Project "Sleeper" - 69 Camaro updates

[BBC69Camaro]

Well I finally decided I needed my own project thread rather than keep posting updates to my welcome thread:
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=12701

For lack of a better project name, I chose "Sleeper" since I want to keep the stock look of my 69 Camaro but modernize it with more HP, better brakes, suspension etc. Obviously if you look closely you will notice it is not stock, but hopefully to the casual observer it will look like a stocker. I am still considering putting full Z/28 emblems on it and a 302 cowl decal just to throw one off further.

Some pictures of the car:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Exterior/Exterior003.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Exterior/Exterior002.jpg

It is a 69 Camaro with the RS option with a cowl hood, automatic (700R4) and white interior. It has some z/28 Emblems that the previous owner had put on them. I was also told that it had a early 90s restoration done to it. I think the guy I bought the car from got it running again (bought it from a younger guy) and flipped it. I base this on the general state that the car was in (all the fluids hadn't been changed in a long time, radiator was just about rusted out etc). But that is okay, I was looking for something that had a really good body but needed an engine. I was still able to drive it home just fine, although it had some electrical and carb problems later and sat.

Overall the goal is to do as much work myself as I possibly can, both to learn how to do it and for the challenge.

I enrolled in a local JC and started taking automotive classes as I really hadn't done stuff like this before and really wanted to do it right. So it didn't take long for me to pull it apart anyways:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Old%20Engine/FrontSuspension000a.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Old%20Engine/OldEngine003.jpg

[BBC69Camaro]

Old engine and trans, and old tired 307 passenger block from a late 70s early 80s car and a 700R4 trans:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Old%20Engine/OldEngine008.jpg


Originally the plan was just to build an engine for the car, but that snowballed (more about that later). So I started building a big block to drop in the car. It is a 454 GenV block I found at a junkyard (took 4 tries to get one without cracks in it). It is bored 030 over with a stroker crank making it 489ci (8.0L).

So starting on the engine blue print, it is magna-fluxed, sonic tested. Mains, cylinder bores and deck are checked for straightness to get a baseline (pretty good but some machining is in order to make it perfect):

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine001c.jpg

All the machining is done by me in my engine machining class (except boring and honing they didn't have that machine at the time).

Nice fresh block (with Por-15 engine paint on it; I just love this paint, you can hammer it and pour brake clean on it, doesn't phase it):
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine001z.jpg

Custom grinding was done on the top of the block for increased oil return and a screen kit is installed (case I grenade a valve it will save my bottom end):
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine002.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine003.jpg

[BBC69Camaro]

Bottom end goes together:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine005.jpg

All the main bearings are clearanced within .0001 of each other, for very even oil distribution. The goal is not so much max HP but a high HP build that will be very reliable.

Brodix RR-O heads are purchased. Out of the box they have a horrible run-out on the valve seats (max of .009; when we want to see under .002 at least; ideal is under .0005). The guides are honed, valves are checked (they are really good less than .0005 run out on the valve face). Machining the valve seats is done and a run-out of under .0005 is attained. The heads are surfaced (the surface wasn't perfectly flat, plus wanted to raise the compression just a tad).
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine013b.jpg

The intake and exhaust ports are ported and polished.
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine013a.jpg

The chambers are cleaned up and CC matched within 0.1 CC of each other. The heads are vacuum checked (20in of Vacuum they seal nice and tight). Should have a real nice and even compression ratio across all cylinders of 9.8:1:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine013c.jpg

Cam goes in:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine015.jpg

It is a Comp Cams "Thumpr" roller cam 227/241 @.050 547/530 lift 107deg lobe separation. I went with the Thumpr as from my understanding a common weakness of a big block is it lack of exhaust breathing. My hope is that with the 107 deg lob separation and the increased exhaust duration that this will help correct some it.

[BBC69Camaro]

Pistons, rods and pins are all weighed and measured. One Piston was a bit out of spec but JE in Huntington Beach swapped it right out for me with a smile, even giving me one that allowed me to get my piston to cylinder wall clearances all within .0001 of each other.

Pistons are SRP forged, crank is a Eagle cast crank good for 750hp (since I am not building a high RPM motor should be good), rings are Perfect Circle moly and rods are I-Beam Eagle.

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine018.jpg

Pins are installed, rings are gapped, rod bearings clearance like the mains to .0001 of each other.

Short block is together now:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine019.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine020.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine021.jpg

Oil pump is a Moroso high volume with pickup and wind age tray.

[BBC69Camaro]

Heads go on, nice shot of the custom grinding both on the block and heads:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine023.jpg

Verifying timing:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine024.jpg

Intake is port matched to the heads and goes on. Full roller rockers (Comp Cams) with 1.7:1 ratio. Edelbrock RPM Air gap:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine026.jpg

Valve and timing covers go on (Trans-dapt powder coated valve covers and GM stock timing cover for a GenV motor painted with left over Por-15):
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine027.jpg

Valve covers are crappy and leak and replaced later but the intake sure looks nice (durashine finish):
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine028.jpg

[BBC69Camaro]

Water pump (Stewart Components Stage 2 pump) and MSD Distributor go in:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine030.jpg

March performance pulleys for v-belt systems and Holly Street avenger 770cfm with air cleaner go on:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine031.jpg

Hooker ceramic coated headers with 2” primaries and 3.5” collectors:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine032.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine033.jpg

Finished product ready to start up:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine034.jpg

[BBC69Camaro]

After initialing firing up the motor on an engine stand, all the problems found were fixed (bad radiator cap, leaking valve covers, spark plug wire holders that let the wires hit the headers etc)

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine036.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine037.jpg

Fast Air/Fuel meter and dual wideband O2 sensors are installed, along with Pypes Race-Pro mufflers (went with their 3” stainless exhaust kit as well):
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine042.jpg

More engine buildup pics here:

http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/

General Stats for the engine
Engine Type
Big Block Chevy displacing 489ci / 8.0L
(4.280 bore x 4.250 stroke)
Block
454 Big Block Chevy GenV standard deck

Compression Ratio
9.8:1

Oiling
Moroso 6 quart oil pan
Moroso high volume oil pump
Moroso windage tray
Custom machining done to top of block to increase oil return

Rotating Assembly
Eagle Rotating Assembly, Eagle cast crank, Forged SRP Pistons, Eagle I-Beam Rods, Perfect Circle Moly Rings, Clevite Tri-Armor Bearings

Cylinder Heads
Brodix Race-Rite Oval Port 270cc intake runner, 119cc Combustion chambers. Race valve job, Mini-ported, chambers matched and polished.

Camshaft
Comp Cams "Thumpr" roller cam 227/241 @.050 547/530 lift 107deg lobe separation. Roller timing chain

Valvetrain
2.250 inch intake / 1.880 exhaust valves
5/16" Comp Cams magnum push rods
dual valve springs

Induction
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap manifold, Holly Street Avenger 770cfm, Aeromotive Street Rod electric fuel pump

Ignition
MSD 6AL box and Distributor with MSD 8.8 spark plug wires

Exhaust
Hooker ceramic coated headers 2 in primaries, 3.5 in collector. Pypes 3" stainless exhaust system with Race-pro mufflers

Fastners
ARP

Gaskets
Fel-Pro

Cooling
Ron Davis Double pass radiator with integrated coolant recovery tank, dual 13" spal fans and controller, Stewart Components Stage 2 high flow water pump, Robert Shaw thermostat, Earl's transmission cooler.

Misc
Tilton Super Starter, March Performance V-Belt system. Billet Specialties Valve covers, wire holders and breathers. Moroso battery relocation kit. Por-15 engine paint.


Should be about 600hp and 600ft-lbs of torque at peak at the flywheel and about 500ft-lbs off idle!

Special thanks to my school and instructor(s) for teaching me and letting me work on my car in the shop.

Ready to put in the car now. But wait all the brakes and suspension stuff will be easier to work on while the motor is out…

[BBC69Camaro]

I can’t put this nice new engine in an engine compartment like this:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/FrontSuspension000b.jpg

So off the front clip it goes:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/FrontSuspension000e.jpg

Needs paint badly:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/FrontSuspension000g.jpg

[Bad pic] Once cleaned up and painted looks like new:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/FrontSuspension000h.jpg

[BBC69Camaro]

Time to take a look at the front suspension and firewall, just about everything needed attention (new brakes, ball joints bushings etc)
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/FrontSuspension001.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/FrontSuspension004.jpg

Lets pull the front sub-frame. It needed some minor welding to get it back in shape:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/FrontSuspension005.jpg

And start cleaning up the firewall:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/FrontSuspension006.jpg

Front clip back from the powder coaters:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/FrontSuspension008.jpg

[BBC69Camaro]

Now we are cooking, fresh paint on the firewall and front sub-frame, and new goodies:
Touring Classics C5 kit with 12.7” rotors,
AFX spindles
Global West upper and lower control arms
QA1 Double adjustable coil overs
The Right Stuff Detailing stainless brake lines
Hydroboost unit
ATS Lee blueprinted steering box
Baer Trackers
New Moog inner tie rods, pitman arm and idler arm

Thanks to Tyler at ATS for answering all my questions and setting me up with the goods.

New Big block heater core cover, restored heater box, new heater fan etc.

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/FrontSuspension020.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/FrontSuspension021.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/FrontSuspension022.jpg

More front suspension pictures:
http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/

Hmm, now I have to get new wheels and tires to fit the big brakes.

