Sneak peak at my 66 Cutlass

[gearheads78]

I want to start on a complete build on my car but I am still buying parts a saving money right now. I have c6 brakes and a bunch of new goodies from Mark but I know when I start the snowball starts from the top of Mt Evererst. With Goodguys here next weekend I had to get the stance right so I chopped the stock springs until I get Eibachs in.

http://www.deadzoom.com/member/gearheads78/66olds/droppedolds2003sm.jpg

http://www.deadzoom.com/member/gearheads78/66olds/sm.jpg

http://www.deadzoom.com/member/gearheads78/66olds/droppedolds2002sm.jpg

[T Bell]

sweet!!!!!!!! Let the Olds revolution begin.

[rwhite692]

Beautiful car!

I Love those cars, especially verts. Keep the updates coming!

[Hdesign]

Easily in my top 10 favorite cars. Keep us posted, this will be a very cool build and it's great to see something different!:thumbsup:

[gearheads78]

Thanks guys. Can't wait to really get started.

[gearheads78]

Sold the other wheels last year after Good Guys and have been driving it around like the first pic.

Today I finally got a chance to start working on it. Figured out what the new combo will look like at ride height. I also got the old suspension out from under the car.

I hope to have suspension and brakes mocked up Sunday so I can measure for wheels. I am running out of time. It will be on power tour come hell or high water.

[gearheads78]

measuring for front and rear wheel clearance

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/2079/66cutlasstires009tq7.jpg
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/2559/66cutlasstires010vu9.jpg

made some brackets for the brake new emergency brake cables. Ready for refinish.

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/4026/66cutlasstires012wz4.jpg
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/4417/66cutlasstires013qa0.jpg

[ScotI]

I'm coining the phrase "JoeTouring" for us guys w/o the deep pockets but still building decent rides/drivers. It's coming along nicely.

Are you still planning to yank the body from the chassis?

[gearheads78]

I'm coining the phrase "JoeTouring" for us guys w/o the deep pockets but still building decent rides/drivers. It's coming along nicely.

Are you still planning to yank the body from the chassis?

JOE TOURING I think I like it

As for the body..Come on now who in thier right mind would pull the body off the frame with only 48 days till Power Tour :eek:

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/1025/66cutlasstires016zk9.jpg

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/1706/66cutlasstires017vr0.jpg

[ProTouring442]

JOE TOURING I think I like it

As for the body..Come on now who in their right mind would pull the body off the frame with only 48 days till Power Tour :eek:

But it's only a few more bolts! :D

Keep the pics coming... I like red Olds convertibles you know!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[gearheads78]

Rear bumper had a couple of pretty good dents so I dropped it off at the plater this morning.

Got the brackets for the rear brake lines made up and welded today. Also got the housing stripped down ready to go to the powder coater.
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/6900/66cutlasstires023ej8.jpg


Lots more dissasmebly only 42 days
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/5844/66cutlasstires027om5.jpg

http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/1369/66cutlasstires025gj0.jpg

[ScotI]

Who did you decide on for the powder-coating?

[gearheads78]

probably Quality or the place you were telling me Stoked Out used. Trying to have everything ready by late Saturday. As of tonight the frame in now bare. Now its time to start taking apart sub assemblies. To save time everything but the motor is getting white or black zinc plated or powder coated. I'll clean up and regasket and detail the motor while everything is out getting done. Then if I still have time I'll buff out the original laquer to get it looking as best as it can untill I have the money to take it back apart and paint it.

[ScotI]

Looks like a bunch of progress. Don't hesitate to give a shout if you need a hand w/something.

[gearheads78]

Almost 1/2 way there. Just about everything thats coming apart is now apart. I dropped off lots of stuff to the plater late Saturday. Going to do lots of parts in white and black zinc for an OEM look to everything even though its all custom.

I already told my boss I will be in late on Monday. I hope to have this stuff at the powder coaters when they open.

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/3955/66cutlasstires029xx3.jpg

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/7385/66cutlasstires028uk6.jpg

[gearheads78]

I picked up my slightly modified C6 Corvette calipers tonight after work. What do you think? I don't know if I am the first to do this but I have never seen it done.


http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/8421/66cutlasstirestk4.jpg

[TonyG]

JoeTouring.. I like it.. I notice a few of you guys are in DFW. I am about two hrs east. We have a company here that powdercoats frames for about 300 bucks.

I am definately one of the JoeTouring guys... Big dreams, little budget.

[T Bell]

Joe Touring. I love it. OLDSMOBILE is a lot of letters on that caliper. Maybe just OLDS. Too late now though. Still looks good.

[ScotI]

I am definately one of the JoeTouring guys... Big dreams, little budget.
That's me!

[ProTouring442]

I picked up my slightly modified C6 Corvette calipers tonight after work. What do you think? I don't know if I am the first to do this but I have never seen it done.


http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/8421/66cutlasstirestk4.jpg

Sweet!!! Where did you get that done?

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[gearheads78]

Joe Touring. I love it. OLDSMOBILE is a lot of letters on that caliper. Maybe just OLDS. Too late now though. Still looks good.

"Corvette" was only 2 less letters and the I in Oldsmobile does not take up much space so I think its looks better than just "Olds" would have.

[gearheads78]

Sweet!!! Where did you get that done?

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

Thanks
Its an idea I have had in my head for a while. I finally found a local machine shop that was willing to take such a small job and not have to take a second on my house for setup fees.

[ProTouring442]

Thanks
Its an idea I have had in my head for a while. I finally found a local machine shop that was willing to take such a small job and not have to take a second on my house for setup fees.

Sweet... I may have a set of calipers to have done if you wouldn't mind someone else with "Oldsmobile" calipers.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[gearheads78]

Sweet... I may have a set of calipers to have done if you wouldn't mind someone else with "Oldsmobile" calipers.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

PM me for my paypal address so you can send my royalty check. :lol:


Little bit of progress this weekend. Still a few days before I get the cad/zinc plating and the powder coated stuff back. I worked of prepping some of the stuff I still have here.

455 won't be built for a while so the orginal 330 will go back in for now. The motor was pulled down to a bare long block and scaped, chisled, and wire brushed 42 years worth of grease and grime. Also resealed everything back up with new gaskets. Little bit more cleaning and motor will be ready for a fresh coat of Oldsmobile gold.

The rest of the time was spent cleaning, sand blasting and painting lots of misc parts.

http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/1989/66cutlasstires031rx1.jpg

http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/7324/66cutlasstires030cw3.jpg

[T Bell]

you're not putting Toyota parts in the engine are you?:_paranoid

[gearheads78]

Of course...It makes it run a very rong rime :D

[gearheads78]

Two phone calls today. One was from the machine shop the other from the plater.

Since I am using LS1 F-body rear brakes on a stock 72 rear there is nothing to hold in the factory bolt in axles tight. I had these spacers made to take care of that. I also had them cut down the front hubs to clear the C6 Corvette front rotors. the last thing I had them do was cut the stud holes to .503 to get the correct interference fit with my aftermarket ARP metric studs. I cut them down to 2.200 so they will still be long but stay under the closed end lug nuts.

The plating I am extreemly happy with. I had old greasy rusty original parts and new gold cad after market parts parts. I did not like the look of either. Anything that did not go to the powder coater went to the plater. After this I don't think I will ever clean a rusty bolt again. Below is just some of the stuff.

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/1528/66cutlasstires037ve2.jpg

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/7726/66cutlasstires032sm1.jpg

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/6864/66cutlasstires033mu6.jpg

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/5139/66cutlasstires035zk8.jpg

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/2452/66cutlasstires034us5.jpg

[gearheads78]

I got some high heat primer and Fusicks gold on the motor tonight. I should have waited till a daytime I could do it. The bugs and trash were getting in it like crazy. The intake and block still look great because the rough cast iron hides the imperfections. The pan and valve cover don't look to good up close. I will probably redo the valve covers since they are so visible.

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/5007/66cutlasstires039fw4.jpg

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/3762/66cutlasstires040ci2.jpg

[gearheads78]

Well its over a week later than quoted but I finally got my pieces back from the coater tonight. Do these things come with instructions ? :D

23 days left. Oh Shhhhh**

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/6264/66cutlasstires044sg9.jpg

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/3386/66cutlasstires045tz7.jpg

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/3229/66cutlasstires046qr5.jpg

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/2586/66cutlasstires047od8.jpg

[gearheads78]

more

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/9669/66cutlasstires048zh5.jpg

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/6779/66cutlasstires043sy3.jpg

[SteveMcqueenRules]

wow that must feel good to drop off ugly rusty parts and get back nice shiny stuff!

[gearheads78]

wow that must feel good to drop off ugly rusty parts and get back nice shiny stuff!

Yes it does:thumbsup:

I was off today and worked in the shop most of the day. Lots of minor progress. A few steps forward and a step back :oops:

I started getting things ready for the manual conversion with the TKO600.
My first thisng to do was see if and how much I needed to drill the crank for input shaft clearance. In process of measuring I noticticed the pilot bearing I got was out of spec. I called Supercars and they are rushing another out.

I did need to bore the crank. I went to a local industrial machine tool surplus store and picked up a couple bits to drill the hard crank material. One was a 1/4" and the other .798 to give me plenty of clearance from the input shaft. I love that place $10.00 for both bits.

I knew it would never be perfect with a hand drill but I wanted to get as close as I could. To do this I set the motor on wood blocks and shimmed it up until it was level at the pan rails. I the drilled at a slow speed and used the bubble on the drill to keep it level up and down. I eyeballed the side to side by having a long bolt to the crank to reference to. About a full hour of drilling I'm sure glad that is over.

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/2869/66cutlasstires055ls8.jpg
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/7039/66cutlasstires054ll9.jpg

Since I got powdercoating back. I also got my scatter shield from them. Luckily I had read the it would need clearanced for the lower pushrod. They had already blasted but I called before it was coated. I mocked it up and trimmed it off with a plasma cutter.

