Cutting front Coils GM F or X Body

[Jmartorana]

Has anyone cut the coils on the car without removing the coil?

I am thinking about removing the shock and placing a flat bar across the coils and using a porta power to jack the spring away from the perch and hitting the coil with a cut-off wheel........

Any thoughts??

[greencactus3]

Has anyone cut the coils on the car without removing the coil?

I am thinking about removing the shock and placing a flat bar across the coils and using a porta power to jack the spring away from the perch and hitting the coil with a cut-off wheel........

Any thoughts??
dont be lazy. how are you gonna cut it exaclty where you want to like that
and if theres any tension still on that spring you might get killed too.

[surreyboy]

Has anyone cut the coils on the car without removing the coil?

I am thinking about removing the shock and placing a flat bar across the coils and using a porta power to jack the spring away from the perch and hitting the coil with a cut-off wheel........

Any thoughts??
have someone ready with 911 on speed dial.

[Jmartorana]

You guys are looking at this like you can't control things.

If the spring is supported correctly and off the lower pocket with a crossbar above where your cutting ...... there is plenty of room to cut the spring. And it remains contained. There is less chance of getting hurt this way than having an inexperienced person trying to remove the spring from the car.

[Mkelcy]

So you propose to cut the springs without taking them out of the car, and ask what people think. Two folks respond, saying they think it's dangerous (as do I) and you argue with them?

Please go ahead, have someone document the process and let us know how it works. We'll look for the results either here or on YouTube.

[Jmartorana]

It's a simple question.... If you haven't done it you need not answer. If someone has done it their experience or advice is greatly appreciated.

Crossing the street is dangerous... So is removing a cast iron T-10 or Top Loader Ford on your back in your driveway but people do it.

Don't get me wrong I appreciate the concern but don't make me out to be some sort of A$$. I know what is safe and what isn't. People take shortcuts and others learn from them.

That is part of the reason why we are members of this and other forums........ we ask questions to get answers.

Thanks,

[greencactus3]

It's a simple question.... If you haven't done it you need not answer. If someone has done it their experience or advice is greatly appreciated.

Crossing the street is dangerous... So is removing a cast iron T-10 or Top Loader Ford on your back in your driveway but people do it.

Don't get me wrong I appreciate the concern but don't make me out to be some sort of A$$. I know what is safe and what isn't. People take shortcuts and others learn from them.

That is part of the reason why we are members of this and other forums........ we ask questions to get answers.

Thanks,
i just dont see whats so hard about taking out the spring... safety aside, how will you keep the coil cool (usually you can sit it in a bucket of water)
and how will you accurately measure your cuts?

[Jmartorana]

Your right it is not very difficult to remove the spring by breaking the lower joint and removing the sway bar link. But it would take more time (maybe). The other side is everytime you take something apart on these classics it leads to something else (you know the domino effect!)

I was just wondering if it was possible to do it on the car.

As far as keeping the heat down I would think using a sawzall or a very thin cutting wheel would not generate enough heat to travel any further than an inch or so. If one were to use a torch I would think it would make a huge difference.

[surreyboy]

what will happen if/when the spring slides off the flat bar?

[Jmartorana]

what will happen if/when the spring slides off the flat bar?

It would still in the spring pocket so I don't think there should be any safety concern. I would also think a spring compressor would also work in lieu of the flat bar.

[brownz]

It would still in the spring pocket so I don't think there should be any safety concern. I would also think a spring compressor would also work in lieu of the flat bar.

now dont take this the wrong way but if you can answer all these question just answer your own and do it and let us know how it goes, again not trying to be a a$$

[Jmartorana]

now dont take this the wrong way but if you can answer all these question just answer your own and do it and let us know how it goes, again not trying to be a a$$

When things are obvious I usually just dive in without any questions. I obviously have some doubt if it is possible thats why I asked the question.

I thought if someone tried it they would share their experience. I am sure there is someone who has attempted this.

[street3285]

The reason why nobody has attempted this, I am assuming is because of safety.

Just take the spring out. Big deal if you break and have to replace a $40 ball joint. I would rather take a chance and MAYBE buy a ball joint (probably won't have to) than to injure myself to save 5 min.

Just my opinion.

