wedged- 41 Dodge truck project

[wedged]

This started out as a dakota project and now is using a 1941 Dodge truck body.


Since I am starting back in on this long term project, I decided to create an update thread.

A few years back I bought a '94 V-6 5 speed Dakota for a big block swap. At the time I was thinking "sleeper". I also had long term plans of putting EFI on the 440 I was installing and then add a pair of turbos.

Here's the truck as it looked when I bought it
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/stockdak02.JPG

The first thing I did was to lower it. I used 3" blocks in the rear, then decided to cut and weld instead. I stuck with the cheap 'n dirty method.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/dump11.jpg

Rear bracket
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/dump13.jpg

[wedged]

Dropped the front with 2" Bell Tech spindles

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/spindles07.jpg

I had to add a 1" lowering block in the rear to get it just right. The weight of the 440 had dropped the front a little more than I thought and there was too much rake.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/sideshot.jpg

[wedged]

I picked up a 440 which was going to get a clean up, regasketed,painted and dropped in. In the middle of doing that, I changed my mind. It got hot tanked, a quick hone, all new bearings and rings, a set of Edelbrock heads, new oil pump and billet timing set and a small Lunati cam. I kept the stock low compression pistons to keep the short block cheap and this will allow for testing the planned turbos.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/engine010.jpg

A 727 was completely rebuilt with a B&M kit, B&M deep pan and a TCI converter. This will get swapped out for a 518 OD trans with a JW adapter belhousing at some point.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/trans01.jpg

[wedged]

Notched the stock bog block truck oil pan and extended the pick up. I'll need to re-do the pan to add fittings for turbo drains and increase the capacity. I may modify the cross member too.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/pan03.jpg

before the swap
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/enginein.jpg


CAD designed laser cut adapter brackets
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/rawmnt02.jpg

mock up of the first tran cross member. You can also see the stock speed sensor in the trans. I had to make a 7 v signal source so the speedo would work.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/rawmnt04.jpg

passenger side mount in place
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/newmnt012.jpg

driver's side
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/newmnt013.jpg

[wedged]

test fitting with an empty block and empty trans case
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/test1.jpg

building the headers
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/pipes01.jpg

here you can also see the custom intake a buddy made for me using a tunnel ram base. I was copying Nelson's design to go along with the twin turbo idea.I'll need all new headers when it comes time to add the turbos
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/pipes02.jpg

it wasn't easy
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/pipes22.jpg

but it was fun
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/pipes27.jpg

VHT ceramic paint which didn't hold up too well. Not equal length, not pretty, but they work. I learned a lot from doing this and I look forward to doing it again some time.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/headers01.jpg

Like I said, crude but effective.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/headers02.jpg

[wedged]

Yay ! They fit !
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/headers03.jpg

I originally tried to use the stock tran cross member which ended up perfectly in the way of the exhaust. I used a cable shifter at first, then switched to a Lokar linkage shifter. No more worries about melted cables.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/headers04.jpg

This is what it looks like now.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/images/newrad.jpg


The next thing is to is getting it running again- I had a fuel pump failure and you can read about that in the EFI section. I also need to find a vacuum leak and work on the IAC to be sure it's working right. I've finally got the hoses ready for the AC system so I can finish hooking that up and recharging it. From there I am going to start working on the back half. I have a set of Mickey Thompson 29"x18"x18" Sportsman SR's for the back.
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/images/products/sportsman_sr_rear.jpg

When the tires go on, a new fuel tank will go into the bed. I'd like to put C4 front suspension under it with bigger brakes and maybe a hydroboost.

[wedged]

Yes, everything looks a bit rough, but i made up my mind that I want to be able to drive the truck as I work on it. When time and money allow, I would like to tear it all down and make it look pretty- new paint, new upholstery etc. With 18" wheels for the rear being pricey, I started poking around for steel wheels. Ford Explorers were equiped with 18"x7.5" steel wheel with a 5x4.5" bolt pattern. I am going to get a pair and see if they will work on the front and if they work, get 2 more. Then I am going to widen a pair for the back. I'm going to do this the old school circle track way. Cut, measure, tack and weld. I'll start taking more pics as I move along.

[67rstbkt]

Cool project, that should make one hell of a sleeper:_paranoid

[silver63c10]

Very cool build, I've always liked that body style a lot. The headers came out great for a first attempt, that's something I want to try eventually. I bet that is an interesting ride with that much motor in it, to say the least. Good luck with it!

[wedged]

The engine is actually kind of lame thanks to the 8:1 compression, but it still is fun to drive. Well, to me it feels lame because that blue plymouth scamp in the background of the rear spring mount picture runs low 11's on slicks and on the hard street tires it will roast 'em from a 45 mph roll.

Once the Mickey T's go on, the sleeper image will be gone, but right now it just blends in with traffic.

[Xplosiv]

Kind of reminds me of my buddys ranger in high school. He had an 87 ranger with a 429 cobra jet in it. Stupid fast, and by stupid i mean way to much power to be safe in such a little truck.

[wedged]

I was succesful in getting the fuel pump working again. I'll add a few pics of the pump repair when I get a chance. I also picked up a used Holset HX35W for when the time comes to start mock up for the twin turbos. It looks like I have plenty of room for them, I just have move some things around.

[wedged]

Here's the fuel pump disassembled. The first time I took it apart, I desoldered the wires at the bulkhead screws. When reassembling this time, I realized I should have done that again this time as it makes putting the pump back together easier.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/fp003.jpg

The little parts. It's simple to take this pump apart. Aeromotive doesn't offer any service parts in their catalog. I don't know if they would sell them seperately. I bought the replacement brushes based on dimension from Eurton Electric Company, 800-423-4789. I was able to look up the size of the brush in their pdf catalog online at www.eurtonelectric.com. The part # is 33D. The brushes cost $3.25 each and I got 4 so I would have spares in case I screwed up. The brushes are about .100" too long as supplied. I shortened them with a sanding drum un my Dremel tool. I should have done that before I soldered them to the board, but I forgot to check them first.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/fp004.jpg

The inside of the motor case with the magnets re-epoxied. I didn't take any "before" pics.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/fp007.jpg

The brush holder after soldering the new brushes in place. I was also able to get them partially crimped into the connector, but not well enough to eliminate the need for solder. Again, I should have checked and trimmed the brushes to length before soldering them as well as de-soldering the wires to the bulkhead screws in the pump end cap.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/fp010.jpg

A shot of the motor before installing the brush holder assembly
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/fp013.jpg

I installed the pump yesterday and wedged fired right up after priming.


JB Weld $6.99
http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/jb-weld.jpg

2 sets of brushes plus shipping $20
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/fp004.jpg

repairing a $300+ paperweight yourself:
priceless !

:woot:



Now we'll just have to see how long the JB weld will hold up to soaking in alcohol enhanced gasoline. The stock glue holding the magnets in place lasted less than 500 miles. I bought the pump 05/06. It was installed toward the end of 09/06. It first partially failed during the summer of 2008 , then started working again, then failed totally early spring 09.

[GregWeld]

Wow --- such little parts! I hate little parts!!

Good job!

[wedged]

The rear tires waiting patiently
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/mickyt.jpg

the used turbo that might someday get installed
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/turbo001.jpg

it needs some work. The shaft has a lot of play and the compressor wheel has hit the housing, contrary to the description in the ebay auction.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/turbo002.jpg

close up of the damage
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/turbo003.jpg

a bigger picture- it's really too big and messes up the layout of the post, so just click.
CLICK (http://www.bigblockdakota.com/turbo004.jpg)

the housing just got polished a little from the contact, but doesn't appear to have any real damage.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/turbo006.jpg

[BritishGreen68]

dude this is a cool project! You should do yourself a favor and just get a new turbo. Having a bad turbo like that rebuilt costs some money and its an absolute pain when they go out. I have seen quite a few rebuilt ones go bad because they will start to leak oil and its difficult to get a high miler rebuilt properly. I guess you could get it mounted and running with it and get a new one later but its totally worth it to start new with a warranty and get the exact size you need...just my .02..

[wedged]

I am going to rebuild the turbo myself. The kits are cheap and I've already found a source for a new compressor wheel at a fair price. $ became a big issue over the last year, so it's now low budget all the way. If $ wasn't an issue, I'd have an aluminum block and a pair of Turbonetics Thumpers.

[wedged]

After a bit of back and forth, I was able to get specialty car insurance on wedged ! :thumbsup: I'm limited to 3,000 miles a year, which is plenty for me. I was a bit unmotivated since I couldn't drive the thing. I've got a vacuum leak between the upper plenum and lower runners of the intake. I'm going to make a gasket and try it. If that doesn't hold up, I'll weld the upper to the lower. Once that's situated, I'll finish up the A/C system.

[waynieZ]

Its enough of a chalange getting these back together never mind dealing with ins.co.

[wedged]

The insurance company wasn't too bad. They said "no" , I said "why", they said "um... fill out this modified vehicle work sheet and we'll get back to you". A few days later I've got insurance cards. I've been dealing with this company for quite few years now. Heacock Insurance : Heacock Classic (http://www.heacockclassic.com/) . Heck, they even insured a buddy's 9 second pro street blown hemi Duster.

[wedged]

I finally found some time to work on the truck again. I re-wired the SPAL cooling fans with SPAL relay kits. I had previously used some relays I had on hand and some bulk wire and just wasn't thrilled with how it turned out. I also neatened up the wire a bit by installing some black convoluted tubing. Now all of the FAST XFI wiring blends in a bit better.

The A/C hoses are installed. I have a little more wiring to do and then a recharge.

I have had a vacuum leak between the sheet metal upper 1/2 and the cast aluminum lower half of the intake. All along I had doubts about how well it would seal with just 4 small bolts widely spaced holding the 2 pieces together. Intially it was decided to bolt them together in case mods were needed inside the plenum. I decided to pull the intake and weld the 1/2's together. I figure if it needs to come back apart, I have carbide die grinder bits and a welder.

The big question was if i would be able to do this. I have very little TIG experience and no training. This was the first time welding a combo of plate and cast aluminum. I think I did OK- not to pretty, but funtional. It actually came out better than I anticipated. I figured if it was really bad looking it would not be visible anyway.

No more vacuum leak !
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/runner_weld.jpg

[GregWeld]

There ya go!

Now if you want to make it pretty - just 'blend' it a bit with some paper rolls on that die grinder...

I always do as much stuff as possible on my cars/projects... that's how you learn and build your skills! SO way to go.

BTW -- I finally ditched all those relays for the fans - and went with a SPAL fan controller. It operates TWO fans - and is pulse width modulated - so runs fan #1 at half speed and brings it's speed up as required to keep the heat contained - when #1 gets to full speed and needs some help - fan #2 comes on... It has an A/C input - so a few seconds after the A/C is switched on BOTH fans come on - and they stay on until 30 seconds after the A/C is switched off.

It's small - waterproof (resistant in legalese) and is programable for your low and high temp control. It's also much "neater" without all the relays.

[wedged]

it seems that my fuel pump repair may have failed. Lucky for me it happened in the shop rather than on the road. I made a few laps up and down my road , working on the low speed XFI tune. Pulled back into the shop to make some changes and then while adjusting the tables at idle, the truck sputtered and stalled. Oh well... i tried... Now I need to pick a new pump.

[Tig]

subscribed:thumbsup:

Looks great, everything is coming along. Welds dont look too shabby either.
I'd like to stick a BB in my truck one day.

[wedged]

a Mallory 60 gph EFI pump is on it's way to me. pics when it gets installed... :thumbsup:

[wedged]

The new Mallory fuel pump has been working just fine for the limited amount of driving i have done.

I have an old aluminum marine fuel tank that I got when I bought a different parts truck a while back. I decided to cut it down to fit in the bed. I'll be adding baffles and the fittings I need to the EFI system. It will end up right about at 18 gallons capacity, which is more than the stock tank. It's sitting on my welding table which was a freebie from a fab shop that went out of business a few years ago.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tank001.jpg


http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tank002.jpg

Since I can't afford $1K+ each for aluminum wheels to fit the M/T 29x18x18 tires fro the rear, I'm making my own 18x15 wheels. I am starting out with these steel 18x7.5 wheels with a 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern from an '06 or newer Ford Explorer. I got one to start with and if it works out, I'll get 3 more, one more to widen and 2 for the front. The wheel was $71.95 plus shipping from www.iautobodyparts.com part #STL03654U45 in case anyone with a Ford or Mopar is interested.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/wheels001.jpg

The offset should be OK as is for the front of the Dakota since in stock form, they use a FWD type offset.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/wheels002.jpg

For the rear, I am going to widen the wheel to be 12"-15" wide. Not sure yet exactly how wide. It looks like it might be smart to reverse the center & widen the wheel. I want to be sure to have plenty of dish.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/wheels003.jpg

Feel free to input with ideas !

[GregWeld]

How do you plan to cut and weld on the gas tank? I have one I'd like to modify - but am not sure I know how to do it after it's been "used"...
:_paranoid

[rwhite692]

Unless you are really dead-set on widening those yourself, you might check out Stockton Wheel...They do this kind of thing for a living and the price to have it done just might surprise you.

Widening a wheel and having it come out true is not an especially easy thing to do without having the right fixtures, etc...

Good luck!

[wedged]

Of course I'm doing it myself. One reason is no one I asked, including stockton , would/could widen a steel 18" wheel. At the PRI show I spoke with one of the Basset wheel reps and he said "go for it". It's not as difficult as people think. I'll show all of the step by step as I do it.

Cutting the tank ? Already done as seen in the pictures. I used an air saw & an electric saber saw. Welding a used gas tank ? Aluminum, steel , stainless, doesn't matter too much. What matters is it needs to be clean. I worked helping to run a welding and fab shop for a while in my early 20's - i helped in the office mostly, i didn't do any fab or welding. We used to build and fix fuel tanks all the time, mostly for boats. Welding up pin holes, patching, you name it. A steam cleaner and soapy water works well to clean before hand. When doing my own, I drain the tank, remove the sender & anything that can trap fuel then let it air dry completly. Pour in about a cup of dishsoap & put the garden hose in & let it run slow until the water comes out with no suds. Repeat. Let it air dry again, and if it smells clean & you are comfortable, do what you need to do. Of course you need to use your own judgment and take responsibility for your own actions. Purging the tank with argon is a good safety measure too.

[GregWeld]

Yeah -- that's what I've been told to do -- wash it throughly and back gas it with argon. It's a stainless tank and I'd TIG it - so a back gas with Argon works... just thought maybe you had a different way.

[wedged]

I spoke with the metal shop that does water jet cutting for me. They can roll steel plate the width I need to make the rings to widen the wheels. I just need to determine exact width and diameter I want. I need to decide if i want to widen it in the drop center or the larger diameter

[wedged]

I managed to knock the center out of the wheel. It took a bit more effort than I had anticipated. First I cut the four 4" long welds with a cut off wheel. Then i heated the joint and started smacking near the joint with a piece of 1/2" round bar and a BFH. It took a while but the weld seams finally split and the center popped out. I wanted to make sure not to over grind and cut into the rim. Next week I'll swing by the metal shop and have them make up two 16.5" ID rings about 8" wide.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/wheels005.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/wheels006.jpg

The rims will end up right about 15" wide , which is what M/T specs for the tires. The aluminum wheels M/T offers have 5" of backspace, so I am going get as close to that as I can. Ironically, the center will end up almost exactly where it was in stock configuration. It needed to come out because where I am adding to the width starts right under the edge of the front surface of the center. :unibrow:

[wedged]

The steel rings for widening the wheels have been ordered - 16.5" ID x 8" wide.

Here's a video i took with my phone.
engine video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXcIkEIEyOg)

[wedged]

Not much more progress on on wedged but I figured I post a couple of pics anyway.

The D100 (dubbed "the anti-christ" by it's owner) has a 451 low deck stroker which I need to pull out. It seems the thrust bearing is wiped out allowing the crank to move around. Hopefully it won't be too involved to repair. The owner gave it that name a few years ago after a seemingly endless string of problems... which are obviously continuing. I think the short block might be cursed ?

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/junk-001.jpg

There's a build thread of the satellite that's probably lost at this point due to lack of updates. Quick rundown: 6.1L hemi, a518 OD trans, 8 3/4 rear, 13" Baer brakes on all 4 corners.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/junk-002.jpg

[wedged]

Picked up the steel rings yesterday. Now I just need to cut the wheel in 1/2.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/junk-005.jpg

[wedged]

I'm highjacking my own thread....I've been side tracked with the D100. Pulled the stroker 451 and found the crank to be junk and the block damaged. Crank thrust bearing surface wiped out, 1 spun rod bearing and 1 badly scored piston and bore. I'll be dropping in a 383 that the owner had laying around. Before I do, I have fix the "reinforcements" that someone else did on the C4 front suspension. The upper control arm mounts were tipping in at the top because the welds on the coil over brackets, which doubled as a reinforcement, had broken. In order to stop it, the owner had an off road truck shop add some bracing and some huge booger welds. Let's just just say the engine was in the way when they did it, and leave it at that...

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/anti009.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/anti014.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/anti008.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/anti020.jpg

[wedged]

Made more progress today on the anti-christ. I resorted to the torch to cut off the braces then spent some time with the grinder.


http://www.bigblockdakota.com/anti-021.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/anti-022.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/anti-023.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/anti-024.jpg

The driver's side had tipped in about 1/2" at the top. I used a reciprocating saw to cut through most of the weld along the base. I was just going to realign it and re-weld it. The huge booger welds on the shock upright were taking too long to grind out with a die grinder so I just cut the whole thing off. I then cut the welds off using the band saw.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/anti-025.jpg

lined it back up where it had been...
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/anti-026.jpg

...and welded it back on.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/anti-027.jpg

The next step is to reinforce them.

[GregWeld]

Much better!

I have some welding on my 37 chassis (the old one not the new one!) that makes the booger welds you cut out look like a pro did them... :rofl:

[tgvettes]

Hey Greg
After hearing the story of the old 37 chassi I think you should write a book called How to not build a street rod chassi. :unibrow: :unibrow:

[GregWeld]

That's right Tonny -- I showed you the photos didn't I!! Ever seen such an amazing mess?!

:rofl: :rofl:

Wedges truck was actually "welded" -- whereas I don't think I could say the same thing.

[tgvettes]

You showed me some small pics on your phone.

You should post some

Tonny

[wedged]

The upper control arm mounts on the D100 are done. This should hold up a lot better now. After talking with the owner today, I will be making some engine mounts so we can do away with the motor plate. The PS pump, alternator and AC compressor were hung from the plate so I'll have to make some new brackets for them.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/anti028.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/anti029.jpg

[GregWeld]

That's not nearly enough weld bead on there..... :rofl:

[wedged]

This is just mock up. Nothing is welded together yet.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/sliced-002.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/sliced-003.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/sliced-004.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/sliced-005.jpg

[wedged]

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/wheels008.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/wheels007.jpg

[waynieZ]

Those are some really big boys now!

[wedged]

over the last few months there has been some MAJOR changes in the Dakota project, some of which should make it a little more pro-touring oriented by potentially increasing the handling ability. Please keep in mind that this is being done with a tight budget and it's not being done to look like a show piece.

Behold :
Back when I was about 14, I had 1946 Dodge truck that never was on the road. This is a 1941, which is nearly identical. I was thinking of starting from scratch with it, then figured out a better idea. In this picture the wheels are just standing in the wells, there is no suspension or engine in the truck.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/mockup002.jpg

stripped Dakota frame
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/bareframe-001.jpg

1941 Dodge truck cab on the frame
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/onframe.jpg

engine shot before setback
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/firewall.jpg

[wedged]

Had to cut out most of the floor and build a new one. It's not finished yet, because I have not finished with mounting the engine & trans.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/41floor.jpg

Originally I set the engine back about 14", but I am going to move it back forward about 4"-5" inches to gain back some room in the cab. The engine set back should help with handling.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/dash01.jpg

Here's how it looks right now. The cab mounts have not been built yet, but the cab is tack welded in place so it can't get bumped out of place. The rear half of the frame will get cut off. I am planing on using 2"x3" or 2"x4" box tube for the back half. Due to the current budget, It will be leaf springs in the back for now.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/skates01.jpg

[wedged]

The original long term plan called for twin turbos, mounted in the engine compartment. Partially because it would look good and partially because packaging of the cold piping from remote turbos would have been difficult on the Dakota. While working on the '41, I came to realize that the running boards and the space between the cab and frame would allow for the cold pipes to run up to the front without too much trouble. The engine compartment on the '41 would make it difficult to mount the turbos, unless they hung over the fenders or stacked above the intake, and I don't want to do that. I'm fairly certain I'm going to have lots of room for mounting the turbos just behind the cab, to the outside of the 24" wide rear frame section.


I'm thinking the truck doesn't really fit into any single category- rat rod, pro street, street rod, hot rod, pro touring, etc. So how is this pro-touring ? Here's my answer: big block with modern EFi)
A/C
P/S
engine setback improving weight distribution
big sticky tires on all 4 corners
big 4 wheel disc brakes (Mustang Cobra)
over drive auto trans (518 auto)

From the begining, I wanted to build something that would be very unique, would be fun to drive, could be driven a long distance if needed. Putting the '41 body onto the Dakota chassis takes it from being an interesting Dakota that many people might overlook to something that people can't help but notice.