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/1117/66cutlasstires050dw5.jpg

The next thing I did was check the runout of the bellhousing. Its just a hair out of recommended specs but better safe than sorry I ordered some .007 off set dowel to correct it.

I tried to remove the dowels with vise grips and a little heat but all they would do is spin. I decided to make a makeshift puller by tacking a 1/2" nut on the dowels. I then took a 1/2" bolt and another nut and pull them right out by pressing against the back side of a larger socket. They came right out.

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/2590/66cutlasstires049qw0.jpg

[gearheads78]

continued from last post do to picture limits
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/1394/66cutlasstires052lr9.jpg
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/9373/66cutlasstires051rn5.jpg


The last thing of the night was work on the front lower control arms. Iv'e done bushings and ball joints a few times but never with nice new finshed pieces. The ball joints worked out pretty good. I used duct tape and pieces of broken up paint sticks to push against. It worked out great with no damage to the finish.

I then went to the bushings and things didn't go quite as well. My first idea was to just put both bushings in and press against each other till they seat. WRONG!!! The arm started bending and when I released pressure it did not defect all the way back. Now I have to figure out a way to bend it back without damaging the finish. I've got an idea I will try Sunday when I am off again.

The next arm I did a different way and it worked great. I got a piece of 1/2" all thread to pull against. I then cut a piece of pipe to just smaller than the inside width cut it in half and wraped with tape. I then cut a piece of 3/8" plate in a circle and drilled a hole in the middle. I welded that to a 2" iron pipe coupler and wrapped with tape. Then slid the halves to keep the end of the arm from pushing together. Finally bolted it all together untill the shells were seated. Once I made the tool all 4 bushing were took less than 10 min total.

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/9479/66cutlasstires053nj1.jpg
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/7187/66cutlasstires056xb5.jpg

[gearheads78]

No progress today but the parts pile did get 4 boxes bigger :cool:

http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/6404/66cutlasstires058og2.jpg

http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/2595/66cutlasstires059fz2.jpg

[ProTouring442]

Just a question... when you checked the bell housing run out, did you rotate the crank to ensure that you were measuring the bell housing and not the hand drilled pilot bearing?

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[gearheads78]

Just a question... when you checked the bell housing run out, did you rotate the crank to ensure that you were measuring the bell housing and not the hand drilled pilot bearing?

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

The runout was measured off a long 7/16 bolt in the crank flange. Pilot hole is not for the pilot bearing. Its to clear in the input shaft. There is an adapter bearing that slides into the large register and has a bearing in the center. I hear mixed revues about them. Some say they have lasted for years with one othes have said they lost on in less than 5000 miles. I don't have the time to remove the crank and have it machined for a factory bushing so this is the only way I can go for now. The 455 will be done right with a bushing.

Here is the adapter bearing. Thanks for taking interest in my project. Its nothing compared to a lot of builds around here but its being done on a very limited budget on what little night time and weekend time I can find. :cheers: http://supercarsunlimited.com/images//10070.jpg

[dhondagod]

Thanks for taking interest in my project. Its nothing compared to a lot of builds around here but its being done on a very limited budget on what little night time and weekend time I can find. :cheers:


Looks awsome! If you want to trade budgets with me Im game. (Im jealous of the powder and plating on yours) :thumbsup:


You still going to make your PowerTour deadline? Looks like its going to be close!


Chris:cool:

[gearheads78]

Looks awsome! If you want to trade budgets with me Im game. (Im jealous of the powder and plating on yours)


You still going to make your PowerTour deadline? Looks like its going to be close!


Chris:cool:

Thanks..As for PT I am trying like hell. Power coating being a week late sure did not help things.


I had to work Satuday but I was off today and got some stuff done.

The first order of business was to see if I could fix the front control arm that I bent in the press last week. My idea worked using a long piece of all thread. The nuts were able to bend it back in to place. It was a relief not to have to find another control arm.
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/937/66cutlasstires062ts8.jpg

I was able to pick up my rear end housing on Friday night. I friend set up the new Eaton posi and a set of used GM 3.73's out of a late model Chevy truck. I made another press tool to get the upper bushings in. The LH side is so close that I had to hack off a large part of the circle to get it to clear.
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/9204/66cutlasstires061xg6.jpg
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/652/66cutlasstires060vm1.jpg

When you order SPC arms with screw in upper ball joints there come already assembled. I did not want the gold cad finish so I had them sent apart so I could get them plated silver. I found a socket but it only came in 3/4 drive so I asked the techs at my office if anyone had a rachet I could borrow. Well I got one. I am calling this the "GODZILLA" wrench.
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/2399/66cutlasstires063cv7.jpg

[gearheads78]

continued
from last post

It would be too much to ask for things to just bolt together. The upper Currie Trac arm would not get close to fitting on the LH side. I had to ruin thier nice powder coating and notch a bunch of material off the inside edge. Few coats of Semigloss spray paint and it was back in business.
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/4083/66cutlasstires064pm8.jpg

For the most part the rest of eveything went smooth. Got the new 3/8 fuel line to upgrade from the original 5/16 line so it will be ready for the future 455. All the rear suspension and part of the front suspension is now together. Also got the motor frame pads but on. Its starting to look like it might be a car again.
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/798/66cutlasstires065br7.jpg
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/5093/66cutlasstires066rf9.jpg
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/9964/66cutlasstires067kf9.jpg

[ProTouring442]

The runout was measured off a long 7/16 bolt in the crank flange. Pilot hole is not for the pilot bearing. Its to clear in the input shaft. There is an adapter bearing that slides into the large register and has a bearing in the center. I hear mixed revues about them. Some say they have lasted for years with one othes have said they lost on in less than 5000 miles. I don't have the time to remove the crank and have it machined for a factory bushing so this is the only way I can go for now. The 455 will be done right with a bushing.

Here is the adapter bearing. Thanks for taking interest in my project. Its nothing compared to a lot of builds around here but its being done on a very limited budget on what little night time and weekend time I can find. :cheers: http://supercarsunlimited.com/images//10070.jpg

Very nice! I was going to mention the "adapter" bearing, but wasn't sure if you were already using one.

Very nice project! I finally started working on mine again... maybe I'll even finish it while I am young enough to drive it! =-)

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[gearheads78]

Well guys it does not look like its going to happen. I am over the budget I gave myself and still short about $500.00 for some mis stuff I need to finish. I was fortunate enough to get myself out of dept last year and I refuse to go back in. In addition the powder coating taking an extra 8 days just threw off my already very tight schedule. I could just slam it together and still make it but I have come this far already I just don't want to cut any corners. My wife has been very understanding but my 2yo daughter is having I hard time with me comming straight home eating and going out to the garage every night for the last month so I need to spend some time with her.

I already have the time off for PT and some money set aside for the trip so I am going to supprise them both and spend a few days down in South TX at the beach.

On to project update........

When I went to assemble my rear E-brake assemblies I noticed I was missing two little pins. My guess is they fell through the screen when I had the harware cleaned up and zinc plated. The only way to get that pin is a 100.00 kit from GM.

I dicided to make them and it turned out pretty good. I borrowed one out of a friends Camaro to copy. I used 1/4" grade 8 bolts to make two new ones. I chucked the bolt up in a drill and ground off the head will a bench grinder while the drill was spinning to keep it uniform. I used a file while the drill was spinning to sneak up on the size. Then 180 sand paper and finally 400 emery cloth to polish the tips. My finished pieces are with in
.004 of the of what the factory ones are long. Few hours work was a whole lot better than $100.00 to get new ones.
http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/8306/66cutlasstires042wl0.jpg

After greasing up the front bearings and installing the hubs I slipped on the C6 rotors. I one side I could see a bad wobble. I put a dial indicator on it and it was .035 tolerence on the runout. I took that rotor to work to check it on a brake lathe and it was fine. Now I was thinking I had a bent hub so I but the indicator on it. Luckiy the problem was a high spot on the face of the hub. I few minutes with a hand file and it was level with the rest of the hub. Now the runout is only .004 on that side. Much better.
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/4539/66cutlasstires069ni1.jpg
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/6503/66cutlasstires070tj9.jpg

Only other thing I have done is finish the front suspension and steering. I ordered the wrong drag link. I did not know there were two different sizes. I ordered a 7/8 and need a 13/16. I thought to save time and $$ I cleaned up the original and installed it but it has a little play in one of the joints so its going to come back off. Now I need to oder a 13/16 link or find a pitman and idler for the 7/8 one.

The last thing I did Saturday was test fit a wheel to get an idea where to run the hard lines so the still clear the 9" wheels up front. I sure do like that last picture.
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/5452/66cutlasstires072zi5.jpg
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/3296/66cutlasstires071mc1.jpg

[ScotI]

Attaboy for thinkin' about the supportive spouse & your daughter. You've done alot in a short time so take the trip w/the family. The car & the rest of us will understand.

[gearheads78]

Attaboy for thinkin' about the supportive spouse & your daughter. You've done alot in a short time so take the trip w/the family. The car & the rest of us will understand.

I'm bummed but nothing I can do. Maybe next year the 455 will be done and I can have Power on Power Tour :yes:

Today was a bust. As far as the project. I spent the morning with my daughter and went outside mid day. I planned on building brake lines. After making one of the rear axle lines I went to flare the end. Just as the tool started to seat I heard a pop. The insert for the double flare broke :x
http://img359.imageshack.us/img359/7611/66cutlasstires093lc8.jpg

Only other thing I did was spend a few hours on the front calipers. I filed, sanded and smoothed all the machine marks and casting texture and flash. I can't wait to get these painted. They are one of my favorite things about the whole build.
http://img359.imageshack.us/img359/4514/66cutlasstires075xh7.jpg

[SteveMcqueenRules]

I reall like this build. It is how I would do it. Spend the money on the right things and on a budget.
Love the wheels and the calipers.

[gearheads78]

I reall like this build. It is how I would do it. Spend the money on the right things and on a budget.
Love the wheels and the calipers.

