Which Brakes

[jamesg602]

I have been looking into Baer's front track kit for my 68 camaro, and saw two different style rotors (13"). One is the one peice and the other is the two piece with a black center hat, I would like to know what are if any advantages for going with the two piece rotor over the one piece? Is there any advantages for going with this Baer's kit over a C5 kit from Touring Classics as far as the one piece rotor is concerned. Any recomendations for any other packages such as a wilwood kit? :question:

[ProdigyCustoms]

I suggest checking Precision Brakes. They have Wilwood kits and there own kits that use Wilwood components.

We run a lot of Wilwood, and it is really nice stuff. A Baer track system is SO heavy, the 13' track system I sold weighed close to double what the 14" Wilwwod system we replaced it with.

Also, a bit of a shamless plug, after specing out your Precision brakes, you can get a 15% discount at GPSuperStore.com on your order

[enthusiast]

There is a reason the Baer system is heavier than the Wilwood system. The Baer rotors are thicker for better durability and heat dissipation than the Wilwood rotors. They can withstand more heat cycles. You need to fully understand the workings of the entire brake system before you just look at one aspect such as weight. If that were the case, companies such as GM an Ford would just go with the lightest rotors possible on cars such as the Corvette. However, they need to think about other features of the entire system, also.

The one-piece rotor is the most common rotor type. The two-piece rotor is more of a cosmetic upgrade. It was originally designed for racers who needed to change the rotors due to wear on the race track. The two-piece rotor allowed them to keep the same hat section and bolt on a new outer rotor. For street cars, it is mostly cosmetic. The hat section on a two-piece rotor is aluminum as opposed to cast iron on a one-piece rotor.

Hope this helps.

[jannes_z-28]

Since braking is about taking care of heat the mass of the rotor is important. A heavier rotor can take away more heat than a light rotor. In other words a heavy rotor is better if you are going to drive your car hard.

This has been discussed many times and this also explains why you shouldn't drill holes in rotors. Driling removes mass and therefore reduce the rotors brakeeffect.

All brake systems can handle ONE hard brake but a good system should be able to handle many hard brakes in a short time.


Jan

[ProdigyCustoms]

The rotor thickness on the Wilwoods I have here are 1.125 VS 1.25 for the Baer track set up. The .125 difference is not the major contributor to the weight loss. The weight loss is in the aluminum hat, and lighter caliper. The 6 piston calipers from Wilwood are lighter then the single piston Baer. The track calipers and brackets are bricks.

I have driven the hell out of cars with Wilwood street brakes, with no warping or heat issues. No, I have not had them on a road coarse for 12 hours, but I doubt anyone else here will either. i have however made 150 to 0 stops inside of a 1/4 mile repeadily, and I am a notorius fast driver and late braker on the street. I can warp some brakes, done to stockers plenty.

[enthusiast]

As mentioned, you can get the Baer system with an aluminum hat section. Additionally, there is a reason the Baer brackets weigh more than the Wilwood brackets. There needs to be sufficient struture in the brackets to prevent any flexing in the system. If you get any flex in the brackets or calipers, you will get a long or soft pedal. If you are not pushing your car hard on a road course, why are you so concerned about weight. Safety is he main concern with a brake system.

[jamesg602]

As mentioned, you can get the Baer system with an aluminum hat section. Additionally, there is a reason the Baer brackets weigh more than the Wilwood brackets. There needs to be sufficient struture in the brackets to prevent any flexing in the system. If you get any flex in the brackets or calipers, you will get a long or soft pedal. .
:question:
Has the Willwood kit or C5 ever given a soft pedal due to hard use or lighter brackets? Nothing against a Baer kit or anyone else I am just looking for the best bang for my buck.

[enthusiast]

I can't answer that, because I have never used a Wilwood kit on a track. I have chosen other systems.

