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View Full Version : C6 Brakes or ..............?


tyoneal
08-29-2006, 11:34 PM
To all:

From what I have read, the Corvette C6 Brakes seam to be a really good bang for the buck, even comparing in quality to the Wilwood and Baer Products. (Supposedly designed for hard use (Track/Road) and 200 mph stopping power of a 3600 pound car)

Given this is true, why are not more people running them? Between the cost, availablity of parts, performance and price, it seems like a no brainer on what to choose for my car.

What am I missing, and if my information is inaccurate, please correct.

Thanks,

tyoneal

71Nova
08-30-2006, 01:14 AM
I have been thinking about using them after I get the AFX spindles. Do you have any pricing info on them? calipers, mount and Disk.

fatlife
08-30-2006, 01:38 AM
There are a few reasons, one of them is that some people have extra money to spend and just want the best, others need more and consitant stopping power, and another factor is looks. For 99% of the cars that you see and read about, the C5/C6 brakes(nearly identical) will be more than enough, and these days they are dirt cheap.

The six piston baer brakes,wilwoods,apracing, stoptech, and brembo are all great brakes, even if a few of them have different things going for them. IMO a big factor is the "wow factor" most of the PT rides have wheels that show the brakes, and most people like to have the brakes kinda making that "OOOH" statement. These days the brakes can be as a big deal as the paint and wheel combo as they are so visible.

People who are more concerned with going faster actually can utilize the bigger/better brakes, as they give more conistant, grip, and heat resistance than something like a C5 setup. Plus they are usually lighter which helps save unsprung weight. ALso the trick setups have floating rotors which help reduce rotor warping and other things.

IMO the bigger brake setups are mostly a waste on most street cars, or even cars that people are going to track, as it takes a lot longer for a driver to get fast enough to even use the brakes enough to warrant the need for something bigger/better. Its more of a "who's got what" thing. But it probably is the best thing to waste money on if you are going too. Nothing better than having good brakes even if you don't use them to their potential. Thing is that most people think of better brakes = better stopping distance which isn't always true, yeah you will get a better stopping distance but only IF you are that good at braking on the verge of lockup. The key to these higher end brakes is that they won't be affected by heat as much, and will provide more grip and clamping force, all things that prevail under extreme enviroments IE a proficient driver at the track.

If I remember CarlC in his basic/simple yet fast 68 camaro was running C4 brakes with race pads, and had no problems and was outrunning almost everyone on the track, and another guy in a C5 corvette finally boiled the fluid in the car(all stock brake system) not until the very end of the day after making extended passes without any cool off time. Some higher temp brake fluid would of solved that problem, although better brakes will transmit less heat into the system.

So what does this all mean? If you think the C5 brake system Looks good enough for you, it will work just fine and probably beyond what you will need. I would recommend touring classics kit, for the price there is no need to try and piece together for yourself. I have installed a set on a 68 firebird and it worked great.(although they only offered a manual master cylinder)

BTW I would recommend to not get crossdrilled rotors if you plan on putting some heat into the rotors, it took me a long time to finallly realize this, I would never listen, and am guilty of having crossdrilled rotors but in all honestly I now think solid rotors not only look better, but all the morons at autozone won't drool over your "poser rotors" LOL

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/1617/p1010056hi2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Edit: and we all know its impossible to do 200mph :willy:

Vince@MSperfab
08-30-2006, 01:53 AM
great points fattie and very imformative...although Troy did encounter problems with over heating C5's but it was if you remember 110 degrees out, he had no direct ducting and did it to beat up on two Porsches. So in all reality did fairly well.

I still believe high temp fluid and direct ducting would have helped.

As far as factory C5/C6 brake usage is concerned? Not too sure, might be the belief that factory is crap? I think the C6 Z51 set up is more than adaquate for a hard driven street/ moderate track car. The Z06 package might be overkill for some but will be fine for the harder racers.

