Whats the best 4-link for second gen camaro

[Every Detail]

I was lookin at the Hiets kit that bolts in for a 70 camaro.Has any one used this kit or any thing comparable?

[frankenstang]

Hehe, have you seen this setup yet?

http://gmachinechassis.com/pics2008/2ndgenweb.jpg

[Every Detail]

who makes that? But im not looking to spend that much.

[rich-allen]

JMO..... Hedits stuff is cheap.

[Every Detail]

Whats wrong with hedits

[Cread01]

The only thing I didn't like about the heidt's kit was that the upper links are mounted on the outside of the frame rails. It may be ok for some but if I am going to go through all the work to do that I am going to mini tub too and it wouldn't be worth it with that kit. In my opinion if you are going to use stock frame rails the prodigy bar is the way to go. The g-bar or air bar is nice also but the prodigy bar has more adjustment.

just my .02

[rich-allen]

"Whats the Best 4 Link for second gen camaro"

1. Lateral Dynamics

2. DSE

3. Chassis Works

Heidits isn't in the same league as these guys. I've read that the hedits give a loose feeling ride. Excessive body roll, mig welded joints ect.
Hedits caters more to the Mustang crowd.

This is one area you shouldn't scrimp. Buy the best parts you can and look to save money else where.

[fesler]

Go with the Airbar from Air Ride, Art Morison or Chassis Works set up. They kick ass over the rest IMO and we do alot of cars with rear set ups.

[lil427z]

martz chassis. dse.
rick k:thumbsup:

[Every Detail]

can i use coilovers with the air bar?and does anyone have any links to these web sites so I can check these other kits out.

[awr68]

can i use coilovers with the air bar?and does anyone have any links to these web sites so I can check these other kits out.

Yes you can use coilovers with the air bar.

I would look into DSE, here's the link. They also have a mini-tub kit and sub-frame connectors for ya!!

http://www.detroitspeed.com/

[awr68]

Hehe, have you seen this setup yet?

http://gmachinechassis.com/pics2008/2ndgenweb.jpg

Is that a Schwartz chassis?

[scherp69]

can i use coilovers with the air bar?and does anyone have any links to these web sites so I can check these other kits out.

Here's the airbar with coilovers. Give Frank at www.gpsuperstore.com a call, he'll set you up.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/PICT0015-1.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/PICT00212.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/PICT0081.jpg

[holschen]

http://www.maxgsystems.com/presenter/Portal/Page.aspx?Id=104637
looks good but there´s to little info about this kit on this board??

[rich-allen]

http://www.maxgsystems.com/presenter/Portal/Page.aspx?Id=104637
looks good but there´s to little info about this kit on this board??

Look over to your left, Max-G is a sponsor of this site

[darren@ridetech]

Yes the AirBar will work with coil overs. 11.5" compressed and 16.5" extended

[holschen]

Look over to your left, Max-G is a sponsor of this site

but between the g-bar air-bar and max-g whats best for high speedperformance ??
still very little info about the max-g system

thanks eye up Rich

[scherp69]

who makes that? But im not looking to spend that much.

I think that's what you need to figure out is what your budget is and how much you want to cut up your car.

Prodigy Bar, Air Bar or Alston G-bar (the air bar does not allow for any adjustment) all use coil overs and will bolt on to your existing frame rails. It's recommended that you weld in though. These will run you about $1800 to $2200 including coil over shocks. If you want something that is easy to install and has good performance (most people will not push their cars to the limits of these products) than these would be a good choice.

The DSE quadra link is a great product for about $2500. I know the first gen kit you had to cut your floor up, not sure if you do with this one. I'm leaning towards you would have to.

I don't much about the Lateral Dynamics except that it starts at about $3600 and goes from there depending on the options you choose.

Other than the Heidts one (which I don't know much about and have only heard that it's cheap), I think you start to get higher up into costs and quality (full chassis designs). Depending on what you are going to do with your car and how much you want to spend should help make your decision. I went with the air bar with coil overs (and will be getting Frank to upgrade the arms soon) as I know I will never push my car to the limit. I'm sure I'm going to be more than happy with the prodigy bar set up (once I get the upgraded arms).

[Marcus SC&C]

The coil over version of the AirBar is the G-Bar. It`s been out for several years now and has built a great reputation. It works great on the street and suprisingly well on the race track too. The "Prodigy Bar" is the Airbar with coilovers but with heims and adj. links. You can retrofit any G Bar with those for a few bucks with parts from any racing catalog. If the cars going to see a lot of street miles I wouldn`t. Heims transfer more NVH to the chassis and wear much faster than bushings. Our rule of thumb is that if it runs open headers then heims are fine. In a very clean environment they can hold up for a while but here in PA. we end up replacing even the most expensive heims every few years because they`re buzzing and rattling. We`ve got drawers full of them from client`s cars that we recycle on off road stuff where we don`t care if they rattle. There are 1st Gen Camaros outrunning new twin turbo,all wheel drive Nissan GT-Rs on the road race track with the standard G-Bar. You`ll see articles on it in the car rags in a couple months. Honestly I was suprised and I helped them set the Camaro up! My point is that it doesn`t necessarily have to be "upgraded" to perform well. I`d be very comfortable going for the G-Bar and never look back. I`ve been looking for a `78 TranAm to put one in myself. Here`s one of our clients cars with the G Bar.

