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COYBILT
02-03-2009, 08:23 PM
I need some help here with brushed aluminum parts, I am trying to keep them from oxidizing and anodizing is out the question. I have tried Wax and it streaks the aluminum, I have thought about clearing the aluminum.
I have some questions for people reguarding clearing brushed aluminum.
I am trying to clear my brushed:valve covers, air clearer lids, March pulleys and brackets, etc. I can't seem to find a clear coat that will hold up to the heat and wont yellow. I can't anodize the parts because some of the parts are assembled like the AC compressor,etc. I have thought of Alodining the parts with DX501 and see how it goes. I need to find out if Alodine will hold up to the heat of the engine bay. Does any one have any good ideas?





Scott or one of the moderators please don't move this I need every ones input on this.

zbugger
02-03-2009, 08:34 PM
Have you tried ZoopSeal? I know it's good on polished products, but it might work on brushed as well. Here's the faq page.

http://www.zoops.com/zoopseal_faq.asp

If that doesn't answer what you need to do, you could contact them and ask if it would work on the brushed finish.

COYBILT
02-05-2009, 12:26 AM
I tried the Alodine what a joke, I could never quite get it perfect.
I ordered the zoop seal and will see how that works.
Any one have any other suggestions?

RobG
02-05-2009, 09:53 AM
Have you considered Eastwoods Diamond Clear? They make two versions of it and one is a higher temp formula. I just use the original version and it works pretty nice but the pullies would be my concern because without getting the belt surfaces hard coated or something not much will hold up to that kind of use. Another more expensive option is brushed chrome, I don't know if you've checked into that but that's a really nice durable finish as well.

Northeast Rod Run
02-05-2009, 11:09 AM
hi guys, I've been floating around on the forum for quite a while but never posted untill now.

I know a lot of people don't like to clear brushed, or satin parts because it takes away from the actual finish (too shiny), but I've used this powercoat before and it comes the closest to leaving the original finish, and powdercoat holds up pretty good to heat

how about something like this

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=16&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=844&iSubCat=845&iProductID=16

VP23271
02-05-2009, 12:05 PM
You can do powder coat or thermal coat in a clear. A local shop did my stuff and it came out fine. The powder coat he used seemed to give more of a glossy finish, but the thermal coat had just a little less of a shine. My polished aluminum parts don't look as polished and bright, but now they are maintenance free. Their might be a powder coat or thermal coat company that makes a product with a low sheen or satin finish? A powder coater can also mask off the surfaces on the pulleys that come in contact with the belts, but I am not sure if that is necessary (but it cant hurt).

FYI - Another thing that my powder coater taught me was that the clear thermal coat he applies does not need to be baked like powder coat does. Use caution when powder coating cast aluminum parts. If the part is a cheap casting (made in china), the casting may have "air voids" in the casting. After the part is powder coated, it is then cured thru the baking process (heat). That heat can cause the air in the voids to expand and rise to the surface. You end up with a powder coated part with air bubbles/blemishes on the surface. He warned me and told me it happens every once in a great while. I guess I was that "once in a great while" lol. We re-did the valve covers with a room temp dry thermal coat and they came out fine.

andrewmp6
02-05-2009, 07:11 PM
Zoop seal is nice its a pain to apply but keeps stuff polished for 6 months to a year.You'll need some distilled water to rinse the parts with before you seal it.

amaronut
02-12-2009, 06:58 PM
clear annodize

DriverzInc
02-12-2009, 10:35 PM
What I've found works best is a matte clear powder coat. We use powder coat clears on all our brushed wheels.

lsbilletworks
02-13-2009, 08:29 AM
Hey all,

Sorry about jumping straight into a thread before a proper "Hey I'm new here" post. I will do that in a bit.

Here's a pic of a coil bracket that I shot with a clear powder (in this case it was gloss) over a brushed finish. Look at the part on the left. The one on the right was the original part that was used as a template.

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u290/risteven/powdercoat/kevin-cb.jpg

HTH,

Rick

Blake Foster
02-13-2009, 09:37 AM
wd 40 will stop the oxidation and makes it easy to clean doesn't change the finish too much and won't make it glossy

COYBILT
02-13-2009, 10:21 AM
I decided to man up and just rebrush parts if needed.
I talked to Steve Strope about the 515GTB charger, He said they just rebrush parts that are on it here and there. Its the only way to keep brushed aluminum looking like brushed aluminum.