Since I am going to have to buy new wheels anyways might as well mini-tub the car so I only have to buy wheels/tires once.

That part of the project can be found here and was done up as a mini-tub guide:
http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?p=427886


but here is some before and after shots:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/Mini-Tub/MiniTub001.jpg

after: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/Mini-Tub/LizardSkin/LizardSkin026.jpg

[BBC69Camaro]

Now to make the rear suspension match the front:

Old axle (2.72 open 10 bolt with mono-perches):
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/RearSuspension014.jpg

New Moser with 3.73 gears, 33-spline 1350 yoke, painted with Por-15 and their chassis black:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/RearSuspension022.jpg

Starting the G-Bar install:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/RearSuspension023.jpg

Bolts are in:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/RearSuspension025.jpg

[BBC69Camaro]

Going to weld the entire sucker in once everything is confirmed straight and true. I really like the G-Bar of all the stuff I have installed this was very easy and straight forward to install the only hiccup so far was a bolt hole in the rear of the bar that there isn’t a good way to drill a hole or start the threads:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/RearSuspension026.jpg

due to the trunk being in the way (maybe particular to a 69, I dunno). Since in the end it is going to be all welded up, it really doesn’t matter.


Axle housing / diff and shocks going on:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/RearSuspension029.jpg

Completed:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/RearSuspension035.jpg

Also went with a Rick’s notched stainless tank, that is baffled and sumped.


More pictures can be found here:
http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/

Thanks to Frank and Prodigy for helping answer my questions and hooking me up with the right parts!

Next up in the project (when I get back in school) is putting brake lines and fuel lines in and then I can drop the motor in. Very much looking forward to that. Then I am going to rewire the entire car with a AAW kit, and replace the old vacuum RS headlights with a DSE electric kit, get new head lights and running lights as well as rear taillights. All new Stewart Warner gauges will be installed as well. Everything electrical in the car will be in tip top shape.

[GHOSTDANCER]

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :cheers:

[waynieZ]

I can't wait to see more.

[tones2SS]

AWESOME build. Thanks for sharing the pics.
Kinda the same way I want to do my build as well. Sort of like a restomod.
GOOD LUCK & keep the pics coming.:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :cheers:

[bigtyme1]

Looking great, what tran's are you running? Also did you do the brakes line yourself or are they prebent?

[BBC69Camaro]

Thanks for all the compliments. Yeah I think Resto-Mod applies.

Trans is currently a 700R4, but I have plans to build a 4L60E/4L80E and go with Twist machine paddle shifters.

Brake lines and fuel lines are pre-bent stainless from The Right Stuff Detailing (http://www.rightstuffdetailing.com/about_us.htm)

[waynieZ]

Awesome job on the engine and sub frame. How did you like the brake lines for fit? What coil overs did you use?

[BBC69Camaro]

Awesome job on the engine and sub frame. How did you like the brake lines for fit? What coil overs did you use?

Brakes lines still need to go in. Coil overs are QA1 double adjustables in the front and rear.

[tones2SS]

Please keep us updated with progress pics.
GOOD JOB!!:thumbsup:

[RT66MOTORSPORTS]

Seems like a nice project overall.

[BBC69Camaro]

Awesome job on the engine and sub frame. How did you like the brake lines for fit?

Brake lines are in and fit top notch. I have to do some custom bending to get them to line up for the hydro boost but that was expected.

[BBC69Camaro]

Some quick updates:

Been chasing my tail trying to wrap up all the little things:

Working on mocking up fuel lines - still in progress need to get the engine in and mockup the exhaust really to finish this now, rear/parking brakes, proportioning valve etc.
Did a few more tests on my motor. Hooked it up to an engine scope with a sniffer, did a power balance test (very consistent drop 50 rpm per cylinder), and some fine tuning of the idle circuit (max vacuum/rpm, min CO while keeping HC from going up).
Putting back together my front clip (still had the inner fender kind of out).
Put the trunk lid and springs back on.
Started taking the motor off the stand getting ready to drop it in.
Decided on an Aeromotive Street Rod pump, filters (100 before and 10 after), check valve and fuel cooler (just showed up from Summit)


Still need to dyno the 700R4 that the car came with, see what state it is in. If it is okay, I'll try to get the car running with the 700R4 until I can build my 4L80E in the transmission class in the spring. Otherwise I'll wait until next summer to get the car running if the 700R4 is shot. Still got to redo all the electrical (and gauges) in the entire car so I'll have something to do in any event.


Here is a couple pics of the car ready for the engine:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Exterior/ReadyForEngine001.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Exterior/ReadyForEngine003.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Exterior/ReadyForEngine006.jpg

I have the car set at minimum ride height right now. I'll see where it sits with the motor and clip on and how much clearance I have. Right now its nice and low in the rear, should be interesting.

New Wheels should be coming late next week. Should have a nice picture of the engine in with new wheels soon :jump:

[jbutlr]

What wheels did you decide to go with? Did you ever make it over to the Rushforth booth at the "cruise for a cure?"

[BBC69Camaro]

What wheels did you decide to go with? Did you ever make it over to the Rushforth booth at the "cruise for a cure?"

Oh yeah I did. Was very nice talking with Jason and Jon. After seeing the Rushforths even my wife was saying go with the Rushforths. How could I refuse my wife :D

Went with Strutters in 17x8 for the front 17x12 in the rear, hidden hardware, polished lip, smoked titanium centers (such a sweet finish), and Michelin PS/2 245/45/17 and 335/35/17s in the rear. Jon says I should be able to pick them up late next week, can't wait!

[jbutlr]

Oh, I did not know that was you. I think Jason was showing you what the lip for your rears would look like on my Camaro. I was hiding in the back trying to sneak in a few:cheers:. You are going to be real happy with your choice. The quality of the Rushforth line is top notch. Cant wait to see pics.:thumbsup:

[DriverzInc]

Just read the entire build thread for the first time. Sweet work here man. It's a rough categorical world when a mini-tubbed camaro with a g-bar rear, Global west uppers and lowers, and QA1's with 17x13 rear wheels is stuffed into a Resto-Mod category.
I for one think its all a matter of opinion. Anyway....

Thanks again Ed for choosing our wheel brand. We're working hard to finish yours up by the 31st. I'll be in touch as soon as they are ready to go! :thumbsup:

If for some reason the wheel build goes into SEMA week, someone will still be at the shop, holding down fort, and we'll get you squared away just as soon as the wheels can be picked up. We'll talk late next week. Thanks for keeping us updated on your car, and keep up the good work! :lateral:

[waynieZ]

Real nice build. I know you'll like the wheels. I love mine.

[BBC69Camaro]

Oh, I did not know that was you. I think Jason was showing you what the lip for your rears would look like on my Camaro. I was hiding in the back trying to sneak in a few:cheers:.

I didn't know that was your car! I'm surprised how deep the lips were on a non-tubbed car. Sweet looking car you have there :thumbsup:

...It's a rough categorical world when a mini-tubbed camaro with a g-bar rear, Global west uppers and lowers, and QA1's with 17x13 rear wheels is stuffed into a Resto-Mod category...

I chose Resto-Mod because of trying for a external sleeper look. It is probably more pro-touring (especially with the Rushforths) than not (big block). The current plan is to try to keep as much stock looking from the outside as possible (thou I seem to be deviating from that some). Planning on redoing the interior in a completely stock form (except for some updated modern gauges and a paddle shifter).

We're working hard to finish yours up by the 31st. I'll be in touch as soon as they are ready to go!

If for some reason the wheel build goes into SEMA week, someone will still be at the shop, holding down fort, and we'll get you squared away just as soon as the wheels can be picked up. We'll talk late next week. Thanks for keeping us updated on your car, and keep up the good work! :lateral:

Thanks for the compliments and for being so flexible in getting the wheels out sooner, I know you guys must be busy before SEMA. :hail:

Really looking forward to getting a picture of the Rushforths on the car with the engine in and the front clip still off. I think I might just try to submit that picture to a few magazines. :unibrow:


Real nice build. I know you'll like the wheels. I love mine.

Thanks, I'm sure I will too, seeing them in person at Cruise for the Cure got rid of any doubt.

[BBC69Camaro]

Quick update - Hooked my 700R4 that came with the car to the trans dyno:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/TransDyno001.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/TransDyno007.jpg

All the pressures are within spec, engine shifts and downshifts; trans is in pretty good shape (least until it takes some big block torque). Going to put a filter in it and its needs a pan gasket bad.

Trans ready for the engine:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall002.jpg

Trans should work until I can build/afford something else (current plans are to build a 4L80E with paddle shifters).


Pulled the engine off the stand:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall007.jpg

Put the beater Chinese valve covers back on that I couldn't get to seal (I do like the Chevy Orange).

Bolted up to the trans:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall013.jpg

Went to try to bolt up the torque converter to the engine flex-plate, found out that the big block flex plate won't mount to the 700R4 torque converter. I guess GM makes a conversion flex-plate but its a special order and will take a few days to arrive.

Now I'm stuck, waiting on brakes, wheels and a flex-plate. Ah the little things of getting a project on the road. Oh well time to drive in axle seals, and adjust hood and trunk a bit while I wait.

[waynieZ]

It looks good your getting close.

[BBC69Camaro]

It looks good your getting close.

Thanks. I so wanted to drop that sucker in today. I'm in the "git it done" (tm) mode.