One thing I forgot to mention- aside from patching holes & potential leaks in the body, the body and paint work is done. :lol:

[GregWeld]

I like it!

I think you're going to have started a whole new genre of build with this project... instead of "rat rod"... I now dub thee:

THE RAT HANDLER


:hail: :thumbsup:

[wedged]

made a little more progress.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/stuffed06.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/stuffed05.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/stuffed01.jpg

[waynieZ]

That looks sweet.

[tones2SS]

That is going to look NASTY! Very nice.:thumbsup:

[wedged]

Just ordered my axles and housing ends. Lets hope I got all of the measurements right ! Once I have that stuff and tack the ends to the housing I can mock up the rear suspension.

[ArisESQ]

that looks badass! i hope you leave the "paint" as is

[tones2SS]

Very cool.:thumbsup:

[wedged]

The paint is going to stay as close to "as is" as possible. There are some spots on the cab at the windshield opening and rear window opening that have some holes I need to fix to make it water tight. The roof seam above the windshield also has some pin hole. The rear lower cab corners will get patched too. I did an experiment to attemp to make rust via a chemical reaction with common household ingredients and it worked well on some steel filings. I have to test it on sheet metal to see what it does. If that doesn't work ok, I'll just prime the patch areas and leave it.

[tones2SS]

Very cool. That is going to look very awesome.:yes: :thumbsup:

[wedged]

The shipment from Moser arrived today. Here's the axles, bearings, retainer plates, housing ends & T bolts. The Gleason Torsen diff was an ebay score. It's new but has some light surface rust.
http://bigblockdakota.com/moser001.jpg

Test fit of the ford mustang cobra brake rotor.

http://bigblockdakota.com/moser002.jpg

Donor Dana 60 full floater with ends torched off.

http://bigblockdakota.com/moser004.jpg

burnt ends

http://bigblockdakota.com/moser005.jpg

old rusty 4.10 peg leg guts

http://bigblockdakota.com/moser006.jpg

I was able to put most of the firewall back in place.

http://bigblockdakota.com/moser007.jpg


http://bigblockdakota.com/moser008.jpg

http://bigblockdakota.com/moser010.jpg

[tones2SS]

Making some progress. Very good. Keep us posted.:thumbsup:

[R.A.D]

looking good. just found your thread. i'm building a 58 dodge pick up to a dakota chassis. maybe i should post the build on this forum also. i'll be following your build
:cheers:

[deuce_454]

I love the switch to the 41 body.. my vote would be to mount the turbos above the valvecovers though.. that way they will be slightly visible thru the louvers and it can look prety nice if packaged nicely

here is a pic of a friend of mines 34 ford, TT ls7 with the water to air IC mounted between the turbos.. i kind of like the package..
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s295/deuce_454/Billede015.jpg

You can see the elbow from the forward discharge if the IC to the TB if you look closely

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s295/deuce_454/Billede016.jpg

The ballance pipe between the two sides was apparantly nessecary to keep the pulsing down but IMHO its more of an academic exercise

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s295/deuce_454/Billede014.jpg

The oildrain is just into the valvecovers.. works great and he has almost 10.000 miles on it.. and it runs low 9,s on pump gas.. but if a twin turbo ls7 in a 2600 pound car didnt run 9.s what would?

The only thing wrong with the setup is the Wastegate dump.. its LOUD when the boost comes on.. and he is changing that this winter

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s295/deuce_454/Billede017.jpg

[wedged]

funny you should mention that... Just yesterday I was thinking that it may be possible to do that. I held the one turbo I have in place and it looks like it might fit and still clear the sides and top of the hood. If I do mount them up front, it will save me a few bucks since I won't need a scavange pump and any IC piping would be shorter I should have room in front of the radiator for an IC or 2. I'll also need make sure that I fab things so I can quickly remove the turbos for maintanace or repairs with out hassles. The draw back would be the extra weight toward the front end instead of further back.

[deuce_454]

true about the weight... but much less complicated, and cheaper.. and if you mount the turbos with v bands and -an hoses it wont take long to remove them and the headers with the hood sides removed... and they will be visible in the enginecompartment :-)

[R.A.D]

any updates? hows the build going?

[wedged]

no updates. I'm working on 2 other vehicles and it's a one man show. :cheers:

[R.A.D]

i feel your pain. i know all about the one man show

[wedged]

more progress- I cut the bottom off of the U shape front fender support after I made some mounts and welded them on.