[sinned]

As mentioned, you can get the Baer system with an aluminum hat section. Additionally, there is a reason the Baer brackets weigh more than the Wilwood brackets. There needs to be sufficient struture in the brackets to prevent any flexing in the system. If you get any flex in the brackets or calipers, you will get a long or soft pedal. If you are not pushing your car hard on a road course, why are you so concerned about weight. Safety is he main concern with a brake system.
Do you actually work for Baer or just one of the die hard loyalists? The typical Baer kits are not that impressive and can be easily duplicated for a fraction of the cost. Wilwood brakes offer a true competition upgrade vs. OE design that we just slap our name on and provide a bracket to adapt it to other spindles. Please bring tech if you intend to put down a manufacturer, simply stating that one is better (after admitting you have never used the one are putting down) is in very poor form.

I would add that simply making a bracket heavier has zero to do with strength or structural integrity. The reason for the concern about weight is that in a brake application that is known as un-sprung weight and has the same affect as adding almost 3X as much weight anywhere else on the car. Un-sprung weight leads to suspension unbalance, poor braking distances, poor acceleration, accelerated tire wear, and reduced fuel economy.

Got to add my smiley so nobody takes this the wrong way. :D

[chicane]

! SNAP !.... to the Dennimiser

This is :lateral:. This is a forum supported by what you could call, the "Above average" tuners and builders. Unsupported bias is frowned upon but we invite you to bring the TECH to support your opinion.

:thumbsup:

[jamesg602]

Good point, I appreciate all feed back thus far, and I'm still looking for best bang for my buck as far as a system goes. Any Technical Data can really help expidite my decision... :unibrow:

[ProdigyCustoms]

Bang for the buck, re read my first answer.

[jamesg602]

Prodigy you made yourself clear and I thank you for that, I'll be in touch in the weeks to come...

[4mm]

No problems here with my Wilwood six pistons or four pistons systems..I was concerned with the weight difference since one of my cars has Baer and they do weigh more. But that initial concern has fully evaporated since driving the cars hard for over six months now. I tend to favor Wilwoods for price, looks, and performance.

[mazspeed]

Having done a lot of racing, and been though many different brake components and have tested 2, 4 and 6 piston calipers, I would go with Baer all day long and twice on Sundays. The willwoods are ok brakes, but for serious competition you need to stay away from them. They also tend to have problems in wet weather as their seals don't seem to keep out moisture very well. The willwoods for our cars seemed light, but also didn't give me the kind of braking power that I wanted diving into the corners at the last second. Nothing really compares to Alcon and Brembos, but Baer is not far below them but well above willwoods in quality, and usability but baer has problems with backlogs and can't seem to get the product to you in a timely fashion. Willwoods also have a problem with being bled. They don't bleed very well unless you bench bleed them, and the nipples on the willwoods are tiny and can break off. If it's just for street use either one is fine, but for all out racing, forget about it. Just my 2 1/2 cents :-)

Mike

[Mean 69]

A couple things to think about here that hasn't been specifically mentioned. The Baer PBR floating type calipers are probably going to work a little better, IN GENERAL, on a stock type spindle, when you have a lot of grip in turns, than a fixed type caliper (such as Wilwood). The problem is the spindle-hub, not the brakes, and basically what happens is that the stock parts flex, and force the pistons on the fixed calipers back into the body a small amount. The result is a soft-long pedal that is cured by pumping once or twice (or three times). This deal is a LOT more prevalant on fixed caliper than it is on the floating type calipers, I can specifically tell you this from direct, current experience. I switched from the early type PBR calipers to a very nice set of Alcon mono-block six pots on my 69 test mule earlier this year, and the knockback is now pretty bad on the track, to the point where I pump the brake pedal very lightly with my left foot after every hard turn, prior to getting on the brakes in hard braking zones. It is really pronounced with manual brake, which I have, but would still be an issue with a boosted setup.

People rag on Wilwood, but it is a bit unfair. The reason, most likely, is that the kits that most of them have experience with, such as any that are listed in Summit Racing or Jeg's catalogs, are garbage. I bought a set years ago for a Chevelle, and they were less than awe-inspiring. The calipers have significant flex in hard braking, and in general the rotors are WAY too thin for anything but drag race use, which is exactly what those kits were modelled after. Those are not the only brakes they offer though, they make some pretty serious race stuff that I am certain is as good as some of the competition's upper end stuff.

