Track Day 'Cuda - Page 8 - Lateral-g Forums

SBDave · #71 10-20-2016, 03:09 PM

This thing is just awesome! I get scared at 145, 270 is nuts. Oh and I just got a Sparco fixed back mounted in my Cuda, wooo what a difference!!

CJD Automotive · #72 10-20-2016, 05:19 PM

Thanks guys!

Few more with tires. Amazed at the turning radius and 335's.

Not 100% on the curved tie rod, looks a little sketchy. Going to see if a straight one will work, but if I need it to keep the turning radius, I'll run a small gusset at the bend.

NOT A TA · #73 10-20-2016, 06:42 PM

Painting that cage was not fun I'm sure!

The front clip with those massive tires looks....... really really intimidating.

Centerforce · #74 10-20-2016, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CJD Automotive

Thanks. Ron will say it is overbuilt, i.e. adding excessive weight. I'll do mile runs with the car and the flats, so car can run upwards of 270 mph...wanted a little extra cage!

I'm going to say it takes 3 to 4 times as long to TIG it than MIG it. Still wondering why I'm doing it that way...

Well at speeds like that, we'd definitely take an extra 10 pounds for the added safety.

Also, it may be because it's off the car. but that front tire setup has to be the beefiest we've ever seen!!

CJD Automotive · #75 10-21-2016, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NOT A TA

Painting that cage was not fun I'm sure!

The front clip with those massive tires looks....... really really intimidating.

Yes, sucked ass and that's just epoxy. Still have to scuff and paint when all done. Next time, going to switch to a pressure pot so I can eliminate the cup not fitting in a spot or bumping everything!

CJD Automotive · #76 10-21-2016, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Centerforce

Well at speeds like that, we'd definitely take an extra 10 pounds for the added safety.

Also, it may be because it's off the car. but that front tire setup has to be the beefiest we've ever seen!!

It's sitting in the shop and when people come in they immediately walk to it! It's crazy with that size tire.
Going to break it down this weekend and epoxy the bare metal...then on to fitting!

CJD Automotive · #77 10-21-2016, 11:39 AM

Posted up the seat mount question in Ron's Safety Thread. I'm curious too as to what is the best/safest mount style.

carbuff · #78 10-21-2016, 01:55 PM

I'm curious which 'level' of Ron's front clip is this? I don't recall them all, but something like the TA, TA2, GT, etc.

CJD Automotive · #79 10-21-2016, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carbuff

I'm curious which 'level' of Ron's front clip is this? I don't recall them all, but something like the TA, TA2, GT, etc.

TA front and GT rear.

Ron Sutton · #80 10-21-2016, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carbuff

I'm curious which 'level' of Ron's front clip is this? I don't recall them all, but something like the TA, TA2, GT, etc.

Hey Bryan,

My highest level front suspensions are called "Track-Star GT" & require the engine to be moved back substantially, so the pulleys are behind the front axle centerline.

Craig's front suspension is my "Track-Star TA" front suspension. It is the meanest front suspension I know how to build ... without moving the engine back behind the front axle centerline. The LCAs are a special Laser cut design I did. The UCAs are on roller bearings. The shocks adjusters allow the ride height to change up to 2" without affecting the shaft gap showing on the shocks. It utilizes a special bump stop system for easy landings & consistent corner entry grip & braking.

The spindles are my GT "Zero Scrub" with my GT narrow XHD hubs. Bearings have twice the rating of street car stuff. The steering arms are slugged, so Craig can make them anywhere from 4-1/4" long to 5-1/4" long. Excellent for switching from autocross to road courses, like a lot of my Optima clients do.

Of course it has crazy high end hardware, Tubular Chromoly bolts with AN washers & Nylock half nuts on all the double shear mounts. 170,000 PSI 12-Point bolts & full height Nylocks for all the single shear mounts. Howe zero stiction XHD ball joints (not the standard versions). All chromoly rod ends, curved tie rods to allow the spindle to go deep into the wheels, which are 18x13 w/10" BS.

Craig's TA package has all of the possible upgrades over the "standard TA package. His came with a full range (70+) of suspension slugs, Caster Slugs & Camber Shims so the geometry can be changed or optimized for any set-up or any ride height he dreams up down the road. Plus Craig's has the triple adj JRI shocks with my special Race-Star valving & the Draco 9000 Series springs. Ridetech Triples with Track-Star valving & Draco springs are standard with the TA. Front Brakes will be my new StopTech ST60 Trophy system with lightweight (16.2#) 14" x 1.25" rotors.

The "Track-Star TA2" front frame & suspension is a lower cost version of the TA. It has the same frame, geometry & control arms, but uses lower cost shocks (Ridetech SA w/Track-Star Valving), Hypercoil 4000 Series springs, no C/O adjusters, TA2 Spindles & hubs with a 5/8" more scrub. It only comes with one set of slugs & Shims to optimize the suspension for the target ride height & setup. Everything else is the same.

The "Track-Star TT" (TT = Track Toy) is the lowest cost version. It uses the same frame clip design as the TA & TA2. But it uses off the shelf stock car control arms (non bearing), GN spindles, GN hubs, non-slugged steering arm, etc. It uses plain ol' grade 8 hardware. But it still uses the bad ass Sweet dual power rack & Ridetech SA shocks w/Track-Star Valving. It is designed for a guy that whats to have a durable, fun, safe, good handling track car (or street & track car) but isn't trying to set lap records. The geometry is "good." It is as good as I can achieve with all the shelf LCAs & GN Spindles. So it will be very good, but not in the same league as the TA & GT stuff.

Craig is pairing this with my "Track-Star GT" rear suspension which will make for one mean MoFo.