...

Go Back   Lateral-g Forums > Technical Discussions > Brakes
User Name
Password



Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 09-04-2016, 01:15 PM
vstol vstol is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 524
Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 10 Posts
Default

interesting where did you purchase the phoenix unit
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 09-04-2016, 08:58 PM
dhutton dhutton is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Mountain Springs, Texas
Posts: 1,857
Thanks: 985
Thanked 448 Times in 247 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vstol View Post
interesting where did you purchase the phoenix unit
eBay. I think this is the one I have:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Phoenix-Syst...3D162056873876

Don
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 09-05-2016, 06:23 AM
vstol vstol is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 524
Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 10 Posts
Default

thanks
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 09-05-2016, 08:37 PM
JUSTANOVA JUSTANOVA is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lu Verne, Ia
Posts: 195
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
You would be surprise how much fluid it takes to fill new, dry brake lines...I would just crack all the bleeders and let gravity do the work while keeping an eye on the fluid level in the MC...

Andrew
I do this method especially when dealing with all new components, crack all bleeders, and keep the master topped off, wait for fluid to come out of all the bleeders (sometimes this takes a while, I have had it take a half hour plus) then close all the bleeders and do the normal brake bleed procedure to be sure.
__________________
Project EARTHQUAKE:

72 Nova SS, Plans have changed a little:artmorrison front subframe, and rear 3 link, pretty much stock ls1 and six speed with a single turbo for around 550hp. with a few other things mixed in.


current cruiser: "The green machine"

'70 Impala 4drht, 26K original miles, 2" drop springs and large swaybars, drives pretty good for a land yahct

and why do we modify everything...."BECAUSE STOCK SUCKS"
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 09-06-2016, 06:24 AM
vstol vstol is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 524
Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 10 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JUSTANOVA View Post
I do this method especially when dealing with all new components, crack all bleeders, and keep the master topped off, wait for fluid to come out of all the bleeders (sometimes this takes a while, I have had it take a half hour plus) then close all the bleeders and do the normal brake bleed procedure to be sure.
thanks
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 03-19-2017, 05:40 PM
vstol vstol is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 524
Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 10 Posts
Default

Well finally back up with the car after building an addition to my home. Went back again to bleed my brakes and nothing in the rear. The Wilwood master brake cylinder was bench bleed and also bleed while on the vehicle. It is not pushing the fluid so I am thinking I need to back out the threads in order for it to completely clear the rear return/orifice in order to get the fluid to the rear. I am getting fluid to the fronts. I plan on calling wildwood tomorrow but keep you ideas coming. Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 04-20-2017, 05:00 AM
vstol vstol is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 524
Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 10 Posts
Default

Problem solved and not sure why, thanks
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:02 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net