Here's a side shot. You can see the engine is placed so that it's mostly behind the axle center line.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941dodge-010.jpg

Here's the mount made from some pipe and urethane bushings. It's out of focus because I took the pic by holding the camera up inside the fender and it's a bit too close.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941dodge-009.jpg

Different angle

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941dodge-004.jpg

One of the front cab mounts.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941dodge-008.jpg

from the front

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941dodge-005.jpg

looking out toward the rear cab mount

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941dodge-007.jpg

upward shot of the rear cab mount. I'm not finished welding the mounts. I'll do that once I make the back 1/2 of the frame and pull everything back off of the frame.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941dodge-006.jpg

I've got a good amount of clearance in front of the engine.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941dodge-003.jpg

[R.A.D]

nice progress can't wait to see more

[wedged]

Installing the main caps and bushings.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/dana60-002.jpg

alignment bar in place

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/dana60-003.jpg

installing the pinion centerline tool

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/dana60-004.jpg

setting up the axle housing end.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/dana60-005.jpg

passenger's side is tacked in place and now grinding the driver's side

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/dana60-010.jpg

welding between the tack welds

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/dana60-013.jpg

fully welded end

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/dana60-014.jpg

[wedged]

butchered first generation dakota rotors. yes, they were cut on a lathe.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941dodge022.jpg

poser shots

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941dodge014.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941dodge015.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941dodge016.jpg

[tones2SS]

Very nice. That is going to be a mean looking truck.

[wedged]

The truck already has a set of 2" drop spindles on it. I'm using the stock ones to build the front brake kit. It's mustang cobra based with 13" rotors in the front. If you go back through the thread, you can see the 11" rear rotors.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941dodge021.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941dodge020.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941dodge018.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941dodge017.jpg

[wedged]

over the last couple of days I ordered the parts for the triangulated four link rear suspension.

I've got 4 of these coming for the axle end of the links:

http://www.trail-gear.com/images/2008-1576-225.jpg

There's a set of these on their way:

http://www.swracecars.com/store/images/cart/40-223.JPG

And also some DOM tube to make the bars and bushing sleeves for the frame end of the bars.

[wedged]

the pile of goodies. Laser cut tabs & brackets from Ballistic Fabrication, Creeper joints from Foothills Offroad and coil overs from S&W Racecars.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/suspension001.jpg

This bracket kit is pretty cool It is keyed to position the brackets on the bottom plate. I'll have to modify it because it maxes out at 40 degrees and I want at least 60 degrees between the bars.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/suspension002.jpg

This is about where the upper will sit.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/suspension003.jpg


After measuring the brackets, I altered my CAD drawing. It looks like I'll have an instant center at about 99.5" forward of the rear wheels. The wheel base is 116".

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/suspension006.jpg

[tones2SS]

Very cool. Keep us posted.:thumbsup:

[R.A.D]

way to keep the blood flowing....

[wedged]

finally I was happy with CAD drawings of the frame, so I started cutting and welding.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/rearframe001.jpg

I drew the full scale layout on the surface of the welding table and tacked the frame. Then flipped it over to tack some more.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/rearframe002.jpg

Here's both arches side by side after tacking

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/rearframe003.jpg

I added the forward extensions. I'm leaving the rear portion for later, after the frame is welded together.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/rearframe004.jpg

It's way off in the next to pictures, but I had to drop it in place to see what it would look like.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/rearframe005.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/rearframe006.jpg

I did not make any cross members yet. I'm not sure where I want them.

[waynieZ]

It looks good.

[tones2SS]

Great build Wedged. Keep us posted.

[R.A.D]

yes its looking great. looking forward to the updates

[wedged]

The bushing kits for the frame end of the the four link bars arrived. I got them from Suicide Doors (http://www.suicidedoors.com/) which is now Quality Air Ride. The outter sleeves are very nicely made, they appear to have been cut on a lathe.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/linkbushing001.jpg

[wedged]

made a bit of progress on the rear suspension. The angle of seperation between the upper link will be 45 degrees. I can't get more than that unless I make the upper links really short. I need to make some sort of bridge for the upper links on the housing. The lower links are about 23" c-c.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link001.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link002.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link003.jpg

[wedged]

Here's the four link with most of the bracketry tacked in place. after i took these pics, I pulled it all apart. I've got a whole lot of welding to do now .

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link011.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link010.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link009.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link008.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link007.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link006.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link005.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link004.jpg

[waynieZ]

It looks good, coming togther nice.

[GregWeld]

Sorry - but I think your angles are far too steep going to the center like that with the top bars.

[wedged]

the wide angle pictures make the angle of the upper link look steeper than it is. Link angles and lengths were determined by my CAD drawings. I also checked anti squat based on estimations of CG and it should be close to 100%, if not more. The lower bars are parallel to the ground and the included angle at the upper rear link is 70 degrees.

[Tincup]

I just went through your thread, and I love the build. If you want to match your "Patina" go to a craft store like Michaels, the sell a paint that has a high iron content, and a chemicle that will turn it to rust.

[wedged]

I've already figured out a way to very quickly create rust with a few common household items. it works well with metal filings (almost too well, it created an exothermic reaction:_paranoid ), but i have not tried it on any sheet metal yet. There are a few places on the cab that i need to patch to prevent water leaks and I might try treating those areas after I patch them. There a whole lot of those paints available in all sorts of colors and that would be an option if i'm not happy with my results.

[wedged]

I welded the front half of the frame to the back half and mocked up the bed & cab again. I need to gusset where the frames connect to get rid of the flex that it has now.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link012.jpg

This shot shows the angle of the upper links better

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/tri-link013.jpg

[R.A.D]

i like it......................

[tones2SS]

Wow, that looks mean. Very nice.:thumbsup:

[wedged]

I mocked up the bed again but this time not on jackstands. I tack welded the rear portion in place and the front is resting on the frame. I might roll it outside to take a few pics. The driver's side running board is just clamped in place.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941_dodge_truck-001.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941_dodge_truck-002.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/1941_dodge_truck-003.jpg

[tones2SS]

I'm digging it wedged. That is going to be a great looking truck.

