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  #1  
Unread 07-16-2017, 08:26 PM
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Default Hot Rod fix or HACK Opinions please

Hi guy need to ask a question. My headers which are already coated and on the car are interfering with my transmission connection to the cable for the shifter. I've been thinking of all kinds of fixes, changing the range shift selector rod to a short one which the valve body has to be lowered to remove a nail which holds it in. ( Not in my range of abilities). Then having a new shift lever made, (which I'm not opposed to)

Then the question Hot Rod fix or HACK
I thought of this a while ago while dealing with my oil cooler lines. space the header out at the head, hear me out!! I could get a header flange and longer, better bolts from ARP and put the flange between the head and the original header flange with RTV or what ever would be best to seal then together and the gasket between the head and header. This would also solve my heat and space problem for the oil cooler lines.

Here is the shifter problem



Here is with the header flange spaced a little over a 1/4"



Here it's about 7/16" spaced



how close the oil line were, they're tighter than they look.



And with the header spaced out.



What do you think? Hot Rod or Hack?
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Last edited by waynieZ : 07-16-2017 at 09:23 PM.
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Unread 07-16-2017, 09:32 PM
JKnight JKnight is offline
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Can you flip the shifter cable bracket over so the bend in the bracket jogs away from the header rather than towards it?
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Unread 07-16-2017, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKnight View Post
Can you flip the shifter cable bracket over so the bend in the bracket jogs away from the header rather than towards it?
No the lever has holes for three types of transmissions and of course mine is the furthest towards where the problem is, all the way to the front.

It's the top hole (in pic) on the square end which faces forward.

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Unread 07-17-2017, 06:56 AM
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Looks to me like that is your o2 sensor bung....correct? No amount of spacing will give you the room to clear the sensor. Best thing to do is relocate the sensor to clear...and have the headers re-coated....

The oil cooler line looks fine to mew, you have heat shielding on it.....it should be good...

T,
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Unread 07-17-2017, 07:18 AM
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Tom, that bung will be capped off its already move to the ther side of the header. On the hoses it is so tight we made a sheet metal shield you can feel it touch when sliding in.
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Unread 07-17-2017, 07:56 AM
1Bad68Cat 1Bad68Cat is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynieZ View Post
No the lever has holes for three types of transmissions and of course mine is the furthest towards where the problem is, all the way to the front.

It's the top hole (in pic) on the square end which faces forward.


How about trying to re-bend the bracket? Use a vise/hammer to straighten then make the jog the other way.
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Unread 07-17-2017, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynieZ View Post
Tom, that bung will be capped off its already move to the ther side of the header. On the hoses it is so tight we made a sheet metal shield you can feel it touch when sliding in.
I see it now, it's the hose in the back. Can you source a 45 degree fitting to extend the front one down and at an angle to angle away from the rear one?

Something like this.... http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/AT924110/10002/-1

What size are your oil lines?

As for the shifter bracket, I would take a BFH and straighten it out to give you clearance if you can do so.

T,

Last edited by TomM : 07-17-2017 at 09:53 AM.
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Unread 07-17-2017, 10:50 AM
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Tom My oil lines are -12 . where you see it is the place with the most clearance to get it to the front. I can't go below the tube because it ends up below the oil pan. I should have made the oil lines for the first 10" out of stainless or aluminum that would have made more room anmd aluminum could have been welded to the pan adapter without fittings.

1Bad68Cat
Even with the BFH it still doesn't have enough room. It would need to be offset in the opposite side 1/2"-3/4" I don't want to change the geomitry of the bracket.
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Last edited by waynieZ : 07-18-2017 at 06:58 AM.
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Unread 07-17-2017, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynieZ View Post
Tom My oil lines are -12 . where you see it is the place with the most clearance to get it to the front. I can't go below the tube because it ends up below the oil pan. I should have made the oil lines for the first 10" out of stainless or aluminum that would have made more room anmd aluminum could have been welded to the pan without fittings.

1Bad68Cat
Even with the BFH it still doesn't have enough room. It would need to be offset in the opposite side 1/2"-3/4" I don't want to change the geomitry of the bracket.
Okay...got it. So, on the front fitting, is there a way you can turn it slightly outboard of the engine, and then put a 45 degree fitting on it instead of straight so it can point down slightly and run outboard alongside the rear line?

How much can you grind off the O2 bung and still get a plug in there? If you aren't comfortable bending the shifter bracket inboard, you may have to grind the bung off completely, seal the hole and re coat the headers. I would think you could bend the bracket inboard.......

T,
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Unread 07-17-2017, 04:19 PM
DT69Cam DT69Cam is offline
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Can you use a shorter spacer ?? A shorter spacer would bring you in tighter to the transmission. If the shift cable will hit the trans doing this, install the cable between the header and bracket. not as it is now, between the transmission and bracket.
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Last edited by DT69Cam : 07-17-2017 at 04:22 PM.
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