If you loved the wheels before what do you think now. :unibrow:

Waiting on a new hydraulic flare tool to do my brake lines. I did get the wheels painted and mounted the tires today. I can't wait to see the body down over these.

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/9310/66cutlasstires106eq0.jpg

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/8929/66cutlasstires105dw1.jpg

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/5594/66cutlasstires104vz9.jpg

[ProTouring442]

If you loved the wheels before what do you think now. :unibrow:

Waiting on a new hydraulic flare tool to do my brake lines. I did get the wheels painted and mounted the tires today. I can't wait to see the body down over these.

Dang those are sweet lookin'!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[gearheads78]

Dang those are sweet lookin'!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

Thanks I am pretty proud of them


Not too much to report today. I had to work most of the weekend but I did get in the garage a few hours tonight.

About a week ago I discovered I have a small problem as I was fitting up the rear brakes. The rotor was not centered in the caliper basket. After a little research on line I saw the other people are running washers or buying a spacer to bring out the backplate. Someone makes one intended for Camaros and Chevelles but it is 3/16" thick. I spaced mine out 3/16 with washers and it was too far. I get it very close to center on my Olds rear with .125" so I decided to make some spacers.

Now that I will bring the backplate out it creates another problem. I had thick spacers made at a machine shop to go between the factory bearing retainer and the axle seal and bearing. Now the spacer will be .125 too short. I'm not going to pay to have them made again so I made spacers for my spacers. Since I already have to cut a hole in the other spacers cut a second hole in the center first and then cut the outer ring. By doing it this way I am basicly making my bearing spacer when I cut the center out of the backplate spacer.

Here is the 1/8" plate marked up before cutting.
http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/6888/66cutlasstires107pu9.jpg

Here is the new bearing retainer spacers next to the machined spacer. It's hard to hold the plasma torch steady going arong the circle but they are close enough that a little time on the bench grinder they will be ready to use.
http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/5990/66cutlasstires108xr8.jpg

This is me cheating to make a nice straight cut with the plasma. Just clamped a piece of steal spaced away from my line so the torch cuts right on the line.
http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/4459/66cutlasstires112xs7.jpg

Here is the rough finished backplate spacer. Little bit of time with a file and it will be ready for a quick coat of paint.
http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/1107/66cutlasstires113jn9.jpg

[gearheads78]

I finally got a little done on the car today. After vacation I hurt my back and did not get anything done since. It still a little sore so I was going slow and taking it easy.

I the task I needed to accomplish is to build brake lines from scratch. i am switching to 3/16" front to rear line to match what was on the car the the brakes came off of. Pre-made lines only come in 1/4" so I just ordered 20' of stainless 3/16. I think it all came out good. I used the factory retainers and added a few of my own. The are Krugel line clamps I picked up at a local street rod shop.

I was origially going to run a 67 dual res. distribution block with a Wilwood proportioning valve. I changes plans when I found that Summit sells a block with a build in valve. I did not want to mount it showing in the engine compartment so I mounted it under the car. I made a bracket thar bolted to the original gear selector bracket holes in the frame.

Made a template out of cardboard to get an idea of what I wanted.
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/9582/66cutlasstires132fg8.jpg

I then cut it out of 1/8" plate with a plasma cutter
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/766/66cutlasstires131zw3.jpg

After drilling, grinding, shaping with a torch in the vise this is the finished piece ready for paint
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/4702/66cutlasstires133ve4.jpg

Finished in semi-gloss black and installed.
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/2924/66cutlasstires136en0.jpg

[gearheads78]

Here are the rest of the brake lines installed from the block back. I will try to do the fronts Sunday
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/2892/66cutlasstires135rw8.jpg

http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/2192/66cutlasstires134so0.jpg

[gearheads78]

Things for been going slow the last few weeks. My boss has been on vacation so I have been working extra to keep up with his duties and mine. Last weekend I selected to completly clean up and rearrange the garage instead of working on the car. It was something I should have done before I started but I was in such a hurry to get going I didn't. Its now laid out much better to tackle a big project like this.

Today I finally got a little work done. I am a little gun shy on my back still so I have been working slow and paying much more attention to how I move and bend.

I did lots of odds and ends that are not worthy of pictures. I did manage to build the front brake lines and get the motor/trans mocked up in the chassis to measure for the driveshaft. I still have to get the calipers powder coated and have the driveshaft built. Once thats done the rolling chassis can be finished up.

The boss did stop in and check on progress. Number one question from her has been "Daddy when are you going to finish the 'vertible" She is ready to start riding again.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/5858/66cutlasstires142ps7.jpg

When I built the rear brake lines my cheapie parts store bender got the job done. The the front I needed some sharper bends and much closer together than my bender is capable of. I scrounged up some 3/4" all thread and nuts to make up a quicky home made bender. It worked great.
http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/5517/66cutlasstires137yb6.jpg

Here is the finished front lines. I will wait for the body to be back on the chassis before building the feed lines.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/8524/66cutlasstires138tr7.jpg

One thing I was not sure about has how the rear crossmember was going to work out. After mocking it up with the tranmission it place I found out its going to be a cake walk. I will be able to use one exhisting hole and drill one new hole in the frame braket on each side.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/3120/66cutlasstires144ct3.jpg

Even thought it was only temporary to measure for a driveshaft it sure was nice to see a motor sitting in place.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/9069/66cutlasstires143js6.jpg

[V8TV]

This is great stuff! I might have missed it, but what did it cost you for the zinc plating on the hood hinges, etc.?

[gearheads78]

This is great stuff! I might have missed it, but what did it cost you for the zinc plating on the hood hinges, etc.?

Thank you. I took the original big bunch of stuff and it was 275.00 I was so happy with how it turned out I took another small amount and it was another 75.00

I am still happy with al the nuts and bolts in both colors and most of the silver stuff. Some of the black parts I don't think I would do again. There is some yellowish staining showing up on some of the parts. It started out as just barely showing but seems to be getting worse in places. Its almost like its leaching right out of the metal. I have not tried with any kind of solvents yet but it does not some off by just rubbing it.

[V8TV]

Thanks for the reply. I've done some black oxiding before and found that rust can come back and make things look a little tarnished. I'll have to seek out a local plater to chat. :thumbsup:

[gearheads78]

Its hard to find a place to stop LOL

I was originally going to just do a quick wash and rattle can the firewall. Since I no longer have a target date I took it a little farther. The rest of the engine compartment will look so clean and detailed so I have to make this pretty too.

Used a heat gun and a wood paint stick to get the old undercoating and black body sealer off. The paint stick works good and does not gouge the metal. I left all the original white seam sealer.

I used a DA with 120 everywhere I could and finished by hand in all the nooks and crannies. I then shot it with 2K direct to metal primer. I have some Eastwood chassis black but its laquer and I was afraid if might attack the primer. I will try to find some paint this week.

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/7840/66cutlasstires145ys8.jpg

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/4586/66cutlasstires171px1.jpg

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/5839/66cutlasstires172fl3.jpg

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/612/66cutlasstires174au1.jpg

[SteveMcqueenRules]

If you loved the wheels before what do you think now. :unibrow:

Waiting on a new hydraulic flare tool to do my brake lines. I did get the wheels painted and mounted the tires today. I can't wait to see the body down over these.


Those wheels look way better now! It is a classic design and the painted details emphasize this and give them more depth. Nice!

[V8TV]

Its hard to find a place to stop LOL

That's the problem.. "might-as-well" syndrome..

[gearheads78]

That's the problem.. "might-as-well" syndrome..
Tell me about it :yes: The real sad part is now after this I don't think I will ever be able to build a car and not go this far every time.




This week after work I have been getting some little parts painted. Rattle canned I few things but did not com out as nice as I wanted so I am using real paint from a gun.


First sand blasting all the old paint and surface rust. I then been hitting with 120 DA to smooth out the basted parts but still leave some bite for the primer. I robbed a floor shift column out of a 66 Lemans. It was really nasty field car piece. Its looking better than new.

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/2834/66cutlasstires180ga9.jpg

Next was a couple coats of 2K urethan primer followed by 400 paper to be ready for final paint

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/5276/66cutlasstires182fa0.jpg

Here are a couple of finished pieces. I am very happy with my results for never painting anything with a gun before. I've used it to shoot some primer but thats all. This is good practice before I paint the firewall.

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/9940/66cutlasstires181ap0.jpg

[waynieZ]

Looks very good you did a nice job with the paint gun. Keep us updated.
Wayne

[gearheads78]

Looks very good you did a nice job with the paint gun. Keep us updated.
Wayne

thanks...


Painted some more parts this afternoon. These turned out even better than the first batch. With all the odd shapes I have painted I think painting a big panel will be a piece of cake.

steering column top pieces
http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/9847/66cutlasstires184oz0.jpg

power steering tank
http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/319/66cutlasstires186rc5.jpg

heater box
http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/570/66cutlasstires185iw6.jpg

[gearheads78]

Not much of an update as far as progress but did overcome a big hurtle today. I sold the wifes Tahoe so several small parts to buy and, plating and last little bit of powder coating can be done. I mentioned before I got myself out of debt last year. Its been so tempting to just order the stuff I need and pay for it later but I have just been patiently waiting.

I did decide to paint the gas tank since you will be able to see it from the back of the car. Since this was a Northern car it had a ton of undercoating. The normal method of heating up the coating to get off was not the best idea on a gas tank. I tryed several methods but in the end a razor blade on a windshield scaper was the fastest method.

It still took the better part of and afternoon to get it cleaned off. The blade left gouges in the metal So I primed with a heavy fill, blocked with 180 reprimed and wet sanding with 600.

I just finished painting it with dark gray metalic (same as wheel background) and semigloss clear. I think it turned out great. I will have the factory straps plated silver for a nice contrast and detail.

http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/2152/66cutlasstires207ci4.jpg

http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/8982/66cutlasstires211tr9.jpg

http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/3729/66cutlasstires212sx8.jpg

[jws350]

There is something very wrong with joe-touring, and I like it :-) Would a full build on a 90 LX notchback be considered a pro touring car? They are climbing on 20 years old.................

