1/25th Camaro quickie and another of the GTO

[city_ofthe_south]

The Camaro really was just a quickie .... open window, storm, wind, model hits the floor - so i rebuilt it to test my painting skills. However, I've never much liked metallic paint on models because it's like the flakes aren't to scale ... ya know? well no more metallics for me most likely, even though it's a slick color. the wheels are the OOBs from the GTO ... they were too nice to waste but the tires look HUGE coming from a 1/24th going onto a 1/25th. In fact you can image that the front tires are hitting the top of the fenders. oh well, it still looks good. with all the material in the metallic paint i once again put it on too heavy and couldn't get all the orange peal out.

QUESTION to modelers: My Challenger is going to have a painted TA-like stripe. I'm Useing DupliColor touch up cans for my colors. How long would anyone reccomend waiting between the two colors? It will be black with a blue stripe ("Drive" TV show inspired but in a TA ... well because that's what is effin offered) ... so I lay down my black, don't want my tape to lift the paint but i can't think of any other concerns involved with laying down the blue... 24 hours? Just as a teaser my Challenger is also going to have Viper seats and brakes. yeah, i didn't think you'd care :) Thanks in advance, enjoy the pics.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t201/city_ofthe_south/camaromodel5.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t201/city_ofthe_south/camaromodel4.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t201/city_ofthe_south/camaromodel3.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t201/city_ofthe_south/camaromodel2.jpg

[city_ofthe_south]

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t201/city_ofthe_south/camaromodel1.jpg
and the GTO again.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t201/city_ofthe_south/gto_model1.jpg

[black2002ls]

You do a great job with the paint on these, it seems soooo smooth! Thats one of the hardest things to master.

That GTO looks KILLER!

[ProTouring442]

Wow, they look cool!

What are you using for primer?

Shiny SIde Up!
Bill

[drphibes]

Those look awesome. :thumbsup: I haven't built models since I was a kid, but this looks like fun. Who makes those kits.

Robert

[black2002ls]

Wow, they look cool!

What are you using for primer?

Shiny SIde Up!
Bill

I typically use duplicolor primer. Its in a spray can and the duplicolor spray nozzles are awesome. The newer revell stuff is kinda tricky because of the new plastic they are using. I was using moon mud on the new plastic, but the company that makes it has closed its doors.....hope that helps.

[black2002ls]

Those look awesome. :thumbsup: I haven't built models since I was a kid, but this looks like fun. Who makes those kits.

Robert


I think the GTO kit is from Revell and since The Camaro is 1:25 I'm gonna guess its an AMT kit

[city_ofthe_south]

yup black covered it all correctly. the Camaro is AMT and the goat is Revell. For these two i used just Dupli Color sealer - 3 coats, sometimes 4 if i did a lot of body work after the first coat. I think this is common but, i try to do all the body work then prime but you miss things that you find after the first coat and it really helps to find little mistakes WITH a coat of primer/sealer, whatever. 3 coats of dupli color touch up can auto parts store special :) and 4 coats of dupli color clear. then 2000 grit sand paper until i don't see any shiny spots (yeah RIGHT!) and then break my arm polishing with scratch X and wax after that.

hey black, any thoughts on doing two colors?

[black2002ls]

If you are doing a two tone. Maybe something like this...

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/black2002ls/chevelledone9.jpg

Spray the silver, then mask the line for the blue, before you spray the blue hit it with silver again. What this does is seal the tape line so the blue doesn't bleed, you could also use clear for this. A large portion of the time you end up with a ridge. I lightly sand that area with some 2000 before clear, and then pile on the clear after that to try and make the line disappear. That is one reason I like using 2 part automotive urethane, it is hard and sprays thicker than the duplicolor, so it hides those things a little better. That chevelle was done with all duplicolor paint, minus the purple pin stripe.

[city_ofthe_south]

If you are doing a two tone. Maybe something like this...


Spray the silver, then mask the line for the blue, before you spray the blue hit it with silver again. What this does is seal the tape line so the blue doesn't bleed, you could also use clear for this. A large portion of the time you end up with a ridge. I lightly sand that area with some 2000 before clear, and then pile on the clear after that to try and make the line disappear. That is one reason I like using 2 part automotive urethane, it is hard and sprays thicker than the duplicolor, so it hides those things a little better. That chevelle was done with all duplicolor paint, minus the purple pin stripe.

i'm mainly interested in dry time between colors. i don't really see on the color cans where it says about dry time. i was just goin to let the black dry 24 hours then tape off and shoot blue. do you allow less time than this for your first color to dry?

