Your subframe is exactly what I'm in the midst of planning. It looks as if you're using a fox body mustang rack. Did you have to modify the rack at all or are you running it stock width? Did you have to use any inline reducers to get the 3gpm GM pump to work with the 2gpm Ford rack?
Are you using the stock steering arms from the C5 spindles?
What have you figured your bump steer to be?
Sorry if this is too many questions. I'm happy to see someone else going about this on their own, rather than opening a crate.
The rack is from a 92 mustang. Two turns lock to lock on the steering wheel. I havn't plumbed the lines yet, but I suspect I'll have to get my local hose shop to make a custom line for me. I'm no where near that point in the build yet. The bump steer should be pretty minimal from my calcs, but I havn't put the car on the alignment rack yet. AME makes these cool bump steer spacers that effectly lower the Tie rod mount on the spindle, that seemed to fix the issue. The rack is stock I did not mofify it all. Contact Matt at AME for the spacers, they make a kit with the rod ends and all. I plan on taking the car to my local race shop and make sure it's all square and can be aligned properly before I go any farther, as soon as I can borrow a trailer it's on the way. I hung the front fenders on it last week and I'm able to get a 305 18" tire on the front with only a slight amount of rub on the frame at full lock. 315 18's on the back.
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No Shop, No Money, No Time.... No problem!
More updates.... I swear this build is going to be longer than Marty's Truck! After a long cold wet winter, I've finally gotten back on my project. I trailered the car to my local shop to check sqaureness and Alignment shortly after the first post. It came in 1/16 of being perfectly square, so I'm happy with how the suspension is turning out. Alignment specs are right where I wanted them, from +1 to -5 camber and Minimal Bump Steer. I pulled the motor and trans back out and am now doing the brake plumbing and smoothing the firewall. All the rear brake lines are done as well as the master cylinder, prop valve and the new Hydraulic Clutch assembly. I cut the old beat up firewall out and I'm going to make a new smoother piece. I'm also going to relief the section behind the motor about 1.5" for additional clearance. (the motor is set back about an 1 from stock) I'm not happy at all with the motor mounts, so I'm going to cut them out and make a new set with 1 3/4 DOM tubing, extending up to the shock mounts for additional support on the suspension.
The last pic shows why I havn't been working on the car as much as I should, I've developed this nasty racing habit that I can't kick...
Sorry to disappoint you guys with the pictures but the Bikini babe is gone, My wife said I couldn't keep her when she moved back in the house this fall.
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No Shop, No Money, No Time.... No problem!
I just noticed that it was stated that the rear end should have been up higher and I have to say that it is several inches of from the stock ride height angles.
The other thing I noticed is that the square mounts on the top outer mounting bolts are not being used. The way they are supposed to be supported is by the bolcks on the frame and the batwing bolts to the bushings are centered under a load otherwise you will compress the bushing all of the time eventually distorting it and making it loose. Paying close attention to the way the factory did things is very important and some parts are there for a very good reason even though it will work without them for awhile.
There are lots of details that will come up and the solutions are out there but you have to decide if you can afford them or not.
Custom offset wheels will make or break the way you build this and the way it looks or you are stuck with a lot of compromises. $3-$5k worth of wheels can remedy a lot clearance issues.
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May the Horsepower Be With You !!!!
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
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