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jsr69
03-22-2009, 09:16 AM
I need some advice from the many guys who have completed multiple cars and how they have dealt with new weatherstrip.

A little history. The car was completed disassembled and then the body components were all attached and aligned. Gaps were set, and the panels matched. I then began the tedious process of priming and blocking, 5 times to be exact. When it came time to paint, I disasssembled the car again and painted each component separately. Here's where the problem has arose.

Before removing the doors, I drilled dowl holes and installed pins. I rehung the doors after paint back on the dowls and everything went right back into place. All gaps look and the doors shut nice. I started assembling the doors and installed new OER weatherstrip. Now the doors as so frickin tight and I literally have to slam them to get them shut. Here's the bad part, I shut the passenger door so hard that I flexed the sheet metal and cracked the clear and probably a layer of bondo underneath it. Now I've got to repair and repaint the door.

I can't believe I'm the first to run into this problem. So here's my question, what are other guys doing to address this problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

camcojb
03-22-2009, 10:16 AM
I need some advice from the many guys who have completed multiple cars and how they have dealt with new weatherstrip.

A little history. The car was completed disassembled and then the body components were all attached and aligned. Gaps were set, and the panels matched. I then began the tedious process of priming and blocking, 5 times to be exact. When it came time to paint, I disasssembled the car again and painted each component separately. Here's where the problem has arose.

Before removing the doors, I drilled dowl holes and installed pins. I rehung the doors after paint back on the dowls and everything went right back into place. All gaps look and the doors shut nice. I started assembling the doors and installed new OER weatherstrip. Now the doors as so frickin tight and I literally have to slam them to get them shut. Here's the bad part, I shut the passenger door so hard that I flexed the sheet metal and cracked the clear and probably a layer of bondo underneath it. Now I've got to repair and repaint the door.

I can't believe I'm the first to run into this problem. So here's my question, what are other guys doing to address this problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I've found they get better with use, and just getting them shut and letting them sit that way for a while helps them to take a set. With that said, I've also noticed big differences in the density of the rubber and the way it's made between different brands. On my trunk seal I tried a couple different ones, and they were so stiff that they held the trunk lid up out of alignment when shut. I went to softseal and the problem was gone, so you may also try a different brand.

Jody

Perry Mitchell
03-22-2009, 11:18 AM
What brand are you using as I have heard that Metro is the best.

waynieZ
03-22-2009, 11:19 AM
Is that new latex weatherstripping any good?

Musclerodz
03-22-2009, 11:30 AM
new latex is not much better than others. Metro is the best and we sell a bunch of it. I have sold lots of door and trunk seals to cure the slamming issue with many cars.

jsr69
03-22-2009, 02:42 PM
The brand I'm using is OER from Classic Industries.

I was told to try some weatherstip lubricant on the seals and then shut the doors for as long as possible and that would loosen them up. Has anyone tried that.

Mike

Please PM me with a price for a pair of the Metro's. I'm willing to try about anything.

Thanks everyone. Keep the suggestions coming.

Musclerodz
03-22-2009, 10:39 PM
The brand I'm using is OER from Classic Industries.

I was told to try some weatherstip lubricant on the seals and then shut the doors for as long as possible and that would loosen them up. Has anyone tried that.

Mike

Please PM me with a price for a pair of the Metro's. I'm willing to try about anything.

Thanks everyone. Keep the suggestions coming.
That is the common response for poor fitting seals. Metro is $75/pr shipped for the doors. They will shut right the first time you close the doors.

camcojb
03-22-2009, 11:01 PM
That is the common response for poor fitting seals. Metro is $75/pr shipped for the doors. They will shut right the first time you close the doors.

what's the time frame for door seals for a 64 Chevelle?

Jody

waynieZ
03-22-2009, 11:05 PM
how much for door and roof ?

Musclerodz
03-23-2009, 08:27 AM
what's the time frame for door seals for a 64 Chevelle?

JodyJody, price is $75 shipped for your door seals, ships same day most times if order is placed before noon, next day if later.

Musclerodz
03-23-2009, 08:34 AM
how much for door and roof ?Is is the same price to buy their basic kit which includes the door, trunk, and roof rail, as buying the door and roof rail seperately. price is $149 shipped for the basic kit. Almost everyone opts for the quarter window seals as well when buying.

awesometool
03-23-2009, 06:45 PM
I had the same problem with soft seal after weeks same thing no change or forming. Pulled them and installed metro then they closed better and after a week they close perfect. HUGE DIFFERENCE