Wilwood disc brakes

[My68myway]

Ive got a set of wilwood disc brakes, Dynalite Pro Series Front Hub Kits part number 140-2285, on my 68 camaro. All was going good till about a month ago when it started eating up wheel bearing, ive replaced them 3 times and done everything exactly by the book, does anyone have any idea whats going on? Another queation is im running a 1" bore wilwood tandom master cylinder and it doesnt seem to be stopping like i think it should it wont even lock up the front brakes and there only 6 inch wide front tires, the peddle is as hard as i rock so i know there isnt air in the lines, i just feel that it should stop alot better than it does. Any suggestions on these 2 issues would be greatly appreciated because its driving me nuts.

[ProdigyCustoms]

I have no idea what is going on with your bearings. Your master is wrong, a 7/8" bore would add a lot of pressure at the equal pressure input from you. Could be as much as 20% more pressure. As for stopping / locking the brakes. Those 140 - 2285 are pretty small at 10.75 . They will stop the car, but they are not exactly big brakes.

[My68myway]

Well thanks for the info on the master cylinder im going to go ahead and swap to the 7/8 and see how much that helps.

[CRJpilot]

I was wondering if you had drums on before the swap and if so did you notice how much this kit offset the front wheels. just curious because i was looking into the same kit. Also are you happy with it so far besides the bearing problem?

thanks

[ProdigyCustoms]

CRJ, it is about 3/16 wider, nothing noticable. Unless your running 15" tires, I would highly suggest the 12.2" version of the kit, 140-7675. This is one case bigger is better, but they need 16" or bigger wheels. Regardless of what size you need, check us out when your ready to buy.

[deuce_454]

my guess would be that you are running too much preload on the bearings, and once the hub gets warm (which it will do either from to much preload, or too small a brake that soaks heat faster than an undersized disc can disappate it) the preload gets even higher, and presto.. you are toasting bearings faster than anyone cares to replace them..

try and run alittle more preload... just finger tight.. and if you drive "spirited" considder a bigger brake kit

[My68myway]

ive done finger tight and ive also torqued the berrings to 12ft/lbs like it says in the manuals. Ive got poly control arm bushing and one of them seems to be warn, could the little bit of play in that rear upper control arm bushing cause the wheel to lean in or out too much while cornering and put to much load on that outer bearing causing it to over heat? this is the only thing that i can think of. I had this kit on for around 2 years before this problem ever started and other than this i really liked the kit, it was very easy to instal and work on

[Vegas69]

It's possible you have a bent spindle. The correct way to install a wheel bearing is snug with a pair of pliers or torqe, and back the castle nut off one hole. Good luck.

[deuce_454]

It's possible you have a bent spindle. The correct way to install a wheel bearing is snug with a pair of pliers or torqe, and back the castle nut off one hole. Good luck.

good thinking!

[My68myway]

I dont think its a bent spendle because they were changed when i did the disc brake converson and it hasnt taken any hard hits or anything like that to bend one. i set up a dial indicator on everything thinking that maybe i warped a hub and that was causing some sort of stress on them but everything came out with less than 2 thousands runout so i figured that was pretty good. Does anyone think that that one messed up control arm bushing on the rear of the upper control arm would make a big enough difference in camber to cause excess pressure on the outer wheel bearing?

[fvike]

I'm thinking you either don't have enough grease in there (the grease cap should be jam-packed) or are you running huge-ass spacers on your wheels?

[My68myway]

I havent packed the cups of the hubs so ill try that but im going to take some pictures of something i noticed the other day and see if that can get any wheels turning in some heads, ill try and post them sometime tonight

[My68myway]

these are the pics of what i think is causing the outer bearing to fail prematurely, the pic where the wheel is straight up all i did was had the car in park and turned the wheel all the way to the right, the other pic where the tire is leaning i took while in the middle of a right turn, and i know this is kind of a huge thing to leave out but its only the drivers side thats giving me problems. i just noticed this the other day and thats why i was asking about the ATS site because my control arm bushings are poly but the upper rear one on the drivers side has a little bit of play in it, and i was wondering if that play could be leading to the camber problems resulting in that outer bearing having to much strain on it causing it to fail.

[deuce_454]

wow thats a really cool picture showing bushing deflection... your bearings really should be able to take that strain... but if your b´not totally anal about packing your bearings with grease... you should be dirty up to your elbows when you are done.. yhey will fail prety quick

and get som del-alum bushings (and solid body mount bushings).. you wil feel a world of difference

[My68myway]

i sawped to the aluminum body bushings right before the roll cage because i ate up the poly ones that i had put on a year or so before and ive packed the bearing the exact same on both sides and this is the only difference ive found in the 2 side and thats why i leaning towards this being the problem

[deuce_454]

well its a problem that can do with fixing anyway.. so just do it....

[My68myway]

im ordering new adjustable upper control arms probly tomorrow