BBC69Camaro
12-29-2007, 09:05 AM
It has always been my dream of buying a classic car and restoring / building it up how I wanted. Never really had the time/money/knowledge before.
So I started taking some classes at a local JC in auto-mechanics for fun and as a hobby to see if I really wanted to be serious about doing something like this. The more classes I took the more I realized I wanted to do this.
I finally bought my Camaro in April of this year. I took awhile as I tried to find one in good shape that needed an engine.
This is what I found - White Interior, automatic with overdrive (700R4). Very little rust, and the engine needed work:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/CamaroOutsideSmall.jpg
So meanwhile I have been working on building up a 454 BBC to swap into the car (it had an old tired 305 non-original engine in it don't worry not messing with a matching numbers car).
So I have been slowly building up a 454 GenV BBC to replace the small block. It is bored 030 over with a .250 stroker crank (8.0L or 489ci). Block has been fully blueprinted, decked and squared, main bore are all within .001" of straightness of each other same for the cam bore. Cylinders have less than .001" taper to them and are all within .0005" of each other.
I have done all the machining myself except for the boring and honing of the cylinders. Top of the block was custom polished for increased oil return and a screen kit installed (case I grenade a valve):
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/Engine002_sm.jpg
Heads had a competition valve job and custom porting and polishing done to them as well as all being CC'd within 1/10 of a CC as well as a run-out on the valve seat and valve face of less than 0005". All the bearings have been custom fitted to be within .0001" of each other.
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/Engine019_sm.jpg
Current progress - It looks pretty and should be just about as fast as well at I'm guessing 550-650 HP with a similar amount of torque:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/Engine037_sm.jpg
Has really nice idle on the stand with or w/o mufflers :thumbsup:
Engine was running really hot, but once initial break in was over and a change of radiator caps (current one wasn't holding pressure very well), engine was holding at 200 degrees even with a smallish radiator on the stand.
Other than that no leaks, changed the oil very clean throughout, re-torqued the head bolts and intake, redid the preload on the hydraulic roller rocker arms (didn't move much), everything checks out really good.
Engine sounds awesome just about how I was hoping it would. Holds about 12" of vacuum at idle (1100) with about 20" of vacuum at 2,500. 80lbs of oil pressure at start up, once warm it is about 65lbs at 2000 and about 45lbs at idle.
Running a bit rich, thinking of changing the power valve to a 2.5/3.5 from a 6.5, I have a FAST fuel/air meter I want to hook up, try to dial in the motor a bit more before I take it off the stand.
The stuff:
Eagle Rotating Assembly (good for up to 750hp) with Forged SRP Pistons
Clevite Tri-Armor coated bearings.
Brodix 270cc RR-O heads with 10:1 Compression
Comp Cams Thumpr Cam CL kit - full roller cam (227in 241ex @050" P/N: CL11-601-8).
Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap manifold.
4-barrel Holley Street Avenger 770cfm.
MSD Ignition with 6AL box.
Hooker Comp Headers with 3.5" collector and 2" primaries, going to be running a Pypes system 3" exhaust all the way out the back with Race Pro mufflers
Tilton Super Starter.
March Performance V-Belt pulley system.
Moroso 6 QT oil pan with wind-age tray.
Moroso High Volume Oil pump
Carter fuel pump 100GPH 7PSI
Ron Davis dual pass Radiator.
Earl's Oil and Trans coolers with Thermostat for oil cooler.
Relocating the battery to the trunk with the Moroso box and kit.
Por-15 Engine paint (boy do I like this paint! Brake clean has nothing on it).
All ARP hardware and Fel-Pro gaskets.
Billet Specialties BBC short valve covers and wire tie downs (really nice clean appearance).
Should have a very flat torque curve and a power band between 2000 - 6000 rpm. According to Desktop Dyno over 500lbs of torque above 1500rpm, peaking at 4000rpm with 600, peak HP is 563 at 5500rpm, I think it will ultimately be a little more than this being how well blueprinted the motor is, but we will see once it gets a real dyno run.
And then going to rebuild the suspension while the motor is out:
New Koni classic shocks front/rear
New Moog front Springs (5536 550lbs/rate going to cut them as per David Pozzi's site)
New Eaton Detroit multi-leaf rear springs (175lbs/rate)
Global West Rear Shackle kit with Del-A-Lum bushings
Hotchkiss front and rear sway bars
Hotchkis sub-frame connectors
Global West Solid body bushings
Upper and Lower Global West A-Arms with Del-A-Lum bushings
Lee 670 Steering box
ATS Tall Spindle
C5 Front Disc brake kit to go with Tall Spindles and working with the stock 15x7 rally wheels (plan to go to a 17" rim just no budget for it right now).
I want to get the engine in for a while so I can drive it, but I plan on replacing the rear end (10 bolt non-posi currently) with a 12 bolt posi and either rebuilding the 700R4 to handle the torque or going with a Keisler conversion kit and dropping a 6spd in the car.