[BBC69Camaro]

Quick update. The 700R4 I have is a 27 spline unit, looks like from a 4/6 cylinder. Not even really sure why the bell-housing bolts up (the guts from a 4 cylinder in a 8 cylinder case / spare parts transmission maybe?). Not much point in trying to get the torque converter to bolt up as I'd probably break it after getting on it a time or two.

I had hoped maybe to build a transmission in the next transmission class but the class time is in the afternoon when I work. So either I wait an entire another year or I need to buy a transmission.

Currently looking the feasibility of a Twist machine 4L65E RR or perhaps a 4L80E for 800 ft/lbs setup.

Here are some pics:

Put the anti-squeek kit in for the gas tank straps (and between body and tank):
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/GasTank.jpg

Boy these suckers are tight to fit in, used some 3M weather strip adhesive to hold things in place and a lot of elbow grease to wrestle the straps on enough to get the retaining nut on.

Motor going in:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall021.jpg

Dropped in:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall023.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall024.jpg

Valiant shown in background getting a new 6 cylinder motor - that red thing shown to the left. Its a nice car, the suspension and brakes have been redone as well (stock). Not my car; just another shop project.

Got some issues with oil pan to cross-member clearance. Oil pan is resting on the cross-member. Raised the motor and put a 1/2 piece of plywood down to smush the pan a bit, that got me about 1/8" clearance, really hoping for 1/4".

So going to raise the motor and beat the dickens out of the bottom of the pan. Also realized I should have laid the headers in as they really don't want to fit especially on the drivers side.

[tones2SS]

Looking good.
Hope you get your problems resolved.:thumbsup:

[BBC69Camaro]

Thanks.

Fixed the oil pan clearance issue today (I think) have about 1/4-1/2 of clearance now.

Went to try to put on the transmission cross-member but the 700R4 is back about 2-3 inches and I can't get the cross member to bolt up to the sub-frame. Not really planning on using this trans so not sweating this too much.

Put the headers in:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall029.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall026.jpg

Odd part is I changed my frame and engine mounts out to big block, and even went with a slimmer Lee 670 steering box and the Hooker headers that Holly recommended should fit without taking a beating.

Called Holly and said not to use any heat due to the ceramic coating. Well time to pull out the BF hammer.

[tones2SS]

Looking good.:thumbsup:
A little tight though??
How did you get the oil pan to clear?

[BBC69Camaro]

Looking good.:thumbsup:
A little tight though??
How did you get the oil pan to clear?

Yeah its resting on the header, can't get the motor mount bolts in.

On the pan I kept lowering the motor onto a piece of plywood placed on the frame. I also jacked up the transmission which squeezed the oil pan together with the cross member.

[andrewmp6]

I'm not a huge camaro fan but i like yours you kept it all clean and simple keep up the good work.

[BBC69Camaro]

I'm not a huge camaro fan but i like yours you kept it all clean and simple keep up the good work.

Thanks!


----------

Had to beat on the headers in three different places to get it to sit all the way on the mounts so that I could get bolts in them:

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall032.jpg

Least now it fits (more than 1/4 clearance) and I have the mount bolts in. Now to figure out the transmission and assembly moving forward.

[BBC69Camaro]

Special thanks to Jon at Driverzinc for setting me up with Rushforth Strutters and Michellin Pilot Sport 2s - 245/45/17 on 17x8 in the front and 335/35/17 on 17x12s in the rear. Hidden hardware, polished lip and their now famous Titanium powder coat over a brushed center:
http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Wheels/Wheels013.jpg

Hard to see the powder coated centers from the pictures but it is a nice and subtle effect (next to the polished lip), really like the look:
http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Wheels/Wheels020.jpg

I love that from the side you can't really see the wide tires and that the lip doesn't give them away. But from a different angle the size of the tires pops out at you:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall038.jpg

Now I got the engine mostly in, and my wheels and tires, the car is actually looking like a hot rod. Really excited all coming together:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall041.jpg
http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Wheels/Wheels029.jpg

-------

On another note, figured out what I am going to do for a trans, talked to Steve at Twist Machine and Mark at Bowler transmissions (both very nice and put up with all my questions). Ordered a 4L65E-RR package with paddle shifters. Went with the 65 instead of an 80 since Mark told me they would upgrade me to the 80 if I broke the 65, can't beat that kind of guarantee.

Next up, gotta figure out my power steering pulley, ends up March Performance 2 groove power steering pulley doesn't work with their bracket, got to order a 1 groove pulley (otherwise can't adjust the tension) Going to try to get all the engine related fitment fixed then put the front clip back on.

[BBC69Camaro]

Slowly working through all the things that don't fit.

Put the front clip back on:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall051.jpg

Still need to play with the front clip a bit to get the gaps better. Least now I have an engine bay:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall050.jpg

Now to put the car on the alignment rack and do a basic alignment to get it at least close.

Next up fuel lines, rear brake lines, gauges and all the electrical (along with battery in trunk and electrical head light door conversion). Getting exciting, so close.

[tones2SS]

LOOKS GOOD ED!!!
She's coming along very well. GOOD JOB!:hail:

[rwhite692]

Great progress, Ed. Love the wheels.:thumbsup:

[waynieZ]

Looking good ! When your done give the address to the shop and I'll send you mine to put back together. lol Your getting close now.

[BBC69Camaro]

Thanks for all the compliments.

Another update -

Car is now officially back together and is a roller. Even has a working parking brake:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall055.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall052.jpg


Just some random good pics:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall057.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall058.jpg

Car has some minor front end damage (guy I bought it from said a truck backed into it). Needs a new grill, upper and lower valances at least. But I'll worry about that when I do paint and body. Must get it on the road and drive it :machine:

[waynieZ]

Looking good your moving along pretty well Keep us posted.
Wayne

[tones2SS]

AWESOME!!!
Enjoy that bad boy!:thumbsup: :cheers:

[BBC69Camaro]

Haven't done an update in a while so here it is:

Car made PHR's under construction section here is a post about it here:
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=17547

Told my instructor who told the school's PR department which ended up doing a couple stories one in the tech bulletin that goes out to all the JCs with Tech schools and the local paper. Never thought there would be so much interest. But I guess a computer guy going to school and doing this while he is learning is a story of some interest. Been pretty stoked about it.

Towed the car out of the College shop and home (long story).

I been working with Steve and Twist Machine and Bowler Transmissions to hook me up with a 4L65E-RR package with paddle shifters (since my old trans won't do):

New Trans Painted with Por-15 and their Chassis Black:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/th_Transmission016sm.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission016sm.jpg)

I gotta say working with Steve was amazing. He made a custom adapter for me so I could run a wheel that keeps with my stock interior:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/IMG_0189.jpg

Even better looking in person. Steering wheel is a Grant wheel made for a Corvette (since you can't run a deep dish with the paddle shifters). I can't wait to bolt this thing up. Got a nice crossmember from GForce to go with the trans as well. My hat is off to Steve for providing such great products and services!


Since the car is now home I decided to do some of the things I had been putting off at the shop at school. I hadn't painted my trunk since mini-tubbing and it has some rust issues I need to address. So I have been stripping off all the paint (and some bondo :( ) out of the trunk. Looks like they used a bunch of bondo to cover up some rust problems in the trunk.

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Trunk/th_Trunk004.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Trunk/?action=view&current=Trunk004.jpg)

Got most of the paint, undercoating and rust off now so I can see what I am dealing with:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Trunk/th_Trunk007.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Trunk/?action=view&current=Trunk007.jpg)

Not certain of what I am going to do yet. Probably need a new trunk pan if I was going to do the fix the right way. Just I want to get the car on the road and metal work seems to take me forever to do. Thinking about using of the Por-15 products to fill in the rust holes and then paint up the trunk with Por-15 then splatter paint it and seal it.

Along with doing the same to the interior floor boards as well (which are in actually very good shape (no rust or bondo). Then once all that is done using Second Skin's Damplifier pro and insulate sound proof the bottom of the car. I also have a bunch of Lizard skin left I figure I'll use in the doors and hard to reach areas of the interior.

Also rolled my rear fender lips on both sides as I need to do that as one side was a bit close for my liking (don't have pics yet).

Been very busy with the holidays and such (built an entertainment system for my folks as my brothers and I went in and bought them a nice big screen LCD TV for Christmas). Hopefully should be able to pick up some steam and get the Trans in and get the interior painted up and insulated.

[BBC69Camaro]

Well time for a big update.

Had the car towed back into the College shop for a winter class. The tow truck driver ended up dumping my car into my planter (drive way is really steep). Had told him that I only had a parking brake and that we needed to go slow due to the steep driveway. But he was in too much of a hurry and didn't listen. Looks like the parking brake won't hold the car on that steep an angle. Going to need to make sure I get at least the driveshaft in before towing back home again. I was lucky another 6" and it would have dropped 6 feet into my neighbor's front yard. Ended up putting a small gouge in my new wheels thou on the driver's front side. Talked to Jon at Driver's inc about getting it fixed he thought that they could make it look as good as new.

Time to install the trans:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/th_Transmission035.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission035.jpg)

Ends up thou that the flexplate that eagle gave me is some odd one that only has one bolt pattern (11.50") instead of a dual bolt pattern.
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/th_Transmission017.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission017.jpg)

If I was going to run this bolt pattern it would require a lot of changes to the Bowler/Twist Machine setup. Eagle wasn't much help as they were not sure why the flexplate only had one pattern on it (claimed it should have had two) and didn't know the balance weight on the flexplate. Finally after a lot of help from Steve and Twist machine I bought a TCI one.
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/th_Transmission033.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission033.jpg)

Just to be certain both flexplates had the same counterweight (the TCI one was almost a pound heavier), I put both flexplates on a manual tire balancer and they both had the same out of balance weight within 0.1oz. One problem solved.