[greencactus3]

not too familiar with F bodies but ive heard they are similar up front to the s-series.
in which case you can just unbolt the inner bolts of the LCA and get the coil out that way, without touching the balljoints, if that is what you are afraid of

[Vince@Meanstreets]

After all this BS and the time and effort of putting the stuff together to try to save time I could have had it done by now. There are 2 ways to skin a cat but why would you want to in the first place? Ponder that while I do the other side.

[Jmartorana]

I have succumbed to the pressure :beathorse :beavis: and will heed the advise of disassembling the lower arms!

Thanks for the advise:thumbsup: !

[Vince@Meanstreets]

:_paranoid Not to throw you off....but...You know the GM coil spring special tool was a big threaded rod and washer that went through the bottom shock hole and it was then threaded into a shoe shaped plate that slid in between the spring coils. It held the coil on the lower arm.

So.....A common flat rate practice was to reverse the operation to feed the threaded rod down through the upper shock hole and hold the coil spring up into the frame pocket with the shoe so you can easily remove and replace the lower control arm. You can also use it to trim the lower coils.

If you know any GM techs they should have it.

Snap on has a similar tool. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item_Lg.asp?picFile=/18200/18182.JPG
Please don't risk your safety by using a cheap $30 unit.

[Jmartorana]

Vince:thumbsup:

That tool is what I was referring to originally.

Thanks

[TwinTurboMach1]

Go ahead and cut it on the car. Just get the tension of the spring first. IF your worred about it flying out put a rachet strap arround it.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Vince:thumbsup:

That tool is what I was referring to originally.

Thanks
yeah but you started with the tree branch and come along idear first didn't you? LOL, j/k, you know I just had to mess with you a bit. You don't even what to know how I cut spring lowered my Mustang. :wow:

[chicane]

Yes... you can cut them in place. No... you will not be able to control the height as you suspect. To get an accurate measurement, they have to come out.

Secondly... you DO NOT cool a spring in water. You only cool it in ambient air or you will drastically change the temper of the spring steel and they will end up to be useless when your done.

And lastly... its not worth taking a chance with kinetic energy. Simple tools that can be affordably rented from a local parts store is much cheaper than replacing a door or window... or you head, for that matter.

[XcYZ]

Can't believe this hasn't been suggested yet. :lol:

http://images.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0312_14_z+proper_lowering+heating_coil_NO.jpg

[greencactus3]

Secondly... you DO NOT cool a spring in water. You only cool it in ambient air or you will drastically change the temper of the spring steel and they will end up to be useless when your done.
no no no, you do not cool a heated spring by dumping it in water. that would be horrible.
what i meant was before you even start cutting, keep the coil inside the water to make sure it doesnt heat up

[Jmartorana]

Yes... you can cut them in place. No... you will not be able to control the height as you suspect. To get an accurate measurement, they have to come out.

Secondly... you DO NOT cool a spring in water. You only cool it in ambient air or you will drastically change the temper of the spring steel and they will end up to be useless when your done.

And lastly... its not worth taking a chance with kinetic energy. Simple tools that can be affordably rented from a local parts store is much cheaper than replacing a door or window... or you head, for that matter.

Chic

I can't see how the spring would get that hot anyways. If you used a cutting torch maybe but cooling in it water would temper the spring and make it brittle.

I am not sure how taking the spring out would allow you to control the height any better. I was planning on cutting a half coil at a time. I am only looking for about 1-1.5" drop anymore and I'll be draggin my collectors on the road.

Now this turned out to be a pretty constructive thread:lateral: !

[greencactus3]

just dont cut it in any method that requires 'cooling'
if it doesnt get hot, no need to cool it.
soooo hacksaw anybody?:thumbsup:

i know on my s-series fron coils (should be very similar)
the ends of the coils sit in rubber 'seats' which would make it very hard to know if i was cutting exactly half a coil or not.
not to mention, if F bodies are as similar to s-series as i have heard, you wanna have the cut end on top, which would make it even harder to cut correctly (hard to stick head up there into the spring pocket)

[Vince@Meanstreets]

1/2 coil is perfect.


saw-zall or die grinder with a cut off wheel....if you try the cut in water idea, please don't use a plasma cutter.

[vicious69]

You're crazy man, crazy. Just take the extra time and pop the balljoint.