On a budget, it is nearly impossible to beat the C5 type stuff, the front calipers are greatly improved from the first generation (i.e. C4) PBR twin pot floaters (which by the way, have a nasty reputation for failing dramatically on track cars), front rotors are thick at 1.25", overall a really good setup. Pad selection is really good, basically all of the good pad suppliers offer several different compounds, right off the shelf. Besides that, if you decide down the road that you need more capability, you can buy a kit from many of the upper end suppliers that will bolt right on (Stoptech, AP Racing, and many others), but bring your checkbook. The good stuff is expensive, for good reason. Expect to pay $5k for a four corner set of brakes, or more. Overkill for the street, but right at home, and necessary, for consistent track usage. If that's not compelling enough, the new C6-Z06 stuff will also bolt right on to the C5 brackets, and should be a really affordable upgrade when readily available (PBR is making this stuff, interestingly, but currently have no plans to release to the aftermarket due to capacity reasons, I asked: boo hoo).

Mark

[Damn True]

The thing that I find attractive about the GM based kits is that I have this fear (rational or not) that I will break something at Buttonwillow or Thunderhill on a Sunday afternoon. I'd like to be able to pick up emergency parts even if it isn't an exact perfect replacement at NAPA or Kragen so I can get home rather than parking the car 150 miles from home till next weekend.

Is this something I ought to worry about? I don't, and probably wont, have an F-250 and a trailer to bring my car to/from the track.

[Rubes]

here ya go...light weight and cheap Brembo's :rolleyes:

[mazspeed]

here ya go...light weight and cheap Brembo's :rolleyes:

I can't believe anyone in their right mind would buy those. A rice racers dream. heheh

[Steve1968LS2]

Do you actually work for Baer or just one of the die hard loyalists? The typical Baer kits are not that impressive and can be easily duplicated for a fraction of the cost. Wilwood brakes offer a true competition upgrade vs. OE design that we just slap our name on and provide a bracket to adapt it to other spindles. Please bring tech if you intend to put down a manufacturer, simply stating that one is better (after admitting you have never used the one are putting down) is in very poor form.

I would add that simply making a bracket heavier has zero to do with strength or structural integrity. The reason for the concern about weight is that in a brake application that is known as un-sprung weight and has the same affect as adding almost 3X as much weight anywhere else on the car. Un-sprung weight leads to suspension unbalance, poor braking distances, poor acceleration, accelerated tire wear, and reduced fuel economy.

Got to add my smiley so nobody takes this the wrong way. :D

I was just going to point out that you see Wilwood brakes on FAR FAR more race cars than you see Baer stuff. Most of thier kits I see are just upgraded PBR vette brakes. I do not believe they even make any of thier own calipers. Wilwood has been very big into racing brakes for decades and they make just about everything they sell (here in the US).

Again, Wilwood brakes can be found on sprint cars, NASCAR stuff.. winston cup cars and a host of professional race cars. I would say that speaks volumes for how they are engineered and made.

I think Baer brakes are nice for street use and occasional track use since the floating caliper is a bit easier to live with and pads are very easy to get since they are just C5 vette brakes with fancier rotors. I have beat the crap out of Wilwood brakes for years and they have never let me down. Then again most people I know that have Baer brakes are very happy with them as well.

I would also say that a heavier rotor does not necessarily make a better rotor since you also need to factor in other aspects like vane design materials used.

Some of this also depends on your budget. For the money it is hard to beat adapting C5 vette brakes to your car. I would also get a quote from Precision brakes in regards to the Wilwoods.

