Martz Subframe in 67 Camaro

[FR67C]

These are pics of an early Martz Subframe during install in my 67 Camaro.
Martz has made some improvements since this one was made.
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab261/fjr723/IMG_0042.jpg
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab261/fjr723/IMG_0043.jpg
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab261/fjr723/IMG_0044.jpg
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab261/fjr723/IMG_0078.jpg
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab261/fjr723/IMG_0079.jpg

[XLexusTech]

Hi and welcome to the site (I noticed this is post 6 for you) These Subs get a pretty bad review. Supposedly they flex like hell.. I don't know either way but I am yet to hear a good thing about them.. But then again some of the detractors have their own subs on the market. Hope it works for you. Let us know how it works once you get it together....:cheers: \

PS I head the down bars (firewall to sub) help with the flex so you shoud look into them.

[FR67C]

I heard the same things now. But at the time I bought it (10 years ago) you didn't have many choices. I plan to add the hoops if needed.

[David Pozzi]

I'd try and fill in the large cutouts in the crossmember and see if you can box it in on the bottom as much as possible. Also look for a way to add a small crossmember or tube near the anti-roll bar or radiator.
David

[BMR Tech]

The following is purely observational and only intended to offer advice, my intention is not to "bash" a competitors product. Looking at the frame rails of this subframe, they appear to be made from 2"x3" tubing which is standard chassis building frame size (as long as it is .120" or thicker) and used on 90% of the aftermarket front subframes out there. I doubt seriously that the rails are the problem. The main crossmember joining the two outer rails looks to be made from 1/4" formed plate. It appears to be completely open on the bottom which would allow the frame to be very weak torsionally. The only other cross tube is the front bar which is way to small (looks to be 1.5" or possibly 1.625") to offer much additional rigidity. Firewall bars will improve the stock or any aftermarket front subframe but I don't think this is the only solution. I agree with Dave that boxing the main crossmember should be the prime concern and would help tremendously. It would be really simple and inexpensive too. Anything you can do to tie the two rails together better will help and if you can get some gussets or better yet X-bracing tying them together you be be on par with other subframes out there.

[FR67C]

Thanks guys. I have been looking over the frame and the suggestions made. I plan to box the main cross member, add a cross member at the sway bar (probably a bolt in with bolts in the top and horizontally) then if I have the room add the down tubes from the firewall. The car has been sitting for 10 years waiting (kids in collage etc.) so now I want to get it drivable then add the frame work, interior upgrades and paint this winter.

[68protouring454]

2x4x.125 is what is used in street chassis, 2x3 is used in race car chassis to save weight and packaging, but they always use serious cages to combat that.

you NEED to use forward down bars from firewall to help resist twisting

[TBART70]

I'm having bad flashbacks again!

Hi David.