Budget '69 Camaro Track Car - NO WHINERS!

[Flash68]

Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab

With his increased speeds and forces he will be seeing soon its going to have to happen but not at the expense of other very important aspects of the car that shall be left unidentified.

Gaetano and I need to sit down and pin point actual issues and correect them. Doing that on a budget is tough on all of us. One change at a time.

Certainly you guys have a handle on it and are the only ones to decide the priority order best for you guys, but I would think protecting a very expensive aluminum block monster would be pretty high.

I was very glad to hear G purchased a full set of proper safety attire recently.

[Ron in SoCal]

Originally Posted by Flash68

I was very glad to hear G purchased a full set of proper safety attire recently.

x2!

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Don't get me wrong, there is a valid point in oiling protection but at this point is it truly a concern if he has adequate oil pressure, adequate oil cooling and filtering. With this type of usage engine failure is unpredictable but safeguards within his ability are in place. Come winter this car gets its planned teardown. It has been through three seasons with one failure.
We can throw tons of money at it now and it might fail just due to age. You never know and what I do know is we need to address the concerns that I can't mention without getting the stink eye.

It took him this long to replace his home depot bucket for a real one and thats only cause I took a dump in it. ROFL

[intocarss]

Originally Posted by Flash68

I was very glad to hear G purchased a full set of proper safety attire recently.

IT'S ABOUT TIME AND I HOPE YOU DO THE SAME

[Track Junky]

Originally Posted by Vegas69

A properly plumbed accumulator will use a one way valve or drain back filter so the oil is pushed from the accumulator right into the main galley. Payton is right, it will lube the crank and fill the pan so the pump doesn't cavitate. There is a pressure gauge on the accumulator with the manual valve. You just subtract the 6psi precharge off the total. I would simply rev up the engine with my right hand and close it at say 60 or 70 psi.

My understanding of the accumulators with the mechanical valves is that they will kick in at the oil pressure it was shut down at. If your shutting it down at 60 or 70 it wouldn't dispurse until you reached 60 or 70.

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab

It took him this long to replace his home depot bucket for a real one and thats only cause I took a dump in it. ROFL

Now that's motivational!

[Vegas69]

Originally Posted by Track Junky

My understanding of the accumulators with the mechanical valves is that they will kick in at the oil pressure it was shut down at. If your shutting it down at 60 or 70 it wouldn't dispurse until you reached 60 or 70.

Your overthinking this whole deal. Once the manual valve is open, engine oil pressure and accumulator pressure are equal. If you start to lose oil pressure in a corner, the accumulator piston will simply push oil into the engine until pressure resumes to normal, then the accumulator piston will return and the cylinder will be at full capacity. It only reacts to a decrease in oil pressure on the engine side. It's like a shock for your suspension.

[Flash68]

Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab

It took him this long to replace his home depot bucket for a real one and thats only cause I took a dump in it. ROFL

That's one way to

Originally Posted by intocarss

IT'S ABOUT TIME AND I HOPE YOU DO THE SAME

I got everything except a HANS and it's on the shopping list.

Originally Posted by Vegas69

Your overthinking this whole deal. Once the manual valve is open, engine oil pressure and accumulator pressure are equal. If you start to lose oil pressure in a corner, the accumulator piston will simply push oil into the engine until pressure resumes to normal, then the accumulator piston will return and the cylinder will be at full capacity. It only reacts to a decrease in oil pressure on the engine side. It's like a shock for your suspension.

Don't mess with the SAE mechanic.

[Vegas69]

Really good article... http://www.stockcarracing.com/techar..._accumulators/

[FETorino]

Originally Posted by Vegas69

Your overthinking this whole deal. Once the manual valve is open, engine oil pressure and accumulator pressure are equal. If you start to lose oil pressure in a corner, the accumulator piston will simply push oil into the engine until pressure resumes to normal, then the accumulator piston will return and the cylinder will be at full capacity. It only reacts to a decrease in oil pressure on the engine side. It's like a shock for your suspension.

Todd is right Did I just say that Yea I did.

Another way to look at it. It's a big syringe. Setting it up the first time You put 50+ lbs of air into the back side with the engine off and the valve open. That pushes the piston all the way down. Then you bleed the air pressure down to about 10lbs.

Now you have an empty syringe. When the engine starts up the engine oil pressure fills the syringe and pressurizes the air on the backside. The syringe is set to give the shot.

If the oil pressure drops Dr Air pressure give it a nice smooth shot of oil.

As soon as the oil pressure rises back up the syringe refills.

Don't get confused by the valve. It doesn't do squat while the car is running. It's only purpose is to trap oil in the syringe when you shut the motor off. You have to close it before the motor is off so it traps oil in the syringe.

The only reason to run a cable or electric valve is convenience. You don't have to get out of the car while it is still running to trap the oil in the Accusump.

Hope I made it more confusing.