[ScotI]

Tank turned out really nice.

[gearheads78]

Tank turned out really nice.

Thanks here is a little more. I'm letting the paint dry.

Thought I would come in a soak up some A/C. My finger tips are sore from sanding all the hard to get at pieces of the firewall.

I found the color of paint I wanted by stopping off at a local street rod builder Sasche Rod Shop. The painter there was nice enough to walk me through the shop to see if I could point out the sheen I was after. I pointed out something and he gave me the PPG sheet of exactly how he mixed it. I really like it.

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/56/66cutlasstires213vs3.jpg

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/5136/66cutlasstires214mc3.jpg

[ScotI]

I found the color of paint I wanted by stopping off at a local street rod builder Sasche Rod Shop. The painter there was nice enough to walk me through the shop to see if I could point out the sheen I was after. I pointed out something and he gave me the PPG sheet of exactly how he mixed it. I really like it.
Who's painting their stuff now? I haven't talked to them since Autorama in Feb....

[gearheads78]

Who's painting their stuff now? I haven't talked to them since Autorama in Feb....

I forgot his name. I know several guys in the front but not the ones in the shop.

[V8TV]

The progress looks great! Keep up the great work!

[gearheads78]

The progress looks great! Keep up the great work!

Thanks... how is the Turbo Olds comming along. I have not seen any updates latley.

[V8TV]

Working on it now. In the middle of a zillion things at this point... body is done with filler, and it gets spray polyester this week, then more sanding. We'll have more updates soon.

[gearheads78]

Looking for opinons or suggestions

The few std transmission throttle linkages I have been able to find are way out of my price range. I had an idea to just trim down the pot metal piece getting rid of the electrical part and refinishing to look like it was never altered. After disecting it I just could not figure out a way to trim it down and still keep its structual integrity and the needed stops that are built in to the piece.

I then had the idea to just reverse engineer the piece and just make it from scratch. I whipped it up out of wood to get an idea of how it will look. What do you guys think? Leave it as is, change it a little or start over? The is the side the upper part of the linkage will be attached to and pivot on.

http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/1568/66cutlasstires217cr9.jpg

http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/9499/66cutlasstires218jr1.jpg

http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/4892/66cutlasstires219nv8.jpg

[ProTouring442]

Ok, I give.... what in the world is it and why do you need it?

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[gearheads78]

Ok, I give.... what in the world is it and why do you need it?

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

66 uses linkage for the throttle instead of cable. The auto cars have a built in electric kickdown and converter switch for the switch pitch converter. Thats what the pot metal piece is. The 4-speed cars dont use the electric part. I did not want the big ugly switch that won't be plugged in to anything and I don't have $200.00 to spend on 4 speen linkage.

[BallnRods]

measuring for front and rear wheel clearance

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/2079/66cutlasstires009tq7.jpg
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/2559/66cutlasstires010vu9.jpg

Sorry, I missed this build until now. You are making some great progress. I'd love to see it in person. & Props on that F-ing genius homemade wheel clearance measuring thingamajig. I just went through trying to measure backspacing for my new wheels & thought about making something similar but, I found it easier to find someone else who has already done the measuring on their car. You probably don’t have that convenience being this is the only 66 Cutlass I’ve ever seen get this treatment. I’ll be keeping an eye on this build. I love the builds that are different.

Oh yeah, that is me with the 1973 Mustang on DFWStangs username: Phat-Stang.

[ProTouring442]

66 uses linkage for the throttle instead of cable. The auto cars have a built in electric kickdown and converter switch for the switch pitch converter. Thats what the pot metal piece is. The 4-speed cars dont use the electric part. I did not want the big ugly switch that won't be plugged in to anything and I don't have $200.00 to spend on 4 speen linkage.

Just hit a salvage yard and pull a cable style unit from a later car. If you go early-mid 70's the pedal should match up pretty well.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[gearheads78]

Sorry, I missed this build until now. You are making some great progress. I'd love to see it in person. & Props on that F-ing genius homemade wheel clearance measuring thingamajig. I just went through trying to measure backspacing for my new wheels & thought about making something similar but, I found it easier to find someone else who has already done the measuring on their car. You probably don’t have that convenience being this is the only 66 Cutlass I’ve ever seen get this treatment. I’ll be keeping an eye on this build. I love the builds that are different.

Oh yeah, that is me with the 1973 Mustang on DFWStangs username: Phat-Stang.

Thanks I hope to have it out and about as soon as I can. I'm sure you will see it at one of the local cruises or shows. I will watch for you on DFWstangs

[gearheads78]

I took the last week off on the car. I can aross a deal on a 01 Z28 with a blown motor. Worked on cleaning up and detailing it. Sold in 6 days and made a few bucks I can put back in the Olds.

Finally got a little work done tonight. Mostly odds and ends cleaning parts for future install.

I had a couple tries to get something I like and I and now happy with how the throtte piece is comming out. Still need to smooth it out and get it ready for refinish but you can get the idea of how it will look. The pot metal piece is what will be replaced.

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/9756/66cutlasstires215ja3.jpg

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/7758/66cutlasstires240xx4.jpg[/img]

[gearheads78]

Today I dropped the last of the stuff I need plated off to the industrial plater I used before. I picked up my calipers a few days ago from the coater.

Boys and girls don't try this at home. I now have so much time in these front calipers its not even funny. About 2 hours sanding and shaping. About 4-5 hours with an xatco knife cuting the high heat tape for the coater and another 6-7 hours with the smallest dremel bit I have ever seen (apox 1/16") and xacto knife trimming the coating out of the letters and getting the masking tape out. My vision is finally a reality and I don't have to worry about seeing 50 cars with the same aftermarket brakes.

Drum roll please...So what do you think?

http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/8949/66cutlasstires245ra8.jpg

[kadettcqp]

They look very nice! When you want something really special that noone else has, you gotta put some money, time and idea into it. But the final result is awesome!

[ProTouring442]

Nice!!!!!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[gearheads78]

Thanks guys. Can't wait to see them behind my wheels

[gearheads78]

Real progress today


Got the pistons back in the calipers and got them all ready to install. I need to pick up some pads this week.
http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/7853/66cutlasstires251ud7.jpg

I got the belhousing mocked up one more time with the .007 offset dowels. Its now right under the specs recomended by the manufacture. They say .005 and I am at .004
Don't buy the Lakewood brand offset dowels. Mine were bigger than the hole by about .003
Went and got Moroso ones and they were right on.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/6016/66cutlasstires246vh1.jpg

Installed the adapter pilot bearing to use in an auto crank. I have read mixed revues about these. Hopefully it will last 6-8 months until the 455 is built.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/3294/66cutlasstires254tb5.jpg

Using a Centerforce DF clutch set and a McLeod ajustable pivot ball.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/4349/66cutlasstires252af9.jpg

Finally out of the box and bolted to its new home.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/9848/66cutlasstires255ol3.jpg

[gearheads78]

Clutch fork needs to be 5-7 degrees toward the front. The angle was achieved using th adjustable ball. Notice how far the stud from the ball sticks out. Once marked it was pulled back apart to cut the excess off.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/295/66cutlasstires256fc0.jpg

MMMMMMMM....... 5-speed finally in place
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/2134/66cutlasstires257xb1.jpg

Now we are cookn'
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/8772/66cutlasstires258hy6.jpg
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/1217/66cutlasstires260to8.jpg

[gearheads78]

Refurbished and redesigned throttle linkage done tonight. Another part with way too much time in.

before

http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/7149/66cutlasstires215mm7.jpg
http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/708/66cutlasstires220xj1.jpg


after

http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/5257/66cutlasstires262yq2.jpg
http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/5271/66cutlasstires261vj8.jpg

[waynieZ]

Maybe you think too much time but it looks well worth it.

[gearheads78]

Maybe you think too much time but it looks well worth it.

Thanks

I don't really think its too much time. I just can't stand not being able to drive the car yet. Some days I want to just throw the rest together. :yes:

[gearheads78]

Brakes are on and now the rolling chassis is basicly complete. A few things to deal with in the body and then its time to finally start putting it all back together. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/3429/66cutlasstires263gp5.jpg

http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/8674/66cutlasstires264ef2.jpg

http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/206/66cutlasstires266if1.jpg

http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/9703/66cutlasstires265bz0.jpg

[waynieZ]

Your lucky most of my partsare still in boxes

[gearheads78]

Your lucky most of my partsare still in boxes

I was like that for 6 months of collecting parts before I started



Got a little done this afternoon. Curiosity has been killing me as to how this original paint will turn out if I spend a little time on it. Well I did a little test spot and it going to come out a lot better than I thought it might.

This is a quick before and after of how it will look.
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/5043/66cutlasstires282ad2.jpg
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/4628/66cutlasstires283xg1.jpg


The main thing I wanted to do today was fix the RH rear body mount. I parted out the most rusty 67 442 convertible I have ever seen a few months before starting this build. Not one body bolt did not come right out in that car but my rust free 66 had the RH rear bolt spin on me. I cut it off with a sawsall
the day I took the body off.

After thinking about it I decided to go through the bottom to keep from disturbing the perfect original paint in the trunk. I cut the piece out with a 1/16" wheel which was the smallest I could find. It still made the gap a lot larger than I wanted but it worked out in the end. I had to fill the big gap and I suck at welding upside down so the repair is not very pretty but it will work.
http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/8395/66cutlasstires271ci5.jpg


After cutting out the pieces I blasted it off and put it in a vise to compress the cage back together so the square nut would not spin. I welded a nut to the piece of bolt and was able to get it right out while still hot.
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/5575/66cutlasstires273od2.jpg

[gearheads78]

To help keep the same thing from happening again I decided to brace the cage a little by welding a coulpe pieces if 1/8" scrap.
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/183/66cutlasstires275is8.jpg

I wanted to get it welded back in as flush as possible. So I used weld studs to give myself a handle to push or pull.
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/4817/66cutlasstires276dr4.jpg

Other than dressing the welds here it is finished up.
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/2990/66cutlasstires280im4.jpg

[ScotI]

Nice job on all aspects!

[gearheads78]

Thanks man. I hope to be showing it off in person soon and you can tell me what you think.

[gearheads78]

And she inches closer

A little was done today got the dash, 4 speed pedals, and heater box together on the inside and the firewall mostly together on the outside. Also got the gas tank back in place. I then finished assembing the floor shift column I am converting to. Working with all the new painted areas today was pretty nerve racking. Not near a forgiving as the powder coating. Made a nick here and there but not anything anyone will even notice.

The last thing I was working on tonight was driveline angles. Ended up having to raise the back of the transmission 1/2" to get a 2.25* front and 2.5* rear working angle. Thanks go out to Andrew with the GTO for posting this link and talking about this in his build. It helped me figure it out quicky.
http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_help/html/Diagnosis/Propshaft/Propshaft_Angles.htm

I wanted to make sure that was done before I get the body back on. The last thing I need to raise the floor to clear the trans and then not have enough clearance to get the driveline right.

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/8360/66cutlasstires289qi6.jpg

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/5677/66cutlasstires287jc1.jpg

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/5088/66cutlasstires286mq5.jpg

[gearheads78]

Don't know if it was the scatter shield or the aftermarket shift arm or combo of both but there was not near enough clearance for the shift fork to move back. Had to spend a few minutes with a die grinder.
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/9650/66cutlasstires290zt6.jpg

I opened the new body mounts for the first time today. One mount on each side would not fit. The hole in the frame was a lot smaller on that one mount. I don't know if if it was a misboxed product but I did not want to wait a week to get the right part. My first thought was to trim the frame out to match the other holes but I did not want to cut the powder coating. I then decided to cut the rubber down. I think I cam up with a pretty cleaver way to do it after brain storming a little while.

I first measured the size of the old original bushing. I then found a 3/8 fender washer that was close to the size but still apox .075 big. I took a long 3/8 bolt and nut and tightened it all together. I then chucked it up in the drill press. With a file I cut the washer down to the exact size I wanted to cut the rubber to. Now I had a perfect guide. I took the long 3/8 bolt with my new resized washer and another washer on the back side. I centered the guide washer on the rubber bushing and tighened it snug enough to hold. Chucked up in the drill and carefully used a razor blade to trim the rubber pefectly to the size of the washer. Hear is a cut one next to an uncut.
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/453/66cutlasstires291uw2.jpg

I wanted to be really close when setting down the body. So I used two plumb bobs. One front and one in the oppisite rear corner. I little scooting around on the jack and the frame was exactly where I wanted it.
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/198/66cutlasstires292km7.jpg

[gearheads78]

My plan was to always try to use this factory console I picked up off EBAY last year. I used a hole saw to get the shifter stub though the floor. I then drew and outline of where the console would sit. Well long story short I will not be using the console. Once the minimal cutting was done to clean the transmission I was well outside my outline for the console. I could still make it work but it would require a good bit of modification to the console. I paid way to much for this thing to risk messing it up. Its probably for the best. My daughter likes to walk between the seats from the back to get out of the car. When she stepped on it and broke it I might has had to kill her :lol: I just going to put it up for sale so someone with a original car can use it.
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/1398/66cutlasstires294ju3.jpg

Here is the bare minimum cutting it took to clear the Tremec TKO600. If you do not have your transmisson shimmed up 1/2" in back like mine you you may not have to cut as much. I plan on cleaning up the cuts and start covering it up Sunday
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/368/66cutlasstires295ea9.jpg

Don't think I need any expanation here
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/6250/66cutlasstires296po8.jpg

-Richard

[ScotI]

Freakin sweet. You're moving right along now so it won't be long.

[ProTouring442]

Lookin' good! Just think, if you get it done quickly enough, you can head up to MD and help me finish mine! :D

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[V8TV]

Looks great! It's always nice to get the body back on the frame!

[gearheads78]

Its not officially on the frame yet. I had it down to cut the floor so I had to snap a pic. It getting close though. :yes:

[gearheads78]

Got a little done today. Once I finish the floor its time to put it all together to drive.

Cleaned up next to the hole with scotch brite disc
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/6971/66cutlasstires297yg3.jpg

Made it out of poster board first.
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/9199/66cutlasstires300zi2.jpg

Don't be jelous of my high dollar metal forming equipment.
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/4523/66cutlasstires301eg1.jpg

First piece in.
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/5176/66cutlasstires302jd9.jpg

Starting to take shape. Still need to make the back piece and finish welding it all up.
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/4394/66cutlasstires311rw1.jpg

[oldzzy]

Looks awsome :thumbsup:

[gearheads78]

Looks awsome :thumbsup:

Thanks


Its been a little while since I worked on it. I've had 30 min here and there but today I spent most of the day. Finshed welding up the tunnel, dressed the welds, cut the hole, smoothed a little mud on the seams, and sprayed it in bare metal epoxy.

Now I just need to spray it in black and the tunnel is done. Next up buff and clean of the body and its ready to back on bolt on.

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/200/66cutlass001mo8.jpg

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/1005/66cutlass004xa6.jpg

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/8866/66cutlass006ob9.jpg

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/5707/66cutlass007nd3.jpg

[V8TV]

Nice work on the tunnel!

[awr68]

Looks great!! :thumbsup:

[gearheads78]

Thanks gents' :yes:

I can't do it....I just can't put the body on with out making the paint and trim as best best as I possibly can. After painting the tunnel I stripped all the trim off the body. Going to do everything I can to make the original paint look good/ then I will detail all the trim. Just digging a little deeper. :willy:


http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/640/66cutlass010qq7.jpg

http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/8671/66cutlass008kg2.jpg

[gearheads78]

Going to feel much better now. Got a good bit done to the car today. Started by washing it down good and masking everything off to keep from slinging compound everywhere. I sanded it all with 2000 just enough to smooth things out a bit. The factory paint still has a good bit of peel but I did not want to risk cutting through so I was very conservtive in my sanding. I then washed it again to get the sanding sludge off. Finally I buffed it all with a wool pad and 3M Perfect It II compund and washed it again. I still need to polish with a foam pad to remove the swirls. Its still not going to be anywhere near as nice as new paint but its at least 70% better than it was.

Everyone needs a color sanding assistant.
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/2531/66cutlass011hg4.jpg

All sanded...no turning back now
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/2016/66cutlass012fj6.jpg

And buffed
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/7636/66cutlass017jb8.jpg
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/4711/66cutlass018mt9.jpg
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/6931/66cutlass019nw6.jpg

[OLDFLM]

That reflection in the last pic looks pretty good to me my friend!! :yes:

[waynieZ]

Nice job on the paint, it looks good to me. Ve3ry nice shine!

[RECOVERY ROOM]

Nice to see something different getting built:thumbsup:

[gearheads78]

Thanks guys. I went out after dinner and worked a little more. Started on the polish with a foam waffle pad. The two panels I did cleared up all the haze and fine scratches from the wool pad. Its too dark to get good pics but I will say this 42 year old paint is going to look damn good from 5 feet away and farther. :yes: If it was not for the top surfaces having little crazing and tiny cracks all over I would not even have to paint it later.

[waynieZ]

I look forward to seeing the pictures

[ProTouring442]

Very nice!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[gearheads78]

Off work today for Turkey day so I got the body back home finally.

http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/9992/partsandtools002no4.jpg

http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/1967/partsandtools003zj9.jpg

[gearheads78]

Well the holidays are over and I finally got in the shop a little this weekend. Managed to get the valve covers sanded and repainted. Then was carefully fitting and assembling the painted and powder coated parts on the motor. Here is a before I started pic and what its looking like now,

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/6792/66cutlasstires024qm9.jpg

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/4346/partsandtools036ku3.jpg

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/2423/partsandtools038cy4.jpg

[OLDFLM]

Looks GREAT my friend! It won't be long now... (c:]
V/R,
Ty

[thedude327]

Just finished reading the previous 12 pages and all I can say is Fantastic job !!! Your attention to detail is what makes your build. Watching as you work out a solution to a problem and move on to the next item is the way to do it. Too many guys get bogged down with problems, but with some time and creative thinking, there is nothing that can't be sorted out. Actually, that's where the true fun of the build is.

Paul

[gearheads78]

Thanks Paul the problem with being anal about details is everytime I make something right then something next to it no longer does. :willy:

[radrambler]

car is looking really nice .good job all the refinishing :thumbsup:


tom

[gearheads78]

car is looking really nice .good job all the refinishing :thumbsup:


tom

Thanks Tom

Lots of little preparation stuff going on right now so not much to report. I did pull the front suspension apart today again. The black zinc plating that came on the cross shafts on the upper control arms was rusting just from the humitity. It was driveing me crazy so I pulled them off and cleaned up, primed and painted them.

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8369/partsandtools036copyhk4.jpg

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/1604/cutlass001ur4.jpg

[gearheads78]

I also have been tinkering with the wiper motor this week. Ever since I was a little kid I have had a problem with having to take things apart to see how it was put together. As an adult in my mid 30's I am still just as bad.

Over all it was not too hard to get apart. The hardest part was getting the staked motor cover off But it was a waste of time. There is a bronze bushing with a plate welded over it so it can't be removed for plating. It came off pretty easy after I spend time trying things that didn't work. What did work is clamping around the magnetic body with a chain vice grip wrench and clamping the wrench in a vice. I then used a rubber strap wrench to turn the cap when pulling outward and it spun off after getting it going.

http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/1958/partsandtools042kl9.jpg

http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/5211/partsandtools053zk6.jpg

Still waiting on some plating to finish but got the hard part done today.
Cleaned everything real good in the parts washer and blasted the aluminum with walnut shells. I painted the motor cover and put the main housing back on the the motor and cover. I then resoldered the motor wires I had disconnected. The hardest part came next. No matter how hard I tried I could not get the mail shaft, white gear and the drive plate down far enough to seat the snap ring. After some head scratching I decided to sacrifice a socket by making a window. It worked perfect pressing it with a c-clamp and was back together in seconds when I did that.