Started mocking up and installing the trans wiring along with Fast's A/F meter and dual wide band O2 sensors. Trying for a really nice clean install so that its not noticeable. Drilled a second hole so I could route everything (too much wiring to go through the stock single hole). Tried to offset it the same least give it some symmetry:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/th_Transmission047.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission047.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/th_Transmission046.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission046.jpg)

[BBC69Camaro]

Had to clearance the trans tunnel a bit in a few places (around the accumulator pump and on the Passenger's O2 sensor. So far really happy with the install. Unless you are really looking for it, none of the wiring or O2 sensors should be visible:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/th_Transmission051.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission051.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/th_Transmission048.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission048.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/th_Transmission049.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission049.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/th_Transmission050.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission050.jpg)

[BBC69Camaro]

Installed the Shiftworks 4 speed kit with new dent and cover:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/th_Transmission038.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission038.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/th_Transmission036.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission036.jpg)

Really fits with my "stock" / "sleeper" theme. Can now at least put the trans in all gears now properly.

Also ordered a Mark Williams 3" Chromoly drive-shaft. Actually received it, but it seems that the Bowler trans has a heavy duty output shaft. The OD of the spines is the same as the shaft OD rather than being raised.

What this meant that the Trans yoke wouldn't fit all the way in and prevented me from installing the driveshaft. After talking with Travis at Mark Williams we were able to figure out what was going on.
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/th_OutputShaft001.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=OutputShaft001.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/th_OutputShaft003.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=OutputShaft003.jpg)

And they were kind enough to offer to counter-bore the yoke about 5/8" and rebalance to get it to fit. So waiting on the return of the driveshaft to install it.

Installed my sub-frame connectors. Really needed them in so I could continue with fuel line routing:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/th_Sub-FrameConnectors004.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/?action=view&current=Sub-FrameConnectors004.jpg)

[BBC69Camaro]

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/th_Sub-FrameConnectors005.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/?action=view&current=Sub-FrameConnectors005.jpg)

Ended up TiG welding in the rears completely but on the fronts, I drilled the holes to bolt them up but then tacking them on the bottom and top on each side (4 tacks per sub-frame connector side).
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/th_Sub-FrameConnectors003.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/?action=view&current=Sub-FrameConnectors003.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/th_Sub-FrameConnectors008.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/?action=view&current=Sub-FrameConnectors008.jpg)

Should be pretty solid, but if I ever need to pull the front sub-frame should be able to, just have to grind down a few welds.

Looks like the exhaust has some fitment problems as well. Need to trim the passenger sides' collector reducer about 1" so that the exhaust runs straight along the centerline of the car. Also going to need to trim the X-Pipes about 9" so that I can properly fit the mufflers in.

Mocking up the rear brake lines and tabs, just need to weld those in now.

Finished mocking up the fuel line and cooler lines for the oil cooler and trans cooler. Bought all my AN fittings (damn they were expensive). Going to run a combination of hardlines and flexline. Hoping to run hardline where ever I can and then use the flexline to allow components to move around when they need to or to allow disassembly as needed (to change fuel filters for example or to isolate the fuel pump).

Bought all the hardlines and flex line, benders, flaring and cutting tools. Now it is just a matter of going to town and getting it done. Bending the hardlines to actually where it seems to be the biggest challenge for me. Was practicing flaring tubing and that seems straight forward enough, its just getting the hardline bends correct, the seamless annealed stainless especially in 5/8 isn't cheap or easy to bend.


Mocked up my Ron Davis radiator:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/th_EngineInstall069.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/?action=view&current=EngineInstall069.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/th_EngineInstall070.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/?action=view&current=EngineInstall070.jpg)

Also have the March Performance v-belt pulley system with a long water pump. Always heard some people had trouble with this. There is a nub on the fan motors on the Driver's side fan it has next to no clearance with the power steering pulley nut. I just need about 1/8 to 1/4 more clearance. I used well nuts to mount the radiator on the driver's side. Thinking of replacing those with some really thin rubber washers. Also I might be able to get a bit more clearance by loosening the fan shroud and pushing it in a bit further. Also a different nut on the power steering.

Also it might be possible to rotate the fan or the fan motor 180* to get this nub out of the way. W/o the nub there is a good 1/2 clearance.


I wonder if I should rename my project to "Nothing Fits", lol.

Next steps get the driveshaft back and in, get the exhaust and radiator to fit. Then going to fab up some brackets to hold the trans and oil coolers in front of the radiator.

[BBC69Camaro]

Update: Been busy trying to get everything to fit. Got the drive shaft back from Mark Williams fits like a glove now.

I then started on mocking up and bending all the hardline tubing for my fuel system. I am using a Ricks stainless notched, baffled, sumped tank. I used -10 AN fittings coming out of the tank (was a pain routing them straight up for the nice clean look) and going to an Aeromotive 100 micron filter with a shutoff valve. This goes into their Street Rod pump and down to -8. The pump and filter are held by a some custom brackets so that they can move but isolated from the body by rubber grommits (need to take a better pic). This is then routed via 1/2 hardline to the lower rocker panel near the front of the passenger's side into a -10 BG plate and fin type cooler. This goes into a -10 Aeromotive 10 micron filter and into a Drainback valve then to -8 Earl's braided hose up to the regulator. The regulator then splits into 2 -6 hoses each feeding a side of the Carb. The return is plumbed similar. -8 Braided hose from the regulator to the framerail, then 1/2 hardline all the way back to the tank where it opens up to 5/8 hardline for the bends to make it around and back into the tank. Here are some pics:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/th_FuelSystem004.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/?action=view&current=FuelSystem004.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/th_FuelSystem024.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/?action=view&current=FuelSystem024.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/th_FuelSystem018.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/?action=view&current=FuelSystem018.jpg)

[BBC69Camaro]

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/th_FuelSystem009.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/?action=view&current=FuelSystem009.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/th_FuelSystem017.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/?action=view&current=FuelSystem017.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/th_FuelSystem010.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/?action=view&current=FuelSystem010.jpg)

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/th_FuelSystem025.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/?action=view&current=FuelSystem025.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/th_FuelSystem026.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/?action=view&current=FuelSystem026.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/th_FuelSystem029.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/?action=view&current=FuelSystem029.jpg)

All the hard and flex line are held in place by coated Adel clamps so that nothing will chaff. The areas where the hoses or hardlines could run are covered by Tiagon tubing. Had to fabricate a number of custom brackets. Used a bunch of stainless button head allens for a nice look. Made a custom screen over the fuel cooler to keep debris from impacting it.

[BBC69Camaro]

Installed heater and radiator hoses. Went up one size in air filter as well (measured had an extra 1" of space so it just fits). Still have a bit of work to do in trimming and gotta do something about the brass fittings :D Engine Bay now:

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/th_EngineInstall074.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/?action=view&current=EngineInstall074.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/th_EngineInstall075.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/?action=view&current=EngineInstall075.jpg)


Oil Cooler Lines made from 5/8 stainless annealed seamless tubing (all the hardlines of various sizes). They were a real pain getting 5/8 line to fit and bent around the kickout in my pan. Even still I have to run an external oil filter because I cannot take the oil filter off with the oil cooler lines the filter runs into either the lines, the kickout in the pan or the headers.

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/th_CoolingSystem001.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/?action=view&current=CoolingSystem001.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/th_CoolingSystem002.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/?action=view&current=CoolingSystem002.jpg)

Trans cooler lines are even more of a pain especially the upper one. No way to actually tighten down the fitting can only barely get a finger in there. Also very little space between the header and the lines so put some of the Earl's spark plug wire silicon covers.

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/th_CoolingSystem004.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/?action=view&current=CoolingSystem004.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/th_CoolingSystem003.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/?action=view&current=CoolingSystem003.jpg)

[BBC69Camaro]

Installed a belly pan
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/th_EngineInstall080.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/?action=view&current=EngineInstall080.jpg) http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/th_EngineInstall081-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/?action=view&current=EngineInstall081-1.jpg)

Now trying to figure out the plumbing for the oil thermostat and the trans/oil coolers. I gotta say this would be a lot simplier if I didn't have an RS:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/th_CoolingSystem005.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/?action=view&current=CoolingSystem005.jpg)

[BBC69Camaro]

A word on the hardline and flex line. I found that the Rigid flaring tool to be a great tool for doing the 37* flares needed for the AN fittings.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/213XJABPG5L._SL500_AA210_.jpg

Imperial Eastman benders worked well for me, the 5/8 bender is kind of scary, leaning so much weight on it to bend the 5/8 tubing.

I cut all the hardline with a rotary tubing cutter. Then filled down the end smooth, countersunk the end, then used a deburring tool with 80 grit to smooth the inside and outside of the tubing, followed up with some 400 grit emery cloth to get everything really smooth. If it was rough to the touch I made it smooth. I found if I did that everytime I rarely had an cracks in my flares.

