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View Poll Results: 68 Camaro rear suspension choice
Offset shackles and leafs 7 10.94%
Chassisworks G-link 13 20.31%
DSE quadralink 44 68.75%
Voters: 64. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 03-12-2012, 01:08 AM
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Default 68 Camaro rear suspension advice/guidance

I have a 68 Camaro that I mini tubbed and I need to make a decision on rear suspension. It has an LS motor and 6 speed. The front suspension is stock front sub with a few mods. The car will be 95% street driven. I have the offset shackles and leafs but the leafs are very close to the inside of the tires. The car is being built now so there are no issues with cutting, grinding and welding. I was going to go with the G-link, nice set up and they are local, until I saw a few photos of some frame rails. But DSE will be at Pleasanton on the 24th and 25th so I can pick it up there.

I would like input on 3 rear suspensions choices.
1. Offset shackles and leafs.
2. Alston G-link
3. DSE Quadralink

Concerns are:
1. Is it worth the approximately $ 2,800.00 to get rid of the leafs. Do 4 link cars really ride that much better?
2. Exhaust clearance issues with the upper links or panhard bar
3. BIGGEST concern is that I have seen the frame pics of Todd's "Payback" and Ironworks Camaros. I understand both cars don't have the G-link but both have the cradle. I have not seen any issues with the Quadralink.

Any comments/advise would be appreciated
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68 Camaro, LS1 T56, DSE Speed Kit 2, DSE Quadralink, DSE Mini Tub, Forgelines, Vintage Air, Dakota Digital, GM Tilt Column, Corbeau Seats
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Last edited by DEIGuy38; 03-12-2012 at 01:16 AM.
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Old 03-12-2012, 01:15 AM
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Hey Guy, Actually mine has the old G Bar and Rodger's car has the G Link. I'm not sold on the design of the G link as it's missing the front cradle cross bar that the old style used for bracing. So you go from loading both frame rails to one. Mine was some small cracks that were easily repair, Rodger had to do some real frame repair. Peronsally, I'd reinforce either set up just to be safe.

With all that being said, I'd opt for a Quadralink or Speedtech set up. I know guys with leaf springs and they are perfectly happy with the ride and performance.
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vegas69 View Post
Hey Guy, Actually mine has the old G Bar and Rodger's car has the G Link. I'm not sold on the design of the G link as it's missing the front cradle cross bar that the old style used for bracing. So you go from loading both frame rails to one. Mine was some small cracks that were easily repair, Rodger had to do some real frame repair. Peronsally, I'd reinforce either set up just to be safe.
For the price, I love the adjustability of of the G-Link, I personally wouldn't want to drop that much cash and have adjustment limited to just ride height, if that. That's what allowed me to justify the extra couple hundred of the G-link over the G-bar. I particularly liked the lack of cutting and minimal welding needed for the G-Link (if it were to be unmodified). The only downside as Todd mentioned was the lack of front cradle/crossbar for the UCA's, so I did this...



That being said, I haven't driven it yet (hoping within a couple weeks) but I have a feeling it'll be a drastic improvement over the stiff drop leafs that were previously in it. Oh and adjustable links (either upper, lower, or both) make it so nice for adjusting pinion angle exactly.
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frojoe View Post
...The only downside as Todd mentioned was the lack of front cradle/crossbar for the UCA's, so I did this...
After seeing those same frame rail pics I also got a little concerned about the thin frame rails and lack of a connecting brace for those front upper links. To make matters worse I read something lately that claimed the Nova's have thinner rails than first gen F-bodies. I find that a little hard to believe though but it has me curious.

I think realistically the G-link and Quadra Link are probably more similar in this area of concern. I'd like to see some hard data though. The intended usage of either is probably not the drag strip with sticky tires. Yes, the frame rails have been an issue with G-link as we've seen. Very limited that I'm aware of though. The Quadra-Link welds to the floor pan area. How can that not be just as weak? There's more weld area so maybe that is it? Or is it that those builds just aren't as likely to hit the drag strip with sticky tires?

Having spent quality time underneath mine this weekend installing the gear case, I was eying the possibility of a similar setup as what you've done. You just helped prove it could be done . My setup is already welded in the car though so it might prove a bit of a challenge. I was thinking about coming up with something that would tie into the area where the OE snubber bolted in. I was having trouble visualizing how I might attach a bar to that area where the links bolt to though. Do you have any other pictures of that area and how you accomplished that without interfering with travel of the links?

Thanks!
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBC71Nova View Post
After seeing those same frame rail pics I also got a little concerned about the thin frame rails and lack of a connecting brace for those front upper links. To make matters worse I read something lately that claimed the Nova's have thinner rails than first gen F-bodies. I find that a little hard to believe though but it has me curious.

I think realistically the G-link and Quadra Link are probably more similar in this area of concern. I'd like to see some hard data though. The intended usage of either is probably not the drag strip with sticky tires. Yes, the frame rails have been an issue with G-link as we've seen. Very limited that I'm aware of though. The Quadra-Link welds to the floor pan area. How can that not be just as weak? There's more weld area so maybe that is it? Or is it that those builds just aren't as likely to hit the drag strip with sticky tires?

Having spent quality time underneath mine this weekend installing the gear case, I was eying the possibility of a similar setup as what you've done. You just helped prove it could be done . My setup is already welded in the car though so it might prove a bit of a challenge. I was thinking about coming up with something that would tie into the area where the OE snubber bolted in. I was having trouble visualizing how I might attach a bar to that area where the links bolt to though. Do you have any other pictures of that area and how you accomplished that without interfering with travel of the links?

Thanks!
I'll dig up some more pics and send to you when I get home tonight. Should I email? If so, PM the details.

Cheers,
joe
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Old 03-12-2012, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEIGuy38 View Post
1. Is it worth the approximately $ 2,800.00 to get rid of the leafs. Do 4 link cars really ride that much better?
My previous 68 had the Air Bar 4 link and my current 68 has the drop leafs and offset shackles.

Yes, the ride quality is much better on the street with the 4 link. If you value the softer ride on the street highly, maybe the $2800 is worth it to you.

If you value the performance aspect highly and the soft ride is a nice bonus, then maybe you're better off with the leafs and spending the dough elsewhere. Leafs can get it done on the track. Mary Pozzi proved that for years with her leaf rear.

I would consider a torque arm as well as they are an easier install as well than the Q-Link.
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Old 03-12-2012, 01:08 PM
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At RTTC this weekend I was lucky enough to ride in just about every setup. Great way to see what's what. All the cars performed great and I have to say it's hard to pick one that's "better" than the rest. Having said that, I think that Speedtech has a great setup and it's user friendly. To top it off they are great people to do business with or to just hang out with.

As always it comes down to what you feel is best for you.
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:23 PM
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Looks perfect Joe.
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:45 PM
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Or go with the AME rear clip and increase the body's stiffness above any other option...
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Old 03-12-2012, 10:12 PM
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The ridetech bolt in 4 link has the crossmember that you are looking for. http://www.ridetech.com/store/1967-1...rd-airbar.html

Also has heim joint option and offset lower bats to clear a 335 tire. Completely compatible with mini tubs, DSE or otherwise.
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