Can someone explain how to do this?

[abadsvt]

Hi guys! I have always loved how the sway bar is incorporated into the frame instead of just bolting to the frame. I hope that makes sence. Here is a pic of what i am talking about and hopefully someone can explain how it is done. I thought it might be a splined swaybar inside a shaft with some bearings and snap rings so it can't go side to side. Any comments would be much appreciated.

Josh

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc83/abadsvt/55beliarframe2.jpg

[Bowtieracing]

That is same system as DSE uses in its frames. Regular speedway splined swaybar with greaseble nylon bushings. Aluminium collar rings keep the bar centered and steel or aluminium arms bolts to the splined ends.

I have mine still in pieces - do you want me to take pics to clear it up ?


Bars : http://www.1speedway.com/standard_swaybars.htm

Arms,collar rings and bushings: http://www.1speedway.com/Swaybar_Arms.htm

[68protouring454]

you need to use roller bearings on end of tube, lefthander or other has them, i will find out where to get them, local circle track chassis guy use's them on his
jake

[abadsvt]

That is same system as DSE uses in its frames. Regular speedway splined swaybar with greaseble nylon bushings. Aluminium collar rings keep the bar centered and steel or aluminium arms bolts to the splined ends.

I have mine still in pieces - do you want me to take pics to clear it up ?


Bars : http://www.1speedway.com/standard_swaybars.htm

Arms,collar rings and bushings: http://www.1speedway.com/Swaybar_Arms.htm

If it isn't a huge hassle I would really appreciate some pics. What ever you guys have to help me understand exactly what is needed and maybe some tips would be VERY much appreciated. Thanks alot guys and i will check out those links:thumbsup:

[abadsvt]

you need to use roller bearings on end of tube, lefthander or other has them, i will find out where to get them, local circle track chassis guy use's them on his
jake

Any info on what and where to find the parts would be much appreciated. Thanks alot

[fesler]

look up Speedway Motors they have a few kits that will work for this, you have to build the sway bar you buy into the frame, its really easy and agree it looks sick.

[abadsvt]

look up Speedway Motors they have a few kits that will work for this, you have to build the sway bar you buy into the frame, its really easy and agree it looks sick.

I just checked speedway motors and i found this kit. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/4053,325_Universal-Rear-Sway-Bar-Kit.html?itemNo=sway%20bar It is a universal one but is the style i am looking for. I thought you should always use a splined sway bar. Is that true? I was trying to figure out what those plastic looking things are. Thanks for you help

[abadsvt]

I just talked to Speedway engineering and they gave me some useful info. I thought i would share since you guys are helping me out. They recommended me using nylon busings (non greasable) part # 605-125. Those nylon bushings go into a 1 3/4" piece of .065 tubing. I can use a thicker piece of tubing .083 and so on. I would just have to bore it out. The nylon bushings are designed to use an 1 1/4" sway bar and the sway bar arms, if designed proper, will hold the sway bar centered. The sway bar arms are 3/4" thick.

A questions for you guys. Instead of using standard sway bar arms do you know of a company or someone who makes the sytle of sway bar arms in the picture above.

Thanks alot

[MCMLXIX]

I was thinking of the same thing on the back of my Chevelle. I can't get it to run through the actual frame becasue I wouldn't be able to install or remove the bar as the body covers the frame. My idea was to use the tube design as a carrier and fab some brackets on eather end to bolt onto my coilover crossmember.

I kept looking for Delrin bushings but couldn't find any. Didn't realize that they were nylon. Speedway Engineering has a large assortment of solid and hollow bars in deiiferent lenghts and rates.

Here is a shot of my coilover crossmember. Thats the old 10 bolt. I have a new moser going in there. In order to get the shocks enough travel I had to into the trunk a few inches. I figured I would hang the swaybar tube off the crossmember...
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC04838.jpg

[MarkM66]

A questions for you guys. Instead of using standard sway bar arms do you know of a company or someone who makes the sytle of sway bar arms in the picture above.

Thanks alot

Looks like a fabricated piece to me. Steel arm welded to a cap on the end of the sway bar.

I'm not sure how the cap is attached to the arm. Maybe just some sort of set screw.

[ccracin]

Josh,

I'd say that is a custom piece. With your skills, you can make them easy. Start with run of the mill arms, steel or alum. that are already splined. Then change them how you see fit. It is probably cheaper to buy mass produced arms and cut them up than to have custom splines cut. You can do it!

Later,

[abadsvt]

Josh,

I'd say that is a custom piece. With your skills, you can make them easy. Start with run of the mill arms, steel or alum. that are already splined. Then change them how you see fit. It is probably cheaper to buy mass produced arms and cut them up than to have custom splines cut. You can do it!