Personally I hope they keep looking the stuff over cause it makes it cheaper for us regular guys to get. I use the C5 set up on 2 of my cars and the performance is more than I need. vin

sneek attach beatch :thumbsup: slotted rotors are fine

71Nova
08-30-2006, 03:11 AM
Just in case anyone does not know what calipers we are talking about here is a picture I stole from chevrolet.com and the text that was with it.

"Corvette Z06 employs monoblock six-piston front calipers and four-piston rear calipers. Each piston utilizes its own pad. The opposing pistons operate in pairs, applying brake pressure equally to each side of the rotor. The extra-large 14-inch front rotors and 13.4-inch rears are vented and cross-drilled. Brake cooling ducts are capable of moving twice the amount of cooling air compared to the previous-generation Z06.

ProTouring442
08-30-2006, 04:51 AM
I am planning on running the Z06 6piston stuff.... as soon as I am employed again that is!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
'72 442 "Inamorata"

T Bell
08-30-2006, 07:11 AM
for me, the Touring Classics are the way to go and mine won't see many track days. But I think fatlife summed it up. It's mainly for looks. And ssssssh don't tell everybody about the low price of them. Atleast until I get mine. You are spoiling it for everyone.

68protouring454
08-30-2006, 08:04 AM
the c6 z51 package is c5 calipers, with different abutments front and rear as the front rotors are 13-3/8 actual and 13 inch in the rear. its what i am running
jake

Rob07002
08-30-2006, 08:41 AM
Where does one get good pricing on these brakes?

Any Chevy dealers out there whom you guys deal with on a regular basis?

Steve68
08-30-2006, 09:25 AM
I had C4 13" rotors that had gas slots, but since I have have upgraded to ATS spindles I need some C5 rotors with gas slots, I'm really not into the drilled holes, I've seen lots of cracks, and I have just hooked up with my BMW friends, so track days are eveident, can't wait,

anybody have a source of gas slotted C5 rotors???

HAULNSS
08-30-2006, 09:55 AM
I run Wilwood 4 pistons on the front of my Impala SS. I got a good deal using my car as a 'prototype', but have really started to enjoy the benefits of good brakes. :D

I like the Wilwood drop in pads. Remove one allen bolt and the pads drop in from the top of the caliper. Wilwood also has an extensive line of pads for many applications. I have a low dust quite pad for the street and a more aggressive pad for the track (more dust, some noise and works great when hot). The pads are pretty thick, too. I haven't wore out a set yet.

The Wilwoods really increased the amount of time I can spend on the track. At BIR (3.1 mile course), I can get an extra 3-4 laps out of the brakes (compared to stock) before I start to get the spongy feeling. :thumbsup:

Now, for most guys, I would imagine they will never work the car to the point of worrying about brake fade and heat. Any decent caliper and rotor upgrade should be sufficient, as long as the fluid is changed regularly. Just a simple fluid flush would make a noticable difference in the resistance to fading for most people.

If you are going to upgrade, make sure to use good calipers, good rotors, good fluid and a suitable pad. The best brake setup will still suck with old crappy fluid and cheap pads. :yes:

Personally, I also avoid the crossdrilled rotors. I have witnessed too many crack when they 'connect the dots' and several have broken in pieces after a hard track run. They look good for the eye candy on the street, but most aren't up to the task of hard track use.

There is my long winded 2 cents on brake upgrades. Whew! :faint:

Randy

fatlife
08-30-2006, 11:27 AM
Just in case anyone does not know what calipers we are talking about here is a picture I stole from chevrolet.com and the text that was with it.

"Corvette Z06 employs monoblock six-piston front calipers and four-piston rear calipers. Each piston utilizes its own pad. The opposing pistons operate in pairs, applying brake pressure equally to each side of the rotor. The extra-large 14-inch front rotors and 13.4-inch rears are vented and cross-drilled. Brake cooling ducts are capable of moving twice the amount of cooling air compared to the previous-generation Z06.