[Steve1968LS2]

Having done a lot of racing, and been though many different brake components and have tested 2, 4 and 6 piston calipers, I would go with Baer all day long and twice on Sundays. The willwoods are ok brakes, but for serious competition you need to stay away from them. They also tend to have problems in wet weather as their seals don't seem to keep out moisture very well. The willwoods for our cars seemed light, but also didn't give me the kind of braking power that I wanted diving into the corners at the last second. Nothing really compares to Alcon and Brembos, but Baer is not far below them but well above willwoods in quality, and usability but baer has problems with backlogs and can't seem to get the product to you in a timely fashion. Willwoods also have a problem with being bled. They don't bleed very well unless you bench bleed them, and the nipples on the willwoods are tiny and can break off. If it's just for street use either one is fine, but for all out racing, forget about it. Just my 2 1/2 cents :-)

Mike

I never had problems bleeding my Wilwoods.. or with the nipples breaking off.. hmm

Also, what Baers are you comparing to what Wilwoods? The 6-piston Wilwood kits are very high quality and equal to if not better to Baer (not counting the Alcon stuff).. the only quality issue ive had with Wilwood was bolts getting surface rust.

Again, for racing are you comparing the 2 piston PBR Baer stuff or the Alcon stuff? I haven't heard anything about their new 6 piston "budget" caliper. The brakes on Johnny's Camaro (Baer touring?) sure do work well though..

[Damn True]

here ya go...light weight and cheap Brembo's :rolleyes:


:eek: Woah! :eek:

dig the brand name of the product......kinda says it all eh?

[mazspeed]

I never had problems bleeding my Wilwoods.. or with the nipples breaking off.. hmm

Also, what Baers are you comparing to what Wilwoods? The 6-piston Wilwood kits are very high quality and equal to if not better to Baer (not counting the Alcon stuff).. the only quality issue ive had with Wilwood was bolts getting surface rust.

Again, for racing are you comparing the 2 piston PBR Baer stuff or the Alcon stuff? I haven't heard anything about their new 6 piston "budget" caliper. The brakes on Johnny's Camaro (Baer touring?) sure do work well though..

Hi Steve. The ones that we used were the Wilwood 4 piston set. And the Baer was the PBR's. I have a little idea how the 6 piston wilwoods are, but only in driving down the street and on mountain roads, but not all out racing. The 4 piston ones were problematic for bleeding and the nipples are very small in diameter and did break off at times so we drilled them out and installed new ones. I'm sure the 6 pistons would be better, but I would rather go with Bear's on just quality control alone, but they cannot keep up with demand so that's another issue. One question for you Steve, was your color choice for your 69, can you send me the color code combo for your 69? I love that color and want to go with the same.

Thanks
Mike

[Blown353]

Let me throw this into the mix... the new C6 Z06 calipers apparently bolt onto C5 spindles, so anyone who has done a C5 conversion (or has purchased spindles/brakes that use the C5 PBR calipers) can use the new 6-piston C6 Z06 calipers. Cost at the dealer is apparently just under $300/each for the Z06 calipers. That's a heck of a deal in my opinion. You can also pick up the 4-piston Brembo calipers used on the Caddy CTS-V for about $175/each, again a heck of a deal in my opinion. Just have to fab your own mounting bracket.

As mentioned though, with fixed calipers pad knock-back can become a concern, especially with very hard usage or R-compound tires or if the stock spindle is simply too flimsy. It can be very unnerving diving into a turn and have the brake pedal hit the floor. For an example, a friend of mine has a 2004 Subaru STI that experiences this issue under very hard driving and it is VERY unsettling the first time or if you forget to pump the brakes before *really* needing them; part of the fix for the 2005 cars was a revised/larger wheel bearing pack that reduces flex and therefore pad knockback; I have an 05 and don't have the problems that his 04 has. A floating caliper will be better in this regard, but a floating caliper will give up stiffness and "feel" compared to a good fixed caliper. Again, it's a bunch of tradeoffs and design choices you have to weigh.

I've had very good luck with my Baer Track system so far (old style PBR's) under street and hard backroad driving, but I can't comment on their trackworthiness. My hunch is they'll show their limitations under prolonged use. About as much abuse as my brakes have seen is 4 hard stops from 160 down to 35 or so over the span of 2 minutes. They still worked very well, even on the last stop, however I didn't continue to beat on them for another 10-15 minutes as I would in a typical track session. A friend baked the seals on the PBR's on his '69 Camaro after a track session at Thunderhill, but that's mostly because he didn't take a cool down lap and parked the car; the heat-soaked rotors just melted the poor seals away once the airflow stopped. That's more of "operator error" though rather than poor quality brakes. Oops.

