...

Go Back   Lateral-g Forums > Technical Discussions > Wheels and Tires
User Name
Password



Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #21  
Old 10-29-2009, 11:05 AM
GregWeld's Avatar
GregWeld GregWeld is offline
Lateral-g Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Scottsdale, AriDzona
Posts: 20,642
Thanks: 504
Thanked 1,076 Times in 384 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69MyWay View Post
Here is a hijack while we have some great brake experts to share their .02

I'm setting up my car (by default) at this time using manual 4 wheel disc brakes. This car is a factory manual brake car - so the pedal, small m/c bore...and all are intact. It is a 69 Vette - and will be my first manual brake car in...forever!

I was bleeding the brakes after bench bleeding the m/c the other day. I was letting them gravity bleed while doing other things. The fronts came on-line after a bit and I was able to get pressure in them.

The rear after over an hour of being open didn't bleed. Tried to pump them...with no result.

So....what is the trick to get those rear babies to come on-line?

And...I am glad to see so much positive response on this thread about running manual brakes. I'd like to upgrade the m/c later due to the poor visual of the heavy cast - soon to rust - stock m/c.

You might need to apply some VACUUM to get them to bleed - sometimes I tap the caliper with a small dead blow hammer to "shake" the air bubbles. BUT I have a handy dandy air driven vacuum bleeder so it's easy on my end and a one man job -- ALSO make sure you have fluid in the MC --- keep it topped off... When bleeding brakes - you ALWAYS start with the furthest away - meaning you should have gotten all the air out of the passenger Rear FIRST... then the driver rear - then the passenger front... then do it all over again.

Stop the rusting master cylinder with some "cast blast" rattle can paint from Eastwoods or similar - it makes it look like brand new cast iron. Just don't spill brake fluid on that paint! So when you're done - make sure you clean everything with some mineral spirits or similar.
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 10-29-2009, 11:34 AM
69MyWay's Avatar
69MyWay 69MyWay is offline
Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Clinton, IL
Posts: 1,256
Thanks: 8
Thanked 13 Times in 6 Posts
Default

Awesome! Thanks

Yep..I got in a hurry to get some brake action so I could move the car under its own power for the first time before the sun went down last weekend.

Had just enough (manual shift car) to get it to move in the driveway and call it a success.

I'll check out that paint - but it seems hard as you try, a little fluid trickles down and eats the paint off - leaving a rust trail soon behind.

By the way - if I use a siphon air gun and hook the siphon hose to the brake bleeder - then deposit the air out tip in a bucket...will that work to pull a vacuum? (poor man's tool).
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 10-29-2009, 11:43 AM
GregWeld's Avatar
GregWeld GregWeld is offline
Lateral-g Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Scottsdale, AriDzona
Posts: 20,642
Thanks: 504
Thanked 1,076 Times in 384 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69MyWay View Post
Awesome! Thanks

Yep..I got in a hurry to get some brake action so I could move the car under its own power for the first time before the sun went down last weekend.

Had just enough (manual shift car) to get it to move in the driveway and call it a success.

I'll check out that paint - but it seems hard as you try, a little fluid trickles down and eats the paint off - leaving a rust trail soon behind.

By the way - if I use a siphon air gun and hook the siphon hose to the brake bleeder - then deposit the air out tip in a bucket...will that work to pull a vacuum? (poor man's tool).

Yes -- that should work - just remembering that the brake fluid WILL FIND IT'S WAY TO THE PRETTIEST PAINTED PART IN THE SHOP... Maybe try covering the bucket in a dampened towel - and wire tie or duct tape it tightly to the top of the bucket and then just poke your "deposit end" through a hole in the towel/shop rag. You wouldn't want a fine mist of brake fluid floating around in the air and getting on something!!

It's like a hammer -- a hammer is used to find the most expensive part nearest the item you're trying to hit.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 10-31-2009, 04:35 PM
69MyWay's Avatar
69MyWay 69MyWay is offline
Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Clinton, IL
Posts: 1,256
Thanks: 8
Thanked 13 Times in 6 Posts
Default

Since I have hijacked this thread...might as well keep rolling.