You mean these? ;)
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/5041/p1030100ug3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
These brakes are the ultimate in bling, 6 piston caliper with 14" rotors. Too bad the front rotors weigh like 28 ilbs and one of them vents backwards since the left and right rotors are identical yet have directional venting :( Second, they have bad pad wear, the multi pad setup works great on bikes, but apparantly sucks with these, the pads wear with huge taper. Plus a good set of pads (stock GM ones belong in the garbage) are like $400 front and rear. They look killer but thats about it, if you look closely there is a C5 caliper in the background which was put back on the car after taking these brand new ones off.

Also the original poster did not say anything about Z06 brakes, are you sure that is what he is talking about? If you are interested, I have more pics and more info about these, but unless you are running really big wheels, and want boat anchor rotors, and pads that dont wear right stay away from them.

fatlife
08-30-2006, 11:38 AM
Also for summary;
F body LS1 brakes-= 2 piston sliding caliper, same as C5 but with no cooling fins built into caliper body, 12" rotor, 12" rear

C5 brakes= 2 piston sliding caliper with 12.8" directional rotor front
1 piston sliding caliper with 12" directional rotor rear

C5 Z06 identical to C5 but with red calipers

C6 brakes= same is C5

C6 brakes with optional Z51= same calipers as C5, differnet abutments(bracket) with a 13.4" front directional rotor, but same rotor left and right meaning that one side will be backwards, meaning that it will not cool the same as the other side. They are crossdrilled also.
Rear is same caliper as C5 but with differnet abutment, 13" directioal but same as the front 2 of the same side rotor, same cooling problems.

C6 Zo6= 6 Piston monoblock individual brake padlets calipers, 14" crossdrilled directional rotor, same rotor left and right meaning one side will be backwards, will not cool the same left and right.
Rear is a 4 piston monoblock individual brake padlets caliper, 13.5" crossdrilled rotor same directional problem as front

Weaver
08-30-2006, 12:15 PM
How much for the touring classics and can they handle 18 and 20 inch wheels?

thanks,

Weaver

for me, the Touring Classics are the way to go and mine won't see many track days. But I think fatlife summed it up. It's mainly for looks. And ssssssh don't tell everybody about the low price of them. Atleast until I get mine. You are spoiling it for everyone.

rwhite692
08-30-2006, 01:03 PM
... Too bad the front rotors weigh like 28 ilbs


With a larger diameter, (thicker also? not sure) rotor, would it not make sense that it would weigh more than the C5?

fatlife
08-30-2006, 01:34 PM
With a larger diameter, (thicker also? not sure) rotor, would it not make sense that it would weigh more than the C5?

Well this huge piece of casting on the back of the rotor could be a reason! I know that stoptech 14" rotors are only like 18 ilbs.
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/2151/p1030096ul4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

rwhite692
08-30-2006, 02:59 PM
I'm sure that the additional metal is there for a reason. That much material can sink a lot of heat....

fatlife
08-30-2006, 03:49 PM
if thats true then why don't any of the top manufactures use huge 10ilb cast iron centers? Why use thin light weight aluminum? And if were going with this logic, why have 2 left hand side rotors????? Trust me, I thought they were going to be great also, but I finally realized that they were no good. All of the Z06 guys dump these brakes and go with something better if they plan on beating on the car.

71Nova
08-30-2006, 04:04 PM
Good info. I thought c6 brakes were Z06 brakes. I guess the 2 pistons are the standard c6 brakes. I did not realise the venting is backwards on one side, and that they used a big casting for the disk instead of using an aluminum hat. Thanks for posting the more detailed pics because I was curious but did not know the details on the new monoblock. Looks like other monoblock calipers such as the Baer 6s have some advantages.