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/8289/cutlass002oa8.jpg

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/6561/cutlass003ff5.jpg

[gearheads78]

I was off today so I was able to get in the shop a little this afternoon.

I got the original carpet back in. Its a little short now on the sides do to the taller tunnel but it will do for now. Installed the shifter boot after that. If anyone uses this boot make sure to mark you holes with the metal retainer plate. I used the rubber boot and that was a mistake. Some of the holes did not quite line up so I had to get creative with some of the screw angles.

I then started wireing up the TKO600 too. After thinking about how to do it the best way I used the reverse and neutral switches on the transmission to control ground on a couple relays. I went through the facory firewall grommet to the inside of the car. I was able to position the relays so I did not have to cut or splice the original wires at all. Just pulled the wires out of the plug ends and on to the relay. If I ever have a neutral saftey relay go out the reverse relay is right there so I have a back up so i am not standed for mor than a minute. Power to the relays will come from the power window spade in the fuse block.

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/7871/stuff007dv2.jpg

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9023/stuff001br6.jpg

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/2518/stuff003fm5.jpg

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6614/stuff002na2.jpg[/img]

[gearheads78]

Moving along..

Well a while back I had a horrible rechome job done Mr G's on a real floor shift gauge bezel I had picked up. I still have the stripped one I picked back up from them but I had an idea. My original column shift bezel is in excellent condition and I happen to have a junk dash out of a 67. After a little measuring I discovered there is one place next the the light switch thats just big enough to cut out a section of the groved material.

I cut it out was a little demmel saw and then got it close with a belt sander. Final fitting was done by hand. The very corners were into the smooth area so I cut groves by hand with a tiny file. Once I get a little touch up paint on it you will never know. 8)

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8916/stuff018.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/6840/stuff017.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/7352/stuff019.jpg

I wanted a little bit of custom touch to the outside of the car and here is what I did. The factory light silver in some of the side mouldings was chipped up and rubbed off so it needed to be redone. I still had some of the dark gray the wheels were done in so that is the color the inserts of the mouldings now. The gray and black with polished stainless looks killer against the red.


http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/5859/stuff021.jpg

http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/5808/stuff028.jpg

http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/9145/stuff030.jpg

[city_ofthe_south]

connecting the wheel color into the trim is awesome. The little details make all the difference man.

[thedude327]

The custom paint on the trim molding sounds killer. Any pics of the molding installed on the car ? Great build !!!

Paul

[gearheads78]

Thanks guys. I only finished the black thin stripe on the ones in the pic last night. I hope to have the mouldings finished and back on the car this weekend. Its a rare weekend where I will be both off work and the family will be out of town so me and the Cutlass have a weekend long date.:yes:

connecting the wheel color into the trim is awesome. The little details make all the difference man.

The custom paint on the trim molding sounds killer. Any pics of the molding installed on the car ? Great build !!!

Paul

[ScotI]

This is hot-rodding @ it's best 'cause you don't get stuff like this out of a catalog. Clever use of bringing what's already available up to date while adding to that 'detailed' element of the build.

[gearheads78]

This is hot-rodding @ it's best 'cause you don't get stuff like this out of a catalog. Clever use of bringing what's already available up to date while adding to that 'detailed' element of the build.

Thanks Scott. I hope someday it will see the road again and you can check it out for yourself.:yes:

[XLexusTech]

Nice! doublel nice that the kids get involved. Building not just cars but future Hot rodders!

[radrambler]

bill

cool stuff ...keep the pics coming...this is what its all about being creative and detailing ....not just blowing coin....:thumbsup:


tom

[specialized199]

Olds! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

[gearheads78]

Olds! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Thanks:yes:

Finished the moulding today. Letting them dry overnight and they are ready to put on.

Who whould have ever thought all those years as a kid building models would be a talent I could still use 25 years later. LOL

I got a quote from a pin-stiper the other day and it was a good bit more than I wanted to spend so I stopped at Hobby Lobby on the way home. I experimented with several techniques but what worked best was mask off the area with fine line tape. I then practicly pored the paint in. I redipped the brush dripping wet every1/2 inch or so. Keeping it this thick really let it self level smooth. My best results were to take the tape off as soon as I was done putting the paint on. Little bit of clean up here and there with thinner and they turned out great. This was a really tedious process but worth it IMO

This is one of those ideas that popped in my head and I really like the results of the finished mouldings. This mod is a close second to my calipers which is still my favorite mod. In the first pic you can see the original silver on the clip next to the new gray to compare them.

http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/2461/stuff032.jpg

http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/4750/stuff033.jpg

http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/7616/stuff037.jpg

[ProTouring442]

A lot of times it is the subtle little things that really make the difference. I love the new look on your moldings!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[gearheads78]

A lot of times it is the subtle little things that really make the difference. I love the new look on your moldings!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

Thanks Bill....




Well since I had the paint out I decided to give the emblems a tune up. See the before and after.

So here are the mouldings on the car. Something must be wrong with my camera because the pics suck. Its as best I can do for now. I love it!!
Just need the back down about 4" and it will be perfect.

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/3159/stuff039.jpg

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/9404/stuff041.jpg

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/935/stuff043.jpg

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/6302/stuff044.jpg

[gearheads78]

Well I have made a new goal and this one I intend to make. I can't go any deeper without painting it so I should not be doing anything else that will slow me down. Hot Rod Power Tour is just too far away this year so the plan is to take it to Goodguys Nationals in Columbus OH mid July.

Got the rear of the car trimmed out today. Also got the front brakes on the car.

I came up with a pretty nice solution for the Ebrake. I originally bought the Lokar universal rear kit and the connector cable for the front designed for thier after market pedal. I wanted to use the original pedal so I figured I would make it work some how. Well the hole in the floor is almost as big as the connector cable end piece. I would have needed to weld up the floor and drill a new hole. Well I thought about the rear cable sleeve and tried it. It worked perfect. I called Lockar and they gave me a part# to order just a rear cable sleeve. Installed with a little strip caulk and its like it came this way. Still have to figure how to mount the cables under the car. I should have that done my next day off.

Finally installed the bumper I paid 50.00 extra for a rush jod to be ready by last May. LOL
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/5268/stuff048.jpg

The calipers will look sweet rolling down the highway.
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/2409/stuff051i.jpg

here you can see the difference in the cable end. The bolt style intended for the rear worked perfect.
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/7742/stuff052.jpg

installed in the firewall factory hole.
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/4821/stuff054.jpg

[gearheads78]

Finshed up setting up the custom E-brake system with the factory pedal. Works perfect. Ended up making a braket to drop down the front cable bracket so it pulls dead straight on the rear cable brakets. I took lots of consideration and where to run the rear cables so they will move as needed but not get in the way of anything moving in the suspension. I used stainless clamps picked up at a local street rod shop to attach them to the frame. I'm pleased with the looks and function.

The next task was to center the rear with the upper control arms and finally check tire and wheel clearance at full suspention travel and at ride height. Well my home made measuring tool worked like a charm. Wheel wells are as full as they can be and I didn't cut a thing. I may need some very slight clearancing with a hammer on one of the inner wheel wells but I will have to drive it to see first. Of course I had to snap a shot of the future ride stance.

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/3500/stuff060o.jpg

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/7751/stuff061.jpg

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/424/stuff062.jpg

[gearheads78]

Well todays update should really be called a back date because I made major negative progress.

I made my last brake lines that go from the master to the prop. valve on the frame. Also made a small bracket that bolts to the pedal bracket stud on the firewall to keep the lines from getting in to the steering colum or clutch linkage. All is well so far. Things went down hill from there.

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/6273/stuff068.jpg

This the first time I have ever used stainless line. I had heard its a little harder to to get to seal but I had no idea how bad it was going to be. I started to bleed the brake lines and saw some fluid dripping on the floor from the prop. valve. I then start looking close at all the connections and more than 1/2 of them are leaking to one extent or another. :( I manage to to get most of them sealed up by tightening and loosening several times but some the the lines on the prop valve I could not get to without removing the starter which it the big PITA with the lakewood scatter shield. To remove the starter I had to disconnect the clutch linkage too.

I got the last of the lines sealed up and a nice hard pedal so it was time to put it all back together. When I got to the clutch linkage I noticed the fork was kind of flopping around like the spring had slid off the ball. No big deal slid it back right? NOT!! I tried for 5 min feeling for it with the fork to slid it on but it never would catch. I finally resorted to a light and a mirror so I could see up in there and could believe my eyes. There was no spring clip. Brand new fork and the spring had broken off at the rivet :mad: Now the motor has to come out again which is not a huge deal in itself but I have to wait for another fork to be shipped to me.

At this point I needed to just get away so I took the wife and daughter to the park for a couple hours. We got back and I wanted to get a little more done before it got dark. I was bolting down one of the front seats and I over did it on one of the studs. POP!!! Its broke now the carpet has to come out on the drivers side so I can weld a new stud. Its just wasn't my day.

[ProTouring442]

This the first time I have ever used stainless line. I had heard its a little harder to to get to seal but I had no idea how bad it was going to be. I started to bleed the brake lines and saw some fluid dripping on the floor from the prop. valve. I then start looking close at all the connections and more than 1/2 of them are leaking to one extent or another. :( I manage to to get most of them sealed up by tightening and loosening several times but some the the lines on the prop valve I could not get to without removing the starter which it the big PITA with the lakewood scatter shield. To remove the starter I had to disconnect the clutch linkage too.