Later,

Good point on the mass produced arms. I like saving money even though i am not good at it:lol: . Have you thought about how thick and size of bar you are going to run for your truck? Speaking of truck have you got any more done on it? Talk to you soon.

[ccracin]

Since we used the Morrison IFS and Triangulated 4 Link, we are going to use the bars they provide. I don't know the sizes off the top of my head. They are closer to factory style mounts which I am not fond of, but they seem to work well. We will see, they definately are not as trick as the splined stuff. We are actually geting closed making some sparks again. We just dropped some square tubing off at a neighbor for him to make our cab mounts. He has a bigger band saw and mill so it will be easier for him. When we get them back, we are going to set the cab on the chassis and get moving again.

Later,

[abadsvt]

Are you going to use a rear sway bar? Since i went with a trianglated 4 link my roll center is on the higher side so a rear sway bar isn't as important as the front but was just curious if others are using them. I am hoping by next week i can finally show some pics of what i have been working on. For some reason i have been waiting to show pics until i get the frame off the frame jig and next week is the big week:woot: . The frame won't be 100% but at least it will be a roller.

[ccracin]

I am using a rear bar. It is small however. I want to be able to run fairly soft springs for handling and comfort, but I also want to limit roll. Right now we are using the bar and springs Morrison supplied. I won't know if it is right until we start driving. I can't wait to see your new chassis. How bout some insider info?:unibrow: You can e-mail some preview pictures to [email protected].

Later,

[abadsvt]

Chad,
Sent you an email but just a heads up that my garage is a mess and the pics aren't the best.

Josh

[Bowtieracing]

Jeff , see it all here :


http://www.jefflilly.com/Fabrication/Fabrication-F/nascar-sway-bar/


Jeff Lilly restorations :bow:

[abadsvt]

Jeff , see it all here :


http://www.jefflilly.com/Fabrication/Fabrication-F/nascar-sway-bar/


Jeff Lilly restorations :bow:

Thanks for that link! Very nice step by step how you did your or someones elses sway bar! Just to double check again when seting up the sway bar the lower control arm and the sway bar arm should be at the same degree right? How important is it if they are slightly different? Is there a rule on how many degrees you can be off and it still work fine? Thanks

[ccracin]

Josh,

The angles matching is not all that important. The length of the arm and the links being vertical are more important. The length of the arm determines the rate at the arm and the links being vertical help to keep the system from binding. The arms sand links should be made to provide bind free movement over your complete range of motion. Hopefully that isn't confusing.

Later,

[abadsvt]

Josh,

The angles matching is not all that important. The length of the arm and the links being vertical are more important. The length of the arm determines the rate at the arm and the links being vertical help to keep the system from binding. The arms sand links should be made to provide bind free movement over your complete range of motion. Hopefully that isn't confusing.

Later,

Hey Chad! I am aware that the longer the arms are the less amount of force they provide. I believe my arms are going to be in the neighborhood of 11-14". Not to long and not to short. Okay, maybe a little on the shorter side. When you say links you are referring to the heims that attach the arms to the LCA, right? You are saying that the links need to be vertical at ride height and that he sway bar arms don't need to be at any specific angle. As long as they clear the tie rods through the suspension travel. Does all that sound right?

[ccracin]

Josh,

You are correct. I say vertical on the links, but within reason. Not binding through your full range of motion is most important. The reason for staying vertical is because the lower control arm for the most part travels up and down. If the link were at say a 45 deg angle forward (exagerated) then the force the arm applies to the control arm would be 50% up and 50% forward. I hope no-one jumps on me for these numbers, I'm just trying to illustrate a point. It is a bit more complicated than this. If you can keep them vertical with no bind to start with then you also have some room if you want to tweek the bar. You can move the attachment point on the bar arm for and aft to stiffen or soften the bar. But again, MAKE SURE IT DOESN"T BIND! It will give you fits if you don't check it. Hope this helps.

Later.

[abadsvt]

Josh,

You are correct. I say vertical on the links, but within reason. Not binding through your full range of motion is most important. The reason for staying vertical is because the lower control arm for the most part travels up and down. If the link were at say a 45 deg angle forward (exagerated) then the force the arm applies to the control arm would be 50% up and 50% forward. I hope no-one jumps on me for these numbers, I'm just trying to illustrate a point. It is a bit more complicated than this. If you can keep them vertical with no bind to start with then you also have some room if you want to tweek the bar. You can move the attachment point on the bar arm for and aft to stiffen or soften the bar. But again, MAKE SURE IT DOESN"T BIND! It will give you fits if you don't check it. Hope this helps.

Later.


That makes sence or I think it makes sence:D . Thanks for explaining that to me. I really appreciate it. When you say move the point for or aft you are talking about the holes on the end of the sway bar arm, right? Because that makes the arm softer or stiffer because it makes the arms longer or shorter. That is more for the fine adjustments probably. I think it got it. Thanks again!!