Vince@MSperfab
08-31-2006, 12:17 AM
those calipers, ceramic pads and slotted rotors would work just fine. FL did you dump those yet?

fatlife
08-31-2006, 12:32 AM
sold them awhile ago, made a few bucks too :unibrow: and I wouldn't recommend ceramic pads, well at least not fully ceramic, if I recall full ceramic pads don't give as good braking, but they are really quiet and dust free

tyoneal
09-04-2006, 11:55 PM
Thanks for all the great post.

Let me re-phrase the question, based on the following specs.

1) fits 69 Camaro w/ 17 and/or 18 inch wheels

2) Good value for the money (This doesn't mean the cheapest)

3) Good variety of pads available

4) Pads easy to change, so for street or track use can be quickly changed (Would like to be able to drive the car hard on occasion)

5) Pads priced competitively

If possible what are your top 2 or 3 choices for these items, and why?

Thanks,

tyoneal

fatlife
09-05-2006, 10:41 AM
C5 and for all the reasons you just listed

chicane
09-05-2006, 03:52 PM
Standard C5/6. Parts availability is a no brainer and there are plenty of pads available. Good system, well thought out (or the OEM wouldnt use them to begin with) and an easy system to adapt. And the system cost is a real plus.

The PBR Z06 stuff is junk. Its pretty sad when a supplier can not provide both right and left specific rotors required to keep up with production ?? (Geeze, lets ship the systems with two lefts instead :rolleyes: ) Way too many problems right out of the box and maintenance is a PITA.... not to mention that pad replacement cost is a joke as well. The performance feed back I have recieved isnt all of what I thought either..... I was expecting so much more. Its is a great system for a street based chassis, but from what the boys have been telling me, they dont cut it for a serious track day.

Next.... and my first choice, as this is what I am running myself on my 67. APRacing CP5555 fronts and CP5147 rears. They are much better than most available mono blocks for any kind of money (this side of any caliper that cost $3k each). Better performance and cost wise over the Baer 6S/R systems that is for sure. They are lighter, stiffer and some of the available options are priceless. You can utilize a stock C5/6 rear parking brake mechanism and it is a true bolt on. If you can use a C5/6 package, these will fit. I would however recommend an 18" wheel package.... as the rotors are a 14x1.4 front and a 13x1.0 rear.

Front:
Brake Manufacturer: AP Racing
Caliper/Piston Number: CP5555, differential bore six-piston
Rotor Manufacturer: AP Racing
Rotor Type: Slotted 2 pc, McLaren floaters
Rotor Dimensions: 355mm x 35.5mm (14 x 1.4")
Wheel/Tire Size: 18x9.5 265/40/18
Tire make/model: BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KD
Brake Line: Stainless 3/16" hardline, Goodridge SS Flex lines
Brake Fluid: Motul RBF 600
Pad type/compound: Ferodo 2500
Master size: 7/8"
Weight: 33.5 lbs
Combined left and right: 67 lbs

http://www.dougrippie.com/images/c500rsr_front_caliper_and_rotor_small.JPG

Rear:
Brake Manufacturer: AP Racing
Caliper/Piston Number: CP5147, four-piston
Rotor Manufacturer: AP Racing
Rotor Type: Slotted 2 pc, **NEW** Iron hat, factory e-brake compatible
Rotor Dimensions: 330mm x 25.5mm (13 x 1")
Wheel/Tire Size: 18x9.5 275/40/18
Tire make/model: BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KD
Brake Line: Stainless 3/16" hard line, Goodridge SS Flex lines
Brake Fluid: Motul RBF 600
Pad type/compound: Pagid RS421
Master size: 1"
Weight: 27.5 lbs
Combined left and right: 55 lbs

http://www.dougrippie.com/images/c500rsr_rear_caliper_and_rotor_small1.JPG

This is the Holy Grail of brake systems.