The Max-G stuff is made by kit car company Highland Daytona Racing. They`re about 45 minutes from us. It`s race car stuff. If you`re building a race car and are sold on a satchell link then it might be worth checking out. Oddly for a race oriented piece it has no geometry adjustability. As many mufflers and I`ve smashed on my lowered 2nd Gens (8 of em) the height of that one crossmember makes me a little nervous. Mark SC&C

http://www.scandc.com/images/G%20Bar%20Sm.jpg
http://www.scandc.com/images/photos/MrAnderson1_medium.jpg

[ProdigyCustoms]

Below is The Prodigy Bar WITH the sway bar option at work on the Autocross and dragstrip. On the autocross we did good but as you can see I am no autocross driver and the car had a lot more in it. A real driver would have been right there with the better performances which were in the 37s for the most part except for a couple standouts that ran high 36s. I was slowing way to soon for the corners and babying it through the corners far to much. Being the straight liner I am you can see me get "comfortable" on the straights.

On the dragstrip, We lost the throttle cable half way through first gear, but you can see the thing hooks up pretty well with nearly 700 torque on the dragstrip and has no wheel hop even in a burnout with 100MPH wheel speed.

I have had the chance to use the car both with and without the conversion to the Rod Ends, and the car simply works better with the rod ends then with the urethane bushings. There is just no bind now, plain and simple.

I really do believe this is the best hooking suspension you can buy that handles too.

As Marcus mentioned, the Kevlar rod ends are absolutly for clean use in casual driven cars that are rode hard. They ARE NOT for everyday drivers. However, they are only $26 to replace, and take 5 minutes each to change. So for our cars that are drag or autocross on weekend, or just driven hard in good weather.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u212/ProdigyCustoms/th_MOV01020.jpg (http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u212/ProdigyCustoms/?action=view&current=MOV01020.flv)

http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u212/ProdigyCustoms/?action=view&current=MOV01020.flv

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u212/ProdigyCustoms/th_MOV01029.jpg (http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u212/ProdigyCustoms/?action=view&current=MOV01029.flv)

http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u212/ProdigyCustoms/?action=view&current=MOV01029.flv

[georgedz]

Here you go. I just ordered mine from Martz for a gen2 $1340 +300 for the swaybar,QA1's are an upgrade. I'm going to combine this with a Fab9 from Alston chassis works. Good luck!!

http://www.martzchassis.net/page7.htm
http://www.cachassisworks.com/

[zbugger]

I hate to say it, but after seeing it all in action this past weekend, I'm wanting a Quadralink more and more. Yeah, it could have been Kyle's driving, but that 2nd gen looked damn good no matter what it was doing. And after talking to a couple guys who got rides in the car, as they were luckier than I was, they said the car was absolutely solid.

[Serpa69]

I hate to say it, but after seeing it all in action this past weekend, I'm wanting a Quadralink more and more. Yeah, it could have been Kyle's driving, but that 2nd gen looked damn good no matter what it was doing. And after talking to a couple guys who got rides in the car, as they were luckier than I was, they said the car was absolutely solid.


Agree, I would not go any other way. The engineering that goes into there stuff and the quality is what you pay for. I would go a different route if I was an airbag guy and wanted to look cool or I was trying to cut budget, but in my experience there stuff works. I like the replacement of the Beer can rear frame rails also, It really helps stiffen up the car.

[Every Detail]

thanx guys this is a real help.how much is the g-bar and should i run a sway bar.http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/qq303/sbc350z28/cars052.jpg

[dstryr]

Of topic but what kind of rims are those?

[scherp69]

thanx guys this is a real help.how much is the g-bar and should i run a sway bar.http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/qq303/sbc350z28/cars052.jpg

Give Frank a call at www.gpsuperstore.com he'll hook you up with a good price. I would say less than 2k with coilovers. Here's a link if you want the prodigy bar http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=16153&highlight=g-bar It also gives you an idea on the pricing.

[ProdigyCustoms]

The Prodigy Bar is $1900 with Single adjustable Coil Overs and you can use your original rear or buy a ready housing or rear. There is a double adjustable option also for only $250 more and is really nice if you plan to drag race much. Also gives added adjustability on the autocross and street too.

Te sway bar works really well on the autocross and helps control lean (watch the video). Also, I notice little to no effect in ride comfort on the street

The Sway Bar is a $300 option

[Marcus SC&C]

The G-Bar is $1739. You won`t find much if any difference in prices between Chassisworks vendors. Chassisworks doesn`t like dealers undercutting each other and selling the products short so places that do it don`t stay dealers for long.

Frank are you running the CW adj. rate rear bar or a conventional one? Just curious. You may not have had the fastest time of the day but it looks like you had a hell of a good time! :) Mark SC&C

[ProdigyCustoms]

No CW. It is a bolt on adjustable rate bar, pretty simple actually. Air Ride is trying one now on the Nova. I was the test dummy, LOL!

[Marcus SC&C]

Thanks Frank. I just saw it in some of your pics. I know that bar well. You`re right, it`s an excellent piece! We`ve prototyped several applications with that manufacturer lately. I really like the new OE style end links etc. It`s especially nice for the folks that have an earlier G Bar that won`t accept the new CW adj. bar. Mark SC&C

[Dukeofsho]

Prodigy Bar, Air Bar or Alston G-bar (the air bar does not allow for any adjustment) all use coil overs and will bolt on to your existing frame rails. It's recommended that you weld in though.

I have had problems with just bolting the on. I intalled an airbar system on a Gen I camaro and had it brake loose. It sheard a couple of bolts off. My thoughts are the the frame rails were a little thin and the bolts worked them selves loose. I later found out the the original frame rails were "ground down" to remove rust and scale by the owner. Then painted chassis black. Doh! Now I weld every system in. If you ever wanted to go back to the original suspension the stitch weld could be cut and ground down.