done my own sand blasting and once you get the quarter off, you might as well sand blast and paint the supports.
jcal87
11-28-2009, 05:55 PM
One way that we have done a complete rear end replacement was to do one quarter panel at a time. It keeps the car more stable. If the roof does not need to be replaced then I would leave it. When doing the quarters, make sure to fit the doors and trunk lid before cutting the old quarter panel off, that way you have the door and deck lid to help line up the new panel. I have always done my own sand blasting and once you get the quarter off, you might as well sand blast and paint the supports.
My trunk pan has horrible rust so i need to replace it aswell I'm guessing if i have the quarters cut off this part of the job is a lot smoother
awr68
11-28-2009, 06:20 PM
Make sure you do FULL panels....80% quarters or skins don't cut it in the end!!
Make sure you do FULL panels....80% quarters or skins don't cut it in the end!!
X2^^^^ I got some 80% quarters with my car and now they are for sale. I will use full panels when the time comes.:cheers:
jcal87
11-28-2009, 06:36 PM
dropping the fuel tank tommorow and cutting the trunk out anything special i need to know?
ItDoRun
11-28-2009, 07:29 PM
The Y-braces are okay. I see now the panel you are talking about. if you're doing the full trunk pan, then the plate needs to be removed.
jcal87
04-14-2010, 10:29 PM
Now that I'm back to being a broke college student project is at a stand still for now. I did find out where the water is getting in though, apparently i have bad seals in my windshield by the a pillars so who knows what kind of condition the metal is in under the trim. the rear window has the same problem. I guess the cosmetic stuff will come last so for now I'm saving all for performance. Next purchase AME sub frame it's really the only thing that cant snow ball me. When that will be who knows lol
Ron in SoCal
04-15-2010, 12:08 PM
Now that I'm back to being a broke college student project is at a stand still for now. I did find out where the water is getting in though, apparently i have bad seals in my windshield by the a pillars so who knows what kind of condition the metal is in under the trim. the rear window has the same problem. I guess the cosmetic stuff will come last so for now I'm saving all for performance. Next purchase AME sub frame it's really the only thing that cant snow ball me. When that will be who knows lol
Interesting post. If I were you, I'd stay on the sheetmetal before spending precious project $$$ on high end suspension. Just my .02...
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