I have installed and used various systems from every manufacturer..... (Alcon, AP Racing, Brembo, CNC, PBR, Perf Fric, JFZ, Stoptech and Wilwood) which also goes for pad/compounds (Axxis, Carbotech, Ferodo, Hawk, Pagid, Perf Fric, Porterfield, Poly Matrix, Raybestos and Mintex). The modulation, fade resistance, predictability and shear stopping power of these independant systems is nothing short of phenomenal.

Think.... 60-0 in under 90 feet.

C5/6 think.... 60-0 in around 105-112 feet.

fatlife
09-05-2006, 05:33 PM
So you like the ferrodos? they work killer on my bike. Haven't tried them on a car yet, but they will definetly be the first co I will consider.

BTW great post

chicane
09-05-2006, 06:31 PM
So you like the ferrodos? they work killer on my bike. Haven't tried them on a car yet, but they will definetly be the first co I will consider.

Well..... I havent had any time on the 67 yet.... due to...... well, lets just leave it at that.

But.... I have driven the DS2500's quite a bit in other chassis (specifically the C4 with some rather large Brembo's mounted) and I do like them. They have great cold bite and a pretty constant CF over the temperature band.

I however, really like the Pagid RS421's.... but you have to keep some temperature in them or they tend to be a little abrasive. Not too bad, but they will still lathe metal just fine when cold.

But my all time favorite street worthy pad is Porterfield's R4-S..... that would be the first pad I would try if you are up for a pad change. Then again......... do they make them for bike's !?!! I dunno.... Ill have to give ole Andy or Timmy a call.

chicane
09-05-2006, 08:48 PM
Hey fathead....... clean out your in box so I can PM you.

DuH.

Blown353
09-05-2006, 08:53 PM
Sorry for the quick sidetrack...


But my all time favorite street worthy pad is Porterfield's R4-S..... that would be the first pad I would try if you are up for a pad change. Then again......... do they make them for bike's !?!! I dunno.... Ill have to give ole Andy or Timmy a call.

Hey Tom, can you switch from R4-S to a set of R4 pads without having to rebed?

I'm in need of new brake pads on both my cars (the Chevelle and my Subaru STI) and I need street compounds for both plus a track compound for the STI (and eventually a track compound for the Chevelle.) Being able just to swap pads and go would be nice. I know Carbotech advises you can swap their pad compounds and not have to re-bed, can you do that with the Porterfields?

Also, how's the dust on the R4s? Is it corrosive? I'd rather not eat my wheels up as I don't have a set of track-only wheels for either car.

Finally, what's your opinion on the Carbotech compounds in general? I was also considering Bobcats for the street and probably Panther Plus for track duty.

chicane
09-05-2006, 09:04 PM
I am gonna have to say..... yes. They are pretty much the same compound and the only real difference is that you have to keep some heat into them or they will remain in an abrasive mode until you do. Think brake lathe.

The reason I know this ?? During the development I ran them on the street and took..... ahhh..... somewhere like 0.090" off of each surface (0.180" total) in less than 30 days. They never got hot enough to go into an adhearent mode.... but man did they ever stop !!!

If in doubt, call Andy or (most likely) Tim 949-548-4470. I cannot say for sure, but I am almost positive that you can with the "R4 - R4S" series compound.

Dust and the R4-S isnt too bad considering. The R4 compound however, will embed anything shiny. I killed a set of trim rings from that 30 day stint alone. I dont really know if it was more of carbon deposites or if it was the actual rotor material that embedded. Just remember to rinse them often and the best cleaner I have found for this is Eagle One's "etching mag wheel cleaner".

Havent really had any seat time with Bobcats.... the Panther+ however, were'nt all that bad as I remember. I think the limiting factor there was caliper availablity when I was doing a lot of brake testing.

Blown353
09-05-2006, 09:13 PM
Thanks for the info Tom.