Troy

[Steve1968LS2]

Hi Steve. The ones that we used were the Wilwood 4 piston set. And the Baer was the PBR's. I have a little idea how the 6 piston wilwoods are, but only in driving down the street and on mountain roads, but not all out racing. The 4 piston ones were problematic for bleeding and the nipples are very small in diameter and did break off at times so we drilled them out and installed new ones. I'm sure the 6 pistons would be better, but I would rather go with Bear's on just quality control alone, but they cannot keep up with demand so that's another issue. One question for you Steve, was your color choice for your 69, can you send me the color code combo for your 69? I love that color and want to go with the same.

Thanks
Mike

I had a little knockback on my 2000 SS but a little tap on the brake before the corner took care of it.

The think with Baer is that they don't make their calipers.. they are just PBR's so it is hard to compare thier "quality control" with Wilwoods. I have never ran thier 4 pistons on the front but I will check them out closer next time I get the chance. Thanks for the info..

My '69 was 2003 WRX blue pearl. The stripes are Nissan (2003) Silverstone used on the 350Z's and the Infinity G35's :)

[mazspeed]

I had a little knockback on my 2000 SS but a little tap on the brake before the corner took care of it.

The think with Baer is that they don't make their calipers.. they are just PBR's so it is hard to compare thier "quality control" with Wilwoods. I have never ran thier 4 pistons on the front but I will check them out closer next time I get the chance. Thanks for the info..

My '69 was 2003 WRX blue pearl. The stripes are Nissan (2003) Silverstone used on the 350Z's and the Infinity G35's :)
Hey Steve thank you so much for that info. Ill send the info to my painters this week and give you the credit on my lateral g page when the car is done. Yeah the PBR still is a little heavy but it's good stuff. When I take the ZZ430 motor out and put in the LS7 motor I might at that time go with the 6 piston billet Baer's. I held one the other day and it was a serious piece of hardware.

Thanks again
Mike

[Blown353]

I might at that time go with the 6 piston billet Baer's. I held one the other day and it was a serious piece of hardware.

Thanks again
Mike

Don't forget the new 6-piston Z06 calipers I mentioned earlier. Not knocking the Baer 6S's (they're nice calipers, basically the same as the Alcon 6 pistons but machined by Baer) but the C6-Z06 calipers are cheaper and being an OEM-application (although somewhat low production) pads should be easier/cheaper to come by. They are also excellent calipers.

I would wait a while until reading some feedback about the new Z06 calipers before dropping the change on the Baer 6S calipers; my hunch is that you'll be able to produce an excellent braking system (on par with or even exceeding the Baer 6S) for substantially less money.

Troy

[Yenko boy]

How long until Z06 calipers will be available? And were would I be able to find them? Thanks.

Anthony

[Damn True]

I reckon you'll be able to order them from a Chevy dealers parts dept.

[mazspeed]

Don't forget the new 6-piston Z06 calipers I mentioned earlier. Not knocking the Baer 6S's (they're nice calipers, basically the same as the Alcon 6 pistons but machined by Baer) but the C6-Z06 calipers are cheaper and being an OEM-application (although somewhat low production) pads should be easier/cheaper to come by. They are also excellent calipers.

I would wait a while until reading some feedback about the new Z06 calipers before dropping the change on the Baer 6S calipers; my hunch is that you'll be able to produce an excellent braking system (on par with or even exceeding the Baer 6S) for substantially less money.

Troy

You're right, but there is always that "bling bling" factor. :yes:

[USAZR1]

I have Baer's Track kit on the front of my car with two-piece rotors but might want to upgrade to the Z06 units. What's the deal on the Z06 pads costing so much and why?

[Datsbad]

anyone know where to get a frim pricing on the z06 brakes? and availability

[Blown353]

You're right, but there is always that "bling bling" factor. :yes:

You'd be surprised... IMO the red C6 Z06 calipers are more "bling bling" than the dark grey hard anodized Baer 6S calipers.

anyone know where to get a frim pricing on the z06 brakes? and availability

I found a post over at one of the Corvette Forums a couple days ago; a guy tossed a set onto his C5 and they bolted right up to his spindles with no mods required. He said he paid just under $300/each for the calipers, but I'll be damned if I can find the link right now, but I'll keep looking for it-- I forgot to bookmark it! He also had a set of rear Z06 calipers but hadn't test fit them yet. He did have pictures of everything, they looked REALLY REALLY nice.