[mlomaka]

You can try 24 hours, but a lot depends on what you are going to mask it with. The stickier whatever it is you use, the longer I would wait. Personally, I would give it a couple of days. I have also found that the thinner the masking, the smaller the ridge. I have some of that bad "super bright" Bare Metal that doesn't really stick well enough to use for detailing, but works great for two tones. It leaves a very little ridge. Take your time, you don't want to mess up what you have already done.
Here are a couple I did using BM.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/mlomaka/38e120b2.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/mlomaka/100_1014.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/mlomaka/album%20II/100_1226.jpg
Be sure to show us pics after you do it.

[black2002ls]

A day should be sufficient. I've had issues with paint pulling up no matter how long I waited, I'm pretty sure it was bad prep on my part. I try to use 3m fine line tape

[city_ofthe_south]

ok, thanks guys. I'm gonna try pretty hard on this model to step up from the GTO as far as over all finish so don't fear, there will be many pics. I got those 23Ts from pegasus and one of them is really poorly chromed which aggravates the crap out of me when they're frickin 8 bucks for 4 tiny pieces of plastic and some rubber ... but aaaaaaaanyway. Compared to the cost of a model does anyone else think we should be getting a whole box full of wheels and tires for that kind of money? ok seriously ... i'm done. thanks again for the help.

[black2002ls]

Pegasus is a rather small operation as far as car modeling is concerned. Its not cheap to have things chromed. Who did you order them from? Most online hobby shops and distributors are pretty good about customer service. I've yet to have any issues with pegasus wheels. Try going through customer service and see if you can get a replacement set.

[city_ofthe_south]

Pegasus is a rather small operation as far as car modeling is concerned. Its not cheap to have things chromed. Who did you order them from? Most online hobby shops and distributors are pretty good about customer service. I've yet to have any issues with pegasus wheels. Try going through customer service and see if you can get a replacement set.

well i'm sure I've tossed the information and i've had them for quite awhile ... a month prolly. I got them from Hobby Linc ... just found the email. On one of the wheels you can still see the plastic color on the sides of the spokes like the chrome fades to clear around the edges. This whole thing with the Challenger has been very ... challenging, because my glass is effed up, I can't get BMF here in town and I already stripped the bumpers, the humidity made my paint crinkle a little last night so I'll have to work on that. this is a rebuild and i can't get two of the head lights out. i guess i glued them in REAL good. i've masked them off which i know isn't working very well. couldn't get the hood pins sanded off very well without hitting other parts of the hood with the sand paper that i didn't want to sand on anymore. gggrrrr.

[black2002ls]

We all run into these little issues on our builds from time to time. Hobby Linc, I think I've ordered from them, they are on the east coast right? Georgia or alabama or somewhere round there, Shoot them an e-mail most places are more than happy to work with you. I ordered some pegasus resin disc brakes once and only received part of the order, they sent me a handful and I had them within a week. Never know if you don't try

As for the headlights, next time try sticking it in the freezer I've heard that helps to separate the parts. I hear ya on the BMF bit, I wish I could get it local. It sucks having to have a sheet shipped to you by itself, by the time the shipping is paid for you could have bought 2 sheets, or a set of wheels or other goodies. On the hood pins. Next time you are in wal mart go to the health and beauty supplies and pick up some of the bulk pack cheap nail files. THey are great for removing detail. They work rather quickly because of the grit, but once followed with some 800 grit to clean up, your golden. Sometimes it takes 800, primer and again with the 800 a time or two. Just keep an eye out when you sand off details, mold lines, badges, etc. A lot of times you get ghosting. I had a can of white plastic primer from duplicolor, but I cannot find it. I was going to give that a go and see if it prevented the ghosting. One way to get around that is to go to Home Depot and pick up a spray can of Zinser BIN. Prime, once your happy with the body work, spray with the BIN and it will seal everything off and all of the ghosting from the primer will not show through on the finished paint.

[city_ofthe_south]

We all run into these little issues on our builds from time to time. Hobby Linc, I think I've ordered from them, they are on the east coast right? Georgia or alabama or somewhere round there, Shoot them an e-mail most places are more than happy to work with you. I ordered some pegasus resin disc brakes once and only received part of the order, they sent me a handful and I had them within a week. Never know if you don't try

As for the headlights, next time try sticking it in the freezer I've heard that helps to separate the parts. I hear ya on the BMF bit, I wish I could get it local. It sucks having to have a sheet shipped to you by itself, by the time the shipping is paid for you could have bought 2 sheets, or a set of wheels or other goodies. On the hood pins. Next time you are in wal mart go to the health and beauty supplies and pick up some of the bulk pack cheap nail files. THey are great for removing detail. They work rather quickly because of the grit, but once followed with some 800 grit to clean up, your golden. Sometimes it takes 800, primer and again with the 800 a time or two. Just keep an eye out when you sand off details, mold lines, badges, etc. A lot of times you get ghosting. I had a can of white plastic primer from duplicolor, but I cannot find it. I was going to give that a go and see if it prevented the ghosting. One way to get around that is to go to Home Depot and pick up a spray can of Zinser BIN. Prime, once your happy with the body work, spray with the BIN and it will seal everything off and all of the ghosting from the primer will not show through on the finished paint.