Part of my inquiry about your impression of the Carbotechs is that at least for the STI the Bobcats are substantially cheaper than the R4-S, $50 cheaper for the fronts and $25 cheaper for the rears. That'll buy an axle's worth for the Chevelle. Autocross guys report they are very happy with the Bobcats. I obviously wouldn't subject them to an HPDE though being it's their "street" pad.

chicane
09-05-2006, 09:17 PM
Any thoughts toward the Pagid Rs421's ?? they would be good in a lighter weight low speed chassis.....

fatlife
09-05-2006, 09:17 PM
Hey fathead....... clean out your in box so I can PM you.

DuH.
Done, and btw that eagle mag cleaner will ruin billet wheels.

chicane
09-05-2006, 09:18 PM
You said billet.





Poser.

fatlife
09-05-2006, 09:27 PM
:_paranoid

Blown353
09-05-2006, 09:37 PM
Any thoughts toward the Pagid Rs421's ?? they would be good in a lighter weight low speed chassis.....
Hadn't considered them until you mentioned it. The STI isn't what I'd consider a lightweight either-- it's all of 3400lbs with me in the seat.

You said billet.

Poser.
LOL! At least he didn't say "ball milled."

fatlife
09-05-2006, 09:45 PM
.........1000hp......... :unibrow:

Blown353
09-05-2006, 09:56 PM
.........1000hp......... :unibrow:

Where? Not here, only at about 650rwhp. :P

It's way fun on the street but it'll be deboosted via a pulley change to about 5-6 psi (probably ~575-600 crank hp) for real tracks with turns. The engine and chassis would never live on a roadcourse at the 15psi of boost I run on the street and I don't pretend it would-- I'd heatsoak the sucker in a lap! I also don't have the brakes and all the other ancillary equipment that would be up to the task of handling 15psi on the track. I'm not lying to myself... I know I will have a handful at 5-6 psi of boost, leaving it at 15psi would be well beyond my abilities and the chassis capabilities. I'll still have fun though. :)

fatlife
09-05-2006, 10:04 PM
:thumbsup: wasn't really directed at you anyway, but sounds like a good plan!

chicane
09-05-2006, 10:06 PM
FYI:

The Pagid compound page. (http://www.braketechnology.com/racecharacteristics.html)

The RS421 is actually OE on:
AMG
Aston Martin
BMW Motorsport
Bugatti
Callaway
Ferrari
GM Performance Division
Lotus
Maserati
McLaren
Multimatic
Pratt & Miller Engineering
Porsche
AG
Porsche Motorsport North America
Riley Technologies

The BIG dog tuners. WOOF.

Blown353
09-05-2006, 10:07 PM
:thumbsup: wasn't really directed at you anyway, but sounds like a good plan!

LOL! I took it as a jab in my direction from the 1000hp thread that I had a little comment in. :P

Go back to polishing your billet. :D

FYI:

The Pagid compound page. (http://www.braketechnology.com/racecharacteristics.html)

The RS421 is actually OE on:


If only pads were $20 an axle, I'd buy about 10 different compounds from various brands and try all of them! Unfortunately they're not so I'd prefer to buy right the first time. Choices, choices. STOP MAKING THIS HARD TOM! Screw it, I'm gonna go get some lifetime pads from Midas. :lol:

fatlife
09-05-2006, 10:08 PM
actually, I'm going to polish my poser 19" FORGED wheels :D :D they've collected a lot of dust sitting in the garage for so long

tyoneal
09-06-2006, 12:12 AM
Standard C5/6. Parts availability is a no brainer and there are plenty of pads available. Good system, well thought out (or the OEM wouldnt use them to begin with) and an easy system to adapt. And the system cost is a real plus.

The PBR Z06 stuff is junk. Its pretty sad when a supplier can not provide both right and left specific rotors required to keep up with production ?? (Geeze, lets ship the systems with two lefts instead :rolleyes: ) Way too many problems right out of the box and maintenance is a PITA.... not to mention that pad replacement cost is a joke as well. The performance feed back I have recieved isnt all of what I thought either..... I was expecting so much more. Its is a great system for a street based chassis, but from what the boys have been telling me, they dont cut it for a serious track day.