I got the last of the lines sealed up and a nice hard pedal so it was time to put it all back together. When I got to the clutch linkage I noticed the fork was kind of flopping around like the spring had slid off the ball. No big deal slid it back right? NOT!! I tried for 5 min feeling for it with the fork to slid it on but it never would catch. I finally resorted to a light and a mirror so I could see up in there and could believe my eyes. There was no spring clip. Brand new fork and the spring had broken off at the rivet :mad: Now the motor has to come out again which is not a huge deal in itself but I have to wait for another fork to be shipped to me.

At this point I needed to just get away so I took the wife and daughter to the park for a couple hours. We got back and I wanted to get a little more done before it got dark. I was bolting down one of the front seats and I over did it on one of the studs. POP!!! Its broke now the carpet has to come out on the drivers side so I can weld a new stud. Its just wasn't my day.

There are copper "gaskets" that you can use to seal up the lines. I've never used them, but I hear that they work well.

As for all the difficulties, been there! I once installed a new oil pump on my old Chevy 409, a job that necessitated pulling the engine. As I was tightening the alternator belt, I spotted the oil pump drive shaft sitting on the bench... Wasn't a good day.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[gearheads78]

There are copper "gaskets" that you can use to seal up the lines. I've never used them, but I hear that they work well.

As for all the difficulties, been there! I once installed a new oil pump on my old Chevy 409, a job that necessitated pulling the engine. As I was tightening the alternator belt, I spotted the oil pump drive shaft sitting on the bench... Wasn't a good day.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

Thats what i will use on my next one.
Doing a search I came across Jeff Lilly Restoration web site. It shows to use the copper washers on stainless lines and they seal right up.

from his site

33. These tiny copper gaskets go in between the fittings and flare for that extra margin of sealing. When doing stainless lines this is where they shine as you do not have to tweak the line wrench so hard to get a proper seal.

http://www.jefflilly.com/Fabrication/Fabrication-F/fuel-brake-lines/33.JPG

[Kendall Burleson]

keep us posted I want to see more build pics good job.:thumbsup:

[gearheads78]

Got a day off today and I am exteemly pissed right now. I never was happy with the factory exhaust manifolds. They looked OK from a distance but had some deep pits that bothered me. I pulled the trigger and bought a new set from Parts Place. These are sold as performance manifolds for duals made like the ones X/W for the factory big block. I know these are pretty new to the market but I must be the first person to ever get a set. There sure didn't spend much time R/D.

I put the LH one on first and it seems to fit fine. I then went to the RH side and it started snugging up and I was still seeing daylight under the gasket. At first I though it was warped but after getting under the car I saw the problem. The manifold was completely up against the top bolt of the oil filter adapter. I pulled it back off and removed the bolt to see how much clearance I needed. With the bolt removed it would seal up but the manifold was still touching the oil filter adapter.

At this point I should have just boxed them up and send them back but I really don't have time for delays right now so I decided to just make it work. I cut down the housing a little and used a counter sink bit and cut a recess in the housing and used a countersink bolt. I still had to grind on the manifold and good bit to gain some minimal clearance.

Here you can see no bolt installed and it still hits
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/7494/stuff082.jpg

A little bit of home brewed machine work on the adapter
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/7980/stuff084.jpg

Oh the fun of grinding on new parts
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/9480/stuff085.jpg

Now we have a little clearance. Not optimal but it will work.
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/8526/stuff086.jpg

I thought the problems were behind me getting the RH side ironed out but I was very wrong. Tonight I went to put the starter back on and only the inside bolt would go in. The starter still needs to rotate out and good bit to install the bolt. Well after looking up to see the problem I about went throug the roof. You guessed it. The LH side was crammed up agaist the starter. The is no amout of grinding or clearancing that will let it work with my original starter.

See how the starter still needs to rotate out at least another 1/4" or so.
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6233/stuff090.jpg

Not gonna happen with this exhaust in place.
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6550/stuff092.jpg

Don't get me wrong I don't mind making things work its all about building a hot rod but these are designed and casted completly wrong. When I saw the LH side I was about sick at my stomach and just had to come inside before I started throwing things.


Finshing up with a few pics of progress. Engine is about finished up the core support and new mid 80's Suburban radiator that drops right in to the original saddles with no modification at all.
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/5255/stuff088.jpg

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6433/stuff089g.jpg

[ProTouring442]

Sorry to hear about your problems with the manifolds. If it's any consolation, the car is looking great!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[thedude327]

Sorry to hear of your probs. with those manifolds. That sucks when you end up having to re-engineer something that should be a bolt-in. Are you going to end up using a newer style high-torque starter or could you machine up a manifold spacer to fit between the manifold and the head to give some more clearance? On another note, the car looks fantastic as it's coming together. With the trim and the rear bumper and lights installed, that is one sharp Oldsmo-touring ride............:thumbsup:

Paul

[gearheads78]

Sorry to hear of your probs. with those manifolds. That sucks when you end up having to re-engineer something that should be a bolt-in. Are you going to end up using a newer style high-torque starter or could you machine up a manifold spacer to fit between the manifold and the head to give some more clearance? On another note, the car looks fantastic as it's coming together. With the trim and the rear bumper and lights installed, that is one sharp Oldsmo-touring ride............:thumbsup:

Paul


Thanks Paul, I discovered today that I got big block malifolds even though my order confirmation and my packing slip show for small block. At this point I'm just going to put my originals back on and try to deal with Parts Place.

[gearheads78]

Forward progress today. Starting to look carish again.

Make sure to stand back 10 ft and you can admire my high dollar custom paint. ;)

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/7215/stuff104.jpg

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/9858/stuff105.jpg

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/5526/stuff108.jpg

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/3480/stuff106.jpg

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/1531/stuff107.jpg

[ProTouring442]

lookin' good! You'll be ready to drive up and help me on mine in no time!! :rofl:


Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[gearheads78]

lookin' good! You'll be ready to drive up and help me on mine in no time!! :rofl:


Shiny Side Up!
Bill

You care if I rest a week or so before I head up :lol:


Mothers day put a damper on things today but I did manage to get the hood sanded buffed and on the car. I knew it was bound to happen since the factory paint is so thin. I buffed the paint thin enough to see primer in a couple small spots.

[ProTouring442]

You care if I rest a week or so before I head up :lol:


Mothers day put a damper on things today but I did manage to get the hood sanded buffed and on the car. I knew it was bound to happen since the factory paint is so thin. I buffed the paint thin enough to see primer in a couple small spots.

If you can find someone who can mix acrylic lacquer, you can get them to match the hood and re-shoot it. Just scuff the hood down with 400 and shoot 3 or so coats on it, then sand and buff it again.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[gearheads78]

If you can find someone who can mix acrylic lacquer, you can get them to match the hood and re-shoot it. Just scuff the hood down with 400 and shoot 3 or so coats on it, then sand and buff it again.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill


No way I am opening that pandora's box. If I painted the hood I would have to fix the little bit of rust at the bottom of the fenders. If I painted the fenders I would have to fix the rock chips in the doors. If I painted the doors............. Well you know the rest:lol:

[gearheads78]

I little more assembly tonight. I got the grill on and noticed it had the same silver paint from the side mlds. I was faded and kinda nasty so I pulled it back off and spent a few hours painting it the dark gray I've been using.

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/8752/stuff109.jpg

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/3461/stuff110.jpg

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/4609/stuff111.jpg

[waynieZ]

Hey Its a car again! Looks good, You'll be enjoying it pretty soon.

[gearheads78]

Hey Its a car again! Looks good, You'll be enjoying it pretty soon.

Yea the parts shelf is almost empty again. :yes: I want to have it ready for a show Sunday but I don't think I am going to make it unless I (cough , cough) don't go to work Saturday. :D

[ScotI]

Yea the parts shelf is almost empty again. :yes: I want to have it ready for a show Sunday but I don't think I am going to make it unless I (cough , cough) don't go to work Saturday. :D
Statistics prove that 'anal-gloucoma' cases increase significanlty over the weekends..... especially during the spring/summer seasons. Just tell 'em that's what the dr. said it was :lol: .

[OLDFLM]

You're almost there my friend! Can't wait to see fully assembled pics!!! :thumbsup:

[gearheads78]

Statistics prove that 'anal-gloucoma' cases increase significanlty over the weekends..... especially during the spring/summer seasons. Just tell 'em that's what the dr. said it was :lol: .

Well I did make it to work but there a few parts under my desk to detail. Been getting a little done at a time this morning waiting on work to come to my desk.

Sorry boss....I have no idea there that masking tape and chrome polish came from.:D

[70rs]

I have been reading the whole thread over the past couple of days. Your car is looking great! I admire your ability to work through the "speedbumps" as they come up. I wish I had your patients. Thos exhaust manifolds would have ended up on my nieghbors roof! ;)
Keep it up, it's sooooo close to done! Nice work and sweet car.:thumbsup:

[gearheads78]

You're almost there my friend! Can't wait to see fully assembled pics!!! :thumbsup:

Thanks won't be near as nice as yours but it will be a decent ride for sure.

I have been reading the whole thread over the past couple of days. Your car is looking great! I admire your ability to work through the "speedbumps" as they come up. I wish I had your patients. Thos exhaust manifolds would have ended up on my nieghbors roof! ;)
Keep it up, it's sooooo close to done! Nice work and sweet car.:thumbsup:

I have a half acre so could not throw them that far. :lol:

Thanks for props. Its been a journey for sure but I taught myself a lot. I've owned lots of cars and worked on this or that on all of them but by far have never taken on anything like this. Some of the speed bumps sucked in the middle of the process but looking back they are just part of it. I just had to keep myself focused on what the end result would be and kept moving.

As I have mentioned before this was stage 1 of 3 steps. The motor is next and if still own it after I build my wifes 69 Firebird I will pull it apart again for body and paint.

[gearheads78]

Hey Its a car again! Looks good, You'll be enjoying it pretty soon.

I hope so...:)

Now I am just teasing myself. LOL Few small details and need to add an exhaust system. After 14 months I can drive it again. I got a universal 2.25" Abody system from Summit. I hope to be able to build it this weekend.