I just called them a minute ago and they were real cool except I had to do it online. So I sent in my request (i'm actually over the 30 day period but they don't see to mind) and I'm supposed to get an email back in a couple days to let me know if they are going to let me send them back. I think Georgia is right. I don't have the box they came in either .... :_paranoid
I've been using the cheap nail files and they are great ... i like being able to cut them down and get into tight spaces. Even so, the hood pins on the Challenger are right next to that spiffy little shape ... how do I describe it ... even if you had a flat hood there is a shape molded in that follows onto the tops of the fenders. Does that make sense? I had a hell of a time getting ANYTHING into that aread without rounding off those body lines.

Another thing is that my glass is messed up so I'm working on getting Revell to send me a new one without a receipt or UPC or instruction sheet or anything else cause I don't have any of it.

[mlomaka]

All those things can be very agrevating. I have used layers of masking tape to save surounding details and body lines. What I have done with things like hood pins (and even name plates & door handles) is trim it as far down with an exacto knife, sand, and then a little trick to prevent ghosting, bush a thin coat of testors or MM liquid cement over it and wait for it to dry. It will "relax" the plastic so it doesn't reappear. And I just sand it back down again when it is dry. Just a thought, I dont know how factory correct you are trying to make this, but I know 71 Challengers had a rubber (or what ever it is called) bumper option. So you could get away with painting them with the rest of the car. I am doing that on my 71.

[black2002ls]

All those things can be very agrevating. I have used layers of masking tape to save surounding details and body lines. What I have done with things like hood pins (and even name plates & door handles) is trim it as far down with an exacto knife, sand, and then a little trick to prevent ghosting, bush a thin coat of testors or MM liquid cement over it and wait for it to dry. It will "relax" the plastic so it doesn't reappear. And I just sand it back down again when it is dry. Just a thought, I dont know how factory correct you are trying to make this, but I know 71 Challengers had a rubber (or what ever it is called) bumper option. So you could get away with painting them with the rest of the car. I am doing that on my 71.


I'm definitely going to have to remember that liquid cement tip

[city_ofthe_south]

All those things can be very agrevating. I have used layers of masking tape to save surounding details and body lines. What I have done with things like hood pins (and even name plates & door handles) is trim it as far down with an exacto knife, sand, and then a little trick to prevent ghosting, bush a thin coat of testors or MM liquid cement over it and wait for it to dry. It will "relax" the plastic so it doesn't reappear. And I just sand it back down again when it is dry. Just a thought, I dont know how factory correct you are trying to make this, but I know 71 Challengers had a rubber (or what ever it is called) bumper option. So you could get away with painting them with the rest of the car. I am doing that on my 71.

ha, there is going to be nothing correct about any of my cars. I'm all about modified and since they're models i'm just doing whatever i think is cool. Since my paint crinkled slightly i took out the 600 grit and knocked it down then gave it another coat ... that ALLLLL most got rid of all ghosting so i'm pretty happy with my progress at this point. i'll be remembering that tip with the cement though ... it's funny that you say that because just last night i was looking at yet another hood hole i filled on an AMT Challenger and noticed that the very thinnest styrene i used on the under side of the hood actually molded itself into the contours of the underside of the hood where it wasn't exactly flat .... like it had melted from the cement.
i thought about painting the bumpers but i just don wanna! it's gonna be a black car and it would look so killer with chrome bumpers, my big chrome wheels.... oh yeah. I need to order a few things, including more wheels so i'll get some various items all at once .... there is a hobby lobby near by (kinda) that i'm go see if they have any of this fun stuff - BMF, wheels, more models, you know.

[city_ofthe_south]

alright i put on the clear, things are going well enough BUT i got some ultra thin krome foil .... yeah i'm getting the impression that this crap is useless huh? It's certainly NOT chrome ... "aluminum" maybe if that was the look you're going for. Unless there is something i'm not doing *shrug* .... at any rate are there certain brands or something of BMF that are better than the next? I haven't used it before.

[black2002ls]

BMF is Bare Metal Foil. thats the product name. Maybe the brand name too. Its First class where as the rest are second rate. I've not used any foil to date.