Next.... and my first choice, as this is what I am running myself on my 67. APRacing CP5555 fronts and CP5147 rears. They are much better than most available mono blocks for any kind of money (this side of any caliper that cost $3k each). Better performance and cost wise over the Baer 6S/R systems that is for sure. They are lighter, stiffer and some of the available options are priceless. You can utilize a stock C5/6 rear parking brake mechanism and it is a true bolt on. If you can use a C5/6 package, these will fit. I would however recommend an 18" wheel package.... as the rotors are a 14x1.4 front and a 13x1.0 rear.

Front:
Brake Manufacturer: AP Racing
Caliper/Piston Number: CP5555, differential bore six-piston
Rotor Manufacturer: AP Racing
Rotor Type: Slotted 2 pc, McLaren floaters
Rotor Dimensions: 355mm x 35.5mm (14 x 1.4")
Wheel/Tire Size: 18x9.5 265/40/18
Tire make/model: BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KD
Brake Line: Stainless 3/16" hardline, Goodridge SS Flex lines
Brake Fluid: Motul RBF 600
Pad type/compound: Ferodo 2500
Master size: 7/8"
Weight: 33.5 lbs
Combined left and right: 67 lbs

http://www.dougrippie.com/images/c500rsr_front_caliper_and_rotor_small.JPG

Rear:
Brake Manufacturer: AP Racing
Caliper/Piston Number: CP5147, four-piston
Rotor Manufacturer: AP Racing
Rotor Type: Slotted 2 pc, **NEW** Iron hat, factory e-brake compatible
Rotor Dimensions: 330mm x 25.5mm (13 x 1")
Wheel/Tire Size: 18x9.5 275/40/18
Tire make/model: BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KD
Brake Line: Stainless 3/16" hard line, Goodridge SS Flex lines
Brake Fluid: Motul RBF 600
Pad type/compound: Pagid RS421
Master size: 1"
Weight: 27.5 lbs
Combined left and right: 55 lbs

http://www.dougrippie.com/images/c500rsr_rear_caliper_and_rotor_small1.JPG

This is the Holy Grail of brake systems.

I have installed and used various systems from every manufacturer..... (Alcon, AP Racing, Brembo, CNC, PBR, Perf Fric, JFZ, Stoptech and Wilwood) which also goes for pad/compounds (Axxis, Carbotech, Ferodo, Hawk, Pagid, Perf Fric, Porterfield, Poly Matrix, Raybestos and Mintex). The modulation, fade resistance, predictability and shear stopping power of these independant systems is nothing short of phenomenal.

Think.... 60-0 in under 90 feet.

C5/6 think.... 60-0 in around 105-112 feet.
-----------------------------
Chicane

Really interesting post. Obviously you have a great deal of knowledge regarding this subject.

Based on the Qualities I had outlined, would both of these systems fit the desired parameters? I realize there is a great deal of difference between the two.

Can you give me a rough estimate of the cost involved with the AP Racing Bakes you have vs. the C6 Brakes you mentioned? (Both upfront cost and maintenance)

I noticed the part number you mentioned for the rear brakes has probably changed from the newer part numbers. Do you know the newer number?

Where did you purchase your brakes?

Any difficulty finding pads for these?

Thanks again for the great post.

Regards,

tyoneal

tyoneal
09-06-2006, 12:15 AM
To All:

Is there a consensus that the C5/C6 Brakes for the first gens are probably the best bang for the buck for the street and some track work?

Thanks for all your contributions, this has really been informative.

tyoneal

fatlife
09-06-2006, 12:21 AM
yes ;)

T Bell
09-06-2006, 09:11 AM
How much for the touring classics and can they handle 18 and 20 inch wheels?

thanks,

Weaver

I think it was around $900. They are a sponsor here, I think. They should be anyways.