Troy

[Damn True]

So potentially one could get the C-5 mounting brackets from Precision or Touring Classics then purchase the Z0-6 calipers from GM, throw in a prop. valve and be done with it?

Or am I missing something?

[Rubes]

found this in a Corvette forum;
Hi All,
I thought I had given you the price, but I guess not. Must have been another thread!

We will be selling the kit for about 1695 or so plus shipping. This includes all 4 calipers, rotors and pads!
-Gene
__________________
2004 Yellow Jacket GTO M6

Parts Manager
Fred Beans Pontiac Buick GMC
[email protected] or 610.495.1700
That same thread had these part numbers listed;
FR: 19121789
FL: 19121788
seems like I may have missed something?!?!?!

[Blown353]

So potentially one could get the C-5 mounting brackets from Precision or Touring Classics then purchase the Z0-6 calipers from GM, throw in a prop. valve and be done with it?

Or am I missing something?

That's the idea. In the thread I found the Z06 calipers bolted right up to C5 spindles with no mods whatsoever. So if your car is currently setup for C5 brakes, the C6-Z06 calipers should be a bolt-on!

Troy

[Damn True]

Wooohooo!

No difference in Master Cylinder requirement either? WOW!

Well, I'm planning on running Tylers spindle up front so that part should be a no brainer. Now all I need to do is find out what I need to do out back in terms of brackets and such. Hopefully not too much.

Anyone know how the parking brake is addressed in those rear calipers?

I love it when you can get bitchin stuff that just bolts on!

[D Rock]

I thought the C6 Z06 used a 14 inch front rotor compared to a 12.9 inch for the C5 corvettes. Does this not make any difference in the way the calipers bolt up?

Derek

[mazspeed]

Wooohooo!

I love it when you can get bitchin stuff that just bolts on!
Yeah that is the best thing. ;)

[4mm]

My only question left unanswered is how it affect the track width compared to oem? Many PTers have wheels with custom backspacing due to the tire widths and mods we already have.

[Blown353]

A rotor change (larger diameter) and master cylinder change would likely be required (the 6-piston caliper is going to need a larger bore MC to deliver more fluid volume), but you should still be able to pull of this swap fairly inexpensively if you are already running C5 brakes, and you can definately piece it together from scratch for a reasonable price-- my hunch is you can do it cheaper or on par with a Baer PBR Track kit.

I still can't find the darn thread I read a few days ago; hopefully someone else can dig it up soon. There was a lot of good info in it!

[Q-ship]

C6 info here (http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=5614&) and here. (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1189347&page=1&pp=20)

Do the right thing and take them to the track!!

[Teetoe_Jones]

This is our choice of brakes for the ATS track cars:

http://www.pro-touring.com/~tylerb/APracing.jpg

Those are the AP Racing 6 piston racing calipers, with the full floating 14"x1.50" slotted 2 pc rotor. We are planning on running this on our new tall AFX spindle, as it bolts up with zero mods. The skunk works car gets all our cool new products to get some hard numbers for you guys. The new Baer 6 pot, and the new Zo6 6 pots will also bolt right up to either AFX spindle. Hell, Wilwoods do too. Any brakes from a C5/C6 bolts right up to our new spindles.

This may give you an idea of how large these fockers are in person:
http://www.pro-touring.com/~tylerb/14inch.jpg

The 1st gen brake market just got more interesting.......
Tyler

[jamesg602]

Tyler this thread just got taken to a much higher level of need (in my case) Just curious how much would a brake package like that run. Not that I need it I am just wondering.... :hail: :hail:

[Teetoe_Jones]

PM about the price. ATS is an AP Racing dealer, we can hook it up.
Tyler

[Damn True]

LOL which one of you is the "model"....clowns! :thumbsup:

Those are siiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiick.

