Hydraulic vs Mechanical clutch

[01somta]

I am about to pull the trigger and order my tko600 setup for my 502 in my first gen. What would be recommended for a street/show car hydraulic or mechanical clutch?

[ProdigyCustoms]

I know that you already have talked about this a bit (BTW, thanks for your TKO conversion order). So I know that you know my opinion but I thought I would say it on the forum. Chevrolet invented the Camaro's mechanical linkage and 40 years later is works on used and abused wore out junkers. The hydraulics can be a PIA to bleed and maintain. If you use a Mcleod hydraulic bearing, you have to be sure the clutch is operated at least every couple weeks as the sealing O Ring in the bearing is lubricated buy the fluid it is retaining. This warning comes straight from Red Roberts (inventer of the bearing and founder of Mcleod). And like any other hydraulic cylinder it has a life expectancy. The mechanical Z bar has a almost unlimited life expectancy.

With that said as I write this I have 3 hydraulic bearing cars in the garage, Project Prodigy, Project EmptyNest, and Michael's Monte Carlo.

So my answer is this:

If mechanical linkage is available (for Camaros it is), try to run mechanical linkage

If you have space limitations, run hydraulic (ala Project Prodigy, Project EmptyNest)

If there is no factory linkage (or limited factory linkage, hard to find / expensive) run hydraulic (ala Michael's Monte Carlo)

If you have appearance limitations, run hydraulic (ala Project Prodigy, Project EmptyNest)

Cost, the mechanical stuff is $200, the bearing is $400

[Bowtieracing]

I believe what Frank says i right on but if you can use any factory stuff - use it. I have had T56 with stock hydraulics and it worked like a dream. No aftermarket can match the factory engineered stuff ( at least when it comes to LSx era )

[01somta]

I know that you already have talked about this a bit (BTW, thanks for your TKO conversion order). So I know that you know my opinion but I thought I would say it on the forum. Chevrolet invented the Camaro's mechanical linkage and 40 years later is works on used and abused wore out junkers. The hydraulics can be a PIA to bleed and maintain. If you use a Mcleod hydraulic bearing, you have to be sure the clutch is operated at least every couple weeks as the sealing O Ring in the bearing is lubricated buy the fluid it is retaining. This warning comes straight from Red Roberts (inventer of the bearing and founder of Mcleod). And like any other hydraulic cylinder it has a life expectancy. The mechanical Z bar has a almost unlimited life expectancy.

With that said as I write this I have 3 hydraulic bearing cars in the garage, Project Prodigy, Project EmptyNest, and Michael's Monte Carlo.

So my answer is this:

If mechanical linkage is available (for Camaros it is), try to run mechanical linkage

If you have space limitations, run hydraulic (ala Project Prodigy, Project EmptyNest)

If there is no factory linkage (or limited factory linkage, hard to find / expensive) run hydraulic (ala Michael's Monte Carlo)

If you have appearance limitations, run hydraulic (ala Project Prodigy, Project EmptyNest)

Cost, the mechanical stuff is $200, the bearing is $400


I asked you in a pm, but I didn't think I got an answer. But, I guess this will definetly answer it for me.

Thanks Dustin

[XcYZ]

Dustin, when I had a TKO, I used the mechanical linkage, but made my own rods and used heim joints. Was smooth as butter, I was extremely happy with it.

[Blown353]

Dustin, when I had a TKO, I used the mechanical linkage, but made my own rods and used heim joints. Was smooth as butter, I was extremely happy with it.

That's what I'm running... changing over to turnbuckles & rod ends makes things very smooth.

Factory linkage has a finite life too especially with a heavier pressure plate. Eventually the link pins will wear and also egg out the holes in the Z-bar and clutch pedal and then things get very sloppy and can even hang up.

I prefer a mechanical clutch to a hydraulic any day of the week. The pedal just "feels" better and you have a better feel what the clutch is doing.

Hydraulic clutches are nice and smooth but don't really provide much feedback. Sometimes you don't have any other option though, such as extensive chassis / engine mods or headers in the way.

[malibu795]

i went HYD on my malibu. i was straped for time and space. i used a mcloed hyd through out and a 4rd gen f-body master cylinder and braided ss line.

i got mcloeds cnc master cylinder fo the F-bodys here ready to indstall just havent done it yet..

running hyd gave me more options for exhaust routing as well..

on benifet of hyd over mech is automatice slack adjust ment. clutch disendgate ment is always at the top of the pedel travel

[COYBILT]

If you like a to to feel everything that is going on, go mechanical.
I would love to run one on my car but my chassis wont allow for it so hydro it is.
keep it mechanical its worth it every bit.

[cheezer]

That's what I'm running... changing over to turnbuckles & rod ends makes things very smooth.

Factory linkage has a finite life too especially with a heavier pressure plate. Eventually the link pins will wear and also egg out the holes in the Z-bar and clutch pedal and then things get very sloppy and can even hang up.

You can get stuff like that here:

http://cmc.speeddirect.com/items.asp?Cc=RODLINKS&Bc=

cheezer

[ProTouring442]

That's what I'm running... changing over to turnbuckles & rod ends makes things very smooth.

Factory linkage has a finite life too especially with a heavier pressure plate. Eventually the link pins will wear and also egg out the holes in the Z-bar and clutch pedal and then things get very sloppy and can even hang up.

I prefer a mechanical clutch to a hydraulic any day of the week. The pedal just "feels" better and you have a better feel what the clutch is doing.

Hydraulic clutches are nice and smooth but don't really provide much feedback. Sometimes you don't have any other option though, such as extensive chassis / engine mods or headers in the way.

I used the factory Z-Bar on my 442, but made the linkage with heim joints. While I have not yet been able to drive the thing, I can tell you that the difference in the feel is phenomenal! With the factory linkage, even well greased, the action was rough and stiff, but with the Heim the action is smooth and much easier.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[Blown353]

I used the factory Z-Bar on my 442, but made the linkage with heim joints. While I have not yet been able to drive the thing, I can tell you that the difference in the feel is phenomenal! With the factory linkage, even well greased, the action was rough and stiff, but with the Heim the action is smooth and much easier.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

I am already running turnbuckles and heims... that's the only way I've had my car together. Much better than all factory. Everything is tighter and smoother.

I also gusseted and reinforced the Z-bar after breaking the z-bar on the '65 Vette one night and having to drive it home without a working clutch. I wasn't about to reproduce that level of "fun" with my Chevelle. Reinforcement is good. :thumbsup:

[woody80z28]

I like my hydraulic clutch. If you do a lot of street driving the lower pedal effort is nice.

[ProTouring442]

I am already running turnbuckles and heims... that's the only way I've had my car together. Much better than all factory. Everything is tighter and smoother.

I also gusseted and reinforced the Z-bar after breaking the z-bar on the '65 Vette one night and having to drive it home without a working clutch. I wasn't about to reproduce that level of "fun" with my Chevelle. Reinforcement is good. :thumbsup:


Hey, I've had that... eh... snapping feeling before! Such fun! :yes:

Next I want to install heims in all of the shift linkage joints on my Richmond 5-speed.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill