Is anyone using a Mark VIII Fan to cool your car?

[tyoneal]

Hello:

I live in the Dallas area, it is usually hot and humid.

I am having a tough time keeping the 400 sbc cool driving around and in traffic.

This I know:

- Water Pump is in good shape and working.
- Duel fans are working and the air coming off them in hot (They appear to be pulling hot air through the radiator)
- I have a big Aluminum Radiator on it
- I have a a/c condenser in front, but the engine gets hot, off or on. (Vintage Air)
- The thermostat does work and is a 180 degree
- There is no obstruction in front of the radiator other than the grill. (69 Camaro)
- The radiator is full and have added a "Wetter".
- I checked and replaced the Temp gauge
- Replaced fan controller
- Has High Output Duel electric fans, 11 inch. (Since the car is at a different location, can't remember which type)

What am I missing?

I have been researching on google and their have been a number of people recommending the Big Fan off a Lincoln Mark VIII. (Part-RF64)
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Here is a ebay search for the fans.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967-69-Camaro-Firebird-SB-HD-radiator-w-Mark-VIII-fan_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33600QQihZ012QQitem Z220022546145QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
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****Here is a decent link and discussion off the corvette forum.****

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1502136

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This is a bit frustrating, but I know there is a logical explanation for this. Can you all shed some light on this subject?

I have not been driving the car hard at all, and even cruising at 40 mph, the car will try to get hot.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

Ty O'Neal

[cjrolke]

my brothe has one on a 69 camaro

406 sbc

he bought a controller from the guy too

works like a champ

we were worried about it being too much current draw but it seems to be fine

let me tell you those things suck (in a good way)

[68protouring454]

dual 11's will not cool anything over 500hp, and I bet your over 500 hp. I woul dlook into the mark vIII fan, or look into ron davis's rad's as they are hands down the best out there, be cool is high priced and junk in my book.
Also get a 160 thermostat in the engine.

[camcojb]

I ran the Mark VIII fan on my Procharged 540, wouldn't break 190 degrees idling with the air on in 100+ temps. I also used it on my friends 700 rwhp small block, same results. It flat out works.

Remember you'll need a 60-75 amp relay to run that, the 30 amp Bosch standard relay won't work. If you can afford it the DC controller for the fan is a very nice setup.

Jody

[BonzoHansen]

If you can afford it the DC controller for the fan is a very nice setup.

JodyIf you can get one I agree, that DCC is a great piece. I love mine.

[Clockwork]

If you can get one I agree, that DCC is a great piece. I love mine.

+1 on the DCC and Mark VIII great setup!

[JUSTANOVA]

+1 on the DCC and Mark VIII great setup!

+1 MINE WORKS GREAT

[frankenstang]

I'm running a MK8 fan and love it to pieces. It's on a 306 Ford with a Votech supercharger. I run around 450 to the wheels. The radiator is a summit 1 inch single core for a Mustang app. Never gets above the 'N' on normal. If anything, it runs too cool.

I concur with the relay issue. Get a 60 amp. Make sure to use the best 10gauge wire and keep the relay close to the fan. That sucker draws some serious power on start-up. I just used a Painless Wiring 190 degree 'on' sensor and it works great.

[69 L88 Camaro]

Are the Mark VIII fans pushers or pullers? Thanks

[camcojb]

Are the Mark VIII fans pushers or pullers? Thanks

pullers.

[clill]

I had one in the Red Witch with a aluminum 532" and it worked perfect. Never overheated even with the AC on.

[tyoneal]

Wow!

Thanks for the confirmation and the recommendations.

Is the Correct Part number for the Fan, (Part-RF64)?

Where would you recommend buying these, and is there a specific Part Numbers for the optimum setup?
==================================

Mark VIII Fan
Get a 60 amp.
the best 10 gauge wire
Painless Wiring 190 degree 'on' sensor
DC Controller
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Mark VIII Fan
60-75 amp relay
the DC controller
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Yes, from what I understand it is running about 550 hp + I added a A/C unit not long ago. So I bet this is probably my problem

Thanks for all your input, if you wouldn't mind pointing me in the right direction for acquisition, the correct part numbers and what I might expect to pay for it.

Thanks again,

Best Regards,

Ty O'Neal

[clill]

Measure from the tip of the water pump to the radiator and post the distance. Depending on what motor mount stands you have and short or long water pump you could have fit issues. Someone that has a setup on a car right now can post how much room you need. I know someone earlier had a problem so we should try to find out now.

[69 L88 Camaro]

pullers.
Thanks for the reply:thumbsup: Do you have a suggestion for a pusher type fan or fans? 1965 GTO, C&R radiator, BBC with roots blower drive. I was hoping to get the fan or fans ahead of the radiator.

[tyoneal]

[QUOTE=clill]Measure from the tip of the water pump to the radiator and post the distance. Depending on what motor mount stands you have and short or long water pump you could have fit issues. Someone that has a setup on a car right now can post how much room you need. I know someone earlier had a problem so we should try to find out no
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Clill:

I'll get the measurement tomorrow and post it here. I am also, very interested in sources for the correct parts.

Thanks a million.

Ty O'Neal

[tyoneal]

[QUOTE=clill]Measure from the tip of the water pump to the radiator and post the distance. Depending on what motor mount stands you have and short or long water pump you could have fit issues. Someone that has a setup on a car right now can post how much room you need. I know someone earlier had a problem so we should try to find out no
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Clill:

I'll get the measurement tomorrow and post it here. I am also, very interested in sources for the correct parts.

Thanks a million.

Ty O'Neal
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Ok, here is the measurement.

From the tip of the water pump pulley (March System) to the back of the Radiator is right at 6 inches.

I look forwa to hearing from you.

Thanks,

Ty

[tyoneal]

Measure from the tip of the water pump to the radiator and post the distance. Depending on what motor mount stands you have and short or long water pump you could have fit issues. Someone that has a setup on a car right now can post how much room you need. I know someone earlier had a problem so we should try to find out now.
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From the tip of the water pump pulley (March System) to the back of the Radiator is right at 6 inches.

I look forwa to hearing from you.

Thanks,

Ty

[tyoneal]

To All:

Anyone else have any information regarding the fit of this fan?

Thanks,

Ty O'Neal

[tyoneal]

To All:

Does anyone know if the distance of 6 inches between the tip of the water pump to the rear of the radiator would make it possible to install the Mark III Fan?

Also, Where would you recommend buying it and the accessories needed for a correct installation?

What kind of price can I expect to pay for it.

Thanks,

Ty O'Neal

[JUSTANOVA]

To All:

Does anyone know if the distance of 6 inches between the tip of the water pump to the rear of the radiator would make it possible to install the Mark III Fan?

Also, Where would you recommend buying it and the accessories needed for a correct installation?

What kind of price can I expect to pay for it.

Thanks,

Ty O'Neal

I got mine from dccontrol.com and if i remember correctly the cut down version of the fan was 5 or 5.5 inches deep, I just looked up dccontrols website but it appears you have to email them, they used to have the products on the website. i got the fan and controller from them.

[camcojb]

To All:

Does anyone know if the distance of 6 inches between the tip of the water pump to the rear of the radiator would make it possible to install the Mark III Fan?

Also, Where would you recommend buying it and the accessories needed for a correct installation?

What kind of price can I expect to pay for it.

Thanks,

Ty O'Neal


the fan is 22" by 18.5" by 6.25" deep. The motor is offset slightly so in most cases you can simply slide the fan over enough to clear the water pump pulley if the clearance is close.

You can also trim the shroud approximately 1" to get even more room, so in your case the fan should clear easily, but may need to be trimmed.

Due to their popularity they have gone up in recent years, but they are still the best solution I've seen. They are right at $200 from Rock Auto (Motorcraft RF64) and you'll find them for a few bucks cheaper on Ebay. Just make sure it's the 97-later fan as it's a higher rated fan; the earlier Mark VIII fan is not the same, although it would be plenty for almost all applications.


Jody

[tyoneal]

the fan is 22" by 18.5" by 6.25" deep. The motor is offset slightly so in most cases you can simply slide the fan over enough to clear the water pump pulley if the clearance is close.

You can also trim the shroud approximately 1" to get even more room, so in your case the fan should clear easily, but may need to be trimmed.

Due to their popularity they have gone up in recent years, but they are still the best solution I've seen. They are right at $200 from Rock Auto (Motorcraft RF64) and you'll find them for a few bucks cheaper on Ebay. Just make sure it's the 97-later fan as it's a higher rated fan; the earlier Mark VIII fan is not the same, although it would be plenty for almost all applications.


Jody
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Jody:

Thanks for the info. Sounds like the right system. Hopefully a permanent Fix.

Ty

[JUSTANOVA]

http://www.dccontrol.com/0820.htm

You can get the fan pre-trimmed from these guys to a total depth of 5" . I got mine from them pre-trimmed and it was a very nice trim job and they put a rubber seal around the fan where they trimmed it.

they also have a fan that has a bit less cfm, but is only 4" deep too

[marolf101x]

In an effort to save a fellow Pro-tourer some coin here's my opinion:

If you have the SPAL dual 11-inch fan you should be able to make it cool as well or better than the Ford unit.
Here's a few tips:
-make sure the fan shroud is touching the core and covering as much as possible
-I like to use strips of rubber so the fan shroud can touch the radiator core
-this ensures all air is being pulled through the radiator, not around the fan shroud
-place the condensor as close to the radiator core as you can (or use foam strips like the factory does)
-this also keeps air moving through the core
-use a high-end radiator
-BeCool is ok
-I prefer Ron Davis (http://www.rondavisradiators.com/), C&R (http://www.crracing.com/), or Performance Rod and Custom (http://www.prchotrod.com/)
-DO NOT listen to "that set-up will only handle 600HP"
-it's all about how efficiently your cooling system can extract heat from the water. It has nothing to do with how much power you make. (generally speaking the more power, the hotter the engine runs, but it's a poor way of gaging what you need.)
-if you water pump is moving the water, and your radiator is removing the heat from the water, it will work
-removing heat depends on thermal efficiency. This is dictated by airflow, how long you hold the water in the radiator, and how efficient the radiator design is