So I started taking some classes at a local JC in auto-mechanics for fun and as a hobby to see if I really wanted to be serious about doing something like this. The more classes I took the more I realized I wanted to do this.
I finally bought my Camaro in April of this year. I took awhile as I tried to find one in good shape that needed an engine.
This is what I found - White Interior, automatic with overdrive (700R4). Very little rust, and the engine needed work:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/CamaroOutsideSmall.jpg
So meanwhile I have been working on building up a 454 BBC to swap into the car (it had an old tired 305 non-original engine in it don't worry not messing with a matching numbers car).
So I have been slowly building up a 454 GenV BBC to replace the small block. It is bored 030 over with a .250 stroker crank (8.0L or 489ci). Block has been fully blueprinted, decked and squared, main bore are all within .001" of straightness of each other same for the cam bore. Cylinders have less than .001" taper to them and are all within .0005" of each other.
I have done all the machining myself except for the boring and honing of the cylinders. Top of the block was custom polished for increased oil return and a screen kit installed (case I grenade a valve):
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/Engine002_sm.jpg
Heads had a competition valve job and custom porting and polishing done to them as well as all being CC'd within 1/10 of a CC as well as a run-out on the valve seat and valve face of less than 0005". All the bearings have been custom fitted to be within .0001" of each other.
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/Engine019_sm.jpg
Current progress - It looks pretty and should be just about as fast as well at I'm guessing 550-650 HP with a similar amount of torque:
http://home.socal.rr.com/ewillis1/images/Engine037_sm.jpg
Has really nice idle on the stand with or w/o mufflers :thumbsup:
Engine was running really hot, but once initial break in was over and a change of radiator caps (current one wasn't holding pressure very well), engine was holding at 200 degrees even with a smallish radiator on the stand.
Other than that no leaks, changed the oil very clean throughout, re-torqued the head bolts and intake, redid the preload on the hydraulic roller rocker arms (didn't move much), everything checks out really good.
Engine sounds awesome just about how I was hoping it would. Holds about 12" of vacuum at idle (1100) with about 20" of vacuum at 2,500. 80lbs of oil pressure at start up, once warm it is about 65lbs at 2000 and about 45lbs at idle.
Running a bit rich, thinking of changing the power valve to a 2.5/3.5 from a 6.5, I have a FAST fuel/air meter I want to hook up, try to dial in the motor a bit more before I take it off the stand.
The stuff:
Eagle Rotating Assembly (good for up to 750hp) with Forged SRP Pistons
Clevite Tri-Armor coated bearings.
Brodix 270cc RR-O heads with 10:1 Compression
Comp Cams Thumpr Cam CL kit - full roller cam (227in 241ex @050" P/N: CL11-601-8).
Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap manifold.
4-barrel Holley Street Avenger 770cfm.
MSD Ignition with 6AL box.
Hooker Comp Headers with 3.5" collector and 2" primaries, going to be running a Pypes system 3" exhaust all the way out the back with Race Pro mufflers
Tilton Super Starter.
March Performance V-Belt pulley system.
Moroso 6 QT oil pan with wind-age tray.
Moroso High Volume Oil pump
Carter fuel pump 100GPH 7PSI
Ron Davis dual pass Radiator.
Earl's Oil and Trans coolers with Thermostat for oil cooler.
Relocating the battery to the trunk with the Moroso box and kit.
Por-15 Engine paint (boy do I like this paint! Brake clean has nothing on it).
All ARP hardware and Fel-Pro gaskets.
Billet Specialties BBC short valve covers and wire tie downs (really nice clean appearance).
Should have a very flat torque curve and a power band between 2000 - 6000 rpm. According to Desktop Dyno over 500lbs of torque above 1500rpm, peaking at 4000rpm with 600, peak HP is 563 at 5500rpm, I think it will ultimately be a little more than this being how well blueprinted the motor is, but we will see once it gets a real dyno run.
And then going to rebuild the suspension while the motor is out:
New Koni classic shocks front/rear
New Moog front Springs (5536 550lbs/rate going to cut them as per David Pozzi's site)
New Eaton Detroit multi-leaf rear springs (175lbs/rate)
Global West Rear Shackle kit with Del-A-Lum bushings
Hotchkiss front and rear sway bars
Hotchkis sub-frame connectors
Global West Solid body bushings
Upper and Lower Global West A-Arms with Del-A-Lum bushings
Lee 670 Steering box
ATS Tall Spindle
C5 Front Disc brake kit to go with Tall Spindles and working with the stock 15x7 rally wheels (plan to go to a 17" rim just no budget for it right now).
I want to get the engine in for a while so I can drive it, but I plan on replacing the rear end (10 bolt non-posi currently) with a 12 bolt posi and either rebuilding the 700R4 to handle the torque or going with a Keisler conversion kit and dropping a 6spd in the car.