View Full Version : TT headers

05-28-2006, 04:28 PM
Is it worth the extra effort to build equal length turbo headers for a street motor? If so what's a good rule of thumb for determining the length?


05-28-2006, 07:36 PM
are you running a 23 degree headed small block or ls1? or?

05-28-2006, 09:39 PM
ASM injected 454. GM ovalports. Hope to upgrade to 540 with BIG heads after I finish the rest of the car.


05-29-2006, 02:01 AM
i would not worry about it to much you wont see any huge gains with the set of equal lengths with the twins on a big block you going to have more power than you can handle. what material are you going to make the headers out of?

syborg tt
05-29-2006, 09:24 AM
Nope from everything i've read and studies you will not need equal length headers.

05-29-2006, 10:44 AM
I'm using 316L. 3/8 flanges, 2" schedule 10 for the tube and bends. It's heavy stuff but I can walk next door to where I work and get the bends for around $5 each. It welds, smoothes, and polishes easy. The ID may be a little large at 2.15" but my next step down is 1.75" ID which I think is a little small for the 540 when that happens.


06-09-2006, 11:10 AM
Pick a tube that has an I.D just as large as the port itself. The 2" you are going to use is fine.

Equal length on a turbo motor means nothing under power

06-12-2006, 04:34 PM
Thanks for the info guys. I'm going on a business trip for about a week and a half. When I get back I plan on building the headers. I try to take advice given to me, but I started mocking it up and it looks like I have room for equal length. The way I'm placing the turbos, unequal length looks to easy. So for no other reason than appearance I'm going to attempt equal length. I'll post some pics when, and if I get them done.


07-23-2006, 11:16 AM
45 hours of evenings and weekends in and I'm almost part way done. The drivers side took ten hours to mock up. The passenger side took five. The rest has been sanding the welds and tubes up to 320 grit with a DA, electropolishing in a five gallon bucket in the driveway, and finally buffing. I still have to weld the pieces together and sand/polish the welds. Then I get to do the driver's side. If anyone knows any tricks to get this done faster, let me know.

pics here:

07-23-2006, 05:25 PM
Very, very nice work. That stands true of all the projects on your page.

Really like the quad turbo setup on the bucket... that has to get some attention. :thumbsup:

Looks like the tops of the snails are going to poke out of the hood a little bit... are they? If so... COOL!

07-23-2006, 07:14 PM
Thanks!! The hood is pretty much going to bisect the turbos. I'm probably going to cast some spacers to raise the plenum up a bit too. The Quad Turbo T isn't running yet. I stopped work on it when the Chevelle's 327 let go. She's my first car, I had to get her back on the road. I'll get back to the T when I'm done on the Chevelle. The T does stop traffic when it's out in the driveway.


07-31-2006, 07:54 PM
I must say super work yopu got going on there. But got a question for you.
Most of the turbo set up's I have seen, indivusual pipes comes to a flange rather then single pipe as in your headers. Is that ok?
I'm learning the turbo as much as I can. that is why the question.

08-01-2006, 05:49 AM
Man that is some incredible fabricating. Love it. Where did you get info for electropolishing? I was curious as to what the process is. Guess I'll have to Google!!

08-01-2006, 07:38 AM
Wow, that's awesome stuff. :bow:

08-01-2006, 08:31 AM
I like that roadster. What is it exactly? for sale?

08-01-2006, 11:16 AM
The turbos are going to mount, with a short reducer and flange, right on the end if the headers. They'll be going through the hood.

I'm not recommending anyone try this. The acid is a couple tubs of sulfamic acid tile cleaner in five gallons of water. I made an electrode basket with 7 gas welding rods I had bought in a pinch from tractor supply. They don't work well for tig so I sacrificed them to this. The electrodes ran down the sides of the bucket and across the bottom. They were welded in the center. Don't store them in the acid. On the sixth day they were gone. I use a battery charger plugged into a powerstat transformer. Electrodes negative, work positive. I adjust the powerstat to limit the current to the 50 amp max of my charger. The voltage required depends on the surface area of the part and the concentration of the solution. It won't remove grinding or rough sanding inperfections, so the part needs to be ready for buffing before you do this. It just saves a lot of time buffing.

The roadster is what almost everyone else uses for their first hot rod. It's a 23 Model T Roadster. Or a t-bucket. The $250 fiberglass body was all I could afford at the time. I started it six years ago and would stop when I convinced myself didn't have the tools I needed to keep working. I started it with a Handler 135 and a jigsaw. I now have way more money in tools than it. It's not for sale, but everything has a price.

Thanks guys,

10-08-2006, 05:24 PM
ka67 i distinctly remember that name from hotrodders, werent you building a kick azz quad turbo / big block t-bucket a couple of years back?? i remember you, me and turbo-s10 trying to convince everybody that turbos were the way to go... any way sorry for hijacking the thread, just recognized the name..

syborg tt
10-08-2006, 08:37 PM
i remember you, me and turbo-s10 trying ..

sorry turbo s10 - tell me more maybe a PM

10-08-2006, 08:43 PM
Yes, I am he. The T's not done. I blew up the Chevelle and had to work on her. As usual, I got carried away and made another big project. I'll get back to it soon, and finish it one of these years.