I think I dig the idea of the pieced together ZO6 setup...especially if as said above it can be done for about the same coin as a Baer PBR kit.

So seriously.....there's no wierd funny business required (ie home fab'd brackets) to put the rear on an older rear end housing?

[jamesg602]

Sent PM

[Teetoe_Jones]

LOL which one of you is the "model"....clowns! :thumbsup:

Those are siiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiick.

The one above is Shane, the Lead Engineer here @ ATS.

He's actually making fun of me:

http://www.pro-touring.com/~tylerb/Tito.jpg

I love these brakes. That is a 16" wheel back there.
http://www.pro-touring.com/~tylerb/Big.jpg

Tyler

[Damn True]

Bahahahaha! Thats rich!

What is the provision for a parking brake with the ZO6 stuff?

[Teetoe_Jones]

It uses a drum style parking brake that sits inside the 'hat' area of the rear rotor.
Tyler

[wickedmotorhead]

Tyler I thought you were going to photoshop in larger breasts....man I'm so embarassed! My modeling career is in shambles now thanks a lot.

[USAZR1]

I love those brakes but don't think they would clear my 17" wheels.

[protour]

It uses a drum style parking brake that sits inside the 'hat' area of the rear rotor.
Tyler

Just like the Eagle Vision TSi and the Intrepid TSi models...

I'd be interested in seeing how large of a brake I can fit behind a 16inch rim... My car won't notice a difference from a 13 inch rotor to a 14 inch, especially when they are cooled correctly!

Hmmm, Now I have to think....

-Matt

[Teetoe_Jones]

I love those brakes but don't think they would clear my 17" wheels.

They come in 13" diameter too Clint. We can do 13" all the way to 15.5".
Tyler

[wickedmotorhead]

Matt we currently have Baer's 13" Track kit on our development car with 16 rims. Slight "massaging" of the caliper was required but not much. They sure fill up the rim nice! I will try to post a pic tomorrow from the shop computer.

[Damn True]

Someone mentioned the need for a bigger master cyl. to push enough fluid for the larger calipers.
Can anyone identify an appropriate unit for that?
Is there an easy swap candidate?

[Rick Dorion]

I have C4 13" inside my Vintage Wheel Works 16" rims using a 1/4" spacer. Get alot of compliments on how it fills the space. Haven't tried any caliper massaging. Tyler - any pics? I'd like to shed the spacers.

[chicane]

Someone mentioned the need for a bigger master cyl. to push enough fluid for the larger calipers.
Can anyone identify an appropriate unit for that?
Is there an easy swap candidate?

No. Unfortunately there is not an easy swap candidate.

The best sizing is different for both, front and rear. The front needs a 7/8" and the rear needs a 1". Bummer that no one makes a cast unit that has differential bore sizing. Now there is an idea for a product.....

Never fear, we have an answer to that too. We have a product on the horizon that will facilitate differentail bore sizing for independant front and rear needs. It will even be bias adjustable........

[chicane]

I have C4 13" inside my Vintage Wheel Works 16" rims using a 1/4" spacer. Get alot of compliments on how it fills the space. Haven't tried any caliper massaging. Tyler - any pics? I'd like to shed the spacers.

Rick, Tyler is talking about my 67.... same wheels and same brakes and they still use 3/16" spacers. But they are only needed when the pads are fresh and full thickness.

[chicane]

So seriously.....there's no wierd funny business required (ie home fab'd brackets) to put the rear on an older rear end housing?

I am working on that as we speak. The rear package is a differential bore, four piston, 13" set-up. Ill let it out of the bag when I have everything finalized.

[Damn True]

No. Unfortunately there is not an easy swap candidate.

The best sizing is different for both, front and rear. The front needs a 7/8" and the rear needs a 1". Bummer that no one makes a cast unit that has differential bore sizing. Now there is an idea for a product.....

Never fear, we have an answer to that too. We have a product on the horizon that will facilitate differentail bore sizing for independant front and rear needs. It will even be bias adjustable........


Should I just start signing over paychecks to you guys?