I used all Jegs black AN fittings which seem to be of good quality but considerably cheaper than say Earl's. I did use the expensive stainless flexible lines (Perform-o-flex). Also the Summit hose cutters worked really well. Koul tools really helped for the smaller lines (-6 and -4 for the radiator overflow).

http://www.frontlinegraphics.com/koultools/images/KoulTools.jpg
http://www.koultools.com/

I just don't have the patience to get all the wires in for the smaller hoses. With Koul tools it was super easy to start them.

[GvEman]

Realy nice project! Just love those rims to your blue collor!

[BBC69Camaro]

Realy nice project! Just love those rims to your blue collor!

Thanks, yeah I thought the smoked titanium really goes well with the blue.

[BBC69Camaro]

Making custom brackets and stuff is fun. Very time consuming but fun. What is about making a custom bracket that no one will probably ever see but you still have to make it look good?

Case in point I needed to make a bracket to hold my trans and oil coolers in place. It needed to go across the front of the radiator across the support. I took some aluminum channel 1-1/2 wide by about 32" long:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/CoolingSystem007.jpg

After mocking it up, drilling the mounting holes in it I drilled some vent holes in it so it wouldn't block too much air coming across the radiator and the coolers. Then powder coated it black (sorry forgot to take a pic of it not mounted):
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/CoolingSystem011.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/CoolingSystem009.jpg

Talk about just barely fitting. Between the center latch support and the RS doors and the cooler fittings I was just barely able to get everything to clear when the RS doors are all the way open (you non-RS folks have it easy :D )

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/CoolingSystem012.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/CoolingSystem015.jpg

The trans cooler isn't positioned perfectly (some of the radiator support blocks it) but it was as close to the center support as possible and far enough from the RS door as it could be. I found if I positioned the cooler just right I could get the back side of the door to give me a bit more clearance for the fittings. Hopefully with the top and bottom sealed up I should get some pretty good air flow through the coolers and radiator.

I have one of those panels that closes out the space between the radiator support and the front valance so after it is buttoned up no one will be able to see all this:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/CoolingSystem014.jpg

But it was still very fun making that bracket, I can however peek through the grill from time to time:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/CoolingSystem017.jpg

[tones2SS]

Looking good.:thumbsup:

[waynieZ]

It looks good.

[BBC69Camaro]

Thanks guys :)

[gearhead1186]

Love the wheels and belly pan..:thumbsup:

[BBC69Camaro]

Love the wheels and belly pan..:thumbsup:

Thanks Mike.




Installed a top closeout panel (from Undercover innovations Derel was kind of enough to add a ball mill option on their new two piece panels, nice guy to deal with):
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall084.jpg

Been routing brake lines, had to swap out some rear flex lines as they were rubbing on one of the axle tabs for the G-Bar.

Also installed a line lock here is some pics:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall087.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall085.jpg

Still have some minor adjustment/shortening of the brake lines to get them away from the headers a bit.

Bracket is made out of 1/8" thick steel that was polished (can't believe I spent the time to do that) and then powder coated clear. My first time trying the clear and I guess the heat discolored the clear or the steel a bit, now has a bronze tint to it, but I think looks interesting.

[BBC69Camaro]

Still messing with brakes. I found a slight drag on the rear rotors (when trying to set the parking brake). For kicks decided to measure the run out. Found 0.010" (Drv) to 0.015" (pass) runout along the rotor. Removing the rotor I found 0.005" runout on both axles.

Called Moser and the tech said up to 0.008 was within tolerance. Trying to figure out if I should cut the rotors on the car to true them. Trying to get ahold of Noah at Touring-classics to see what he thinks.

For comparison the fronts had less than 0.001 run-out (gauge barely moved).


Welded on my rear brake tabs. Also began installing my Shrifter and new Steering wheel. Decided to replace my turn signal switch while I had things apart. Interesting that the local GM dealer stocked the item (ouch $75).

[patriotformula]

Car looks great man... I gotta say that is my favorite color for a 69 Camaro... BTW what kind of school are you working on this at?

[Spiffav8]

Ed,

I just read all 7 pages. Great work and awesome thread! I really like the sleeper idea and I think the broken radio antenna seals it....so keep it!

Good job buddy!! :thumbsup:

[BBC69Camaro]

Car looks great man... I gotta say that is my favorite color for a 69 Camaro... BTW what kind of school are you working on this at?

Thanks. Working on my car at a local Junior College while taking automotive classes. They have a great automotive program with pretty awesome teachers most of whom are muscle car fanatics as well :yes:


Ed,

I just read all 7 pages. Great work and awesome thread! I really like the sleeper idea and I think the broken radio antenna seals it....so keep it!

Good job buddy!! :thumbsup:

Thanks a lot. Hmm I just bought a replacement antenna (haven't put it in yet, but maybe you have a an idea.


----

On another note was able to get my rear rotor runout down to 0.001 from 0.010-15. Learnt how to use a on-car brake lathe and trued my rotors to the axles. Much better feel as the rear wheel rotates now. I'm stoked.

[70rs]

Wow, I just read the whole build thread. I really like the car and also have a TON of respect for you to just dive in and go for it. To put yourself into school and turn out such a nice job is so cool! It's been a motivator for me. Thanks for sharing all of your experiences on this!:cheers:
Keep the updates coming please.

PS Those wheel are sweet! I just about cried when I read about the tow truck driver screwing the pooch and causing damage.

[BBC69Camaro]

Wow, I just read the whole build thread. I really like the car and also have a TON of respect for you to just dive in and go for it. To put yourself into school and turn out such a nice job is so cool! It's been a motivator for me. Thanks for sharing all of your experiences on this!:cheers:
Keep the updates coming please.

PS Those wheel are sweet! I just about cried when I read about the tow truck driver screwing the pooch and causing damage.

Thanks, a lot.

Yeah the feeling watching that happen to your car was the worst sinking feeling. All that hard work and to think in a matter of moments could be wiped out. The worst feeling ever. I look back and think how much worse it could have been and count my blessings.

[wedged]

Nice build. Sorry to hear about the tow truck incident. I have a strong feeling you'll be wanting a different carb at some point. What you've got will be "ok" if you get into messing with the jetting and air bleeds to dial it in. I think you are leaving a lot of power untapped. I'd be looking at something along the lines of 1000 cfm with annular boosters and replaceable air bleeds. Put that wideband to good use !

[BBC69Camaro]

Nice build. Sorry to hear about the tow truck incident. I have a strong feeling you'll be wanting a different carb at some point. What you've got will be "ok" if you get into messing with the jetting and air bleeds to dial it in. I think you are leaving a lot of power untapped. I'd be looking at something along the lines of 1000 cfm with annular boosters and replaceable air bleeds. Put that wideband to good use !

Thanks.

Yeah in hindsight I think I might have undercarbbed a bit, 870+ might have been a better choice. My plans are to eventually switch to a EFI setup so I am not too worried. I'll have a bit more throttle response and low end give up some on the top for now.

[Vegas69]

That's what you say now. :D

[BBC69Camaro]

Well a bunch of changes:

Did my own alignment:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Alignment006.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Alignment008.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Alignment010.jpg

Got nearly spot-on settings for Camber (-0.5* and Toe In 1/16"), had caster nearly spot on (4.0/4.5*) but then I think something went bonkers with the machine (or something shifted on my frame). All I could get was 2.0* on pass after a minor tweak to toe. Resetting the machine and recalibrating didn't do anything. I had limited time so I just looked as this being a rough alignment I'll have to do another one later once the car is on the road a bit.

Exhaust is in, currently just turned down at the axles:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall_Exhaust003.jpg

Had to make a custom piece to adjust for one header (/shakes fist at Hooker Headers) pointing down slightly throwing everything off
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall_Exhaust002.jpg

Not too pretty but fixes the problem completely and the exhaust fits nice.

Still having a problem bleeding rear brakes but had to cut troubleshooting short. Because had to get the car towed home again from the Auto shop at school.

Its a long story but basically the Dean kicked me out. He had a lot of trouble with combining technology schools in a project (Welding, Machining, Engine, Brakes, Suspension). Plus does not like "restoration projects" at all (thou seems to have a lot less objections to imports or faculty member's cars doing the same thing). One would think he would encourage students to push the envelope like the teachers there do but he was very unsupportive. So much so, even threatening to just push the car out on a major street or have towed away.

So anyways the car got towed home but again, but cracked my new front spoiler in two this time, no other damage at least. :rolleyes:

Here is a couple picks right before towing home -

Engine compartment really coming together (can you spot the MSD ignition box in the pic?):
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall090.jpg

Car ready to tow home:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/EngineInstall093.jpg

A lot of garage reorganization over the last couple weeks as well as new tools :) I'm surprised how many tools I was used to having access to all the time. Just trying to fill in the gaps so I can keep moving forward.

Took my front grill off. Next step is to try to plumb in the Hydroboost, power steering and cooler. The grill is cracked and the upper valance has damage and is bent where a truck backed into it (bought it that way).
Also the lower running light valance is all bent as well, tried straightening it with a come-along but it is still all tweaked. Thinking of just replacing all three major (upper, lower and grill) pieces since Classic Industries still has their 20% off sale going on and its mostly apart.

Also started mocking up the DSE RS electric conversion. While doing so figured out the old RS doors are nearly rusted out, got to replace those as well.

I figure if I can get the power steering taken car of and the front end pieces replaced that will wrap up pretty much everything non-electrical / interior and then I can concentrate on insulating the interior and installing all the new electrical goodies.

[Biggswole]

Wow...you have done a great job so far....keep up the good work and progress pics.