[city_ofthe_south]

BMF is Bare Metal Foil. thats the product name. Maybe the brand name too. Its First class where as the rest are second rate. I've not used any foil to date.

yeah after i posted that i went digging around some more and i think you're right about it being the brand and everything ... at any rate, i went to their website and that is it was it's called. they describe it exactly like what i purchased though but this was made by model master. it sucks. It looks to me like the parts you get with a model kit or even something like pegasus wheels are chromed differently than just using some sort of stick on foil ... i want to know how they do that. then i would really be kickin ass. i guess i'll order actual BMF and see how it works but it better be mirror finish. they also have black chrome which i think might be pretty cool to get. is there a reason you don't use foil? do you know some dirty secret that i need to know? the mold lines on the bumpers really bug me when i spent so much time getting the rest of the car so nice.

[mlomaka]

Yea, Bare Metal is better than Mpdel Master stuff. Even that will only look so good. The chrome in kits and on Pegasus wheels is an actual plating. You can send stuff out attached to a "tree" to some place like ChromeTech. Prep work is very important. You can have no scratches or they will show up. There is a newer paint system, I forget the name right now (Alclad?). I have seen some good results in photos, just not in person.

[70OldsSportsCoupe]

Yea, Bare Metal is better than Mpdel Master stuff. Even that will only look so good. The chrome in kits and on Pegasus wheels is an actual plating. You can send stuff out attached to a "tree" to some place like ChromeTech. Prep work is very important. You can have no scratches or they will show up. There is a newer paint system, I forget the name right now (Alclad?). I have seen some good results in photos, just not in person.

Alsa Mirrachrome is one, but it's for larger stuff.
http://alsacorp.com/products/mirrachrome/mirrachrome.htm

There is a chrome paint intended for models, it's used over gloss black for a true chrome appearance.

There's this, but it says it requires special equipment:
http://www.newfantachrome.com/goin/prodotti_eng/newfantachrome.htm#

These guys can apparently chrome (silve, actually) anything:
http://www.coatofchrome.com/default.php

AHA! Here's the model paint I was looking for (mlomaka had it right):
http://www.alclad2.com/
Not just chrome, but a whole mess of natural metal finishes, like dark aluminum, burnt metal, and magnesium. Could have all sorts of uses in race or serious street car models.

Edited to acknowledge mlomaka's accuracy of memory :)

[black2002ls]

Alclad is good stuff. I've never used it but I've seen the results. I was in the paint store (english color) and the guy mentioned one of their employees airbrushed, and found a paint that they sold that, when airbrushed, looked just like chrome, I can't remember the name of it though. If you are looking into real metal finishes, they all need to be airbrushed. I've had success with model masters line of metalizers, much more cost effective than alcald

[city_ofthe_south]

that all sounds just slightly disheartening i guess. i followed the links and i'm gonna say it looks like i might be SOL. still, the bumpers weren't good enough so i gotta figure something out cause they are already stripped. BTW, oven cleaner takes chrome off almost instantly .... not so great on removing the old paint but it does work eventually. i did a search for re-chroming model parts but came up pretty empty except one link to images of a car that said its bumpers had been re-chromed (not HOW)... they looked good in the pic but without getting up close and personal i can't really tell. the BMF website has that tutorial slide show but the images are small ... even though the car does look nicely done. but if they are only going to turn out 85% as nice as the chrome that came on them, it seems like a waste and i might as well paint them the body color. i know that will at least turn out nice.

[mlomaka]

Try here.

www.chrometechusa.com

[city_ofthe_south]

Try here.

www.chrometechusa.com

my frustration level is making me stubborn i think but this model is already costing too much and causing too much frustration. i just ordered the spare parts from Revell which is another 4 bucks (and time). i used the box my wheels came in to return them which was express or something so there is another 5 bucks for shipping into my wheels (which i shouldn't have to pay). i went out of town to find foil, got crap, got over charged for other items i bought at hobby lobby, waited in line for frickin ever so that is a huge expense in my book - both time and money. add all that up plus the other things like i could only find a giant can of the blue color i liked for the stripes and i'm at almost max aggravation. so the bumpers are likely to end up black. that chrome service isn't over priced or anything, but they have a 10$ min which means if i wanted to make it worth my time i would go strip a bunch of other bumpers and shiny bits from other models and send it all at once ... however, i need to get some drawings done more than i need to get models built. ggrrrr is all i have to say. what's worse is that i bought a viper kit to steal the seats and brakes from and now i'm thinking of putting the rest of the Viper into a Cuda. uh ohhh. but then i thought, why do everything viper but not have the seats? the brakes i can build ..... but if this then that, if that then what? you know what i'm saying? i need to take a break i think.