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Old 03-02-2015, 12:48 AM
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Default 68 camaro proportioning valve (combination valve)HELP?

Hi Guys

I have new front 6 piston wilwood calipers, new wilwood floating calipers for the rear installed last weekend, and Wilwood master cylinder, which was installed by the previous owner. I recently replaced the old distribution block with a combination valve or proportioning valve similar to the photo attached below

http://s218.photobucket.com/user/72Z...nf9h.jpg.html][/URL]

I filled the master cylinder with brake fluid and disconnected the flexi lines to the calipers in order to flush the system (Gravity Method) . However, I realized that NO fluid was passing through the combination valve.

So I need your advise on this issue and what should be done to resolve it.

Thanks in advance
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Last edited by 72Z/28; 03-02-2015 at 09:12 AM.
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Old 03-02-2015, 08:31 PM
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So nobody is using this type of proportioning valve??!!
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Old 03-02-2015, 09:28 PM
kevmurray kevmurray is offline
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I dont have the one in the photo (what make is it?) but I have some thoughts. I wonder what happens if you disconnect a valve input line? Does fluid begin to gravity feed out the line? If not your master may not retract enough to open the ports to the resevoir. This might be a rod that is too long for your application.

If fluid does come out then it must be something to do with the valve. A true combination valve will hold off the front disc callipers so that pressure can build up in the rear (to get rear drums working before bringing in the front brakes). Maybe this explains the front not bleeding, is the rear not bleeding either?

With the valve lines connected can you step on the pedal to see if the increased pressure gets the fluid moving?
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevmurray View Post
I dont have the one in the photo (what make is it?) but I have some thoughts. I wonder what happens if you disconnect a valve input line? Does fluid begin to gravity feed out the line? If not your master may not retract enough to open the ports to the resevoir. This might be a rod that is too long for your application.

If fluid does come out then it must be something to do with the valve. A true combination valve will hold off the front disc callipers so that pressure can build up in the rear (to get rear drums working before bringing in the front brakes). Maybe this explains the front not bleeding, is the rear not bleeding either?

With the valve lines connected can you step on the pedal to see if the increased pressure gets the fluid moving?
Well the only item I changed is the combination valve. Earlier there was a normal distribution block and fluid was flowing normally via gravity without any obstruction. I am not quite sure if the valve can be adjusted
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Old 03-03-2015, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72Z/28 View Post
So nobody is using this type of proportioning valve??!!
Does that block have the ability to adjust the amount of fluid pressure to the rear brake line?

If not it's a distribution block.

This is how I plumbed my manual system with a Wilwood combination distribution & proportioning valve mounted below the master cylinder. I also incorporated the OEM delay valve just because. The master cylinder was bench bled following the instructions available on Wilwood's website prior to installation.

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Old 03-03-2015, 01:06 AM
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Is the master bled? what about when you push the brake pedal down?
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Last edited by Vince@Meanstreets; 03-03-2015 at 01:09 AM.
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Old 03-03-2015, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sieg View Post
Does that block have the ability to adjust the amount of fluid pressure to the rear brake line?

If not it's a distribution block.

This is how I plumbed my manual system with a Wilwood combination distribution & proportioning valve mounted below the master cylinder. I also incorporated the OEM delay valve just because. The master cylinder was bench bled following the instructions available on Wilwood's website prior to installation.

It is a valve from Right Stuff Detailing:



I disconnected the inlet lines to the valve, and barely little brake fluid passed from the master cylinder ports. I also installed new rear brake line. My guess is the system is full of air as well as the master cylinder itself through which the fluid is not passing to the valve.
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68 Camaro:
LS6 Engine,Tremec TKO 600,5 Speed
Complete Speedtech Subframe Kit,Speedtech Torque Arm, 9" Rearend from Strange, Wilwood Brakes, Minitubbed, Hotchkis Subframe Connectors, FIKSE FM5s

Last edited by 72Z/28; 03-03-2015 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 03-03-2015, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab View Post
Is the master bled? what about when you push the brake pedal down?
Most like air is trapped inside. I disconnected the flexi lines to rear calipers,pushed the brake pedal down and noticed bubbles inside the master cylinder with the lead off.

Is this the reason why fluid not going through the valve or even through the MC ports while lines to the valve are disconnected?
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68 Camaro:
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Complete Speedtech Subframe Kit,Speedtech Torque Arm, 9" Rearend from Strange, Wilwood Brakes, Minitubbed, Hotchkis Subframe Connectors, FIKSE FM5s
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  #9  
Old 03-03-2015, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72Z/28 View Post
Most like air is trapped inside. I disconnected the flexi lines to rear calipers,pushed the brake pedal down and noticed bubbles inside the master cylinder with the lead off.

Is this the reason why fluid not going through the valve or even through the MC ports while lines to the valve are disconnected?
I believe so. You have to get some of the air out to get fluid to flow. Especially the master cylinder. Once the master goes dry you have to bleed it again.

Bench bleed the master, then hook up the feed lines to the prop valve then bleed after the prop/combo valve.
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ACCUAIR rideheight control systems
ENTROPY RADIATORS XXX radiators for your pro-touring vehicle
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WEGNER AUTOMOTIVE Custom engines and LSX drive systems
SPEEDTECH PERFORMANCE Bay Area stocking dealer

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Old 03-04-2015, 01:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab View Post
I believe so. You have to get some of the air out to get fluid to flow. Especially the master cylinder. Once the master goes dry you have to bleed it again.

Bench bleed the master, then hook up the feed lines to the prop valve then bleed after the prop/combo valve.
Since the MC already installed on the car, can I do the bleed without removing the MC,if possible, How can I do so?

Thanks in advance
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68 Camaro:
LS6 Engine,Tremec TKO 600,5 Speed
Complete Speedtech Subframe Kit,Speedtech Torque Arm, 9" Rearend from Strange, Wilwood Brakes, Minitubbed, Hotchkis Subframe Connectors, FIKSE FM5s
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