ATTN: RPM Frank

[BlazerSpeed]

hey man I got your message, I was curious as to what suggestions you had. I've already ran into a few snags with the front half shafts. How many of this style conversion have you done? The more info you can send my way the better. Ive been told that the front prop shaft from a Bravada will NOT work as a direct swap, that true? Honestly I've been doing the body and interior work and havent attacked the mechanical as much as I'd like yet. If you have any pics that could help too. by the way I would definetly like to see The Race Rod on the track. I think that is going to be a damn nice performer.
DEREK

[RPM Frank]

Hey, I'm glad to help.

The Bravada unit will bolt up when using the correct front diff or pinion flange, but the vibration borders on a sexual experience. Get a Rebuilt SY/Ty unit and use the Bravada unit as the core. Make sure you use motor mounts that "DO NOT" offset the engine, this issue of extra room for the oil filter is easily fixed by using either the 4.3 remote setup or an aftermaket relocation kit. I happen to prefer the 95 and up style b/c it puts the filter beneath the truck and ahead of the front crossmember and keeps the egine compartment clean when changing. Buy the same type hose that GM uses for the 4.3 HD oil cooler line that runs to the radiator and get clamps that double wrap so that it seals tight and doesnt cut the into the rubber. The main issue for not using the offset mounts is due to driveline phasing for the AWD, that subtle difference will have you pulling your hair out. The Bell Tech lowering kit worked well for the front torsion bars but the rear leaf springs are very weak to begin with and they settle nearly an inch lower. That causes another problem where the rear shackles contact the chassis, I got rid of the stock units and got a set of old school lifting shackles to tune the rear height. Back to the weak springs, use a set of HAL shocks w/coilovers in the rear, get the lowest pressure spring they have, the Bell tech springs are so weak they bottom out "DAMN" hard everytime under acceleration. The next step is set the rear diff angle, once you have worked out the height after all has settled, cut off the factory spring perches, I sell a new set that have the correct offset to center the wheels in the wheel well properly. The factory is offset by 3/4" for some reason. Make all your drivline phasing adjustments from the rear diff, do not mess with the trans hieght, that will only knock off the front and your back to pulling hair. The factory 4.3 HD radiator works just fine, I've never had an overheating problem with any of these trucks even with the supercharger. Relocate the radiator to the inside of the radiator support and the condensor to the outside of the support. You will have to trim the hood latch support bracket but dont worry, the hoods are so light on those trucks that it makes no difference. Buy a Flex-A-Lite model 210 twin puller fan, it's a direct fit and works great. If using an LT1 engine, you'll need all the Corvette serpentine bracketry if you want to run A/C in the 4X4 chassis. DO NOT FORGET THE TRANSFER CASE TO ENGINE SUPPORT BRACKET !!! You will split every bellhousing on every trans you put in without it. The Ford Taurus has a dampening piston on the front of the engine you will want to adapt to the drivers side of the tranfer case and then to the torsion bar mount, it's a small trick but really helps unload the torque load under hard throttle. All of these mods come out to a little under a grand and will save your project from damage and your getting disgusted with it. Anything else you want or need I'm just a post or a phone call away.

BTW, whats the snag on the front shafts ???

Frank @ RPM :burnout:

[BlazerSpeed]

The problem with the half shafts was as follows: I got a set of torsion bar keys from a buddy of mine. they were used for roughly 4 years before he sold the truck, well it was my own stupid fault for not thinking of wear and tear on the keys. installed them and brought the front end down about 4 inches, look was dead on, ride was haha alittle rough :unibrow: well i didnt think about it (younger and dumber at the time) but the angle was way off on the half shafts and the began to bind. ended up snapping the drivers side when I went to use the 4WD. so yeah. ok, well my plan is to use a FI 383 with a low profile blower(B&M lo-rise or whipple) and i would like to keep the remote mounted oil filter assembly. have you ever had bolt up problems when switching to a 4L60-E? You mentioned the rear leafs being weak, honestly i would like to do a 4-link swap as cash allows, but are drop leaf packs ok in the meantime? ill get some pics this weekend so you can get a look at where im at, besides i need to get some pics up on here anyway.
DEREK

[RPM Frank]

That usually doesnt happen, check the support bushings on the front diff and replace if needed, sounds like your alignment problem might be there, most people dont even know they are there. The best bet for staying with leafs is what I outlined earlier. If your getting any real power to the ground stay away from lowering blocks and get a set of Cal-Tracs for traction. The 4L60E is a great trans but you'll need a computer for it. Start with a 700R4, no controller and we build them to handle up 900lbs torque. I found the best combo for the front is to use the factory ZR2 torsion bars, they have the rating and made a huge difference. I tried a coilover arrangement on one truck but had some major interference problems when turning deep.