[BBC71Nova]

Looking good!

[tones2SS]

Looks awesome Ed.
Have you had a chance to drive her yet? Looks like a nice car.:cheers:

[BBC69Camaro]

Thanks for all the nice comments.


Have you had a chance to drive her yet?

Not since redoing everything. Still got to do electrical (have a AAW Classic update kit to put in)

[Vegas69]

Ed, you got that baby running yet?

[BBC69Camaro]

Sorry for not updating sooner. Progress has been at a snail's pace. Had to move my parents into a assisted living place, dad in an out of the hospital, work busy. When the car was at school, I was probably able to work on it 4-5 hours a day 5 days a week. Now I'm lucky if I do 4 hours in a week (if that).

I did however manage to finish installing the exhaust and hangers (still just dumped before rear axle).

Started test fitting some 6.5" speakers in the rear package tray (felt like fiddling that day).

Rebuilt the entire RS door mechanisms with new parts (the existing ones all the bushings were shot and a lot of rusty parts).

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/CoolingSystem031.jpg

Routed all the power steering hoses and installed a power steering cooler (pictured above between oil and trans coolers):
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/HoseRouting002.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/HoseRouting003.jpg

Routed P/S return on the subframe (with tiagon tubing over the braided line) back to the P/S pump. (very tight under there with those big -10 hoses).

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/HoseRouting004.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/HoseRouting005.jpg

Installed Amsoil's bypass oil filter system kit. Its a nice kit came with mostly everything you needed. I had to buy a few more fittings and extra hose to route it as I wanted. Ended up being a pain to route the hoses around my oil pan and headers (not Amsoil's issue), but with some extra fittings and hose was able to get it done.

I really like the nice clean look under the hood:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/HoseRouting.jpg

Maybe in the future if I need it I'll do some type of oil priming plus reserve (ala Canton).

Took most of the paint off the trunk, starting mocking up rear battery installation, decided to switch from a Moroso battery box to a Optima Battery with hold down. Just seemed easier to for cable routing. Looked like to me with the battery box, I'd almost have to permanently install the battery (least with the 0000 cables I want to run).

Currently working on the trunk and battery along with perhaps a rear firewall between the trunk and passenger compartment. Trying to figure out how the best way to route the battery cables through the firewall w/o having to buy a expensive crimper for this one use (since I want to run the 0000ga starter and ground).

Thinking of bolting on and sealing the firewall, looks like attaching a single piece from the trunk side to the package tray divider might be the easiest way to close it off. Looking for a non-permanent solution (rather than welding it up).

[waynieZ]

Its nice to see some updates, Keep them coming.

[tones2SS]

Good job.
Keep up the good work & keep us posted.:thumbsup:

[BBC69Camaro]

Work slowed down a bunch so I have been able to spend more time on the car.

Started pulling the entire interior out in prep to route battery cables:

Floors where not too bad:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/InteriorFloor002.jpg

Except for bunch of rust in the passengers floor area:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/InteriorFloor001.jpg


So I stripped the entire interior down to bare metal using an angle grinder with wire wheel cupped brush:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/InteriorFloor004.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/InteriorFloor006.jpg

This is one of the messiest jobs I have ever done, not much fun at all.

Also stripped the trunk (really got up and into as much as I could with a wirewheel on an angle grinder):

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/InteriorFloor009.jpg

I gotta say I really hate the body shop that plastered my trunk with tons of bondo trying to hide the rust and holes. When I looked at the car when I bought it, it certainly looked ok. But once I started to stripe the trunk you could immediate tell something was up with all the bondo. Basically I need a full trunk pan, but not going to deal with it now I want to get it running.

One of the many holes:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Trunk/TrunkStart004.jpg

About to pull off the top headliner and do the same to the top.

Mocked up a rear firewall that is bolt on:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Trunk/TrunktoPassangerFirewall004.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Trunk/TrunktoPassangerFirewall003.jpg

Bought Summit's kit for a drive-shaft loop and modded it to fit my application (also made some reinforcement plates):
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/DriveshaftLoop004.jpg

Had hoped to install one in both the front (near the trans) and rear (near rear axle), but the rear one is out there is simply not enough room near the axle due to the large 3" exhaust.

[BBC69Camaro]

Hard to take a good pic of the driveshaft loop with the car 2 feet off the ground:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/DriveshaftLoop006.jpg

Was able to get it within 6" of the centerline of the u-joint so should hopefully pass tech.

Doesn't look too bad from the interior side:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/DriveshaftLoop005.jpg


In process for mocking up the rear battery placement and measuring for battery and electrical cables to go the front the car.

Drilled several holes in the floor boards for bulkhead fittings (drilling big holes in good floors is scary ):
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Bulkheadfitting.jpg

Mostly trying to juggle the very beginning of electrical and should be starting to paint and then insulate the interior.

Thinking of putting Damplier Pro and their Thermal block product on the roof. And a mix of Damplier Pro + Lizard Skin (have a bunch left) on the floor / doors with some Heatwave Pro around the trans tunnel and Luxury Liner Pro (more Second skin products) on the floor, then run the battery, ground and B+ cables over this then lay the carpet.

[tones2SS]

Good job man. Looking good. Floor didn't look too bad at all.

[BBC69Camaro]

Good job man. Looking good. Floor didn't look too bad at all.

Thanks. The interior floor by the passenger cleaned up nice. Overall very good floors. So much so a friend came by a few days later and looked at them and said "Oh you put new floors in". That made me happy :)

Its all the holes in the trunk that is disappointing to me, but I'll deal with it.

[waynieZ]

It looks good Ed. It will be worth it in the end knowing what you've got under everything. Atleast it mostly looks real good, and the trunk doesn't look too bad. Keep us posted on your progress.

[BBC69Camaro]

Thanks for the vote of confidence Wayne. Certainly not as bad as I have seen on this site and others but definitely not what I was expecting. Here is more pics which is kind of typical of a number of places around the trunk pan:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Trunk008.jpg

And other side:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Trunk009.jpg

I am pretty sure that at some point my car had been in a rear end collision and trunk pan got tweaked (you can kind of see the rippling in the pics below) which probably made the rust worse (from water leaks). You can see some welding done that definitely wasn't factory.

Someone had gone to great measures to cover it all up with bondo, and smooth it all out and paint it up nice :( Only because I did a mini-tub did I ever start finding out what was hidden beneath the surface. I would have left the trunk alone cuz it looked so purdy :mad:

But going to treat this all like body work / paint and deal with it later. I live in Sunny California so I can just get it on the road and drive it a bit and a bit of fun.

[BBC69Camaro]

Started pulling headliner out. Pretty much one of the few areas (other than body / paint) that I haven't pulled out or redone yet:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Headliner001.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Headliner004.jpg

headliner wasn't too bad except for one tear near the dome light:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Headliner007.jpg

But since had the rest of the interior apart and was planning on sound deadening and insulating the interior figured I might as well do the complete interior. Also my car came with white interior with blue dash:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/CamaroInside.jpg
that I am thinking of changing to a black interior and since the headliner was blue was going to need changing anyways.

Anyways took a few reference pic/measurements also started labeling all the headliner bows:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Headliner017.jpg

Was thinking I could maybe get the headliner out in one piece w/o ripping it, but after going slow a few rips later and I was tearing it apart. I was able to get the rear sail panels out in one piece with the tack stripes intact. So far the roof looks good. Most of the original padding seems to be in-place and intact:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Headliner026.jpg

Next up the messy part of scraping the ceiling.

[BBC69Camaro]

... arms very tired ...

After a lot of scraping the roof was able to remove all old insulation/padding. My best friend was a sharped putty knife I sacrificed for this task. Odd thing was as I was taking off the old insulation I saw really nice unrusted roof:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Headliner028.jpg

But by the time I had taken off the entire amount of insulation the entire roof had flash-rusted:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Headliner030.jpg

Must have been some reaction of the glue + bare metal and the open air.

Probably the messiest job I have ever done. I can't remember a time I was dirtier and that includes grinding the paint off the trunk/floor or when mini-tubbing.

I played the racoon(had safety googles on and mask), this is what the mask looked like:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Headliner033.jpg


The padding disintegrates into almost something like thick potting soil even looks that way too:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Headliner029.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Headliner034.jpg

So now with all the padding off I hit the ceiling with a wire cupped brush:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Headliner037.jpg

I was a bit concerned with the paint on the roof so I went slow and kept checking the paint on the roof, but didn't notice anything. But by the time I was done with the 2nd panel (took a couple hour break between panels) looks like my paint started to bubble on the roof:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Headliner039.jpg

Any ideas from keeping this from happening elsewhere? Just go slower? Had been feeling the panels to make sure they didn't get very hot (kept moving to another area if it did start getting hot to touch).

Happy about nice solid interior roof, not so much on the actual exterior roof paint. Kind of scratching my head on this one. Just poor panel prep? I am pretty sure whoever did the paint kind of half-assed it maybe this is another sign I need a paint-job.

Which I know is in the future after I have driven the car a bunch. I had been thinking of just getting the dings fixed for the mid-term. I just wanted to enjoy a driver quality paint job and not having to worry if someone dinged me in a parking lot, but the bubbling really looks like crap now.

[TonyHuntimer]

It's definitely the dirtiest job I can remember doing. I just did this last year. Once you start, you may as well finish it because you only want to get this dirty one time. :)

We used KBS coatings to treat the underside of the roof.