[wedged]

I rolled it outside for a few pics.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/dodge_1941_truck_001.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/dodge_1941_truck_003.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/dodge_1941_truck_004.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/dodge_1941_truck_005.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/dodge_1941_truck_006.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/dodge_1941_truck_007.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/dodge_1941_truck_011.jpg

[waynieZ]

It looks good with those big meats under there. I like it!

[R.A.D]

very nice:thumbsup:

[tones2SS]

It looks good with those big meats under there. I like it!

I agree with Wayne. Very nice.

[56pickup]

looking really great! like the style!

[scottysimp7]

I hope you leave the body as is. I like the rat rod look. You just need a pack of smokes rolled up in your sleeves and some pomade for the dew! Nice!

[wedged]

I hope you leave the body as is. I like the rat rod look.

the body will stay as is except for some patches to make th e cab water tight.



You just need a pack of smokes rolled up in your sleeves and some pomade for the dew! Nice!

That will never happen. cigarettes are disgusting and I'm not some costume wearing poser. :lol:

[elitecustombody]

I like:thumbsup:

[KlasSic68]

Looks sweet! I like it :thumbsup:

[PonchoJohn]

I lost track of this build for a while... looking sweet!:thumbsup:

[PonchoJohn]

Q: for ya- what size are the holes that are drilled in the 18" steel rims? I 'think' they may match up to my Dodge 20" steelies for a rubber rake while allowing a little bit of tire to be mounted. <fingers crossed>

[wedged]

the holes in the rims are 1.30" .

[PonchoJohn]

Thanks!

[Dr G]

I agree that keeping the patina will be tres cool. You can't recreate that.

Gustave

[wedged]

Boxed the small section of dakota frame that was not boxed. This made the entire frame a whole lot more rigid. I'll probably add some gussets to the corners where the rear half meets the cross member once I put the loop and the exhaust ports into the cross member. The piece of green box tube is just temporary. the trans tailshaft is resting on it and it also kept the rails the correct distance apart.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/boxframe001.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/boxframe003.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/boxframe005.jpg

[ArisESQ]

are those front wheels the ones you'll be using? personally i think a larger diameter wheel would look better and match the rear nicely. style is on point though.

[wedged]

are those front wheels the ones you'll be using? personally i think a larger diameter wheel would look better and match the rear nicely. style is on point though.

The front wheels will match the rears, but 7.5" wide.


Since I can't afford $1K+ each for aluminum wheels to fit the M/T 29x18x18 tires fro the rear, I'm making my own 18x15 wheels. I am starting out with these steel 18x7.5 wheels with a 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern from an '06 or newer Ford Explorer. I got one to start with and if it works out, I'll get 3 more, one more to widen and 2 for the front. The wheel was $71.95 plus shipping from www.iautobodyparts.com part #STL03654U45 in case anyone with a Ford or Mopar is interested.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/wheels001.jpg

The offset should be OK as is for the front of the Dakota since in stock form, they use a FWD type offset.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/wheels002.jpg

[wedged]

the trans cross member is mostly complete. I just need to make a bracket for the urethane mount to sit on. I ended up pulling the engine off the frame to open up the bolt holes in the brackets on the frame for the engine mounts. I couldn't get the tailshaft to move to where it needed to be, but now I can move it around some.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/transcross001.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/transcross002.jpg

[wedged]

after spending some time holding up various bits of metal and trying to figure out how I wanted to make the mount pad, I decided to keep it simple. I bent a piece of 3/16" plate, dilled a hole and welded it in place. Next on the list is ordering some more materials: the loops for the driveshaft and exhaust to pass through the rear cross member, a few 1 3/4" 180 degree bends to modify the headers and some other odds and ends.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/transx001.jpg


http://www.bigblockdakota.com/transx002.jpg

[wedged]

I did some work on the bed. Before, the only thing holding the sides at the back was the tailgate when closed with the chains. On a stock truck, the bed floor was wood and there were wood cross bars under the bed. The rear most one was through bolted to the bottom of the rear stake pockets. I put some box tube from side to side to hold it together. The rear most piece of tube has uprights that go up inside the stake pockets. I plug welded them inside the pockets. It made the rear bed sides a lot more stiff and stable now, even with tailgate off.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/bed_gate001.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/bed_gate002.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/bed_gate003.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/bed_gate004.jpg

[wedged]

I haven't touched the truck in almost 2 months, other than to move it so i can park my dually in the shop while on the road at car shows. I got a job with March Performance and it's been keeping me quite busy :willy:

[waynieZ]

Congrats on the job! Those up rites will make a big difference over the wood ones.

[R.A.D]

havn't found any time lately?

[wedged]

Not much. I did pick up a few things i need, but no progress.

[R.A.D]

well at least your thinking about it:thumbsup:

[syborg tt]

Wow how did i miss this thread - great project.

[wedged]

I'm doing some modifications to the shorty hedman hedders. The passenger's side needed to have a tube moved so it would fit. I also cut off the collectors. They are supposed to be 2.5" but they were closer to 2.25" and had no length at all. I'll be putting on a longer collector that is 3" and then use a reducer after the collector to get the 2.5"

This is before i cut the collector off. I don't have an after pic.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hedderz-001.jpg

passenger's side with the #2 tube & collector removed

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hedderz-002.jpg

with the new tube

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hedderz-004.jpg

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hedderz-005.jpg

Right now the front suspension is extended and up against the bump stop. I'll be needing a softer set of springs for the front and the rate will be determined after the truck is finished. There is plenty of room for the arm to have full travel and not hit the tube.

