Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicjoe23
OK, I was finally able to read the casting numbers. . .the passenger side was basically illegible no matter what, but the driver's side was easy to read with just a quick shot of engine de-greaser.
061. . .should be 1967 400 2BBL/4BBL heads with 72cc (or 75cc depending on what site you look at) chambers, press-in studs, and 2.11"/1.77" I/E valves if online sources are correct.
I also finally found the part number on the carb 1850-4 with 3145 below it. . .should be a Holley 4160 600 cfm with vacuum secondaries and a mechanical choke. Should be a good starting point for a relatively stock engine I would think.
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Joe, those are the basic D-port headd. If you plan to pull the heads off (or are rebuilding the whole engine) ... I suggest you have a knowledgeable person remove any dimples from the port floor & rework the bowls under both valves ... then do a quality multi-angle valve job where they lap the valve in a final step & install 7/16" screw in rocker studs. This will not hurt any responsiveness nor torque. It will just help these heads build more power from 2500 rpm up to 5500.
The cam I'd recommend is based on your goals & usage. If this is a frequent "driver" ... and/or you want a very mild performance set-up ... I'd recommend this package
HERE with 1.5 ratio rockers. This will be a good, all around, easy to drive package with power right off idle all the way to 4800-5200 rpm. (Shift at 5000)
If you're looking for a higher level of power ... have a manual trans with at least 3.73 or lower rear gears ... consider this cam package
HERE. The engine will lope, have less vacuum & not be as smooth taking off from idle. It will run stronger from 2000 rpm & up ... to 5500 +/-.
Pick your poison & Best wishes !