That's a bummer about your paint. I was worried too, but kept moving without being in one area more than a second. It takes longer, but the panel turned out okay. Another suggestion is maybe throw some cold and wet rags on the roof to keep the top a little cooler.

Just a thought,
Tony Huntimer
RaceHome.com

[BBC69Camaro]

...Another suggestion is maybe throw some cold and wet rags on the roof to keep the top a little cooler...

Oh that's a good suggestion. Ya definitely at this point just want to finish the cleanup so I can then start painting and insulating the entire interior, so I can then move on to getting the electrical lines in from the Battery in the trunk.

Tony thanks for the idea :thumbsup:

[BBC69Camaro]

Another suggestion is maybe throw some cold and wet rags on the roof to keep the top a little cooler.

Even a combo of using the Mineral Spirits (on interior side) as well as putting wet towels on the roof and going a lot slower and only doing small square like areas and then moved to another side to work on till the other area was cool again, I still got paint bubbling on the roof :(

But at least now I have the ceiling clean:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Headliner040.jpg

[tones2SS]

Nice and clean now Ed.:thumbsup:

[BBC69Camaro]

Lots of updates.

After taking most of the interior down to bare metal and roughing up with 240 grit and cleaning up, masked off the roof:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Headliner047.jpg

Painted with Eastwood's Rust encapsulator (2 coats) followed by 2 coats of Extreme Chassis black:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Headliner060.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Headliner061.jpg

Let it dry for about a week then added Second Skin Audio's Damplier Pro:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Headliner062.jpg

Followed by their Thermal Block product and taped up all the edges:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior042.jpg

[BBC69Camaro]

Finally got the interior floor clean enough to where I would feel comfortable to use Por-15 on it:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior006.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior007.jpg

This is after roughing up the entire floor with 220 grit emery cloth. Then used Por-15's marine clean followed up by their Metal ready product:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior015.jpg

Figured I couldn't do the entire floor in one sitting with both 2 coats of por-15 then seam seal and chassis black, so figured I would divide up the floor in sections and do a bit at a time.

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior018.jpg

Had to leave myself some place to sit on the floor to reach the back corners
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior022.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior020.jpg

Finished product:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior023.jpg

[BBC69Camaro]

Rear package tray with closeouts are painted as well and started to put down Second Skin's Damplier Pro:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior035.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior031.jpg

Got all the way up to the firewall. Need to mock-up all my gauges and senders and figure out how everything is going through the firewall before I finish up on the firewall.

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior036.jpg

Still need to do the doors, rear quarter window areas and rear package tray. Planning on putting down heatwave pro as the next layer on the firewall and trans tunnel area and then Luxury liner pro. Overkill pro on the doors.

Started install on Screaming Performance's closeout cans and kickpanels (http://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?57007-Custom-kick-panels-for-1st-gen-Camaros)

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior039.jpg

[tones2SS]

Great job Ed. Looking good.

[69x22]

Ought to be nice and quiet on the inside.

[MODO Innovations]

Nice job. That floor pan was clean enough to eat off of.

[BBC69Camaro]

Great job Ed. Looking good.

Ought to be nice and quiet on the inside.

Nice job. That floor pan was clean enough to eat off of.

Thanks All!


Getting that floor clean was a pain, spent way too much time grinding on it :rolleyes:

[waynieZ]

Awesome job it came out beautiful. You should be good for the next 50 yrs with that prep work. Glad to see it coming a long.:thumbsup:

[BBC69Camaro]

Awesome job it came out beautiful. You should be good for the next 50 yrs with that prep work. Glad to see it coming a long.:thumbsup:

Thanks Wayne! Ya work let up a bit have some more time to spend on the car. Its nice to actually be installing parts rather than still taking things apart :lol:

[BBC69Camaro]

Just been plugging away slowly. Built some more rear shelf close outs.
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior043.jpg

Mounted the Morris classic concepts rear 3 point seat belt brackets (very nice system definitely recommended). Part of the closeouts integrated with the MCC brackets as they mount underneath the package tray and the side closeouts I made help sandwich the tray.

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior053.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior054.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior055.jpg

They are also covered with Dampflier Pro to keep them from rattling.

Took a slight detour and decided that I wanted to listen to some music so wired up my battery and then my amp, head unit and all 9 speakers (front/rear speaker+tweeter pairs and sub)

Using Screaming Performance's kick panels and closeouts:
http://www.screaminperformance.net/camaro_kick_panels.htm

Really liking them:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior039.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior047.jpg


And my temporary wiring for some tunes while I keep working (everything is fused don't want to burn things down before I get the car on the road):
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior051.jpg

Using Alpine's IDA-x305 for a head unit to control my iTouch (very cool can tranverse my iPod's playlists, artists and genre etc lists). Alpine's PDX-5 to drive all the speakers and 2 sets of Polk Audio's 6-1/2 component speaker systems (MM6501) with their 10" DVC sub (MM1040) for speakers. So far with just a bit of tuning it sounds as good or not better than any car's system I have had. Been listening to it non-stop while working on other stuff.

Definitely the location for the rear dome lights in the sail-panel area is a great place to mount tweeters, as I have the rear tweeters mounted there and they really make the system I think along with the front kick panels.


Put down what I have left of Second Skin Audio's Thermal block product (had used most of it on the roof). Was able to completely cover the firewall, trans tunnel and driver and passenger floor boards (least till where your feet go).
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Interior049.jpg

I just wish the stuff wasn't so expensive or I would cover the entire floor with it (almost $300 for 4 sheets or 24sq ft). The rest of the floor will get covered with their Heat wave pro (which I had bought before the Thermal Block product came out). May even double up in some areas like the firewall and trans tunnel over the Thermal block with heat wave pro. Then onto the sound absorbing Luxury liner pro. Doesn't look like I can get much more down underneath the gas pedal thou, probably have to skip some areas if I am still going to fit carpet in.

[waynieZ]

Your making some nice progress, and getting the sticky stuff out of thew way. I'm the oposite plenty of time but no car yet.

[tones2SS]

Great update Ed. Those are some nice speakers. Polk Audio make some nice stuff.:thumbsup:

[BBC69Camaro]

Your making some nice progress, and getting the sticky stuff out of thew way. I'm the oposite plenty of time but no car yet.

Thanks Wayne. Yeah and that sound deadener is sure sticky. I was sitting on some of it and realized if I didn't tape all the edges I probably wouldn't be able to get up soon, that butyl stuff gets everywhere, ruined a pair of sweats and a tee-shirt and started getting it all over the interior. :lol:

Great update Ed. Those are some nice speakers. Polk Audio make some nice stuff.:thumbsup:

Thanks! Yea listened to a bunch of speakers at Fry's and other stores and did bunch of research online they were the best sounding speakers to me, least that I could afford or justify spending that much money on. Very happy so far with how the stereo sounds.

[BBC69Camaro]

Still plugging away slowly on the electrical, have most of my battery cables made now. Have B+ power up to where the stock battery location is. Test fitted the main dash harness. Got the rear harness in and routed, still have to solder all the rear connections. Waiting for some Packard connectors so I run the DSE wires through the main bulkhead (need 1 male series 59 and they are hard to find only place I could find them was terminal supply co).


Got to thinking I have all these relays for fans, and head lights as well as a bunch of fuses for same and I want to use fuses for the main B+ line for the AAW engine harness as well as the Alternator instead of fusible links. Basically a bunch of fuses and relays. I already hid my MSD ignition and Spal fan controller in the front corner (passenger side) near the stock battery location. There was just enough space between them and the radiator to stick all this stuff. But since I am trying to hide all the electrical and routing it around the inner fenders I figured I would hide all these fuses and relays in a box.

First I found this for my fuse requirements:
http://bluesea.com/files/images/products/thumbs182/7748_182x182.jpg
http://bluesea.com/products/7748

I was needing something that could handle 150amps for my alternator, as well as going down to 30amp fuses for a bunch of relays and ignition etc. Even has a negative bus bar as well. Can handle 6x ATO (1-30A) fuses and 4x MIDI (30-200A) fuses, perfect for my application.

This is what I have so far:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Electrical/ElectricalBox001.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Electrical/ElectricalBox002.jpg

Able to pack quite a lot in a small package. Basically the big 2gauge red at the far left feeds the main fuse box, the other 2 gauge is fused at 150amp for alternator input, black 2 gauge feeds the negative bus bar. I have a 60amp fuse for the main B+ line of the AAW engine harness, 30amp MIDI fuse for the MSD ignition. One 30amp fuse for the headlight relays and 2x 30amp fuses for the electric fans. Still have room for 4 more fuses for expandability in the future.

I'll end up painting the box black and should hopefully disappear on the radiator support. I'll make some stand-offs out of 1" aluminum round stock to mount the box:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Electrical/ElectricalBox003.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Electrical/ElectricalBox004.jpg

Also put some metri-pack connectors on the low current wires so I can pull the box easily if needed.

[BBC69Camaro]

it sucks the je would send you a bad piston in the first place...they charge all the money for their stuff and you would expect it to be perfect!

Mistakes happen, I was very happy that they accommodated me on my tolerances and the salesman found a piston that let me hold a real tight tolerance, worked out for the best in the end.


did you have the shop the bored and honed the cylinders use a torque plate on the block when they did their work? nice job, rm

Yep torque plate and also brought the block up to temp then bored and honed it. Only real machining I didn't end up doing myself. I was lucky the teachers knew a great machine shop to send it out to.