Steve1968LS2
09-06-2006, 11:12 AM
To All:

Is there a consensus that the C5/C6 Brakes for the first gens are probably the best bang for the buck for the street and some track work?

Thanks for all your contributions, this has really been informative.

tyoneal

Yes.. although this thread is a bit confusing.. at first you're talking about C6 brakes but then you show a picture of C6-Z06 brakes.

Both are great brake options but they are nothing alike. I'm a big fan of standard c5/c6 brakes and if they're good enough for a $50k sports car then they are good enough for most cars on here.

The new Z06 brakes are extra nice and a great deal for what you get. I think most people go aftermarket because it's easy. You order a kit and it comes with all the brackets you need to install them. Not so with trying to make some OEM brakes work on your XYZ car..

Oh, and they look sweet :)

I also agree with Yody that drilled rotors are not the best choice for the track. However if they are "drilled" right then the issues are minor. I drove the %$%# out my 2000 SS at the track and it had drilled Wilwood discs. Never had an issue, but you are more likely to have an issue with drilled rotors over solids. They do look sweet though and there's nothing wrong with that. lol

People want huge exotic brakes because it's what they want and what they can afford. Same reason people buy HRE wheels, fancy seats or billet hood hinges.

Leadfoot1
09-20-2006, 01:10 PM
Anybody know if the parts are available from gmpartsdirect.com? I've been there a few times and it seems like a good place to get VERY good prices.

How would one fit those 14" fr and 13" rear rotors?
Spindle choice?
caliper bracket?
Booster and Mc?

How about the rear?

Any company with the brackets out already? I think speedtech had one for the C5's...If i understood correctly, C6 would fit just the same. But would C6 Z06 (Z51) ???

If I'm gonna pose (poser!) might as well look good doing it!

Lead. ;)

Payton King
09-20-2006, 02:13 PM
www.corvetteforum.com I saw where someone was selling the whole shooting match off of a 06 Z06 for $1700 bucks. Under the C6 parts for sale section.

tyoneal
09-20-2006, 08:42 PM
Yes.. although this thread is a bit confusing.. at first you're talking about C6 brakes but then you show a picture of C6-Z06 brakes.

Both are great brake options but they are nothing alike. I'm a big fan of standard c5/c6 brakes and if they're good enough for a $50k sports car then they are good enough for most cars on here.

The new Z06 brakes are extra nice and a great deal for what you get. I think most people go aftermarket because it's easy. You order a kit and it comes with all the brackets you need to install them. Not so with trying to make some OEM brakes work on your XYZ car..

Oh, and they look sweet :)

I also agree with Yody that drilled rotors are not the best choice for the track. However if they are "drilled" right then the issues are minor. I drove the %$%# out my 2000 SS at the track and it had drilled Wilwood discs. Never had an issue, but you are more likely to have an issue with drilled rotors over solids. They do look sweet though and there's nothing wrong with that. lol

People want huge exotic brakes because it's what they want and what they can afford. Same reason people buy HRE wheels, fancy seats or billet hood hinges.

Steve:

Sorry for the confusion about the picture. It's been a while and I can't remember why I used it. (I hate it when that happens!!)

As far as I know, the C6 brakes can/do use a 14 inch rotor in front, correct, or is that a Z06 option only??

Do you know if you can use two piece rotors with the calipers?

Thanks for all yoour help. Slowly, all the decision are being ironed out.

tyoneal

tom0000
03-15-2007, 02:19 AM
1) To convert a 68 camaro to C5 disks are there special spindles for the front or will the stock disk ones work?

2) I have drums in the back. What equipment do I need to convert it to C5 disks also?

The motor has great vacume (obviously I have no horsepower) so I put a power brake booster on already. It was a huge improvement in stopping ability. I am now interested in going to a larger rim. I only want to spend about 1500 for the brake setup.