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/9242/stuff115.jpg

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/2539/stuff116.jpg

[gearheads78]

OK for you die hard olds guys you will enjoy this and get a good laugh. For you Chevy guys working on Oldsmobile this may save you from killing yourself. :eek:

Its been 14 months since I took my car apart. Well thurs night I planned on starting it so I could trailer it to work Friday for adjusting all the suspension before I can drive it. Starter was dead but I figured out it was a fuse issue with my neutral saftey system.

So Friday night with the starter working I try to prime the carb but all I cab get it to do it blubber. I add a little gas over and over till finally the pump is primed but it just won't start. I move the distributor back and forth a little at a time but it just won't fire. I run the battery down trying and put the charger on it. I try another 15 min and see a small fire reflection from the raw gas in the open exhaust manifold so I just call it a night.

So today I start about 1:00 and add a temporary exhaust a few feet behind the motor so I don't have any more potential fires. I check the timing I check for spark I check the compression incase some how sitting the rings stuck. I try a differnet coil and different distributor incase the Pertronix is bad or installed wrong. I literly try everything I can think of well into tonight. So I am putting the Pertronix distributor back in and I bump the starter and watch the rotor turn counter clockwise. I thing I am seeing things and the bump it again and watch it turn counter clockwise for sure. I literly screamed out loud. So I set the timing and correct the wires in the right order and it fires in less than 1/2 a revolution and sits there and purrs at idle. I can't believe how much of a headache its been for such a simple fix. :faint: :lol:

[mexMan]

just amazing, I've been following this build from a while ago, and I love it, you're almost finished there, great car, and you're foing an amazing job with it...

[gearheads78]

just amazing, I've been following this build from a while ago, and I love it, you're almost finished there, great car, and you're foing an amazing job with it...

Thanks its getting real close now.




Well I got it aligned this morning. It took a little while. I had never used and aligment machine and the tech helping me is used to Lexus vehicles not old hod rods with custom suspension. Once I figured out what made what change it went pretty smooth but it was a leaning curve for both of us.


I did find a small problem. I drove it next door to our body shop because several guys have been waiting to see it. Well sitting there only 15 minutes the LH front tire was almost flat. It turns out the valve stems hit the calipers up front and damaged one of them causing it to leak.

[ProTouring442]

I did find a small problem. I drove it next door to our body shop because several guys have been waiting to see it. Well sitting there only 15 minutes the LH front tire was almost flat. It turns out the valve stems hit the calipers up front and damaged one of them causing it to leak.

Best to have found it now rather than finding it at 70mph!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[syborg tt]

I did find a small problem. I drove it next door to our body shop because several guys have been waiting to see it. Well sitting there only 15 minutes the LH front tire was almost flat. It turns out the valve stems hit the calipers up front and damaged one of them causing it to leak.


yep - been there done that. Actually on a couple projects

Summit Racing sell to low profile stems

These are about 3/4" tall
Summit SUM-G1957 (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG1957&N=700+115&autoview=sku)

These are about as flush as you can get. I have them on my truck and I ordered a set for a Friends High End Nova. ( No leaks )

Summit SUM-G1958 (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG1958&N=700+115&autoview=sku)

ps - these are actually made by weld Racing

[70rs]

Congrats on getting the car up and running! It turned out really nice.
Glad you got the wiring on the starter turned around, that's kind of funny. But only because I have done the same thing.
So lets see a series of pics as a walk around of the car now that it's all done.:cheers:

[gearheads78]

Congrats on getting the car up and running! It turned out really nice.
Glad you got the wiring on the starter turned around, that's kind of funny. But only because I have done the same thing.
So lets see a series of pics as a walk around of the car now that it's all done.:cheers:

Not quite done yet. Still have to button up the interior and lots of cleaning and detail work to do. I will get some complete pics up soon.

[gearheads78]

The end is near.............

Well my punch out list is down to just a few items. I finally get to drive it in the next day or two. I have forced myself from starting to drive it because I would not want to go back and finish some details I have been working on. Finally time to reap some rewards of my labor and way too much $$ spent.

Here is the exhaust I had put on last week.

http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/6130/stuff120.jpg

http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/9550/stuff121.jpg

[Ummgawa]

Dude I have to tell you, I am so very impressed with your work ethic on this car. I have spent the last hour reading the progress up till now and I am so stoked for you. In the pasy three weeks, my three car buddies and I have gotten their rides that we have been working off and on for the past 3-6 years on the road. I am last with my 70 GTO. Ain't it amazing what I have read over the past hour has consumed your life for the past 1.5 years.

Now, we all need some outdoor stance pictures asap!!

You have really hit a homerun with this car. What a sweet ride.:hail:

[gearheads78]

Dude I have to tell you, I am so very impressed with your work ethic on this car. I have spent the last hour reading the progress up till now and I am so stoked for you. In the pasy three weeks, my three car buddies and I have gotten their rides that we have been working off and on for the past 3-6 years on the road. I am last with my 70 GTO. Ain't it amazing what I have read over the past hour has consumed your life for the past 1.5 years.

Now, we all need some outdoor stance pictures asap!!

You have really hit a homerun with this car. What a sweet ride.:hail:


Thanks a ton!! Got it's public debute tonight at a weekly show in shine. Lots of attention and positive comments. I'm stoked...

Ignoir the missing center cap and the rear stance. Those will be addressed soon. Here is the first daylight complete pics in 14 months. For grins I added one of the original pics from before I started.

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8898/img2950q.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/614/stuff124sm.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/6614/stuff125sm.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/9462/stuff126sm.jpg

[gearheads78]

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/655/stuff130sm.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/4540/stuff127sm.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/1040/stuff128sm.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/3200/stuff131sm.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/6240/stuff129sm.jpg

[WILWAXU]

Great looking car!

[tones2SS]

Very nice.
Looks clean.:thumbsup:

[thedude327]

Excellent job !!! It's a great feeling to get em' back on the road after a long teardown. Give yourself a big pat on the back and enjoy !!! All that's left looks like a small reupholstery job on the kid's car seat and your golden!! ;)

Paul
:thumbsup:

[gearheads78]

Excellent job !!! It's a great feeling to get em' back on the road after a long teardown. Give yourself a big pat on the back and enjoy !!! All that's left looks like a small reupholstery job on the kid's car seat and your golden!! ;)

Paul
:thumbsup:


And get her to give up her pink seat she picked out. I'd rather fight a polar bear in a pond full of alligators. :D

[ProTouring442]

NICE!!!!

Ok, you've had your fun, now get up here and help me finish mine! :D

Ok.... well..... I guess not, eh? Ah well, maybe next year when I live a bit closer in Tennessee.

Looks GREAT!!!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[thedude327]

And get her to give up her pink seat she picked out. I'd rather fight a polar bear in a pond full of alligators. :D


I completely understand !!! Seat's fine as it is!!! :thumbsup:

Paul

[gearheads78]

Some last minute clean up and assembly done. Here are some final pics from getting it out today.

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/131/stuff132sms.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/1746/stuff136sm.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/1830/stuff137sm.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/734/stuff134sm.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/3634/stuff139sm.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/5720/stuff143sm.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/2121/stuff145sm.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/9170/stuff146sm.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/3135/stuff147sm.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/5122/stuff148sm.jpg

[porkchop]

Sho-off Lol!

[89 RS]

Very nice man. :thumbsup: Cool transformation to what you have now.

[Viperlover]

Your car was in a thread over at LS2.com
http://bar-and-grill.com/showthread.php?s=&postid=11606443#post11606443
I saw it and thought to myself damn I've seen that somewhere...

[oldzzy]

car looks really good!

[gearheads78]

Sho-off Lol!

Maybe a little :D

Very nice man. :thumbsup: Cool transformation to what you have now.
Its been a fun trip. I've been so focused for so long now I feel adrift. There was nothing to do today except drive and that finda feels weird. :willy:

Your car was in a thread over at LS2.com
http://bar-and-grill.com/showthread.php?s=&postid=11606443#post11606443
I saw it and thought to myself damn I've seen that somewhere...

Yup thats where I was Saturday

car looks really good!

Thanks man...How is you Olds moving along?

[black2002ls]

I didn't even realize you were on this board! I put 2 and 2 together after commenting over on DFWStangs, and I saw this today. I've got so much more appreciation for the build after following this thread!

[gearheads78]

I didn't even realize you were on this board! I put 2 and 2 together after commenting over on DFWStangs, and I saw this today. I've got so much more appreciation for the build after following this thread!


The interweb makes it a small world doesn't it. I was out your direction last night driving some back roads.

[gearheads78]

Slight change ready for Goodguys this weekend. I think the red looks much better than the orange.

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/7960/july09forsalefs001.jpg

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/47/july09forsalefs002.jpg

[waynieZ]

Looking Good You do some nice neat work .

[tones2SS]

Very nice.:thumbsup:

[ScotI]

I waited while you were talking to the guys in the tech area of the autocross on Friday but I didn't see your car go around. Did I just miss it or??

[gearheads78]

I waited while you were talking to the guys in the tech area of the autocross on Friday but I didn't see your car go around. Did I just miss it or??
I went twice yesterday and once today in the rain. Each pass got better. That **** could get real addicting real quick. Now I wanna build a hard core carver :_paranoid :D

[gearheads78]

Just noticed I never posted the final pics of the car I took a couple years ago the week before it headed off to California to its new owner. Ive got a 69 Camaro now. It will be a while but it will be built in a similar type build.

http://i936.photobucket.com/albums/ad205/gearheads78/66%20for%20sale/final660041.jpg

http://i936.photobucket.com/albums/ad205/gearheads78/66%20for%20sale/final660091.jpg

http://i936.photobucket.com/albums/ad205/gearheads78/66%20for%20sale/final660141.jpg

http://i936.photobucket.com/albums/ad205/gearheads78/66%20for%20sale/final660171.jpg

[waynieZ]

It looks great, you did a nice job on it.

[gearheads78]

It looks great, you did a nice job on it.

Thanks Wayne. I sure miss it some days.