Thanks for the compliment :thumbsup:

[BBC69Camaro]

Still plunking away. Took a TIG Welding class and narrowed rear seat frames. Used the instructions found in this thread as a baseline:
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=28606

This is what I started with:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/SeatFrames002.jpg

Ended up touching up all the spot welds since some of them looked pretty shakey. Also added a few extra bars for reinforcement as well. Now the frame is nice and solid.

One of the welds:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/SeatFrames003.jpg

Powder Coated:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/SeatFrames005.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/SeatFrames006.jpg

In the car with Arizen Racing seats (front) and matching rear cover:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Carseats003.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Carseats002.jpg

Bad news is found out later I was losing my job of 10 years. So budget for anything car related pretty much dried up, thou I have lots of time now lol. Slowly trying to finish up electrical (have most everything done now except rear wiring taillights etc).

Decided with all this time to polish this 4" aluminum "L" bracket that I am using to mount fuses, cut off switch etc to in the trunk. This is what I started with:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Electrical/BatteryConnectorBracket003.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Electrical/BatteryConnectorBracket001.jpg

And ended with:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Electrical/BatteryConnectorBracket006.jpg


Used a flat disc set of grinding pads in 60/80/120 on my air die grinder.
180 emery cloth down to about 600 or so.
Back with 300 wet sanding down to 2000 grit.
Switched to coarse rubbing compound with dual action sander with a coarse bonnet, then to medium and fine (bonnet + compound)
Ended up getting the finest microfiber cloth I could find and used Mother's Billet polish by hand to put the final finish on.


Got to the point where I was putting more scratches in than I was taking off so I basically called it quits then. Spent way too much time on it but never had tried polishing aluminum like this. Ended up having it powder coated, which dulled the finish a bit but it is now pretty durable, hardly anyone but me will every see it anyways.

Good news ended up getting a really good new job so now I'll have money again but little time, but I am so close now to having electrical done I'm hoping momentum will carry me to starting it up.

[fleetus macmullitz]

Nice progress and congrats on the new job. :thumbsup:

[waynieZ]

Glad to hear you got a new job. Good luck. Nice job on the polishing.

[BBC69Camaro]

Nice progress and congrats on the new job. :thumbsup:

Thanks Skip!

Glad to hear you got a new job. Good luck. Nice job on the polishing.

Thanks for the kind words Waynie :thumbsup:

[Al Moreno]

Good on you that your doing it mostly yourself with what your learning! :thumbsup: Keep it up.

[coolwelder62]

WOW!!,This is amazing build thread.There is a ton of super nice and very hard work put into this great build.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

[BBC69Camaro]

Thanks guys!

[BBC69Camaro]

Well been a long time since my last update. My new job really hasn't left much time for working on the car, but to be expected in the first year, gotta prove myself. But it has been a rough year, my dad ended up dying, but got through it all.

Had been contemplating a new 5th since they came out. Wife finally decided for me that it was time to jump in. A few years ago I had given her, her dream car around Christmas (Suby Outback), so she returned the favor:

2013 Camaro SS2/RS - 1LE in Ashen Grey Metallic with NPP performance exhaust and nav:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/2013%20Camaro/20121228_122829_zps72c45815.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/2013%20Camaro/ElectricCar_zps96aecbc4.jpg

Car is such a blast and fun to drive and really a head turner. Picked it up a week ago last Friday and already have over 350 miles on it and on my 3rd tank of gas.

Already some stuff mostly appearance (blacked out emblem kits etc), and a Bluetooth ODB-2 reader so I can use torque on my Android phone. Trying to get a good feel for the stock vehicle before I start with engine and suspension mods.

I'm a little torn, I swore to myself before I wouldn't get a new 5th gen until I had my 69 Camaro vehicle on the road. Basically all the electrical is done just been hunting down gremlins (oil pressure gauge doesn't work, fuel leak), but it has been started in my garage just haven't gone around the block yet.

On my todo list for the 2013:

Appearance/Interior/Misc:


Window Tinting
Some sort of BA amp upgrade swap with a sub (been looking at Subthump's offerings)
Heritage Grill and ZL1 Rockers
(Maybe) afterburners or sequential taillights (been looking at Apex's offering)
Some sort of custom license plate frame, but can't figure out a good saying yet



Performance (once I get used to the '13 and after the '69 is on the road):


Cold air induction with washer relocate and new scoop
Shorty headers (not sure whose yet)
Ported Intake and possibly ported throttle body
Some sort of tuning software (HP Tuners?) to take advantage of the increased breath-ability of the CAI and headers, intake and TB.
Pedders Rear sub-frame bushings and front radius arm bushings
(Maybe) Pedders rear 32mm bar and switching over to their magic 19" Forge-line wheel setup with 305s all around with coil overs (far off, plus really liking the ZL1 wheels).
(Maybe way down the road)Supercharging



Be nice to start going to some autocross gatherings try my hand a bit.

[tmadden]

Sorry to hear about your father.

[bonecrrusher]

Is that an 1LE 2013?

[BBC69Camaro]

Sorry to hear about your father.

Thanks, appreciate it.

[tones2SS]

Is that an 1LE 2013?

Yes, it is.
That 1LE is a great car. A lot of attributes taken off the ZL1. Enjoy!

[syborg tt]

I am very sorry for your loss.

As for the new Camaro I love the color and when you figure out what shorty headers your going with shoot me a pm. Right now I am considering a set from SLP or possibly using my extra Edelbrock set.

Well been a long time since my last update. My new job really hasn't left much time for working on the car, but to be expected in the first year, gotta prove myself. But it has been a rough year, my dad ended up dying, but got through it all.

Had been contemplating a new 5th since they came out. Wife finally decided for me that it was time to jump in. A few years ago I had given her, her dream car around Christmas (Suby Outback), so she returned the favor:

2013 Camaro SS2/RS - 1LE in Ashen Grey Metallic with NPP performance exhaust and nav:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/2013%20Camaro/20121228_122829_zps72c45815.jpg
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/2013%20Camaro/ElectricCar_zps96aecbc4.jpg

Car is such a blast and fun to drive and really a head turner. Picked it up a week ago last Friday and already have over 350 miles on it and on my 3rd tank of gas.

Already some stuff mostly appearance (blacked out emblem kits etc), and a Bluetooth ODB-2 reader so I can use torque on my Android phone. Trying to get a good feel for the stock vehicle before I start with engine and suspension mods.

I'm a little torn, I swore to myself before I wouldn't get a new 5th gen until I had my 69 Camaro vehicle on the road. Basically all the electrical is done just been hunting down gremlins (oil pressure gauge doesn't work, fuel leak), but it has been started in my garage just haven't gone around the block yet.

On my todo list for the 2013:

Appearance/Interior/Misc:


Window Tinting
Some sort of BA amp upgrade swap with a sub (been looking at Subthump's offerings)
Heritage Grill and ZL1 Rockers
(Maybe) afterburners or sequential taillights (been looking at Apex's offering)
Some sort of custom license plate frame, but can't figure out a good saying yet



Performance (once I get used to the '13 and after the '69 is on the road):


Cold air induction with washer relocate and new scoop
Shorty headers (not sure whose yet)
Ported Intake and possibly ported throttle body
Some sort of tuning software (HP Tuners?) to take advantage of the increased breath-ability of the CAI and headers, intake and TB.
Pedders Rear sub-frame bushings and front radius arm bushings
(Maybe) Pedders rear 32mm bar and switching over to their magic 19" Forge-line wheel setup with 305s all around with coil overs (far off, plus really liking the ZL1 wheels).
(Maybe way down the road)Supercharging



Be nice to start going to some autocross gatherings try my hand a bit.

[tones2SS]

I hear that a lot of the 5th gen Camaro guys are running a Doug Thorley shorty header and love them.

[BBC69Camaro]

Thanks guys.

Yeah still reading up on the various header threads. Need find one that is Carb certified since I'm in California. Also trying to find a dealer that is reasonable on warranty and small modifications to the car, that won't hassle me on repairs.

[syborg tt]

Thanks guys.

Yeah still reading up on the various header threads. Need find one that is Carb certified since I'm in California. Also trying to find a dealer that is reasonable on warranty and small modifications to the car, that won't hassle me on repairs.

When you figure it please shoot me a PM

[Nathan Moreno]

Thanks guys.

Yeah still reading up on the various header threads. Need find one that is Carb certified since I'm in California. Also trying to find a dealer that is reasonable on warranty and small modifications to the car, that won't hassle me on repairs.

When you figure it please shoot me a PM


Hey guys ARH has a shortie that Card certified in Cali. I think the are the only one.


Here is a link on them; http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228755

[syborg tt]

Hey guys ARH has a shortie that Card certified in Cali. I think the are the only one.


Here is a link on them; http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228755

They are on my list.

I saw them at Sema and the quality was incredible for a mass made header.

[BBC69Camaro]

Nathan,

Thanks for the link, definitely looks promising.

Hey guys ARH has a shortie that Card certified in Cali. I think the are the only one.


Here is a link on them; http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228755

[waynieZ]

Hi Ed how are the Camaros coming along?

[BBC69Camaro]

Hi Ed how are the Camaros coming along?

Been kind of distracted with the '13 1LE. Done a few things to it and been racing it in AutoX mostly.

Pomona earlier this year:
hHFFA9QySEY

Try at road racing at Willow Springs:
4CJT5W-3N6A