[R.A.D]

two projects at once. i thought you were stretched thin

[R.A.D]

is it time to come up for air yet?:D

[wedged]

I'll be making some progress between the holidays. I have the week off and should be in the shop for most of that time. :woot:

[R.A.D]

there ya go...........

[elitecustombody]

Anymore progress pics? I just picked up 36 Dodge pickup, your build gives me some ideas.I'm planning for a bit of unorthodox powerhouse though:_paranoid

[wedged]

I'll be making some progress between the holidays. I have the week off and should be in the shop for most of that time. :woot:

:cool:

[454SSguy]

Love this build, any updates? I definitely need to talk with you offline about some suspension ideas. Great stuff.

[wedged]

no progress lately. I've spent the little extra time I have had on the '68 satellite.

[PonchoJohn]

How's it going?

[wedged]

a few weeks ago I put the bed in place and tack welded it to keep it from moving. Now I can make the brackets for it. I think I've got the cab floor figured out too, now I need a sheet of diamond plate steel.

Didn't get much done this year, but I'm not in a rush.

[wedged]

yesterday I finally got some more done on the headers .

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hedderz-006.JPG

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hedderz-007.JPG



http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hedderz-008.JPG

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hedderz-009.JPG

I still need to trim the collector length and add flanges . I'll likely run them awhile and then have them coated.

Here's the driver's side. Originally I thought I might have to get creative with the steering column and shaft, but it looks like it will be easier than I anticipated.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hedderz-010.JPG


Today I made a couple of bed mounts. The through bolt is sleeved so when it's tightened it will not crush the frame. I need to make 4 more similar to them and then the rear ones will be quite a bit different. I'll finish welding them with the bed removed from the frame.

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/bedmount-001.JPG

http://www.bigblockdakota.com/bedmount-002.JPG

[waynieZ]

Nice to see your still at it.

[R.A.D]

any updates?

[wedged]

No, but maybe over the next few weekends

[wedged]

rear bed mount. need to add the through bolt of course.

http://www.hemiswap.com/rearbedmnt01.JPG

[wedged]

finished the bed mounts and welding in the reinforcement tubes in the frame.

http://www.hemiswap.com/bedmount-005.JPG

http://www.hemiswap.com/bedmount-004.JPG

http://www.hemiswap.com/bedmount-003.JPG

[revmopar]

good to see you still plugging away at it. I bought a couple of old Dodge trucks and have started on the 38 I bought, it's going to be more street rod than pro touring but it should be fun.

[wedged]

had a piece of 14 gauge sheared to fit a portion of the floor. I need to add a hump to clear the trans.

http://www.hemiswap.com/1941_dodge_pickup_floorsteel01.JPG

[wedged]

trimmed some more of the old floor away and made a small notch just to get the floor to lay flat. test fitted a seat too.

http://www.hemiswap.com/1941_dodge_pickup_floorsteel02.jpg

http://www.hemiswap.com/1941_dodge_pickup_floorsteel03.JPG

[wedged]

worked on the toe board a little today. the 2x4's were used to space it off the table so I could deepen the arc a little. The sharp bends were done using a brake and the initial arc was done by hand.

http://www.hemiswap.com/dodge_1941_05.jpg

http://www.hemiswap.com/dodge_1941_04.jpg

http://www.hemiswap.com/dodge_1941_03.jpg

http://www.hemiswap.com/dodge_1941_02.jpg

http://www.hemiswap.com/dodge_1941_01.jpg

[wedged]

made the firewall notch today

http://www.hemiswap.com/1941_dodge_pickup_floor04.jpg

[waynieZ]

Good idea! It looks good.

[wedged]

trimmed the old firewall piece to fit



http://www.hemiswap.com/1941_dodge_truck-004.JPG

http://www.hemiswap.com/1941_dodge_truck-005.JPG

http://www.hemiswap.com/1941_dodge_truck-006.JPG

[wedged]

Firewall mostly welded. I filled 32 holes too.

http://www.hemiswap.com/1941_dodge_truck-firewall.JPG

[wedged]

Made the final piece for the trans hump. Just need to trim the hole in the floor , then weld it in

http://www.hemiswap.com/1941_dodge_truck_floor01.JPG

http://www.hemiswap.com/1941_dodge_truck_floor02.JPG

[WSSix]

Glad you're still plugging away at it. I really like alternative builds.

[waynieZ]

Nice to see an update. Looking good.

[wedged]

one eternity later....

dyno:

8ISDBOCdfug

walkaround:

uH8kyb6K-x0

boost with no traction:

RyW__S3ihpQ

light throttle data log drive:

n4tLU-fBAu4

[TechNova]

Looks cool. Enjoy it a little bit before you blow it apart for paint.

[WSSix]

Congrats on getting it on the road. I'm glad you stuck it out. Have fun dialing the engine in.

[wedged]

Looks cool. Enjoy it a little bit before you blow it apart for paint.

The paint was completed in 1941 and is staying as is :thumbsup:

[wedged]

Congrats on getting it on the road. I'm glad you stuck it out. Have fun dialing the engine in.

It's been running and driving since august 2017. There was a while it was non drivable when I was installing the 493. The turbos were put on in november 2021. I'm constantly working on the tune though.