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View Full Version : 69 Deck Lid fitment problems


redfire69
06-03-2008, 07:15 AM
OK, so I know the deal with the gaps on the repop quarters and decklid, but does anyone know why the decklid would be hitting the tail pan and quarters before being fully shut (with bump stops installed)??? Here's a pic without the bump stops. OER decklid, goodmark tail pan, unknown repop quarters. The decklid is coming in contact with the pass quarter side and tail pan. Everything seems square and measures the same, but I'm not sure of any relative positioning since I got the car w/the back-end chopped up.

thanks in advance - Ron

http://home.infionline.net/~redfire69/images/redfireupdate7.jpg

DOOM
06-03-2008, 09:29 AM
Hi Ron
You no for sure the rear was square? Is the deck lid flush with both quarters? If it is then the tail pan has to be out of square. Some of these aftermarket deck lids are twisted and you have to do a little twisting to get them to set right, but if the lid is flush you may have bigger problems.
Mario

DOOM
06-03-2008, 04:27 PM
Hi Ron
You no for sure the rear was square? Is the deck lid flush with both quarters? If it is then the tail pan has to be out of square. Some of these aftermarket deck lids are twisted and you have to do a little twisting to get them to set right, but if the lid is flush you may have bigger problems.
Mario

Sorry Ron
I can see the picture better now my monitor was craping out I have a new one now. What I see looks like you may have a rail up or down. From the picture it looks like the problem may be on the left side (driver) to high. Is that gap on the left side tight ,and wider on the right? Did you put rails in the car? I would see if you can get access to a frame bench to make sure these rails are both at the same hight to the ground. Something has do be out of square . If you live in the Chicago area I can measure all your Datum hights on my bench. This will tell you right away.You can also do this by leveling the car and measuring the rails to the ground but without the rear Datum hight you would be guessing witch rail is up or down..Someone else jump in if you think im way off base here..
Mario

redfire69
06-04-2008, 03:13 AM
Hi Mario,

Thanks for the info. I did replace the rails, and they measure out square and level to the ground at the same height. I'm in VA and don't have ready access to a frame bench. The issue can be in wheel wells as they aren't yet perfect to the quarters. Also, Mike from MCC pointed out that the weather strip gutter on the tailpan may need to be bent down and indeed it is off on the pass side. Not sure how far down to bend it. The deck is not perfectly flush the quarters, it rises up a little, as if it has slightly more curve to it.

As far as the datum points on the frame rails, that is a good point since I got this car with the back end all cut up, so I'm basically guessing where the frame rails, quarters, trunk floor, and wheel wells all go in relation to one another.

A big issue I have is the deck lid is coming in contact with the pass quarter where the bump stop would be installed. Not sure where the problem is but I have the original deck lid and I'm going to try that asap. Hopefully that will also solve some of wide gap issues too. Sorry to ramble on...

Ron

http://home.infionline.net/~redfire69/images/deck1.jpg

http://home.infionline.net/~redfire69/images/deck2.jpg

http://home.infionline.net/~redfire69/images/deck3.jpg

http://home.infionline.net/~redfire69/images/deck4.jpg

http://home.infionline.net/~redfire69/images/deck5.jpg

68protouring454
06-04-2008, 04:20 AM
looks like the cleko in one of the pics, holding the 1/4 to tailpanel is not holding at all as there is a gap there, that would give you a 1/16th to an 1/8th, how wide are the gaps? 5/16?

redfire69
06-04-2008, 04:35 AM
looks like the cleko in one of the pics, holding the 1/4 to tailpanel is not holding at all as there is a gap there, that would give you a 1/16th to an 1/8th, how wide are the gaps? 5/16?

Yeah, the tail pan is bent in at that spot. Not sure how much more I will get when its straightened out. The gaps are 3/8s at the worst spots... thanks, Ron

MCC
06-04-2008, 06:45 AM
Ron,

Take your time , Clamp all the panels up good and work them to fit like you would like them to .. It is just sheet metal ..ALL Repo and NOS sheet metal take work to make it look good .

www.mikescustomcars.com

Thanks,
Mike Riggs

DOOM
06-04-2008, 07:01 AM
Ron,

Take your time , Clamp all the panels up good and work them to fit like you would like them to .. It is just sheet metal ..ALL Repo and NOS sheet metal take work to make it look good .

www.mikescustomcars.com

Thanks,
Mike Riggs

Heres the man that will get you squared away....:hail:

redfire69
06-04-2008, 07:07 AM
Heres the man that will get you squared away....:hail:

Mike has given me alot of advice via PMs today and I surely appreciate it!! :lateral:

redfire69
06-05-2008, 03:11 AM
So I still have to dial everything in and follow the advice I got, but I couldn't help but try the original deck lid last night... and it fits much better!! Imagine that..:lol: So I'll have a decision down the line whether or not to put the work into this almost 40 year old beatup panel.

BTW the original deck lid measures almost 1/4 inch wider in some spots than the repop.

Ron

http://home.infionline.net/~redfire69/images/decklid3.jpg

2Bad4Ya
06-05-2008, 05:59 AM
The original lid does not look bad, I would try to save it if me. This is going by the pix not showing alot of dents/rust. You would put as much time if not more on the new lid getting it smooth and to fit like the old one does.

redfire69
06-06-2008, 12:02 PM
The original lid does not look bad, I would try to save it if me. This is going by the pix not showing alot of dents/rust. You would put as much time if not more on the new lid getting it smooth and to fit like the old one does.


Yeah its actually not that bad except for the non-standard holes someone drilled into it to somehow mount a spoiler. Funny considering the shape of the rest of the original panels...