I mention all of this only because I happen to have the attached graph. This is a graph supplied by SPAL illustrating the Ford unit as tested on SPAL's equipment. If this is correct, simply replacing the fan will not solve the problem as the cfm rating of the Ford unit is actually under the dual 11 (especially under static conditions)

I'm not bashing the Ford fan. It is huge and pulls a lot of air. However, I'd hate to see you drop a few hundred bucks only to find it was something else.

[camcojb]

In an effort to save a fellow Pro-tourer some coin here's my opinion:

If you have the SPAL dual 11-inch fan you should be able to make it cool as well or better than the Ford unit.
Here's a few tips:
-make sure the fan shroud is touching the core and covering as much as possible
-I like to use strips of rubber so the fan shroud can touch the radiator core
-this ensures all air is being pulled through the radiator, not around the fan shroud
-place the condensor as close to the radiator core as you can (or use foam strips like the factory does)
-this also keeps air moving through the core
-use a high-end radiator
-BeCool is ok
-I prefer Ron Davis (http://www.rondavisradiators.com/), C&R (http://www.crracing.com/), or Performance Rod and Custom (http://www.prchotrod.com/)
-DO NOT listen to "that set-up will only handle 600HP"
-it's all about how efficiently your cooling system can extract heat from the water. It has nothing to do with how much power you make. (generally speaking the more power, the hotter the engine runs, but it's a poor way of gaging what you need.)
-if you water pump is moving the water, and your radiator is removing the heat from the water, it will work
-removing heat depends on thermal efficiency. This is dictated by airflow, how long you hold the water in the radiator, and how efficient the radiator design is

I mention all of this only because I happen to have the attached graph. This is a graph supplied by SPAL illustrating the Ford unit as tested on SPAL's equipment. If this is correct, simply replacing the fan will not solve the problem as the cfm rating of the Ford unit is actually under the dual 11 (especially under static conditions)

I'm not bashing the Ford fan. It is huge and pulls a lot of air. However, I'd hate to see you drop a few hundred bucks only to find it was something else.


I disagree. I've had both, and the dual Spal can't keep up with the Mark VIII fan. I'm speaking of the later model Mark VIII (97-later I believe), not the earlier one. I know their drawing isn't accurate as the late-model Mark VIII flows over 4000 cfm. Well, either that or they're misleading you by comparing to the older Mark VIII.

I had the dual Spal exactly set up as you've shown and my car would still hit 210 at idle with the a/c on a 100+ degree day. With no changes but the fan swap it wouldn't break 190. That tells me the Mark VIII definitely has more airflow.

Jody

[68protouring454]

I disagree. I've had both, and the dual Spal can't keep up with the Mark VIII fan. I'm speaking of the later model Mark VIII (97-later I believe), not the earlier one. I know their drawing isn't accurate as the late-model Mark VIII flows over 4000 cfm. Well, either that or they're misleading you by comparing to the older Mark VIII.

I had the dual Spal exactly set up as you've shown and my car would still hit 210 at idle with the a/c on a 100+ degree day. With no changes but the fan swap it wouldn't break 190. That tells me the Mark VIII definitely has more airflow.

Jody
Jody
agreed, mark wests 509 camaro at pigeon forge had twin 11 inch spals and it would enot go below 210, vinnys car had twin 13 inch spals on a junk be cool radiator and it would run 190 with short times at 200 till the fans caught up.
mark viii for me from now on

[camcojb]

agreed, mark wests 509 camaro at pigeon forge had twin 11 inch spals and it would enot go below 210, vinnys car had twin 13 inch spals on a junk be cool radiator and it would run 190 with short times at 200 till the fans caught up.
mark viii for me from now on

I agree Jake. I have the twin Spals on my Ron Davis radiator, but if the car runs hot at idle I will not hesitate to swap to the later Mark VIII; been there, done that, it flat out works.

By the way, got the new Iwata W400, thanks for the advice. :thumbsup:
Jody

[68protouring454]

I agree Jake. I have the twin Spals on my Ron Davis radiator, but if the car runs hot at idle I will not hesitate to swap to the later Mark VIII; been there, done that, it flat out works.

By the way, got the new Iwata W400, thanks for the advice. :thumbsup:
Jody
Cool:thumbsup: any questions you know how to get ahold of me
yeah lesson learned on vins car, wait for ron davis to make one, or do cheap radiator, mark viii fan, be cool stuff is ok, but does not warrant the price, looks cheap