Hey Greg...I'm stumped. I re-bench bled the m/c. Getting plenty of flow to the front - all is perfect there.

On the rear (which is also on the rear of the m/c) I am able to get all the air out and it seems to flow well.

When I hook it to the car, I can't get any flow to work down the line. All these lines were new and dry.

I opened it up at the distribution block - and when pressing the pedal can get it to squirt out there, but not much.

I have opened the lines and can't get it to gravity bleed at all.

I tried my siphon technique. It is making good suction, but it won't pull anything to the rear.

I'm stumped.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 10-31-2009, 05:11 PM
Vegas69's Avatar
Vegas69 Vegas69 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,663
Thanks: 86
Thanked 210 Times in 119 Posts
Default

A mechanical vaccum pump will work or pump the hell out of the brakes for a couple minutes.
__________________
Todd
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 10-31-2009, 08:03 PM
GregWeld's Avatar
GregWeld GregWeld is offline
Lateral-g Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Scottsdale, AriDzona
Posts: 20,642
Thanks: 504
Thanked 1,076 Times in 384 Posts
Default

Right -- you're just pushing the air out of the lines and displacing it with fluid...
It will take a bit - full new lines - and calipers...

I had trouble getting my rears (not my rear) started when I did this -- and was surprised at the "effort" it took -- and I have a one man air operated vacuum bleeder!
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 11-01-2009, 03:40 PM
69MyWay's Avatar
69MyWay 69MyWay is offline
Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Clinton, IL
Posts: 1,256
Thanks: 8
Thanked 13 Times in 6 Posts
Default

Hey Greg,

Okay...I'm going to go with pump the snot out of it.

However, here is my question.

Pump it with the bleeder open or closed?

Pump it closed a whole lot...then go through the pump down, hold, bleed...

Or....leave the line open and just pump???
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 11-01-2009, 04:44 PM
wedged wedged is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 405
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts
Default

69- (a different Greg responding here) - get a piece of hose that fits the bleeder fitting on the rear caliper- if you don't have any, the vinyl hose at hardware stores is perfect. Open the bleeder and install the hose then put the open end of the hose into a soda bottle with enough fluid to cover the open end of the hose- 1/2" will do. Then slowly pump the pedal about 6-10 times. Check the level in the bottle to see if it raised and in the MC to see if it dropped. This is a great quick way to push the air out & fluid in. once you have fluid from all 4 wheels, then go back and bleed your favorite way. Putting the hose end into fluid prevents the back flow of air when the MC piston returns. Instead it will suck up some fluid.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 11-01-2009, 04:48 PM
69MyWay's Avatar
69MyWay 69MyWay is offline
Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Clinton, IL
Posts: 1,256
Thanks: 8
Thanked 13 Times in 6 Posts
Default

Thanks Greg II ! LOL

Done that many times. I have just never had one that refused to move fluid to the rear. I have done a dozen of these old Corvettes (first manual brake model - not that it matters) and have not had such an issue moving the fluid.

Seems like there is nothing happening outback - but I know it is moving fluid at the mc as I have a clear bleeder tube that you can watch it move the air around until it is all gone.

Yep...I'll re-bleed at the m/c on the bench, then hook the hose to the rear and commence pumping. My wife has really nice strong sexy legs...maybe I can convince her to come out and give them an extra work out! She is always handy to pump while I bleed - but this one will take an OVER time commitment.
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 11-01-2009, 05:17 PM
wedged wedged is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 405
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69MyWay View Post
My wife has really nice strong sexy legs...maybe I can convince her to come out and give them an extra work out! She is always handy to pump while I bleed - but this one will take an OVER time commitment.





oh- another thing- On occasion, I have had a similar thing happen. You may want to try closing all of the bleeders, then give a hard, swift STOMP on the pedal. Then re-try the hose trick and see what happens.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:51 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net